Yagi Japanese Restaurant (Anaheim, CA)

Yagi Japanese Restaurant
6324 E Santa Ana Canyon Rd, Anaheim, CA 92807
714.974.4512
yagijapanese.wixsite.com/yagi/
Sat 08/28/2021, 07:35p-09:15p





I was recently looking for a new sushi restaurant to try in Orange County, and after ruminating on the subject for a bit, settled on Yagi (八木) over in Anaheim Hills. The place was opened in September 2014 by Chef Nobuyoshi Yagi (who came here from another sushi spot in the area) and his wife Yumiko Morikawa. Yagi-san, for some reason, wasn't behind the bar tonight, but was back in the kitchen, so serving us this evening was an itamae by the name of Satoshi, who actually started his sushi career at DTLA's Sushi Enya around 2013 before coming here.


Here's a view of Yagi from the entrance. The space was previously home to Kagura, which was helmed by Chef Atsushi Yokoyama (now running things at Hanare), and the decor hasn't really changed much at all from those days. Before that, the storefront was occupied by the longstanding Hamayu, which was originally opened circa 1985 by Yoshiyuki Yuuki before being sold to a series of Korean and Chinese owners in the early/mid 2000s.



The menu at Yagi is pretty typical and fairly expansive, and includes "creative" rolls, which usually isn't a good sign. However, we were here for the omakase sushi (おまかせ寿司) option, priced at an affordable $65 a head. To drink, there's a decent sake list, as well as a small selection of beer, shochu, and wine. Corkage, meanwhile, was a not-too-bad $25 per bottle. Click for larger versions.


Our seats at the sushi bar were already set by the time we arrived. The place setting was about as simple as it gets.


Upon being seated, we were quickly provided with the requisite ginger and wasabi, the latter of which was largely left untouched given that, at least for omakase purposes, all the sushi we received came pre-seasoned (which is the way I strongly prefer).


1: Golden Eye Snapper (金目鯛 / Kinmedai)
Up first was one of my favorite fishes for nigiri: splendid alfonsino. The cut was smartly seared and gratifyingly textured, while the rice ended up being very apparent on the finish. And as for said rice, it was a bit lacking in delicacy, but certainly did the job.


2: Yellow Jack (シマアジ / Shima Aji)
Striped jack showed of a supple, satisfying consistency, while its considerable amount of umami was well matched with the zing of what I believe was ginger on top. Do note that this was served alongside the kinmedai above, and this doubling up of sushi was a common theme tonight, one that I would've preferred not to have seen; I'm a firm believer that sushi should be served one-by-one if you're sitting at the bar.


3: Red Snapper (鯛 / Tai)
This tender shard of seabream had a burst of citrus and salt up front that I really enjoyed. This then led to a refined brine and a touch of shiso on the back end.


4: Seabass w/Truffle (スズキトリュフのせ / Suzuki Truffle Nose)
Sea bass had a nice bit of chew to it, while its inherent savoriness worked hand-in-hand with the earthiness of the truffle. It all meshed together rather well.


To drink, I brought along a bottle of Burgundy, the 2013 Au Pied du Mont Chauve Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Chenevottes. The wine had a nose of tropical and stone fruits, but supported by a bit of barnyard and butter. I found the palate on the richer, lusher side, its notes of citrus and pear joined by some funk and a spine of minerality.


5: Amberjack (かんばち / Kanpachi)
The amberjack had a slight "crunch" that I enjoyed, while a dab of sour-spicy yuzukosho complemented the fish's natural sweetness.


6: Black Cod (銀鱈 / Gindara)
The sablefish ate as soft and silky as I expected, its lusciousness offset just enough by the smokiness present.


7: Blue Fin Tuna (本鮪 / Hon Maguro)
Spanish bluefin conveyed elements of minerality and umami up front that led to a distinct fruity character toward the rear.


8: Blue Fin Toro (本鮪トロ / Hon Maguro Toro)
Meanwhile, the belly part of the tuna demonstrated a restrained level of fat and oil, one backed up by a marked sweetness.


9: King Salmon (キングサーモン)
New Zealand salmon was surprisingly light in terms of taste, though it did get more and more savory as I chewed. Great counterpoint from the scallions here.


10: Sweet Shrimp (甘エビ / Amaebi)
Sweet shrimp were indeed as sweet as advertised, their creamy, sticky nature evened out by a persistent wasabi heat and a smidge of minerality on the finish. Unfortunately, the shrimp heads came out way too cold, and were thus a bit stale, lacking in their signature crispiness.


11: Scallop w/ Uni (帆立雲丹のせ / Hotate Uni Nose)
Next up was a marriage of mineral-driven Santa Barbara sea urchin and supple cuts of scallop, accented by minty shiso and piquant hits of wasabi. I think I would've preferred to have experienced these two neta separately, though.


12: Negi Toro Hand Roll (ねぎとろ手巻き / Negitoro Temaki)
This handroll was certainly a winner thanks to its spot-on interplay between the fatty tuna and the unmistakable zestiness of green onion. Great umami backing from the nori, too.


Halibut Fin (縁側 / Engawa) [$3.50]
We ended up adding on a few courses to our meal at this point. Up first was the fluke fin, another favorite. I found it surprisingly luxurious, with an unexpectedly deep savor and a lovely smoke. The rice worked well here for contrast, as did the kukiwasabi up top.


Nodoguro (ノドクロ) [$9.00]
Blackthroat seaperch is my all-time favorite fish (apparently it's Satoshi-san's as well), and I was happy to see it on the menu, since it's generally only offered at higher-end establishments. The bite was just what I expected, the akamutsu's elegant presentation of richness and fat smartly paired against bitter char and the moderating effect of the rice. Another standout.


Egg Omelette (玉子 / Tamago) [$2.50]
The traditional closer of egg went in a generally cool, sweet direction, though with an undercurrent of salinity.


13: Panna Cotta (パンナコッタ)
Dessert duties were handled by a version of panna cotta that blended green tea bitterness with what seemed like the sugariness of condensed milk.

I enjoyed a nice meal at Yagi, which had actually occupied a row on my spreadsheet of restaurants to try for a few years now. Most of the food was on point, and I'd say the prices are pretty reasonable for the quality. The disappointing fried shrimp head was a major misstep though, and as mentioned above, the shari could've been a bit more sophisticated. Overall, Yagi seems like a place that can appeal to both sushi veterans and novices alike, and works as a solid neighborhood-y type of spot.

The Airliner (Los Angeles, CA)

The Airliner Bar
2419 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90031
323.987.0444
www.airlinerla.com
Sun 08/15/2021, 08:50p-11:15p





I recently put up a post about The Varnish, and during my visit there, I asked my bartender, Greg, for any bar recommendations he might have. He rattled off a number of names, but one that caught my attention was The Airliner, a "new" spot in Lincoln Heights that actually has quite a bit of history behind it.

Depending on the source, the place has been around since either 1915, 1923, or 1926, and apparently served as the lounge to a steakhouse next door. For most of the 20th century, The Airliner appears to have been a bar, sometimes with a musical component, though it reportedly turned into a catering business called Airliner Restaurant from around the 1990s to the early 2000s. However, at the end of 2005, Luis Quiroz and Danny Vega re-opened the space as a music venue (originally focused on Latin jazz), one probably most known for hosting Low End Theory for numerous years. In February 2017, The Airliner was revamped by the Bar Rescue team (though the episode aired in July 2018), but that wasn't enough to keep things going, as the business was put up for sale a year later

Enter Monica Blair and Sean Kelly, who come from the aerospace and entertainment worlds, respectively (though Kelly was also one of the partners behind Town Pizza in Highland Park). In July 2018, the two formed Moonshiners LLC to purchase The Airliner, and formally took over in August 2019. They closed the bar for a few months in order to remodel, then re-opened on January 24th, 2020. Unfortunately, as a result of the pandemic, the team had to shut down soon after the debut, but were able to come back for a bit from the start of October to the end of November last year. The Airliner's latest grand re-opening was on July 16th, just one day after my visit to The Varnish.

Meanwhile, Blair and Kelly have brought on GM Raul Pool to manage the bar on a day-to-day basis. The Echo Park native is a new hire, and was actually running things over at Lowboy until June this year. Before that, he served Bar Director roles at both Mi Corazon in Los Feliz and Spread Mediterranean Kitchen in Downtown. However, serving me tonight was one Zachary Duke, who hails from South Pasadena. He also comes from Lowboy, and previously worked at Modern Times in DTLA and The San Fernando in Glendale, among other spots.


Here we see The Airliner's main bar, which features an undulating copper top and some lovely Craftsman-esque woodwork. The bar's largely original from what I hear, though it's certainly been heavily refurbished, while that Stacy Smith mural behind the banquettes is newly installed. There's also an upstairs space (previously known as the Mile High Club) with a stage and separate bar that's meant for events and whatnot.


Pictured above is The Airliner's menu. Drink-wise, you get a short-but-intriguing cocktail list put together by Pool, along with some decent beer and wine options. In terms of food, there's a small selection of slightly elevated, bar-appropriate fare. The food menu was initially crafted by Gabriel Cappelli (The Edmon, Re Creo Supper Club, The Lost Knight, Saint Martha, The Dressing Room), but it's not clear who's in charge of the kitchen currently. There's also a separate happy hour menu from what I understand, and the team is also looking to add brunch. Click for a larger version.


Suede "Yes, Lawd" [$12.00] | Gin, Chareau Aloe, Cantaloupe, Lemon, Rhubarb Bitters
Duke recommended that I choose the Suede as my first cocktail, and he knew what he was talking about. The drink showed off a delightful melon sweetness, supported by distinct botanical notes, while the aloe imparted an overarching floral layer that really served as the perfect finishing touch.


Sicilian Meatballs [$9.00] | sweet and spicy Sicilian meatballs, marinara, pecorino
My balls were much bigger than expected, and conveyed a cozy, homey flavor profile with a touch of herbaceousness to perk things up. I also appreciated the slight heat in the dish, while the marinara imparted an enveloping sweet-tartness.


Better That It's Ever Been "Churning Butter" [$12.00] | Butter Washed Wheatley Vodka, Sweet Potato, Lemon, Grapefruit Bitters, Grapefruit Oil
A lot of you probably don't typically order vodka cocktails, but this is one to get. I found it wonderfully smooth and buttery, its foundation of sweet spice offset by just the right amount of grapefruit-fueled bitterness.


Tiny Deviled Eggs [$7.00] | with crispy ham, spicy tomato jam, topped with microgreens
I usually have a difficult time turning down deviled eggs, and tonight was no exception to that rule. The quail eggs were just what I expected, but what was surprising was the sweet-heat of that tomato jam, while the ham imparted both salt and crunch.


Kale Tabbouleh Salad [$11.00] | with couscous, lentils, chopped seasonal vegetable and tahini vinaigrette
The salad was a surprise standout. I really enjoyed the back-and-froth between the bitter, earthy kale and the relatively subdued nature of the couscous-lentil combo, all while the dish was punctuated by zesty onion and refreshing cuts of tomato. The various elements just came together effortlessly.


Off Broadway "This Cocktail Was Too Good For The Main Stage" [$12.00] | Tequila, Lo Fi Amaro, Chinola Passion Fruit, Lime, Chile de Arbol, Orange Oil
I was in the mood for some agave for my third cocktail. With this one, I got a sharp vegetal heat up front, combined with a floral, tropical sweetness. This then led to a bitter, almost minty character from the amaro I'm guessing.


At this point, I decided to check out the patio in the back, which I have to say was surprisingly inviting. It'd be a great spot for the aforementioned brunch that the team is thinking about instituting.


Airliner Burger [$14.00 + $1.00 for extra cheese] | 6oz chuck/brisket blend beef patty, lettuce, tomato, onions, pickles, cheese, house aioli, served with French fries
I felt compelled to try the signature hamburger of course, and found it to be a proper old school expression. I loved the patty's strong sear and smoke, while the duo of Gruyère and cheddar melded seamlessly with the meat. At the same time, you had all the veggies, which imparted contrast in both taste and texture. Now as for the fries, they were on point; think robustly-seasoned, with crispy exteriors and soft, almost creamy insides.


Bermuda Triangle "Search Party" [$12.00] | Copalli Rum, Copalli Cacao, Combier Blue, Lime, Coconut Cream, Chocolate Bitters, Mint, Soda
This festive-looking cocktail went down rather easily with its base of sugary coconut and light chocolate, all evened out by touches of bitterness and herb.


Grilled Cheese [$10.00] | blend of Italian and French cheeses on sourdough bread
The Airliner's take on grilled cheese featured thick, crispy, well-griddled cuts of sourdough backed by a healthy amount of lush, gooey cheese.


Fried Chicken Sandwich [$13.00] | buttermilk bourbon marinated chicken with housemade jalapeno slaw and red pepper aioli, served with French fries
I just couldn't resist the fried chicken for my last dish. The bird arrived decently tender and juicy, as was imbued with a distinct sweet heat. I quite liked the counterpoint provided by the bright, crunchy slaw, while the aioli helped bind all the various ingredients together.


Red Eye "Cold Brewed Airlines" [$12.00] | Wheatley Vodka, Mr. Black Cold Brew Liqueur, Banana, Toasted Pecan Bitters, Vanilla Cream, Nutmeg
With the food dispensed with, I moved back to the bar and enjoyed Pool's riff on the classic White Russian. The drink was delicious, with bittersweet, cocoa-tinged coffee flavors all over the place, joined by a bit of sweet-spiciness, a smidge of citrus, and very subdued banana. I always like to end with dessert, and since there was no actual dessert on the menu, this cocktail fit the bill nicely.

I'm glad that Greg at The Varnish told me about this spot, since I had a lovely time here. I was pretty impressed with the cocktails, and the food met the mark too, while the overall level of hospitality from Zach and Raul was certainly commendable as well. The place seems to have the right things going for it, and if I lived in the area, I could easily see The Airliner becoming one of my go-to bars.

River Twice (Philadelphia, PA)

River Twice Restaurant
1601 E Passyunk Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19148
267.457.3698
www.rivertwicerestaurant.com
Thu 08/05/2021, 09:00p-11:10p





For the third and final dinner of my recent Philly trip, I opted for River Twice. I don't remember how I found out about the place, but it seemed interesting to me, so I decided to give it a shot. Situated in the East Passyunk Crossing neighborhood, this is a modern American restaurant that aims to highlight the bounty of the Mid-Atlantic region. It opened back in October 2019, and is led by Chef/Owner Randy Rucker.

About the Chef: Randall Rucker was born and raised in Tomball, Texas. He first got interested in food thanks to his mother Bootsie (a.k.a. Belinda), but after graduating from Tomball High School in 1997, he didn't initially decide to pursue a culinary career. Rather, he studied at Texas Tech University for two years before dropping out and enrolling at Johnson & Wales (c/o 2001). During this period, he relocated to California to work at restaurants in Big Sur and Napa Valley, with chefs such as Craig von Foerster and Matt Millea. He also underwent stages at Tru in Chicago and Clio in Boston. Rucker then returned to Texas, settling in Houston, where he helped run things at John Sheely's Riviera Grill and Mockingbird Bistro. In addition, he served as sous at Mark's American Cuisine and worked briefly in the same role at Zoot in Austin, then came back to Houston to cook with Tim Keating at Quattro at the Four Seasons.

At the end of 2005, the Chef opened his first restaurant in Houston in partnership with his mom. Called Laidback Manor, the place was perhaps overly ambitious, and closed in September 2006. Rucker's next step was a gig at Cordúa (now Churrascos) restaurant group, and then an underground dinner series entitled Tenacity Supper Club. The was followed by an EC role at the longstanding Rainbow Lodge in Houston. He was there from 2008 to 2009, but even with that short tenure, was able to garner a four-star review from the Houston Chronicle. At this point, Rucker went back to Tomball and teamed up with his mother again to open Bootsie's Heritage Cafe in February 2010. For his efforts, he received semifinalist status for both James Beard's "Best Chef: Southwest" and "Best New Restaurant" awards in 2011, but the eatery shut down in July that year. A companion tasting menu restaurant for Bootsie's called Connate fell through, and in April 2012, so did plans for the related Conãt in Houston.

In 2014, Rucker started work on Bramble, which opened in 2015 in Houston's tony Tanglewood neighborhood, but shuttered the following year. Fall 2016 saw him relocate to West Tisbury on Martha's Vineyard, where he was given the Exec Chef position at Mary and Jackson Kenworth's State Road. He subsequently became Culinary Director for that restaurant as well as its sister eatery Beach Road in Vineyard Haven. This lasted until early 2018, when he started an Executive Chef job at Spicer Mansion in Mystic, Connecticut. However, that position also didn't last long, and in fall 2018, Rucker began conceptualizing River Twice. He got married to girlfriend Amanda Highbloom in January 2019, and the two soon moved back to her hometown of Philadelphia. Back in Philly, the couple partnered up with Amanda's dad, Larry Highbloom, and they were able to open River Twice that October. In July 2020, Philadelphia magazine bestowed "Best New American Restaurant" honors, while Rucker landed a "Best Chef" nod this July from the same publication.

Running the kitchen tonight was Rucker's second-in-command: Sous Chef Kevin McWilliams. A South Jersey native, he began his restaurant career at the age of 15. He eventually relocated to Philly to attend the University of the Arts, and cooked at various places throughout college. After graduating in June 2009 with a BFA in photography, he did pursue art, but the kitchen drew him back in. In 2016, McWilliams became sous at Cafe Lift under Josiah Richmond, and after a year or so, moved over to Fishtown's Kensington Quarters (part of the same hospitality group), where he cooked for both Damon Menapace and his replacement, Katie Maley. 2018 saw him work with Eric Leveillee at Marigold Kitchen, but the restaurant shuttered at the end of January 2019. McWilliams' final step before River Twice was a return to Kensington Quarters (now under the control of Matt Harper) in March of 2019.


River Twice takes over the former home of Izumi, a Japanese spot that managed to last from November 2008 to April 2019. The same basic layout of the restaurant remains, but the space has been revamped by Amanda Rucker and now sports a rather neutral color palate. Guests can be seated and both tables and at the kitchen counter, and there's outdoor seating available as well.


As for the menu, you get a refreshingly compact selection of dishes that changes often, though I opted for the seven-course tasting menu, priced at a reasonable $85 a head. Drink-wise, there's a small but fairly interesting wine list rounded out by a handful of beers and ciders; do note, though, that this was originally a BYOB place. Click for a larger version.


1: Ora King Salmon Handroll | yuzu, ginger, pea greens, shiso leaf
My meal got off to a delicious but unexpected start thanks to this hand roll. I loved the interplay between the fatty cuts of fish and the zestiness of those pea shoots, all while there was this undercurrent of sweet-n-sour going on. Also key was the umami imparted by the nori, though I would've liked the seaweed crispier.


2: Little Sweetie Melon | sunflower seed salsa macha & trout roe
Thin-cut shards of cantaloupe showed off a delectably floral sweetness that matched up surprisingly well with the sheer saltiness of the roe. The nutty salsa, meanwhile, almost acted like a tempering element.


3: Raw New Jersey Tilefish | mushroom shoyu, jalapeno & cucumber
Tilefish arrived with a satisfying chew, its softly saline flavors augmented by the savoriness of the shoyu. Cucumber provided a necessary brightness to the dish, and I liked the heat imparted by the jalapeños, though I could've used more of it.


To drink, I decided to go with a bottle of the Arkansas Black, Ploughman Farm Cider [$40]. This one was on the dry, light, refreshing side, with a crisp minerality backed by just enough fruit.


4: San Diego Sea Urchin | piedmont beans, ham hock consomme
Next up was easily one of the most interesting presentations of uni I've ever had. What struck me first was the unabashedly deep, savory, Japanese-y flavors of the consommé, which was complemented by the tangy, crunchy nature of the chopped-up beans. The urchin thus served as the finishing touch to the dish, providing a substantial sweetness that softened and integrated all the other components present.


5: Gently Seared Bluefin Tuna | heirloom tomatoes, thai basil & fermented tomato water
Garnet-hued cuts of tuna arrived dense and meaty, their considerable heft meshing beautifully with both the freshness and funk of the tomato water. The Thai basil was key too, providing a herbaceousness that uplifted the dish. Pretty neat.


6: Beef Strip Loin | miso jus, locally-foraged chanterelles, baby squash, red veined sorrel
The strip steak was a winner as well. I loved the beef's sear and well-placed hits of salt, while its deep, savory flavors were boosted by the earthiness of the miso. Meanwhile, the nicely charred mushrooms and squash worked for contrast.


Tartare of Beef [$18.00] | white miso, cherries preserved in ginger vinegar & pa pecorino
I have a hard time saying no to a beef tartar, so I ended up supplementing my meal with an order. I'm glad I did, since this ended up being one of the most intriguing versions I've tried. The crux here really was that miso, which infused the meat with this sweet, nutty, barnyard-y character. It was fairly intense, so the saltiness of the cheese actually worked as a moderating force to keep everything in check.


7: Financier | elderflower, blueberries, fromage blanc
Dessert came in the form of this gritty, corn-based financier. The cake worked well as a base for the back-and-forth between that creamy fresh cheese and those tart-ish blueberries, the whole thing punctuated by a touch of herbiness.

River Twice served me some of the most novel cuisine I've had in Philadelphia, and there were certainly flavor combinations that I'd never encountered prior. I think there's even a bit of a fermentation focus going on. It's pretty obvious that the team is really trying to push the City's food scene in a forward direction, which is great, and it seems at least a subset of diners are responding positively. Now, if you read the Chef's bio above, you'll know that he has a tendency to open and close restaurants rather quickly, so hopefully that won't be an issue in the future here. I'd like to assume that he's mellowed out with age.