Test Kitchen (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

Test Kitchen
9575 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90035
310.277.0133
www.testkitchenla.com
Wed 08/25/2010, 08:00p-10:20p



Reservations to Test Kitchen are arguably some of the most sought after in the City. As the first two guest chefs, Jordan Kahn and Ricardo Zarate wowed diners with previews of their upcoming restaurants: Red Medicine and Anticucho. Now, following in their footsteps is TK's first "mystery chef," Walter Manzke, who we last saw at Downtown's seminal French bistro Church & State. Manzke has yet to announce a concept, or even a name, for his first restaurant, making us all the more curious about what exactly he was going to be churning out here.

For the uninitiated, Test Kitchen, housed at the site of the recently-departed Spark Woodfire Grill, is the brainchild of restaurateur Bill Chait (one of the original owners of Spark) and wife Elizabeth, as well as Boyz Night Out co-founder Brian Saltsburg. Currently scheduled to run for about a month or so, Test Kitchen aims to serve as a laboratory where chefs can test out dishes for their upcoming restaurants. Future chefs include Michael Voltaggio (unannounced), Neal Fraser, John Sedlar, and maybe even the lovable team behind Starry Kitchen.

Fellow foodist types present this evening included: Abby of Pleasure Palate, Darin of Darin Dines, Holly of The Michelin Project, Ryan of Epicuryan, and kevinEats reader Vince (who I ran into in the bathroom at Hatchi).


The fixed menu, priced at $52, is a bit of a step up from previous nights, but what was more interesting was the addition of a "tapas" menu, featuring small plates meant for sharing. Cocktails, as before, were all $12. Click for larger versions.


Julian Cox and Joel Black had crafted up three cocktails to go along with Manzke's menu, so naturally, we had to try one of each. First up was The Big Tuna (Bonito-infused Bourbon, basil, tarragon, bitters), which was, in a word, disconcerting, demonstrating an ocean-y, salty character that augmented the natural smokiness of the Bourbon, all while the basil and tarragon added strong herbaceous notes to the mix. Much more successful was the Spicy Bitch (Vodka, lime, strawberry, jalapeno, white peach puree), which showed off a great interplay between the sugary strawberry and vodka, replete with a fantastic lingering heat on the finish. Mama's Boy (Rum, cherry, cherry liqueur, lemon, Thai coconut foam) wasn't bad either, with the cherry highlighting the essence of the rum nicely, all leading to a great bit of tanginess on the close.

We started with a round of the tapas to share:


Corn Beignets [$6.00] | Parmesan, basil aioli
We began with some small corn fritters. I was afraid that they'd be overly sugary, but the beignets were surprisingly restrained, showing off the flavor of corn without going overboard. The basil, meanwhile, added a great, tempering zest to the dish.


Local Calamari [$8.00] | grilled and fried, backyard arugula, black aioli
Squid was presented two ways. The fried version was tasty and simple, a nice contrast to the grilled version, which I absolutely adored. The grilled had a fantastic, fresh crunch to it and managed to really show off the inherent sweet-brine of the cephalopod, kicked up a notch by the squid ink aioli. Very good.


Bread & Butter [$8.00] | Vermont butter with sea salt, foie gras butter lavender honey
Bread alone was surprisingly tasty, though obviously, we were all here for the foie gras butter. It didn't disappoint, showing off a delectable sweetness backed by the lingering relish of foie gras. I wanted more!


Tomato Bread [$10.00] | sea urchin, Nicole olive oil
Here, I was expecting something akin to the traditional pan con tomate, but what we received was much more interesting. The interaction between the sugariness of the tomato and sweetness of the uni was genius, a perfect amalgam of complementary flavors, all with the overarching zing of olive oil.


Santa Barbara Spot Prawn [$11.00] | grilled and fried
Our final prelude was spot prawn two ways. The grilled presentation's lemon-y, garlicky, buttery notes deftly complemented the natural flavor of the shrimp, and I also appreciated the decapods' crisp, supple consistency. However, I enjoyed the crunchy, profoundly savory fried heads even more--I'd put these up against sushi bar sweet shrimp any day!


1: Hamachi | Avocado, Green Apple, Yuzu, Jalapeno
Our meal proper began with a hamachi tartar. The yellowtail, taken alone, wouldn't seem out of place at a sushi bar, showing of a clean, slightly unctuous relish with a firm, yet supple texture. To this, the avocado added a palpable weight that heightened the fish's inherent character, all while the Granny Smith apple provided touches of crisp, juicy sweetness. The close, meanwhile, was all about the jalapeno, which added great pricks of heat to a long, lingering finish of briny savor. An almost ceviche-like dish, with a great interaction of floral, creamy, and tart flavors.


2: Thai Curry-Carrot Soup | Maine Lobster, Coconut Tapioca
This gorgeously aromatic broth succinctly conveyed the quintessence of a Thai-style tom kha soup, demonstrating a fantastic combination of sweet, savory, spicy, smoky, and even nutty flavors. I appreciated how the natural sweetness of lobster was preserved, and highlighted by the coconut and carrot, all while the lemongrass and galangal added balancing touches of citrus-y sapor to the fold. I was afraid that the carrot would be overly sweet, dominating the lobster, but it was deftly utilized here, contributing its vegetal-saccharine taste, but without being overwhelming. Loved the bits of peanuts, too, as well as the textural element of the tapioca pearls.


3: Loup de Mer | Sungold Tomatoes, Mole Verde
Loup de Mer (literally "wolf of the sea") refers to Mediterranean sea bass, also known as branzino. Here, Manzke did a great job with the fish, presenting a tender, succulent example brimming with ocean-y savor. I also loved the bass' crisp, salty skin, and how the tomatoes added a tinge of juicy sweetness to the dish, while the sunflower seeds contributed a touch of nuttiness. The best part, though, was the mole verde, with its beautifully bright, piquant flavors that reminded me of a salsa verde! Absolutely lovely.


4: Beef Tenderloin | Chanterelle Mushrooms, Katsuo Bushi Broth
Beef, meanwhile, was presented in great fashion as well. I had no complaints about the meat itself, which was suitably tender, with an immensely satisfying beefiness to it. However, the key here really was that katsuobushi-mushroom dressing, which added an incredible depth of flavor to the meat, imbuing it with a profound, umami-tinged savor. I also loved the poached egg, which lent a perfect creaminess to the dish that melded flawlessly with the bonito broth. I enjoyed the use of spicy-salty yuzukosho in moderating the weight of the beef, too! My favorite course of the night.


5: Crème Brulee | Strawberry
Manzke's reimagined crème brulee was almost parfait-like in nature, a superb amalgamation of strawberry, strawberry sorbet, streusel, and custard. I really appreciated the interplay between the brazen sugariness of the strawberry and the relative levity of the caramelized cream. My favorite part, though, was the moderating effect and perfect crunch provided by the streusel crumbles.

Manzke impressed, no doubt. I actually liked every dish, which is a pretty commendable achievement. Tastes and textures just worked, and I loved the how the Chef was able to meld his classical French training with influences from around the world, Asia in particular. The meal left me wanting more, and I can't wait for his new place to open. Well done!