Saso (Pasadena, CA)

Saso Restaurant
37 S El Molino Ave, Pasadena, CA 91101
626.808.4976
www.sasobistro.com
Thu 04/29/2021, 07:45p-10:40p





I've always felt that Spanish cuisine is somewhat underrepresented in the Los Angeles region, so I was glad when I heard about Saso's impending debut last year. Named after the Basque word for ocean (itsaso), the seafood-centric restaurant resides at the Pasadena Playhouse, and though it was supposed to open in November, ended up dropping on February 18th due to coronavirus-related delays. The Chef/Owner behind the spot is none other than Dominique Crisp, who's most known around these parts for his work over at L&E Oyster Bar.

About the Chef: A native of Wren, Oregon, Dom Crisp grew up on his family's vineyard and got interested in food at a young age. He landed his first restaurant job when he was 15, working at a local pizzeria in Corvallis. After finishing high school, he went to Forcalquier, a small town in Provence, to train at Le Bistrot de Pierrerue, which was actually owned by distant members of his family. Upon returning Stateside, Crisp studied French at Oregon State University, then moved to Portland in 2008, when he was 21. He cooked at a number of spots in PDX, including Davide Filippini's Trattoria Gallo Nero, cocktail bar Rum Club, and perhaps most importantly, the gastropubby Dig a Pony.

In September 2015, he moved to Southern California for a girl: his now-wife Alicia Fairbrother. Now in SoCal, Crisp found employment as a sous at Silver Lake's L&E Oyster Bar, and eventually took over the kitchen upon the departure of opening EC Spencer Bezaire. Then, in February 2018, he himself decamped to become Executive Chef at Blue Plate Oysterette. However, after a visit to Basque Country in October 2019, he decided to strike out on his own, and left the Santa Monica eatery in February 2020 to start work on Saso.

Joining Crisp in the kitchen here are Pastry Chef Dolly Webster and Sous Chef Timothy Garcia, while GM Matt Krawczyk (an alum of LGO Hospitality) handles the FOH and Brian Vito Morales (The Nixon Steakhouse in Whittier) takes care of the bar.


Pictured above is Saso's main dining room (penned by Nicholas Musso, Crisp's old boss at Dig a Pony), which takes over a space previously occupied by the likes of Trejo's Cantina, Redwhite+Bluezz, and Elements Kitchen.


We, however, ended up sitting outside in the cozy courtyard.


Here we see Saso's Basque-influenced, seafood-focused menu, which is joined by a pretty interesting selection of cocktails, a compact wine list, and a smattering of beer. Click for larger versions.


Txolo Squinkles [$13.00] | tequila, mezcal, poblano liqueur, lime, grapefruit
We ended up making our way through six cocktails, beginning with this paloma riff. Think easy-going and refreshing, with dimensions of smoke, agave, citrus, and heat all presenting themselves in measured amounts.


Croketas [$9.00] | house made croquettes (3)
Croquetas were drier than I'd prefer, but also delightfully crunchy and very, very flavorful. They were appetizing just on their own, but were undoubtedly improved with a dab of that creamy, subtly spicy sauce smeared on the bowl.


Grilled Asparagus [$14.00] | poached egg, shaved caviar, breadcrumb, mushroom vinaigrette
Our next dish was a definite standout, and one of the best preparations of asparagus I've had in a while. The spears were perfectly crisp and juicy, and showed off a bitterness that meshed beautifully with that runny egg and those salty, savory crumbs.


Flip the Script [$13.00] | cognac, torani, campari, lemon, lime, orgeat, egg
This flip variation ended up being my favorite cocktail of the bunch. I loved its combination of nutty, fruity, and almost candied flavors, which meshed like clockwork with the milky, eggy components in the drink. I found this somehow familiar, but at the same time exciting.


Txangurro Tortas [$12.00] | dungeness crab cakes, queso navarra, hot peppers, avocado crema
Mini crab cakes demonstrated a surprising depth, their brine and savor joined by cheesy qualities and a smidge of levity from the avocado.


Txirla [$13.00] | local clams from the josper, sherry vinegar, spring pea, herb oil
Clams were perfectly textured, and set in a super flavorful, olive oil-heavy broth. The key here, though, was the use of pea greens, which did a wonderful job offsetting the salinity of the bivalves.


Chiquita Sangria [$9.00] | rosé, brandy, honey, market fruit, cinnamon
Saso's take on sangria was classic at its core, but I appreciated the additional oomph from the brandy, while the cinnamon imparted an agreeable spice.


Txuletta Tartarra [$16.00] | wagyu tartare, caviar, celery, anchovy aioli, sourdough chip
The beef tartar managed to be another standout. The wagyu was superbly textured, and I really liked the oceany additions of both salmon roe and anchovy. Even better, however, was the inclusion of celery, with its bright, vegetal notes that really made the dish sing. Big fan of that super crunchy bread, too.


Izokin Carpaccio [$14.00] | ora king salmon, oil cured olives, shallot, lemon zest, radish, capers
Substantial cuts of salmon were joined by potent portions of olive and caper, fortunately without being overwhelmed. Crucial was the hot, zesty nature of the raw shallot and radish, which helped uplift the plate.


Up the Ante [$14.00] | bourbon, amaro montenegro, suze, bitters chip
Next to arrive was no doubt the booziest cocktail of the evening, one that combined the kick of whiskey with plenty of citrusy, bitter notes layered over a sugary backbone.


Pasta Saso [$24.00] | handmade duck egg-yolk pasta, shellfish, fin fish, prawn, ginger
At this point we moved into our mains. The pasta was a crowd pleaser, the noodles demonstrating a supple, silky texture and elegant flavor profile that married easily with all the briny components in the dish. Each item of seafood was dutifully presented, and I especially enjoyed the salmon.


Goi Solomoa [$29.00] | australian angus strip, caramelized onion, demi-glace, fries
Time for steak. We requested the cut medium-rare, but unfortunately it arrived at the table a solid medium-plus. That being said, it was still quite enjoyable, with plenty of juiciness and tenderness along with a very gratifying depth of savor. Meanwhile, the fries were on point, though I will say that I didn't need so much demi-glace on the plate.


Spanish Coffee [$15.00] | 151 rum, mezcal, coffee liqueur, coffee, toasted marshmallow
With our savories dispensed with, we ended up getting two dessert-appropriate cocktails. The first one was served piping hot, and displayed loads of fluffy, sugary marshmallow up front leading to plenty of boozy, spicy, coffee-tinged notes.


Torrija [$9.00] | brûléed french toast, house churned ice cream
This Spanish take on French toast featured a sweet, saturated, crispy cuboid of bread that was tasty alone, but much improved when taken with the accompanying ice cream.


Basque Cheese Cake [$9.00] | matcha, beet syrup
I've had a surprisingly large number of Basque cheesecakes over the past year or so, but this was quite unlike any of them. There was the green tea, of course, but also the consistency of the cake, which was on the denser side, while I didn't get the smokiness I was expecting.


Vito's Coldbrew [$14.00] | bourbon, licor 43, espresso, orange cream, churro dust
Our final cocktail exhibited the classic cold brew coffee flavors I was anticipating, its elements of roast and fruit backed by a spicy, caramel-like undertone.

Overall, I'd have to call this meal a success. Crisp is doing a commendable job presenting another facet of coastal Spanish cookery, one that we perhaps don't encounter all that often here in the Southland. The place seems to fill a bit of a void for me (and many others, it seems), and I'm quite content to have Saso as a new dining option in the SGV. I'm sure I'll be back here eventually.

Bar Bohémien (Culver City, CA)

Bar Bohemien at Citizen Public Market
9355 Culver Blvd, Culver City, CA 90232
310.730.6610
www.barbohemien.com
Wed 04/28/2021, 08:30p-10:20p





My last post detailed a meal I had at WeHo Sausage Co, located inside Culver City's new Citizen Public Market. Now since I was already there, I decided to also check out Bar Bohémien, a bar on the second floor of the building that opened in early April.

The drinking spot owes its existence to Russell Malixi, Wade McElroy, and Andrew Corbett, the team behind establishments such as Horse Thief BBQ at Grand Central Market, Cafe Birdie/Good Housekeeping in Highland Park, Bar Angeles in Silver Lake (now closed), Ma'am Sir (which took over Bar Angeles but is now also closed), Ichijiku Sushi in Highland Park (in the old RBTA space right next door to Cafe Birdie), and Sunset Sushi (which took over Ma'am Sir).

Do note that, due to coronavirus restrictions, indoor seating was not permitted at the bar this evening, so I had to enjoy my drinks either on the attached rooftop patio, or in one of the downstairs dining areas.


As for the menu at Bar Bohémien, you get a handful of beers and wines, but the real draw is the cocktail selection, all put together by Beverage Director AC Baker, an alumna of Simonette, Katana, Brennan's, Wabi-Sabi, Tao Group, and The Glendon Bar & Kitchen. Do note that there was no food offered. Click for larger versions.


Moonchild [$14.00] | Monkey Shoulder Scotch, Lemon, Banana-Ginger, Orange Honey, Walnut Bitters
We'll begin with this riff on the modern icon that is the Penicillin. I got all the fruity, zesty flavors I was wanting and expecting, backed up by the whisky of course, but it was the nuttiness on the finish that really set this cocktail apart.


Fire & Rain [$14.00] | Martin Miller Gin, Del Maguey Vida Mezcal, Guava, Velvet Falernum, Lemon, Lavender Bitters
This next cocktail brought notes of tropical fruit, heat, and smoke up front, overarched by a subtle floral character, but the back end turned into something that I found somewhat reminiscent of grapefruit soda.


Just Vibe [$14.00] | Altos Reposado Tequila, Yellow Chartreuse, Lime, Agave, Hellfire Bitters
The evening's third cocktail was a surprisingly harmonious marriage of tequila and Chartreuse, one demonstrating an agave-tinged, herbaceous heat cut by a marked undercurrent of sweetness.


Nirvana [$15.00] | Uncle Nearest 1856 Whiskey, Lemon Cordial, Angostura Amaro, Black Lemon Bitters
Last up was certainly the most potent cocktail I tried. My initial impressions were of an especially boozy cough syrup, but this quickly led to flavors that went in an earthy, spicy, herbal direction, but perked up by nuances of citrus fruit.


Closing out the night was a pour of the Ilegal Mezcal Reposado [$16.00]. Perhaps due to its four months spent aging in bourbon barrels, the spirit was noticeably easier drinking than a lot of other mezcals, showcasing a distinctive layer of caramel-like sweetness and a surprisingly soft mouthfeel.

Adding an upstairs drinking spot to Citizen Public Market was a smart move, and Bar Bohémien certainly made for a pleasant end to my evening. I'll be back here next time I'm at CPM.

The WeHo Sausage Co (Culver City, CA)

The WeHo Sausage Company at Citizen Public Market
9355 Culver Blvd, Culver City, CA 90232
310.869.5824
www.thewehosausagecompany.com
Wed 04/28/2021, 08:20p-09:30p





Food halls have become sort of a "thing" over the past several years, and LA's latest entrant is Citizen Public Market, which opened on November 18th, right before our huge coronavirus spike. Located in a historic 1929 Beaux Arts-Art Deco structure that formerly served as the headquarters for Citizens Publishing Company, the building provides room for eight vendors. However, not all the spaces are filled, and as of this writing, there are but six tenants: coffee shop-café Goodboybob, seafood specialist Jolly Oyster, (stuffed) pizza spot Pizzette, taco slanger Mexicology, rooftop drinking den Bar Bohémien, and the subject of this post: WeHo Sausage Co.

About the Chef: WeHo Sausage is the brainchild of Peter Tulaney, a native of Bay Ridge, Brooklyn who actually didn't set out to become a chef. After graduating from Bucknell University, he moved to Southern California to attend Pepperdine, where he attained a master's in clinical psychology in 2005. He then began working as a marriage/family therapist in the Malibu area, and in 2009, even started his own children's art therapy practice called Malibu Art Barn. In 2012, Tulaney was gifted a KitchenAid stand mixer from a friend who had won it on The Price Is Right. Having always loved cooking, he quickly started experimenting with the machine's meat grinder and sausage stuffer attachments, and began bringing his homemade sausages to events hosted by friends.

At one of these gatherings in 2013, another guest wound up hiring Tulaney to cater a birthday party, which forced him to establish a properly registered and licensed catering business. Now a professional caterer working out of a kitchen at 1313 West 8th Street in Westlake (which also had a small retail lunch counter), he decided to finally step away from his psychotherapy career in 2016. At the start of 2018, he expanded his business to encompass Los Angeles Office Catering Co (a collaborative concept offering catering from multiple caterers) and Action Catering (focused on the television and film industry). In 2019, he catered a child's birthday brunch, and happened to meet one of Citizen Public Market's developers, who eventually convinced Tulaney to join the food hall as one of its opening tenants.


Despite this place's name, WeHo Sausage doesn't serve your classic tubed meats. Instead, it offers sausage patty sandwiches along with housemade charcuterie and various accompaniments. The food stall also boasts a surprisingly impressive beer list, one with over 100 selections. Click for larger versions.


The Boulevard [$15.00] | Angus Beef Patty, Cheddar, Lettuce, Tomato, Pickle, Fancy Sauce
I think it made sense to start with your classic hamburger, which was a bit old school in its approach. It featured a savory, salty, well-griddled patty that was easy to enjoy. Pickles and onions offered up a bright, crunchy counterpoint, and the "fancy sauce" definitely helped tie everything together.


The Melrose [$12.00] | Pollo Asado Sausage Patty, Elote Salsa, Pickled Onion, Arugula, Jack Cheese
Up next was the most unconventional sandwich of the night. The patty did a nice job capturing the essence of pollo asado, though I found the corn overly sugary, as it tended to overwhelm the chicken. Fortunately, the onion and arugula did rein in some of that sweetness, making for more balanced bites.


French Fries - whole [$7.00] | Sea Salt, Garlic Parmesan, Za'atar
Made with russet potatoes, fries were assertively seasoned, which I appreciated. They were a natural pairing with the ketchup, but even better with a dab of that zingy housemade ranch.


The Marquis [$14.00] | Lamb Merguez Patty, Roasted Bell Pepper, Arugula and Red Onion Salata, Harissa Aioli
This was my favorite of the sandwiches. I loved the seasoning on the lamb leg patty, which ended up meshing wonderfully with the spicing on the bun. Also key was the contrast provided by the arugula and roasted peppers, while the slight heat of the aioli was spot on, too.


The Strip [$12.00] | Italian Pork Sausage Patty, Caramelized Onion and Bell Pepper, Arugula, Provolone
My final sandwich was also a winner. What struck me the most was how well-spiced the pork sausage was; it actually reminded me of the pizza topping, and that's a good thing. Arugula and peppers functioned beautifully here as well, and the cheese contributed an enveloping lushness that served as the perfect finishing touch.

The sausage patties tonight represented a twist on your traditional burger, one that I was actually pretty happy to see. WeHo Sausage provided a tasty introduction to Citizen Public Market, and I do plan on exploring more of the vendors in the future, starting with that bar upstairs...

Angry Egret Dinette (Los Angeles, CA)

Angry Egret Dinette at Mandarin Plaza
970 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.278.0987
www.aedinette.com
Sat 04/24/2021, 02:45p-04:00p





As we all know, LA was ground zero for the rise of the new school food truck, and certainly one of the more notable examples has to be Guerrilla Tacos. Started in 2014 by Wes Avila (after he graduated from a taco cart), Guerrilla Tacos quickly made a name for itself as one of the premier mobile food slangers in the Southland, and even landed the Chef a semifinalist nod from James Beard. A brick-and-mortar version of GT debuted in July 2018 in partnership with Brittney Valles, and was also generally well-received. The fame and acclaim that Avila had garnered even allowed him to launch a restaurant at the Ace Hotel in Kyoto. Called Piopiko, the eatery opened in June 2020, and describes itself as a "bar & taco lounge."

Nonetheless, Guerrilla Tacos was hit hard by the coronavirus shutdowns, and perhaps partly because of this, Avila announced his departure from his flagship restaurant back in August. He was replaced by Jason Beberman (who'd previously superseded Jessica Largey at Simone), while Steven Londono remained on board as CdC. However, Avila bounced back just months later with the opening of Angry Egret Dinette on October 24th. Located in the former Chinatown home of Becky Reams and Yeekai Lim's Lately, the place is focused on various cheffy interpretations of the Mexican torta.


The menu features Avila's fanciful takes on sandos and burritos, joined by a smattering of specials. Click for larger versions.


Baja Shrimp Po Boy [$17.00] | Fried shrimp, pico de gallo, cabbage, cucumber, salsa negra, avocado
I'm a fan of po' boys in general, and this was a strong rendition of the New Orleans staple. What I found most impressive were the actual shrimp, which were cooked just right and chock-full of sweet salinity. The avocado and veggies were a perfect pairing, and I appreciated the subtle undercurrent of heat. Also key was the soft-yet-substantial bolillo bread, which helped set the stage for everything.


Cubano sandwich [$16.00] | Prosciutto di Parma, roasted pork shoulder, maasdam cheese, mustard, mayo, pickles
The Cuban is another one of my favorite sandwiches, and this was a fine example. There was a fantastic marriage of meat and cheese, but the mustard-pickle combo was the third party that really spiced things up and enlivened the dish. Yum.


The 2016 Cigar City Hard Sauce was a bourbon barrel-aged strong ale with pecans and vanilla. The beer had a nose loaded with dark fruit, malt, and caramel, with some nuts in the background. Tasting it, I got the desired pecan pie flavors, though they were somewhat faded. Also present were more of those raisin-y notes, along with woody, bourbon-y elements, and a smidge of metallic bitterness.


The Mayor [$16.00] | Beef gyro meat, potato, tomato, cucumber, jalapeño, onion, kalamata olives, sumac, tzatziki, feta cheese in a burrito
Cuts of gyros meat were nicely spiced, and linked up easily with the tangy feta and light, refreshing nature of the veggies. The fries, meanwhile, actually worked to moderate the interaction, and I enjoyed the pungency from the olives, too.


Mc Torta [$10.00] | Breakfast sandwich with gyro beef, fried eggs, American cheese
I'm quite the proponent of the Egg McMuffin sandwich, and you totally get the reference here, especially with that "dusty" muffin bread. The gyros made another appearance, and the meat was certainly more assertively seasoned compared to what McDonald's uses. Even more assertive, though, was the cheese, which I found much more enveloping, palate-coating, and in-your-face (not necessarily a bad thing, mind you).


Veggie Machaca Flauta [$9.50] | Veggie machaca flauta made with mushrooms, green beans, potato, pine nuts, flour tortilla, onions, Serrano chile, salsa china, cilantro (very spicy)
Flautas are another one of those things that I always have to order, and Avila's version today didn't let me down. The kitchen was able to develop a pretty remarkable depth of flavor, and I didn't miss the meat at all. Particularly key was the caramelization achieved on the onions, not to mention the heartiness of the potatoes, and I loved the zippiness of the cilantro and salsa verde combo. Also of note was the dish's sturdy flour tortilla, which is apparently sourced from Mejorado, a new producer created by Alberto Bañuelos and Eduardo Ruiz.


Asada Torta [$16.00] | Asada, refried beans, jack cheese, onions, cilantro, Pico de gallo, guacamole, molcajete salsa, salsa verde
We'll conclude with one of the day's specials. Carne asada arrived well-seasoned, with a gratifying bite, savoriness, and sear. The meat was quite enjoyable just by itself, but also meshed wonderfully with the salsa and guac. What I was most surprised with, though, was the use of refried beans, a crucial addition that really helped bind everything together.

It's fairly rare that I make a special trek out to visit a daytime-only spot, but I'm glad I did. It was good to see Avila back in action, and even better to be able to taste the sort of flair and flourish he used to put into his tacos, but in a different format. So now I'm left wondering: how long is Angry Egret Dinette going to last? Initially, this was only supposed to be a three-month pop-up, but we're obviously already well beyond that. Will AED be permanent? And if so, how about expanding into dinnertime?

RiceBox (Los Angeles, CA)

The Rice Box at Spring Arcade Building
541 S Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.988.7395
www.ricebox.net
Tue 04/20/2021, 08:30p-09:45p





If you recall, back in March I had an excellent experience getting takeout from Johnny Lee's Pearl River Deli, and that meal actually reminded me of another new wave, casual Cantonese spot that I needed to try: RiceBox. Named after the Chinese term for "lunchbox" (飯盒, or fànhé), the eatery opened in Downtown's Spring Arcade Building back in 2018, and comes to us from Chef Leo Lee and wife Lydia Lee, both of whom grew up in restaurant-running families.

About the Chef: Leo's parents hail from Hong Kong and China, but he was actually born and raised in Mexicali, Mexico. As a youngster, he spent considerable time at his grandparents' Chinese restaurant, beginning his career there as a dishwasher before working his way up. To improve his culinary chops, he later moved to the US to study at the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park. After completing his two-year degree there, Leo cooked briefly in New York City before relocating to Miami, where he spent another couple of years. He then came to SoCal, and began working intermittently for Patina Restaurant Group. At PRG, he started out at Catal in Anaheim, then moved on to the company's more casual cafés in LA proper. During this period, Leo also augmented his hospitality education, and apparently even taught at the Art Institute of California's Orange County campus.

Lydia, meanwhile, is in charge of the front-of-the-house at RiceBox, and grew up in a restaurant family in Hong Kong. Her grandfather actually ran a Cantonese barbeque spot there for over two decades, while her uncle still operates BBQ joints in Taiwan. Her family eventually immigrated to Vancouver, and then to Southern California. After meeting Leo here, Lydia was able to secure her grandfather's recipes from her aforementioned uncle. Leo began updating and adapting said recipes, and the couple eventually opened RiceBox in September 2018 as a way to further Cantonese cooking here in the Southland. The place has always emphasized takeaway, which certainly plays well with the current coronavirus environment.


As for the menu, it's fairly compact, and focuses on a somewhat contemporary take on Cantonese barbecue (a.k.a. 燒味 or sīuméi). Think traditional flavors, but informed by the Chef's classical training. Click for a larger version.



Build Your Own Box [$14.50] | choose 2 items
OG Char Siu | slow cooked bbq Duroc pork, roasted and honey glazed
Soy Sauce Chicken | Mary's chicken poached in black soy with ginger scallion sauce
RiceBoxes are available in combo format, which is what I opted for in order to try as many proteins as I could. Let's commence with this twosome:

• It made sense to start with the signature char siu, made with pork butt that's marinated for a day, basted in honey, and cooked in a smoker. The end result was a superb rendition of the Canto staple. I was impressed by the shoulder's balance between smoke, honey-fueled sweetness, and lingering porcine funk, while the meat was spot on texturally as well, its tender, gratifying texture showing off a perfect ratio of lean-to-fat. I loved the crispy charred, caramelized bits on the outside, too. If it's your first time here, you just gotta try this.
• I enjoyed the chǐyóujī as well. Poached in soy stock for a reported three hours, the chicken had a lovely bite to it, along with a delicate savoriness from the soy sauce that married beautifully with all the zesty ginger.

Also included in the box were crunchy pickles and bitter greens, both of which acted as sort of palate cleansers. As for the rice, grains were dry and distinct, just how I like 'em.



RBX Cheesy Pork Egg Rolls [$8.75] | OG char siu with monterey jack cheese (3)
The egg rolls were quite unlike any other I've had before, marrying the familiar porky sweetness of charsiu with elements that reminded me of a mozzarella stick. It was sort of an odd combination, but one that somehow all came together when taken with a dab of the zingy chimichurri on the side.


The 2020 The Bruery Apfelsap was a wheatwine-style ale fermented with McIntosh apples and aged for over a year in Copper & Kings apple brandy barrels. The beer had an appealing nose filled with apple sauce-like sugariness, baking spice, malt, and caramel. Tasting it, I got sweet-n-spicy apple pie all over the place, joined by oak and light earth, all while the finish recalled Mott's apple juice. Very unique, and rather tasty to boot.


BBQ Pork Fried Rice [$8.95] | diced OG char siu with organic egg, Chinese broccoli, green onions
The fried rice effectively showcased the sweet-savory nature of the BBQ pork, while hoisin sauce added an extra oomph to things. Also appreciated was the aggressive presentation of the eggs here, as well as the bitter notes from the greens. I think I even detected some xiā mǐ, which was a pleasant, briny surprise. Unfortunately, I wasn't a fan of the rice's texture, which was too soft and clumpy.



Crispy Shrimp Dumplings [$8.00] | shrimp and bamboo shoots with chili-soy sauce (6)
I was curious about the dumplings as well. The shrimp conveyed an elegant sort of salinity that really made me think of dim sum, and I liked the crispness of the wrappers, too. Sadly though, I was not provided with any of the advertised chili-soy sauce.



Build Your Own Box [$16.50] | choose 3 items
Porchetta Crackling | seven spice Duroc pork belly, triple roasted
Grandma's Curry Beef Stew | 6-hour braised Prime beef brisket, potatoes, onion, tomatoes, coconut milk
Mapo Eggplant | braised shiitake, chili oil, ginger, scallion, eggplant
To conclude the meal, I went for another combination box so that I could finish trying the three remaining proteins:

• A definite standout was Lee's take on sīu yuhk, a porchetta-inspired preparation that's supposedly marinated for a full day and triple-roasted using both an oven and a smoker. The process made for a thoroughly enjoyable eating experience. I loved the sheer crunch, salt, and smoke of the skin here, as well as how that played with both the fat and the juicy, tender lean. There was a pretty remarkable depth of savor present, and it all contrasted beautifully with the zippiness of that chimichurri. A must-get.
• Next up was a beef curry inspired by a version that the Chef's grandmother used to make. It had all the cozy, comforting flavors you'd expect, along with a building spice and palpable potency, while the root veggies added a homey heft to the mix. Scallions were a much-appreciated addition on top, and overall, the stew was pretty great when eaten with the included rice.
• Naturally, I couldn't resist ordering this vegan take on mapo tofu. I found the eggplant smoky and satisfying, and the kitchen was able to develop its flavors rather fully. However, though the dish did possess a noticeable heat, I found it lacking in the mala tingle that I was looking for.

It'd been nearly four years since my last visit to the Spring Arcade Building, but RiceBox did a nice job in welcoming me back. The char siu and siu yuk were the favorites tonight, and in fact, they were among the best versions I've had. Given how well this place has been received, I wonder if the Lees might open up other locations. RiceBox seems like a replicable concept, and I certainly wouldn't mind an outpost closer to me.