Taco Asylum (Costa Mesa, CA)

Taco Asylum
2937 Bristol St, Costa Mesa, CA 92626
714.922.6010
www.tacoasylum.com
Wed 03/02/2011, 06:50p-09:00p




Given the near-instant success that Chef Greg Daniels has achieved at his gastropub Haven in Orange, I wasn't surprised to hear that he and his partners--Wil Dee and Ace Patel--wanted to expand. They were eventually approached with an offer to take over a space at The Camp in Costa Mesa, and the trio developed Taco Asylum as a result. The eatery specializes in non-traditional tacos, drawing from an array of culinary traditions from across the globe. It's an interesting concept, and an invitation to a special tasting event organized by Marian the Foodie gave me the perfect opportunity to try the Asylum out.




Nine tacos are currently available at Taco Asylum, though Daniels may consider adding rotating specials in the future. They're priced at $5 or $6 each, while a flight of eight mini-tacos can be had for $18 (if you're wondering, only eight are included since that's what their largest tray holds). Of course, in true kevinEats fashion, I ate all nine, in their full-size form factors no less (not an easy feat mind you). Also, I'll note that though Chef Daniels is Taco Asylum's Executive Chef, day-to-day operations here are largely handled by Restaurant Manager Cody Storts.

As for the libations, a sextet of draught beers is offered, though really the focus is on the commendable selection of canned brews (a rarity in restaurants these days), curated by Dee. In addition, teetotalers may choose from a wide variety of interesting sodas. Click for larger versions.


Grilled Octopus [$5.00] | Kalamata Olives - Oregano - Feta - Tomatoes
First up to bat in a seemingly Mediterranean-inspired preparation, grilled octopus arrived rather tender, and showed off a decent about of ocean-y savor as well. The feta, meanwhile, served as a surprisingly effective complement to the cephalopod, and I enjoyed the piquancy of the kalamatas as well. I didn't taste too much from the tomato, but I did appreciate the taco's enveloping notes of oregano.


Pork Belly [$5.00] | Carrots - Daikon - Onions - Cilantro
Pork belly was expectedly luscious, heavy, and dripping with oil. Given the gravity of the meat, the taco's vegetable accoutrements were absolutely key. The carrot and daikon pickles gave the taco a satisfying crunch (I wanted more), and provided a much needed tartness, while the bright flavors of cilantro contributed a certain levity to things. You could almost imagine this as a riff on the classic bánh mì.


Short Rib [$5.00] | Pickled Red Onion - Salsa Verde - Cotija Cheese - Cilantro
Next up was a Mexican-style presentation of braised beef short rib (think barbacoa). I found the meat tender, juicy, and quite enjoyable, a great pair with the weight of the cotija cheese. At the same time, the tangy red onions did a great job in balancing the dish, as did the cilantro, but I wanted more from the salsa verde.


Curried Paneer [$5.00] | Raita - Tomato Chutney
Not surprisingly, the Indian-inspired Curried Paneer taco came wrapped in naan flatbread. The dish incorporates a recipe from partner Ace Patel's mother, and indeed, the curry did an admirable job in conveying the essence of Indian cookery. It was an apt match to the cubes of paneer, and I appreciated how the raita served to temper the spice of the taco. The only thing I wasn't sure of was the tomato chutney, which I found a bit too sweet.




Wild Mushroom [$5.00] | Chickpea Purée - Parsley Salad - Fried Chickpeas
Here we have the Wild Mushroom, my favorite taco of the nonet. The earthy character and umami-tinged goodness of the 'shrooms were deftly presented in the dish, and I really enjoyed the countervailing flavors provided by the chickpea purée and parsley. My favorite part of the taco, however, was the use of fried garbanzos, which added a simply fantastic crunchiness to things.


Lamb [$6.00] | Olive Tapenade - Ratatouille - Mâché
Lamb was richly-flavored and suitably tender in consistency, and showed off a decidedly Provençal twist. The olive-y tang of the tapenade was well-placed, as was the ratatouille, but I really couldn't taste much from the mâche unfortunately.


Duck [$6.00] | Camembert - Dijon Crème Fraîche - Purple Fingerling Chips
Duck was rather tasty, with the meat showing off its characteristic savoriness, while the utter lusciousness of the Camembert elevated the taco even further. Sadly, I didn't get to really enjoy the Dijon, but I loved the fingerling bits, which gave the dish an utterly fantastic crispiness as well as a touch of salt.


Corazon [$5.00] | Confit Beef Heart - Pickled Turnips - Harissa
Corazon was delightful, with a subtly firm texture and a delectably hearty savor (see what I did there?). The beef went swimmingly with the restrained heat of the harissa, while the sour pickles served to temper the dish.


Ghost Chili Pork [$5.00] | Braised - Chile Threads - Pork Cracklins
I ended my taco gauntlet with the Ghost Chili Pork. As expected, the meat was supple in body, with a definite porcine sapor. The chile threads, meanwhile, added a considerable amount of the heat to the taco. The amount of spice wasn't overwhelming, but it was definitely there, and lingered for several minutes afterward. My favorite part of the taco was actually the cracklins, which gave the dish a fantastic textural element.

There are a couple nits to work out on a few of the dishes, but overall, the tacos are unique, effective, and tasty. I just hope that the menu eventually sees some rotation. This is a fun concept that Daniels and company have come up with, and don't be surprised to see more Taco Asylums popping up in the future. In the meantime though, look out for a second branch of Haven Gastropub (replete with on-site brewing) in Old Town Pasadena, to be situated in the spot of the former Brix 42.