Colonia Taco Lounge (La Puente, CA)

Colonia Taco Lounge
13030 E Valley Blvd, La Puente, CA 91746
626.363.4691
www.facebook.com/coloniatacolounge
Wed 01/29/2014, 07:50p-09:45p





Given the good experiences that I'd had recently at both Guisados and Bizarra Capital, it only made sense to check out Ricardo Diaz's newest creation, Colonia Taco Lounge. The restaurant bowed in August 2013, and features the Chef's famous guisados-style tacos along with craft beer, cocktails, and (occasional) live music.

Colonia, like Bizarra, is situated in a former location of El Siete Mares, a chain of Mexican seafood restaurants that Diaz's grandfather started decades ago, and which his father, uncle, and he himself grew up around. This latest venture is all about family in a way, since he partnered with his sister Stephanie Aguirre, who happens to run the well-regarded La Taquiza Fish Tacos up in Napa, as well as brother-in-law Patrick Aguirre, who was head baker at Bouchon for two years and also spent time at A.O.C. However, rumor has it that Patrick, at least, has left the venture.


Inside, the space has been freshened up from its days as a 7 Mares. The dining room is large, moody, almost befitting its "lounge" moniker with the bar tucked into a corner. Note that there's no waiter service here, so you order at the counter and your food is then brought out to you, Carl's Jr-style.


As for Colonia's menu, you'll find it scrawled on a chalkboard, much like it was at Diaz's former joint. Each day there are about a dozen-and-a-half tacos on offer, split between guisados (the long-cooked stuff) on the left and caseros ("homemade" made-to-order ones) on the right, as well as a couple sides, including the popular "Nachostadas." In terms of bebidas, think cocktails, fun sodas, some wine, and, of course, cerveza, mostly on tap.


Berries & Rye [$9.00] | whiskey, red wine, lemon bitters, blackberries
We leaned more toward the cocktails, the first of which was the Berries & Rye. I don't think I'd ever had whisky paired with wine before, but it worked out pretty well, the vinous essence of the tinto functioning as a complement to the booziness of the drink, all while the berries added just enough tartness.


Nachostadas [$6.00] | Aged chorizo, Cheese, 3 tostadas
First to the table were the Nachostadas, which were pretty much exactly what the portmanteau would suggest. They were delightfully crunchy and damn tasty though, with the meaty heft of the spicy sausage giving a great depth to the dish, tied together by the gooey cheese while the pico imparted the right amount of lightness to things. There were some pretty focused flavors here, but the course was also just slutty enough to make it good drunk food. You should order this.


Coliflor [$2.50] | Battered cauliflower, Salsa veracruzana, On flour tortilla
We would eventually make our way through the entire taco menu, and the gauntlet got off to a flying start with the cauliflower incarnation. Texturally, the florets were crisp and satisfying, imbued with a slight touch of spice while the creamy sauce brought it all together. This should be on your list to try.


Caipirinha [$6.00] | cachaça, lime, fennel
Colonia's take on the Caipirinha was effective, showing off the classic, refreshing character of the drink with just a trace of anise from the fennel.


Barbacoa [$4.00] | Braised lamb, Cilantro, Onion
The barbacoa was also a standout, the slow-cooked lamb arriving with a wonderful bite to it and just brimming with peppery, ovine flair. If that wasn't enough, the taco came with a cup of chipotle-infused braising liquid, which added a fantastic, earthy depth to the meat that elevated it even further.


Tongue [$4.00] | Beef tongue, Pico de gallo, Beans
Despite coming in unusually large chunks, lengua was especially tender, though lacking in flavor, which seemed odd given the strength of the rest of the food. I did appreciate the counterpoint provided by the beans, and the salsa worked, but the supposed star of the show underwhelmed.


Michelada [$7.00] | lime, spice, ice
If you're only getting one cocktail, perhaps it should be the Michelada (made with Dos Equis I believe), which was certainly one of the best preparations I've had, a fun, refreshing concoction with a deft blend of sweet, sour, spicy, and savory. Take note that this is the only drink we ordered a second round of.


Chicharron [$4.00] | Pork skin, Beans, Avocado, Salsa
Chicharrones were unabashedly porky in nature, just loaded with piggy flavors that made sense against the various accompaniments, the frijoles in particular. My only warning here is that the gelatinous consistency of the pork can be disconcerting to those expecting the crunchy type of skin you often find.


Doraditos [$5.00] | Crispy potato, Cheese
The deep-fried potato tacos were another highlight for me, the hearty, smooth papas melding well with the cheese while the various greenery provided a perfect balance to things. Quite possibly the best tater tacos I've had.


Oaxaca Calling [$9.00] | vodka, lime, peppermint, jamaica, mezcal
Our next cocktail was the Oaxaca Calling, which had a lot of sweetness up front from the jamaica leading to a somewhat bitter finish, but with a sort of minty overtone enveloping the entire experience. I would've liked more a pronounced taste from the mezcal though.


Duck [$4.50] | Duck confit, smokey guacamole
The pato was yet another table favorite, displaying a super intense "duckiness" to it that made it one of the most profound preparations of the bird I've had. I loved the crispy, caramelized bits here as well, not to mention the zip of the pickles on top.


Campeon [$3.00] | Seared queso fresco, Bacon, Molcajete, Avocado
The requisite cheese taco was a winner too, reminding one of my dining companions of "breakfast in Mexico City." It really was quite lovely, the combination of cheese against salty bacon and creamy avocado satisfying in a pretty base way.


Mai-Tai [$9.00] | rum, lime, pineapple
Our last cocktail of the night brought us the Mai-Tai, a non-traditional version of the classic that conveyed the boozy weight of rum at first, but with the pineapple giving things a tropical sweetness toward the midpalate.


Pavo Pibil [$4.00] | Turkey, Achiote, Onion pickles, Salsa
The special of the evening was a turkey taco, and it just might've been the most flavorful presentation of the bird I've had, its creeping bit of spice nicely accented by the zing of achiote while the pickles imparted a great crunch to the mix.


Sonora [$4.50] | Steak, Raw green salsa, Onion, Cilantro, On flour tortilla
A Sonoran-style asada managed to become another one of my favs as well. The steak itself was superb in taste and in texture, but the crux here was the combo of raw salsa and charred scallion, both of which gave the dish a fantastic brightness to go against the meat.


Pork & Pumpkin [$3.00] | Kabocha squash, Seed salsa
The carnitas-esque pork was surprisingly good. I was afraid that the squash would render this overly sugary, and indeed the nose was full of sweet spice, but taste-wise, just think a really lush presentation of pork, with a touch of kabocha sweetness and the pepitas adding a superb textural contrast.


Huitlacoche [$3.00] | Mushrooms, Bourbon cilantro sauce, Avocado
The corn smut taco is another one you need to get, the "mushrooms" giving up a deep, earthy richness that just paired perfectly with the verve of that cilantro salsa. Pretty awesome.


At this point, we decided to move on to beers. First up was the Cucapa Lookout [$6], a blonde ale with a great base of malty sweetness tempered by some tasty floral, hoppy qualities. The Silly Saison [$7], meanwhile, was even better with its fantastic fruity character paired with a bit of earthy, yeasty funk.


Pollo Tesmole [$3.00] | Chicken, Masa thickened spice sauce
The chicken taco was rather enjoyable too, the tender bird serving as a fitting base on which the deep, satisfying sauce could really sing. Nice use of the onions here, too.


Chayote [$2.50] | Squash succotash, Cheese, Corn
A calabacitas-y taco was a pleasant surprise I must say, the veggies really coming together admirably in a mélange of tastes and textures, all bound together by a sweet, savory, spicy liquid.


Avocado Crunchy [$3.50] | Hard shell, Fennel, Pineapple, Vegetables
The second crispy taco of the night also managed to satisfy with its smart mix of vegetables, the piquant sauce here really doing a great job in integrating all the flavors at play. Superb crunch on that taco shell, too.


Beef [$4.00] | Smoked porter braised beef, Salsa
A stew of beef was uncommonly tender, though flavor-wise, it didn't stand out to me. I wanted to taste more of that smokiness from the porter.


Camaron [$4.00] | Sauteed shrimp, Aji, On flour tortilla
Yet another favorite was the camarones, the shrimp here arriving expertly cooked and showing off a wonderfully focused brine, one tempered by the toppings of red cabbage and scallion while the coconut rice served as a unique moderating element.


Voodoo [$4.00] | Habanero-honey salsa, Chicken, Cucumber
We ended, naturally, with the spiciest taco in the bunch. It certainly didn't compare to the hottest menu item at Guisados, but packed a punch in its own right, the habanero really imparting a sharp bit of heat to the comparatively subdued chicken. I did like the cucumbers here as well, which worked in putting out some of the fire.


Bunuelos [$4.00]
Time for dessert. I rather liked the buñuelos, wonderfully crunchy shards of dough dusted with a coating of sweet spice. Delectable alone, and even better with a dab of that honeyed condiment on the side.


Ate con Crema y Queso [$5.00]
Last up was the ate de membrillo, a sort of quince paste that came in neat squares atop equally neat square of queso. My dining companions weren't too fond of these, but I enjoyed them, finding the sweet-savory interplay and textures here pretty pleasing.

Count Colonia as yet another feather in Ricardo Diaz's cap. The food here is at least as good as what was served over at Guisados I'd say, and you have the added benefit of booze. The Chef has done the taco proud, once again. So what's next? Now if you recall, Chef Diaz and the Aguirres were supposed to partner up for Duro, an eatery dedicated solely to crispy tacos and flautas. It was set to debut in the coming months at the site of the Siete Mares in Silver Lake, though with the recent developments, I'm not sure what's going on (the Aguirres may just open up Duro by themselves). Further along, Diaz has also expressed interest in Chorizo Amor, a Mexican sausage-plus-beer concept that was originally slated for the Duro space, so hopefully that'll come to fruition.

Xian Wei (San Pedro, CA)

Xian Wei Private Dinner Series
San Pedro, CA 90731
www.xian-wei.com
Sat 01/25/2014, 06:00p-09:30p



Los Angeles' newest underground supper club debuted on January 18th, and just might be our City's first dedicated to Chinese cookery. Xian Wei ("savory" in Mandarin, roughly), though, doesn't do traditional O.G. S.G.V. Chinese dishes, nor does it offer up the slick, international interpretations of places such as Hakkasan. Rather, the food of 19-year-old Chef Luther Chen represents an attempt to present a decidedly modern slant on the cuisine. The project is a joint effort between Chen, business manager Kenny Liu, and "curator"-slash-marketer Clarissa Wei, whom you've probably heard of from her extensive coverage of the Chinese scene here in LA. The dinners are held at a private residence in San Pedro, and seatings are limited to eight people at a time.

About the Chef: A SoCal native, Luther Bob Chen was raised in Arcadia, where he was able to enjoy all that the Valley had to offer in terms of traditional Chinese cooking. Driven by an interest in food, he started his career in the biz in 2012 while still a senior in high school, working at AKA bistro in Pasadena. After graduating that summer from Arcadia High, he started at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park to solidify his foundations in classic French technique. Following his first year there, Chen moved down south to Georgia to extern at the Sea Island Resort, cooking at The Georgian Room at The Cloister under Executive Chef Daniel Zeal. He was mentored by Zeal, his boss David Carrier, as well as the resort's Exec Chef Jonathan Jerusalmy. During this period, he also worked a second job as garde manger at Southern Tide at The Beach Club, another one of the property's eateries.

His stint in Georgia complete, Chen took an academic pause from the CIA and travel to China and Taiwan for two months, really absorbing the food culture there. He returned Stateside reinvigorated and with a newfound passion for the regional variations of the cuisine, and then decided that he was going to dedicate his career to Chinese-inspired cooking. To that effect, he started the Xian Wei series earlier this year, and is also working on Shao Kao BBQ, a new food truck featuring Chinese street food-style barbeque skewers.


Before the dinner, Chen was interviewed for a piece on KCRW.


Xian Wei's seven-course menu features five main dishes, each paying homage to a specific regional cuisine of China, joined by an amuse and dessert. The cost is $75, or $110 with wine pairing, and BYOB is definitely an option. Click for a larger version.



I made sure to take full advantage of the BYO policy and brought along six beers to share: Bootlegger's Old World Hefeweizen, Birrificio Barley Toccadibò, Allagash Interlude, Cismontane T.J. Slough, Noble Ale Works Citra Showers, and Pretty Things Baby Tree. All ended up being quite lovely in their own right, and not too shabby with the food, either.


We commenced with a "bonus" course--composed on the fly--featuring pig snout that'd been pressure-cooked with clove, star anise, and cinnamon, enrobed in a Sichuan hot bean paste, then draped with disks of daikon and sprinkled with wood sorrel (that the Chef foraged himself) and cilantro oil. I think this nicely captured Chen's culinary aesthetic, an elegant ode to Chinese flavors with the earthy, deep savor of the pork perfectly balanced against the juicy crunch of daikon and overarching brightness of cilantro, all with a great lingering heat underscoring the entire dish. A very good start.


1: sesame | 30-second microwave sesame cake, sesame salt, fermented bean curd
Serving as a sort of amuse were two shards of the iSi-charged "aerated brioche" popularized by the likes of Michael Voltaggio. The ones here utilized a sesame seed paste mixed with batter, and came with two accompaniments. First was a version topped with sesame salt, which definitely enhanced the inherent nuttiness of the batter. The second, meanwhile, featured fermented bean paste, so it showed off a great tanginess and depth to go along with the light, airy cake.


2: sichuan pickles | daikon, cucumber, wood ear mushroom, sichuan peppercorn
We were encouraged to eat this next course in one bite, and I think that was key. With all the elements in place, everything just came together. The textures were satisfying, especially the springy, spongy wood ear, and the confluence of sweet, sour, and creeping spice made for some great transitions on the palate, all tied together by that Szechuan peppercorn vinaigrette. Very neat.



3: anhui tofu | fresh tofu, bean curd broth, quahog
Chen's take on tofu seemed to be a table favorite, and with good reason. The broth here was pretty amazing, a heady, aromatic, and yes, xian concoction that melded beautifully with the silky, subtly sweet curd. At the same time, the use of clams effectively heightened the savoriness of the course, and there was even a ginger-y, offsetting sort of tartness that I rather liked.


Assistant Laura helps with the plating.



4: shanghai 85° xlb | head-to-toe berkshire pork, chesapeake crab
Chen had been busy working on his xiaolongbao prior to the dinner, and the version he turned out this evening was commendable. Made with a commixture of Berkshire pork belly, snout, shoulder, and trotters, it was a "head-to-tail" XLB that was easily the most porcine example I'd ever tasted, truly conveying the unmitigated essence of the animal. If that wasn't enough, the soup dumpling was enrobed in a veil of gingery aromatics and a smoky tinge from a layer of mesquite wood chips underneath, both of which worked hand-in-hand to complement the intensity of the Virginia ham-based broth. The final touch was a drizzle of Chinkiang vinegar to complete the dish. My concern here? I really would've liked to have tasted more from the crab.


5: guangdong yu | cured white pomfret, fermented young sprouts, burnt tomatillo
Next was a presentation of pomfret, Guangdong-style, and cooked en papillote. The result was arguably the strongest presentation of the fish I've had, the subtle salinity of the chang yu working sublimely against the piquancy of tomatillo and the light, bright nuances from the cilantro, pea shoot, and sprouts in particular. However, I wanted a meatier, more substantial piece of the fish so that I could've better appreciated the various tastes and textures going on here.


6: xinjiang shaokao | chinese street barbeque lamb, eggplant, cultured soy yogurt, leaves of young peas
The meal's climax brought us a gorgeous cut of lamb, one done rare, but not too rare, with a particularly mouthwatering savor to it enhanced by the spicy, cumin-y notes in the meat. A streak of homemade soy yogurt provided an effective cooling component on the plate, and I was quite a fan of the greenery here as well, not to mention the smokiness of the roasted Thai eggplant on the side. It was certainly one of the tastiest presentations of lamb that I'd had in a while.


7: taro | textures of ice, taro cremeux, tapioca, brown sugar chestnut
Chinese desserts aren't exactly my cup of tea generally, but Chen's cloched finisher here didn't let me down. Taro arrived cooked in coconut milk, the subtle sweetness of the root playing well with the sugary chestnuts and making for a cohesive whole. Some lovely textures, too.

I wasn't sure what to expect coming in to this, but I see a lot of promise in Chen's food here. Traditional tastes were twisted, remixed with a certain elegance and an eye toward modernity, but the results still properly displayed the essence of Chinese cuisine, and were delicious to boot. Flavors were robust, yet nuanced, not to mention deep and well-developed, exuding a certain focus and restraint uncommon in the style. As far as I know, there's no one else doing this kind of cooking, and I'm very curious as to where the Chef takes this all. As for what's next in the immediate future, Chen plans to continue this dinner series, but is also hard at work getting his Shao Kao barbeque truck going (I believe there's going to be a Kickstarter). Personally, I can see the truck turning into a small brick-and-mortar restaurant, with a "chef's counter" or similar area set up to present these sort of multi-course tasting menus. This is one I'm going to have to keep an eye out for.

Herringbone (West Hollywood, CA)

Herringbone Restaurant
8440 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
323.848.6000
www.herringboneeats.com/los-angeles/
Fri 01/24/2014, 08:10p-11:00p



Los Angeles' first major "celebrity chef" opening of the year comes to us from Brian Malarkey, whom you may know from his appearance on Top Chef and dwindling restaurant empire down in San Diego. On January 17th, he debuted the second outpost of his "Fish Meats Field" concept Herringbone, set at the Mondrian Los Angeles and replacing the space's former tenant, Asia de Cuba. The eatery, thus, joins the ranks of Enlightened Hospitality Group's other fabric-related projects--Searsucker, Burlap, Gabardine--all of which specialize in "social dining," which you can take to mean that the spot is going to be sort of a scene.

About the Chef: Born in 1972, Malarkey grew up on a ranch in Bend, Oregon, and got interested in the culinary arts through his grandmother and her friend James Beard (yes, that James Beard). He eventually made his way to Portland's Western Culinary Institute, and graduated from its Le Cordon Bleu program in 1994. Following, he moved to Los Angeles, where he cooked under Michel Richard at Citrus, before embarking on a culinary tour of Europe and North Africa. Malarkey then made his way back Stateside and became Sous Chef at the Oceanaire Seafood Room in Minnesota in 2001, but quickly moved to Oceanaire's Seattle outpost as Executive Sous. He stayed there until 2004, then went down to San Diego to open Oceanaire in Downtown as Executive Chef and partner. In 2007, he achieved national attention as a finalist on Top Chef Season 3, and ended up leaving Oceanaire in 2009, ostensibly to spend more time with his family.

Following the departure, Malarkey teamed with nightlife guru James Brennan to start the Enlightened Hospitality Group, and they launched their first project, Searsucker, in San Diego's Gas Lamp district in July 2010. The place was a hit, and its success allowed the duo to open other restaurants, as well as their own catering company, Campine, with Antonio Friscia. July 2011 saw the debut of Burlap in Del Mar, a sort of "West meet East" fusion-y type place headed by Anthony Sinsay, while Ginham arrived in La Mesa in January 2012. Enlightened's fourth concept, a seafooder called Gabardine, bowed in March that year in Point Loma, and the first Herringbone was revealed in May, helmed by Top Chef alumna Amanda Baumgarten. Malarkey then took an unexpected detour when he invested in Olubugo, a restaurant in Uganda that benefits the AIDS non-profit Aidchild. He rounded out the year with the premiere of Searsucker Scottsdale, the release of his cookbook Come Early, Stay Late, and the introduction of casual cafe concept Green Acre at the Nautilus life sciences campus.

2013 kicked off with Malarkey's appearance on ABC's The Taste, though he hit some bumps that year as well. Ginham ended up shuttering in May after rumors of EHG shopping the place around, while Burlap closed in June. Sinsay was supposed to stay on during the transition, but jumped ship to La Villa, and Baumgarten decamped from Herringbone around the same time, too. On the positive side, Searsucker Austin got underway in May; Searsucker Del Mar commenced similarly in July, set in the old Burlap space; and another outlet of Green Acre opened at Campus Pointe.

2014, finally, has been quite active so far for Malarkey and company. In early January, Gabardine ceased doing business, as did Searsucker in Scottsdale. More surprisingly, a majority stake in Enlightened was sold (for a rumored $28 million) to Hakkasan Ltd, a global restaurant group backed by Tasameem, the property arm of the Abu Dhabi sovereign wealth fund. This all brings us back to Herringbone WeHo, the first project of EHGRP's under its new ownership that opened with Anthony Sinsay once again back at Malarkey's side as Chef de Cuisine.


Herringbone takes over the old 7,500sqft Asia de Cuba spot, and the space has been revamped by longtime Malarkey collaborator Thomas Shoos. I think beach house living room is what they were going for, if that makes sense, with Schoos' trademark eclecticism present but somewhat restrained. It's a pretty comfy, warm space, though too dim (as in need-to-use-your-phone-to-read-the-menu dim).


As far as Herringbone's menu goes, it's described by the Chef as "twists" on classic comfort dishes. It's not that far off from the menu down in San Diego (though there certainly are WeHo-specific items such as the asada fries), and still features the restaurant's signature blend of seafood, remixed with meat. Meanwhile, to drink, you've got a few somewhat-interesting cocktails, a decent wine list, and a smattering of beers. Click for larger versions.


Painted Elephant [$14.00] | Pineapple Infused Bacardi, Lime Juice, Simple Syrup, Basil
The Painted Elephant drank like a mojito, not surprising given its ingredients, though the basil did impart a bit of a slant on the classic flavors.


Bad Bad T-Roy Brown [$14.00] | Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Carpano Sweet Vermouth, Sugar Cube, Orange, Cherry, Bitters
Slightly more interesting was the Bad Bad T-Roy Brown, which played a boozy base of bourbon against some pleasant bittersweet notes. Nicely integrated.


Lamb & Smoked Salmon Tartare [$15.00] | shallot, caper, quail egg, pretzel crackers
We got started with a tartar that commingled lamb with salmon. It worked out really quite well, the smoky flavors of the fish pairing smartly with the meat, all while the shallots and capers added a bit of zing to the dish. A commendable take on the Continental classic, and one of the highlights of the meal.


Hamachi & Duck Crackl'n Crudo [$16.00] | smoked grape, pickled serrano gribiche
The hamachi crudo also worked things out, with the clean, just-fatty-enough fish accented by the salty crunch of the cracklings and the tang of the serrano gribiche.


Chicken Liver Mousse & Caviar [$18.00] | quince paste, calvados macerated green apple, brioche
The last of our cold appetizers was the liver. Here you had the sweetness of the fruit, the saltiness of the caviar, and the earthy smack of the offal. The elements made sense alone, but somehow when taken at the same time, it didn't all come together, and the liver just didn't sing.


Extra Special Peter Rabbit [$17.00] | Pimms #1, House Infused Cucumber Gin & Basil Lemonade
For something lighter, the Extra Special Peter Rabbit gave up a lemonade-y air to it, the sweet-spicy base of Pimm's working nicely alongside the aromatics of the basil, with the gin adding just a hint of cucumber to the mix.


Wood Fired Octopus [$16.00] | sweet potato, mojo verde, piquillo pepper
As you might know by now, I'm quite the sucker for octopus, but the version here didn't live up to expectations sadly. The tentacles were just too chewy, and although there was a great bit of char, the flavors were on the muddled side and needed to be developed further. More of that tangy mojo wouldn't have hurt, either.


Carne Asada Fries "SD in LA" [$13.00] | shortrib, avocado, crema, pico, cheddar
Asada fries are a late night staple of mine, so this was obviously a must-try for me (and you too, probably). I was expecting the kitchen to turn out an uppity version of the dish, but no, this was legit, and just as satisfying as what you might find at Alberto's (or Alerto's), but with better quality ingredients. Yum.


Shrimp & Grits [$14.00] | linguica, orange, fennel, nora's chili
Shrimp 'n' grits is another one of those things that I have a hard time not ordering. Herringbone's, though, fell short. The shrimp were a tad overdone, but more concerning were the grits, which lacked taste. I wasn't feeling the citrus here, either, though I did really like the deep flavors of the linguiça, which almost saved the dish.


Paper Tiger [$14.00] | Russian Standard Vodka, Chartreuse, Lime Juice, Simple Syrup, Mint
Time for a couple more cocktails. The Paper Tiger was fairly straightforward, the light, bright core of the drink amped up by a trace of Chartreuse complexity.


Jalaberry Strawpeno [$14.00] | Strawberry Jalapeno Tequila, Agave Nectar, Lime Juice
Finally, we had the Jalaberry Strawpeno, which was pretty much a strawberry margarita, but with a lovely undercurrent of heat to it.


Pork Belly [$28.00] | wood roasted sunchoke, manila clam, calvados jus, green apple
And now, our two mains. The belly worked out well, the meat displaying a good ratio of fat and lean along with a crispy crust and just boatloads of piggy goodness. I appreciated the astringent counterpoint from the scallions as well, and the whole dish had an Asian-y flair to it that worked.


Seared Diver Scallops [$31.00] | crispy sweet breads, parisian gnocchi, persimmon, sage
The scallops were also on point, well cooked to a firm, yet still supple consistency, and with a very apparent brine to 'em. I quite liked the textural contrast of the gnocchi here, but the crux of the dish was the use of sweetbreads, which imparted a salty, crunchy exclamation point to the course.


Dessert at Herringbone is a pretty simple affair, with a throwback vibe to it. Click for a larger version.


Warm Maple Caramel Donuts [$14.00] | Maple sugar, caramel, orange marmalade, maple bourbon gelato
Doughnuts were recommended by our server and delivered as expected, coming out salty, sweet, and fluffy. They were rather tasty on their own, but the star here was clearly that ice cream, which perfectly blended the sweetness of maple with a boozy hit of bourbon--I could eat an entire pint of the stuff and be happy.


Creamsicle [$14.00] | Buttermilk genoise, tangerine semifreddo, white chocolate & milk crumble, crispy tangerines
The reimagined "creamsicle" also worked for me, really recalling what's great about the classic dessert, with the citrus playing foil to the buttery sponge cake in praiseworthy fashion. Great textures, too.

My meal here was about what I expected. The whole "surf plus turf" concept has merit I think, and came together really nicely in some of the dishes, but at the same time, I took exception to a few of the courses as well. Herringbone is still relatively new though, so I'm hoping that the cooking will be tightened up given some time. Considering the location (Sunset) and the clientele (pretty), you could certainly do worse. Apparently, Malarkey is working on launching an LA outpost of Searsucker as well, so I'd be curious about that one too, though I do hope the Chef goes for something more intimate, and not quite as grandiose next time around.