Orsa & Winston (Los Angeles, CA)

Orsa and Winston Restaurant
122 W 4th St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.687.0300
www.orsaandwinston.com
Fri 10/25/2013, 09:00p-12:55a





If you're like me, you've kept an eye on Josef Centeno over the past few years. The Chef first made a name for himself around these parts when he was doing his multi-course tastings at Opus back in '06. He left there in January 2008 though, and spent some time planning his own place, Volver, before taking over the kitchen at Lot 1 in Echo Park. The partnership ultimately ended up disastrously, and Centeno largely stayed out of the public eye until late 2009. That was when he joined forces with Michael Cardenas to open Lazy Ox Canteen, which was sort of the first step on his real return to LA dining. The accolades garnered there allowed the Chef to open Bäco Mercat in late 2011, and then Bar Amá a year later.

However, Baco and Ama are decidedly casual affairs, and all this time, Centeno was still yearning to get back into something a bit schmancier. The result of this latent desire manifested itself in the form of Orsa & Winston, the restaurant that he wanted to do post-Opus, but couldn't. Named after the Chef's two dogs, it's located right next door to Bar Amá, and features cooking inspired by the culinary traditions of both Japan and Italy. O&W debuted on September 24th via a special MasterCard promotion, and opened to the public shortly afterward. Centeno is joined here by Director of Operations Mike Hoagland, GM/Wine Director Sally Kim, Pastry Chef Isa Fabro, and Sous Chefs Joel Stovell and Susan Yoon.


Orsa & Winston is small, comprising roughly 1500sqft between both the dining room and the kitchen. The roughly 34-seat space was penned by Amaryllis Knight of ALTAI Studio and showcases a pretty subtle aesthetic, a fitting canvas for the food I guess.


The best seats in the house are, unsurprisingly, situated at the four-seater, Caesarstone-topped counter (reminiscent of the one in my own kitchen), which affords diners a view of the hustle and bustle of the gleaming, open kitchen.


As far as Orsa & Winston's menu goes, there are a lot of options here. Starting at the top, we opted for the roughly 25-course "Super-Omakase," priced at $195 per head and which is only available at the bar with prior reservation. There's also the standard nine-course Omakase at $95, a five-course tasting at $60, a family-style four-courser at $50, and if that wasn't enough, even a few limited à la carte selections as well. Now, for the tipple, Sally Kim's in charge of the beverage program, which includes a well-curated wine list and a smattering of beers and sakes. Corkage is set at $35, with a one bottle limit, a recent change from the $25/two bottle limit policy they had not too long ago. Click for larger versions.


We ended up purchasing a fun bottle from the list to start things off, the Mercat Cava Brut NV [$40]. This was an easy-drinking, though not particularly contemplative sparkler, full of lemon and stone fruit, yet balanced with a dry, yeasty character to it. A tasty way to kick things off.


1: fennel panna cotta with tonburi, wheat cracker
Serving as a sort of amuse bouche was a fennel panna cotta with potato-leek mousse, mountain caviar, and wheat cracker crumbles. Think creamy, herbal, and anise-laced flavors, leading to a muted sweetness, all set off by the countering crunch of the tonburi.


2: white anchovy with cubeb-honey, tonnato
Next was Centeno's delectable take on the tapas dish boquerones fritos, the anchovy's fishiness leading to a sweet, spicy, lingering midpalate, with the pickled yucca and pepper imparting a well-suited brightness to things. I could've used a whole plate of these.


3: kanpachi with shishito, satsuma, shiso
Amberjack arrived with a quartet of Japanese accompaniments, its brine transitioning to an enduring, tangy sweetness tempered by the slight heat from the togarashi.


4: breakfast in shell, semolina, pancetta, sherry cream
One of the favorites of the night was this homage to Alain Passard's legendary Arpège egg, which I found quite similar to Manresa's well-known version (recall, Centeno worked there as well). It was comprised of coddled egg, sherry vinegar, maple syrup, chive, and pancetta, with the creamy lushness of the egg gorgeously balanced by the tart and sweet notes present, while the lardons at the bottom added a wonderful hit of salt to the fray. Nice temperature contrast here, too.


5: milk-bread focaccia with butter, testa
Orsa & Winston's bread course was another standout. The bread itself ostensibly combines Japanese milk bread with focaccia from Baco Mercat, and was delicious on its own, a great blend of a crisp exterior and a silken center. The oregano butter that came with was super soft, and subtly herby, a fantastic accoutrement to the bread. Even better, though, were the slivers of pork testa with shiso and capers, which spent 12 hours in the oven. Herby, oily, slick, and unabashedly porcine, they formed an in-your-face blast of meaty goodness that complemented the bread in commendable fashion.


6: beef carpaccio with mushroom conserva, charred leek, sardo
A carpaccio of American beef brought together pickled mushrooms, black truffle, Sardo, and Champagne raisins. The meat itself was slick and slippery, with an olive oil-y weight to it that served as a counterpoint to the herby, pickle-y qualities of the dish, all while the cheese imparted a great bit of saltiness to the mix. However, I really would've appreciated a knife here, so that I could've more easily cut the beef.


7: castel franco with mango, pear, gorgonzola bottarga
Shreds of speckled Castelfranco paired well with Gorgonzola and mango, the delightfully bittersweet qualities of the radicchio working beautifully with the contrasting forces of sweet and salt present. Lovely crunch here, too.


Two Burgundies were BYOB'd tonight, the first of which was the 2011 Val de Mer Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir. I quite liked this one, its floral, grassy, slightly spicy qualities complemented by a mineral-y backbone and a certain roundness, which only increased with time in the glass.


8: matsutake with razor clam, dashi-beet emulsion garbanzo, chinese cedar
I'm a sucker for razor clams, so perhaps it's no surprise that this was probably my favorite course of the night. I loved the texture of the clams here, and their inherent salinity was faultlessly played against the smoky undercurrent present, with the beets imparting a certain brightness to the dish. Even better? The earthy, hefty garbanzos, which really grounded the dish.


9: cardoon with anchovy, shaved fresh porcini, black garlic
Cardoons were bright and crunchy, their slightly acerbic, vegetal savor working hand in hand along with the piquant tastes of the fermented garlic and anchovy combo, all while the porcini actually help moderate the dish. Very neat.


10: snap pea with burrata, meyer lemon, cucumber leaf
Another one of my favs was this presentation of sugar snap peas with burrata and meyer lemon marmalade. The vibrant, saccharine crunch of the peas was gorgeously conveyed here, really giving us a crystal clear picture of the veggie that was modulated by the lushness of the burrata, with the lemon contributing a sour accent piece to the course.


11: live scallop, spigarello, ham, shellfish béarnaise
Live scallop was presented in situ, served with roe, butter, and a truffle béarnaise. It was delicious, and one of the most luxurious preparations of the ingredient I've had, the butter and truffle really melding well together and adding a seldom seen layer of decadence to the bivalve. I loved the crispy breadcrumbs tossed on top as well, and I could've really used some more of that milk bread to sop up the remaining liquid!


12: abalone with burnt milk, pomelo, onion jus, nasturtium
Abalone came with an intriguing burnt milk panna cotta, resulting in a sweet, smoky, almost vanilla ice cream-like sapor to go along with the pleasantly chewy bits of gastropod, interjected by pops of tartness from the pommelo vesicles.


13: chicken liver mousse with thomcord jam, bread crisps
Chicken liver mousse arrived silky and smooth, imbued with its unmistakable, earthy musk. It was a fine presentation of the delicacy. However, the included thomcord jam verged on overly sugary, thus masking some of the liver's character.


14: spaghettini with uni butter, salmon roe, wasabi
Pasta made its first appearance with this excellent course of spaghetti, done up with white soy and salmon roe. The noodles themselves were properly al dente, with the incorporation of yuzu and ikura giving up a zesty, piquant blast that made the dish instantly Japanese-y. I wouldn't have minded a whole plate of the stuff.


15: sawara with puttanesca, caper, basil
Sawara is something I rarely get to enjoyed cooked, a shame, because here it was superb. The Spanish mackerel itself was deftly prepared, with a satisfying texture and its signature salinity intact, but the key was that sugo alla puttanesca, which contributed a classic tomato-based, caper-laced counterweight that finished out the fish beautifully.


16: satsuki rice with uni, geoduck, tangerine lace
Here, we had a risotto of sorts, but one made with Koshihikari from Uruguay I believe. Think starchy and heady, with the heft of the Pecorino balanced by the sweet, tangy nuances in the rice, while the manila clam and urchin providing the expected ocean-y flavors. I wanted a larger bowl!


The second Burg came in the form of a 2009 Domaine du Château de Chorey Beaune 1er Cru Les Cras Vieilles Vignes. This one seemed very tight at first, without much in terms of aroma and a smoky-tannic nature with very little fruit. It did get more pleasing to me in time, though, with the cherried qualities and minerality coming through more and more.


17: john dory with braised beans, salsa verde, yuzu kosho
The Dory was another highlight for me. The fish was cooked perfectly, with a fantastic bit of crust and a great depth of savor that was expertly paired with the citrus-y, herb-y notes present, while the beans added a great heft and texture to things.


18: squab with kuri squash, fennel jus, flowering fennel
Squab had a delightful char on it, which imparted a bitter savor that worked in harmony with the immensely satisfying slices of the bird. The use of red curry and fennel imparted further facets to the course, but the squash went overly saccharine, distracting me from the other great things going on here. I would've liked something more astringent, vegetal to go along.


19: honey-ham cap with tomato, sorrel
Ham cap was just brimming with porcine richness, a commingling of lean and fat that was squelched in part by the sugary honey and tart tomato jam. However, I really needed a bigger piece here, so that I could've better appreciated the textures and body of the meat.


20: agnolotti with lamb cheek, sardo, rye, mint lavender
Our final savory course of the night was also our most substantial: an Okinawan potato agnolotti stuffed with braised lamb cheek. The tender shards of meat showed off all the deep, dark flavors that you'd expect, but once again, I found the sweetness here a bit too strong. Satisfying in a straightforward manner.


21: pomegranate granita, meyer lemon
A pomegranate granité with lavender and meyer lemon served as a very smart intermezzo, its fruity, floral, minty qualities working as an effective palate cleanser after the heavier coursed that preceded it.


22: custard with grapefruit, coconut tapioca
Next, vanilla custard was joined by coconut tapioca, blood orange caramel, and a grapefruit granita, the vanilla and coconut forming a great combination that did a nice job playing off each other, with the caramel and grapefruit forming a sugary sweet base to the dessert. Lovely crunch here from the tuile, too.


23: blood orange pavlova, basil seeds
A blood orange pavlova was superb, the bittersweet, aromatic nuances from the citrus-basil interplay wonderfully tempered by the light crunch of that meringue.


24: pear strudel with honey cassis
My favorite of the desserts was the pear-ricotta strudel with honey, cassis, and brown butter streusel. The key here was how the initial sweet-n-spicy flavors transitioned to the clean, crisp essence of pear, with the savory crust and brown butter coming in toward the end.


25: hazelnut chocolate with butterscotch-rosemary
The requisite chocolate dessert brought us a hazelnut-chocolate cake topped with whipped crème fraîche, with butterscotch, rosemary, and a hazelnut toffee. Think your classic chocolate-hazelnut flavors here, but greatly enhanced by the butterscotch and toffee, with the rosemary adding a fantastic aromatic component that really tied everything together.


26: ninjabread
To close: fun "ninja-bread" men: a new school look, old school cookie taste.

I think we've all been keeping tabs on what Josef Centeno's been up to these past few years, and it was great to see the Chef finally back in the kitchen, cooking in a smaller format and in a style that better makes use of his classical training and fine dining background. Orsa & Winston's one of the most exciting debuts of the year, but the food here is somewhat difficult to classify succinctly. It does draw from both Italy and Japan as advertised, and has a certain quiet thoughtfulness to it that I can't quite put my finger on. The flavors were very intentional, yet fine-drawn, with a sort of ingredient-centric quality about the plates, and I'm not sure if I've had anything quite like it before. Service, meanwhile, was as on point as you'd expect, and I'd be curious about trying some of the other menu options as well, though at the same time, I'm thinking that perhaps the place should cut down on the number of ways to dine, which currently stands at five (Super Omakase, nine-course, five-course, four-course family-style, à la carte). One last thing: I'd also like to see more variation in the dishware used, as seeing the same plate over 20 courses does get a tad monotonous.

Goldie's (Los Angeles, CA)

Goldie's Restaurant
8422 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90048
323.677.2470
www.goldiesla.com
Thu 10/24/2013, 08:00p-10:45p



[NOTE: I do apologize for the substandard quality of the photos in this post. Apparently, someone at the restaurant had the bright idea that it'd make sense to illuminate our table with red lighting. Not only did this completely ruin the photos (I was completely flummoxed as to how to compensate for it--the best I could do was this sort of yellowish thing below), it really didn't do justice to the food either, which looked far less appetizing than it should have.]

One of the more notable debuts this year has been Goldie's, the latest project from the Eveleigh team of Nick Mathers, Nick Hatsatouris, and Lincoln Pilcher. Set in the former space of the longstanding Chado Tea Room, Goldie's opened in March and is named after a Sydney deli that Mathers frequented as a youngster. The Chef here is Thomas Lim, a fellow Aussie who's offering up his modern take on California cuisine, with a particular emphasis on the use of his wood- and coal-fired grill.

About the Chef: Chef Lim grew up in the Perth region of Western Australia, and got an early exposure to the restaurant biz from his uncle's Chinese place Choi's Inn in Northbridge. After finishing school, he landed a job at famed fish 'n' chips joint Cicerello's in Fremantle, but quickly left and enrolled at the Intercontinental Hotel School in Sydney at age 20. Upon graduating, Lim began working at Tetsuya's, one of the City's most acclaimed restaurants, but left in 2009 to start The Duxford, his "pirate dinner" series that, from what I gather, seems to have been something along the lines of a Wolvesmouth.

This led to a number of private cooking engagements, and eventually the co-head chef position at a new restaurant at the Flinders Hotel called Duke Bistro. Before starting at Duke, Lim traveled to Europe for culinary research purposes, eating his way across places like the Michelin-starred gastropub The Sportsman, the El Bulli-adjacent seafooder specialist Rafa's, Barcelona's preeminent bodega La Cova Fumada, the inimitable Bras, and everybody's favorite, Noma. Following, he and Mitchell Orr opened in late 2010 to considerable acclaim, and soon thereafter, Lim also found himself consulting on the menu at the nearby pub The Norfolk. He and Mathers had actually been friends for eight years, and Mathers was involved in Duke Bistro as well, so Lim was a natural choice when it came time find a chef for Goldie's.


Goldie's menu is laid out in familiar fashion, comprised of small (too small, according to some) plates, mostly meant for sharing. In addition, there are brunch and lunch options as well. Click for a larger version.


As far as the drinks are concerned, you'll definitely want to make room for the cocktails, the work here of Brittini Rae Peterson, whom you might remember from Ink, The Tar Pit, Fig & Olive, or Soho House. Beer's also a worthwhile option, and there also the small, but neat wine list, focused on organic and biodynamic bottles. Click for larger versions.


Michael Nemcik from Terroni happened to be in my dining party tonight, and if you know Michael, you'll know that you can always count on him to bring some good wines to the table. The first was the Bele Casel Asolo Prosecco Superiore, a fun, lightweight sparkler, not particularly complex, but tasty and easy-drinking. I found it dry yet creamy on the palate, but imbued with refreshing notes of pear, lemon, and apple. Note, though, that we didn't agree about the usage of the coupe-style glass here, which didn't do much for the bubbly's bouquet.


HOUSE CHARCUTERIE [$14.00] | Daily Selection
I'm a sucker for charcuterie when it's housemade, and tonight the restaurant had three varieties on offer. First was the country ham, a waxy, sticky, and unabashedly salty meat that went along swimmingly with the side of grilled bread. The coppa, meanwhile, was even better, with a certain slickness to it along with some wonderfully sharp, spicy notes. Last up was the testa, the fattiest, most substantial of the trio with its absolutely in-your-face porkiness that needed the balance imparted by the mustard and pickled red onion.


BEEF TARTARE [$15.00] | Boulder Valley Skirt, Crispy Garlic and Onions, Chili, Crostini
Now, the tartar was probably the most controversial course of the evening. I really liked it, with the soft, yet slightly chewy beef positively dripping with an almost seaweed-esque depth and umami-soaked richness, all evened out by an undercurrent of sweetness. For me, it was a refreshing take on a classic dish, but others in my party weren't so enthused with it, which was understandable given that the flavor profiles here weren't those that you'd expect from a traditional tartar.


BATTERY PARK [$14.00] | 100 Proof Rye, Punt e Mes, Maple, Peach Bitters, Peychaud Ice
The first cocktail of the night was the Battery Park, oft described as a take on the Manhattan and best known for its Peychaud's-tinted ice sphere. I liked it, finding it wonderfully boozy and classic, a deft blend of bitter, sweet, and acerbic nuances moderated by the ice.


FLUKE CRUDO [$14.00] | Beetroot, Orange
I was definitely not a fan of the plating and presentation here (very sloppy), but taste-wise, this was on point, the delicate slices of fluke beautifully augmented by the sweet, tangy, and unexpected combination of beet and orange.


PATE [$8.00] | Lemon Gelee, Soft Pretzel
The chicken liver, meanwhile, was a table favorite, and one of the best versions of the dish I've had. The pâté was pretty much perfect: smooth, lush, a flawless blend of earthy and sweet flavors masterfully counterbalanced by the piquant bits on top. Subtle, yet profound, with some great bread to boot.


Our second wine was the 2010 Stolpman Roussanne L'Avion, which I rather liked. Think floral and fruit-driven, yet crisp and refreshing, with a rousing acidity joined by a growing minerality and savory character, all underscored by the slightest boozy quality.


BRUSSELS SPROUTS [$12.00] | Crispy Fried, Panko, Jalapeno Hot Sauce
Brussels sprouts were pretty amazing, and, according to one of my dining companions, tasted of General Tso's chicken! I can definitely see where he was coming from, as the dish's slightly sweet, slightly spicy, immensely savor flavors, all over a delightful base of Brussels bitterness, really did recall flashes of the American Chinese cuisine staple.


GRILLED CUCUMBERS [$12.00] | Charred Green Garlic, Avocado, Celery, Sea Beans
This was another course that resulted in some conversation among us. The dish was complex, with lots of moving parts. The star of the show, the cucumber, had a lightness and crunch that was apropos, but was joined by an almost black bean-like depth and char astringency. To that, the sea beans added pricks of salt to the mix, while the avocado served to even out the dish with its lush, creamy character. I'm not sure if I liked this one or not; it definitely got me thinking though.


SIX DEGREES [$14.00] | Mezcal, Red Beet Basil Shrub, Sherry Vinegar, Ginger, Lemon
REDWOOD [$14.00] | Terroir Gin, Elderflower, Yuzu Bitters
Time for more cocktails. The Six Degrees was probably my favorite of the night, the smoky base of mezcal really working beautifully alongside the sugary beet, with the piquant zip of the sherry-ginger combo imparting a balancing, integrating thrust to the drink. The Redwood, meanwhile, tasted pretty much what I expected a redwood to taste like: herbal and pine-y, with a strong, boozy gin backbone and an intense aromatic component from the rosemary.


VEAL AND BACON MEATBALLS [$12.00] | Red Pepper Ketchup
Meatballs were delicious, showing off a mouthwatering savoriness to them offset by the tangy ketchup, not to mention a great char astringency and crunch. Interestingly, the balls came out slightly underdone, which resulted in a somewhat peculiar mouthfeel, but one that I really enjoyed.


ROAST YELLOW CORN [$12.00] | Corn Custard, Hibiscus, Lime
Next up, the corn made a strong showing for itself as well, its sweetness on display against the lime's subtle sourness. The most fascinating thing here, though, was the use of hibiscus, which lent an overarching floral quality to the dish that I found quite fetching.


TATER TOTS [$12.00] | Bone Marrow Gravy
You can't not order Tater Tots when you see them on a menu, so here we were. They really did hearken back to the elementary school cafeteria standby: crispy and salty and all that, with a deft counterpoint in the form of the kale while the gravy imparted an enveloping richness to the dish.


Moving to the reds now, we had here the 2008 Domaine Dupasquier Vin de Savoie Mondeuse. I'm not sure if I'd ever even had this varietal before, but I found it somewhat rustic in essence--tart, peppery, and tannic, with an earthy/meaty quality to it as well, offset by just a bit of fruit.


FRIED SQUID [$14.00] | Lemon Aioli, Aleppo
Fried squid was one of the stronger preparations I've had, with a fantastic bite to it that perfectly blended the cephalopod's soft, supple interior with a crisp, yet airy shell. The tangy aioli that came along formed a fitting pairing, but the peppery, spicy notes present were even better.


STEAMED PEI MUSSELS [$16.00] | Soft Leeks, Grilled Bread, Cider
Mussels were also very nice, the leeks and cider adding a certain verve to the bivalves that made them just that much different than the norm.


PORK RIBS [$16.00] | Orange and Honey Glaze
Ribs, meanwhile, were sticky and satisfying, with a sweet 'n' sour relish that paired effortlessly with the pork-y, char-tinged notes present. Nice texture on 'em too, which made the ribs good for gnawing.


GOLDEN GIRL [$14.00] | Spiced Tequila, Passion Fruit, Agave, Lime Meringue
The final cocktail we had was the Golden Girl, and it was pretty awesome. I found it almost creamy on the tongue, with a flavor profile that perfectly blended the creeping heat of the jalapeños with the sugary weight of the agave and passion fruit, the lime imparting a touch of levity to the fray.


GRILLED PORK BELLY [$14.00] | Little Neck Clams, Wild Greens, Pear
Moving now into some of the heavier courses, pork belly was tasty, albeit a touch dry at times, with the pear and greenery adding a great bit of lightness to the mix. I quite liked the additional saline and textural elements provided by the clams, too--a pleasant surprise.


MARY'S CHICKEN [$28.00] | Chanterelles, Roasted Leek, Jus Gras
I'm not sure who Mary is, but her chicken was very solid. The flavors were spot on, with the bird enhanced by the roasty, astringent qualities of the leek, while the mushrooms added an earthy, woody note to the dish. My only quibble: the chicken could've been a touch juicier in places.


DIVER SCALLOPS [$16.00] | Scallops Beurre Blanc, Seagrass
Finally, we had the scallops, which were on point in terms of texture, and conveyed their signature, oceany-savor well, matching with the buttery beurre blanc. However, you had to be careful with the seagrass, as it tended to steer the course toward overly saline at times.


Dessert, naturally, was a must. Click for a larger version.


MILK PANNACOTTA [$12.00] | Choc-Malt Fudge, Honey, Curry Crumble, Vanilla Ice Cream
Goldie's take on the ubiquitous panna cotta worked out well, really melding the lushness of the cream with some delightful bittersweet flavors and the subtly spicy nuances from the crumbles. Very tasty, and a smart reinterpretation of a traditional dessert.


CHOCOLATE, CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE [$12.00] | Mint Ice Cream, Chantilly Cream
Last up was a sort of ice cream sandwich, the herby, minty qualities of the ice cream working hand in hand with the deep, dark, chocolate-y richness of the cookie here. Yum.

Since opening, Goldie's has seemingly been a polarizing sort of place. I think the issue may stem from the fact that the restaurant bills itself as an approachable, neighborhood-y type of joint. However, the cooking here is much more ambitious than one would expect. Lim has a pretty unique culinary point of view, and imbues his food with unconventional touches and unexpected twists that definitely aren't for everybody. However, it is the type of cookery that I do appreciate, and I was quite intrigued by what I saw on the plates here. In fact, I'm actually really curious, excited even, to see where the Chef takes things.