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Saturday, January 11, 2025

Somni (West Hollywood, CA) [2]

Somni Restaurant
9045 Nemo St, West Hollywood, CA 90069
www.somnirestaurant.com
Sat 01/11/2025, 07:30p-11:00p




Somni Exterior

Back in July 2018, I enjoyed a stellar dinner at Somni, a "secret" tasting counter tucked away in the back of José Andrés' The Bazaar at the SLS Hotel. The meal featured the avant garde Spanish cooking of Chef Aitor Lozano Zabala, and was unlike anything that I'd ever experienced before in Los Angeles. I was not alone in my praise, as Michelin deemed the place worthy of two stars upon the guide's June 2019 return to the LA dining scene, while the Forbes Travel Guide awarded its top rating of five stars the following February. Unfortunately, Somni shut down temporarily due to the pandemic, and then permanently in August 2020 due to disagreements with hotel management.

Thus, Zabala's final day at ThinkFoodGroup was October 1st that year, and following his departure, he spent his time performing R&D, doing private events, and planning Somni v2.0, this time without Andrés by his side. The second iteration Somni was in work by 2022, and after blowing past a planned summer 2023 debut, the Chef's "dream" restaurant officially opened on November 26th last year, with reservations being snapped up surprisingly briskly. Joining Zabala in leading the charge here are Chef de Cuisine Ismael Parra (Angler, Somni, Church & State, The Bazaar, Fig & Olive) and GM Daniel Gorlas (Somni, Twelve, Per Se).

Somni Entry
Here we see Somni's entry area, immediately beyond the door. The six-seat private dining room is located to the left.

Somni Patio
After checking in, we were escorted to an outdoor lounge/patio, where we enjoyed our first few "snack" courses.

Somni Hot Towel
Oshibori-style hot towels were quick to arrive once we were seated.

Mandarin splash
1: Mandarin splash
Functioning as a sort of apéritif was a refreshingly citrusy, somewhat creamy concoction with a trace of effervescence thanks to its use of tonic water.

Fried almond
2: Fried almond
Next came a bite that was an homage to a similar dish served at Somni v1.0: a dainty, ultra-thin almond shell hiding a filling of earthy-sweet lemon pith and almond cream.

Monstera deliciosa (Dip)
Monstera deliciosa
3: Monstera deliciosa
The name of this next morsel was a reference to the Swiss cheese plant, which is apparently the Chef's favorite. He thus formed a potato chip in the shape of a leaf, then filled it with a pleasingly briny anchovy cream, and matched it, fittingly, with a velvety Swiss cheese dip that worked to soften the flavors at play. It was an effective pairing, but my quibble was that the chip was a tad oily.

2016 Bérèche et Fils Le Cran, Brut
To pair with our canapés, we ordered a bottle of the 2016 Bérèche et Fils Le Cran, Brut [$290], a 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay disgorged in July 2023. The Champagne boasted an invigorating nose rife with concentrated orchard fruits, while its palate displayed plenty more of those juicy apple-y notes alongside a plethora of nutty, oxidative nuances. As the sparkler was chilled further, its fruity aromas diminished; meanwhile, flavors were markedly richer, showing more pome fruit and almond. Interestingly, the bubbly then entered a savory, vegetal phase as far as the bouquet was concerned, and flavors veered further toward the nutty, oxidative side of the spectrum. A lovely start to the evening's wines.

Mayan chip
4: Mayan chip
Here was Somni's take on popcorn, comprising fried amaranth leaves, fried amaranth seeds, coconut powder, and tamarind paste. Think uncommonly fragile to the touch, with a commixture of sweet, savory, and tart flavors that lingered long.

Parmesan feather
5: Parmesan feather
Last up was my favorite of the snacks: an amalgamation of both a Parm crisp and a Parm cream. I loved the bite's overtly gratifyingly cheesiness right up front, joined by a familiar hit of saltiness that persisted on the palate, softened just a smidge by a center of coffee and lemon. Great textures, too.

Somni Dining Room
After almost exactly 30 minutes, we were led into the dining room proper, replete with a new bull's head from Okuda San Miguel and a 14-seater (split 8/6) chef's counter. Somni occupies a building that previously held clothing retailer Urban Zen, and before that, an event space by the name of Eve on Nemo. As you can see, the space has been completely transformed, and now sports a tranquil, comforting aesthetic rendered in shades of ecru, courtesy of the team at the Barcelona-based firm Capella Garcia (they also did the original Somni, and have worked extensively with Andrés). Pictured above is my view at the fourth seat from the left.

Tonight's menu was priced at a pre-paid $495 per person, not inclusive of tax, service, or beverages (though it does include valet). That's quite a bump up from my last Somni meal, which had a base price of just $235 a head. If you're feeling spendy, the Private Cellar Experience is $995pp (for up to six guests), though this includes the premium wine pairing. And speaking of wine pairings, there's the Arrels at $225 and the higher-end Calafia at $415, as well as a non-alcoholic pairing for $150. Of course, you can also order from Somni's Spain- and California-leaning wine list, managed by Wine Director Caroline Costarella (Lazy Bear, La Tour, Rose's Luxury, Himitsu). Or, if you prefer, corkage is $150 per bottle ($300 per magnum), limit two.

Somni Place Setting
The place setting: a charger plate with a rather starchy Somni-branded napkin.

Beets & yogurt
6: Beets & yogurt
As regular readers may know, beets are often by bane, but here they made for a clever amuse bouche, one that effectively countered the earthy sweetness of a beet meringue with the sting of horseradish yogurt.

Sardine tart
7: Sardine tart
Salt- and sugar-cured Japanese iwashi showed off a delectably sweet salinity that was tempered both by a tomato sofrito and the crunch of that fish-shaped cracker. I was impressed by both the potency and restraint demonstrated by the sardine, not to mention its texture.

Rice tap & iberico
8: Rice tap & iberico
Here, wonderfully salty, crunchy rice taps played foil to lush, fatty drapes of lardo, with roasted garlic moderating the interaction. I could've easily popped a few more of these guys. Yum.

2010 Arnaud Ente Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Referts
With the Champ dispensed with, we opened up a bottle of 2010 Arnaud Ente Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Referts that I had with me. Initial whiffs brought heady, intense yellow fruit intertwined with grass and oak. Taking a sip, I found the Burgundy seamlessly-integrated, its bright notes of citrus and mineral joined by tropical fruit in the background. With time, the bouquet developed a distinctly popcorn-like character, but with plenty more of that grassy, floral orchard fruit, while the palate became more obviously lemony and saline, and even silkier across the tongue. Overall, a taut, elegant, expressive wine, and one that I'm very glad that I got to try--an absolute delight.

Truffle sandwich
9: Truffle sandwich
The intoxicating musk of Spanish black truffle and truffle cream was supported by both a sweet underpinning and the punch of Cantabrian anchovies. Excellent thin, crunchy, shattery textures here, too.

Dashi & caviar
10: Dashi & caviar
A 24-hour dashi was somehow formed into a fish-shaped meringue, topped with nori powder, smoked butter, and a healthy dollop of golden ossetra caviar, then finished with lemon, chives, and rosemary powder. This was a favorite of mine for sure, as I reveled in the perfect marriage of that saline roe with the various creamy, fragrant elements in the dish, all while the super-airy meringue moderated the interaction.

Somni Kitchen Peek
I consider the left-most seats at the tasting counter the best in the house, as they afford diners a peek into the hustle and bustle of the kitchen.

Mejillones escabeche (Lid)
Mejillones escabeche
11: Mejillones escabeche
A play on preserved mussels presented a bevy of tangy, savory notes, with a growing saline component. What I believe were piperade and leek helped even out the flavors happening, and finishing touches were provided by a chicken "escabeche" and mussel air (a dashi-like foam made from the shells).

Somni Lineup
Dishes are served simultaneously at Somni, a flourish that requires a lineup of the staff ahead of each course.

Gazpacho 'blanco'
12: Gazpacho "blanco"
A mash-up of ajoblanco and gazpacho managed to be a surprise standout. I just loved how the smokiness of eel played against the bright, tangy veggies, the whole shebang brightened up by a splash of tableside tomato essence. I'll also note that this was a fantastic pairing with the Ente above, as it tended to emphasis the tropical nature of the wine.

Shiso tartare tempura
13: Shiso tartare tempura
Crowned with borage flowers, a tenderloin tartare juxtaposed well with the brazenly "fried savor" of a tempura'd shiso leaf, making for a stark contrast in both taste and texture.

'Ravioli' (Bread)
'Ravioli'
14: "Ravioli"
No, that's not ube toast. Rather, what we had was blue corn bread, one that proudly conveyed the essence of the maize, and actually reminded me a bit of a tamal. It served as a fitting counterpoint to the "pasta," which was an egg yolk parcel stuffed with huitlacoche, set atop huitlacoche cream, Dungeness crab, smoked trout (I think), and a smattering of egg yolk cream. I especially appreciated how the sweet, homey taste of the corn interacted with the briny, earthy flavors of the "raviolo."

2004 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Único Ribera del Duero
Last to drink was the 2004 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Único Ribera del Duero, which was contributed by one of my dining companions. The nose here was meaty and mineral-driven, yet thoroughly imbued with red fruit. On the palate, I found the wine soft and silky, with more of those savory, meaty, leathery notes commingled with tart berries. As the night progressed, aromas became deeper and headier, while taste-wise, things got both more tannic and more laden with dark, inky fruit and cedar-y spice. All in all, a superb effort with tons of potency, but also enough finesse to never overwhelm the food. I'd be curious to see how this evolves over the next decade, to witness how more of those tertiary elements come to the fore.

Spanish turbot
15: Spanish turbot
Five-day dry-aged turbot loin was steamed then grilled, giving it a delightfully firm, "rare" mouthfeel. The fish was finished with a zippy turbot infusion sauce and capped with a sesame leaf, and somehow, we even tasted what seemed like ramen seasoning in there.

Arroz Caldoso (Lid)
Arroz Caldoso
16: Arroz Caldoso
In this riff on the Spanish staple of brothy rice, we had a custard base made from the heads of Japanese amaebi, then a layer of rice cooked with shrimp broth and truffle, and finally toppings of sweet shrimp and Spanish truffle. As you might expect, flavors were unapologetically condensed, with boatloads of brine and umami all over the place, softened just a smidge by the rice itself. Super cozy and comforting.

Oxtail bun with curry
Oxtail bun with curry
17: Oxtail bun with curry
This mántou-looking bun managed to be another surprise favorite thanks to its marvelously fluffy, "break-apart" consistency and mouthwatering filling of steamed oxtail. The bread was delicious alone, but was even better with a dip into the sweet-nutty curry sauce or a dab of that peanut-black garlic smear.

Txuleta (Vegetable Bouquet)
Txuleta
18: Txuleta
Our final savory course brought out a ruby-hued cut of bone-in vaca vieja ribeye, dry-aged for 30 days. The beef showcased noticeably more salt, umami, and depth than most, along with a somewhat different texture. Given the steak's heft, accoutrements of piquillo pepper and a salad bouquet were much appreciated.

'Cow and her milk'
19: "Cow and her milk"
Next came the evening's cheese course, which comprised Brillat-Savarin, apple, vanilla, hazelnut, and a cow-shaped cookie; we were instructed to break apart said cookie and mix everything together. The end result was fantastic, one of the best composed cheese courses I've ever had in fact. I loved the dish's plethora of salty, funky, fruity flavors, with the lusciousness of the triple cream setting the stage for it all. I was even tasting Danish butter cookies in there.

Piña colada
20: Piña colada
Dessert proper consisted of a reimagined piña colada, one that captured the tangy, sweet, tropical character of the classic cocktail, perked up by a touch of herbaceousness.

Caffè Americano
To pair with our petits fours: a complimentary cup of caffè americano.

Sweet little things
21: Sweet little things
When the final sweet treats began coming out, I asked Zabala what the proper Spanish word for "mignardises" is. He replied that, during his El Bulli days, the term "more things" was used (as suggested by a visiting American chef), and thus we have a variation of that nomenclature here at Somni.

Chocolate Donut
First up among our final bites was a caramel-chocolate doughnut with sprinkles, one that was almost liquid-y in the center and broke apart instantly upon mastication. Think classic chocolate donut flavors, with the sugary sprinkles making themselves known on the finish.

Yuzu Custard
Here we experienced the tart, citrusy one-two punch of yuzu custard and yuzu cream.

Hazelnut Chocolate Waffle
Hazelnut-chocolate cone waffles sprinkled with Maldon had a pleasingly sweet-salty thing going on.

Vanilla Madeleine
White chocolate-coated vanilla madeleines were spot-on texturally, and a joy to eat.

Mixed Berries
Blackberries and Harry's Berries strawberries were cooked down, them mixed with cola syrup and vanilla syrup, respectively, then dehydrated for six hours. The process gave the fruit a floral, concentrated, "seedy" character, which contrasted with the far lighter nature of the gummies.

Somni Menu Cover Somni Menu Introduction Somni Menu Staff Listing Somni Menu Somni Menu Back Cover
We were given a copy of the menu at the end of the night, and there are a few important points to note about it. First, the cover is made from a thin sheet of maple, the same material that the counters were fashioned out of. Second, the booklet was individually numbered, so now I know that I'm guest #533 (I wonder who received #1?). Finally, Chef Zabala had the entire team (at least the people that were present) sign the menu, which was a nice touch and certainly speaks to the teamwork required to run this place. Click for larger versions.

Somni Tote Bag
On the way out, all of us were handed a nifty Somni-designed canvas tote bag.

Hats off to Aitor Zabala and his crew for delivering an outstanding dining experience tonight. Somni 2.0 feels like a thoughtful evolution of the original restaurant, one that leans slightly more into Somni's Angeleno environs, while still keeping a firm grip on the Chef's Basque-Catalan heritage. The food seems a bit more personal, a bit more introspective, but every bit as creative and whimsical. At the same time, service was top-notch, some of the best I've encountered in the Southland, and in fact, I could even envision this place as our first Michelin three-star somewhere down the line. Overall, a huge addition to LA's dining scene.