Barra Santos (Los Angeles, CA)
Barra Santos Restaurant
1215 Cypress Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90065
www.barrasantosla.com
Mon 07/01/2024, 08:55p-10:40p
There are precious few Portuguese dining options here in the Southland, so when Barra Santos grand-opened on March 24th last year, the place definitely piqued my interest. The Cypress Park eatery is part of Holly Fox and Adam Weisblatt's Last Word Hospitality, a company probably most known for Found Oyster, but which is also the driving force behind Same Same Thai and Queen St, among other spots. Barra Santos is spearheaded by Luso-American Mike Santos, with Chef Melissa Lopez in charge of the food, and has been quite well-received, even snagging a "Best New Restaurant" semifinalist nod from James Beard back in January this year.
About the Partners: Michael Santos hails from Portugal, and came to the US at the age of five, with his family settling in Rhode Island, a state with a surprisingly high percentage of persons of Portuguese descent. He attended Johnson & Wales University as well as Windward Community College, and eventually made his way to SoCal. In LA, he began bartending at both Tony's Saloon in the Arts District as well as 4100 Bar in Silver Lake, and also worked as a server at Bäco Mercat. In October 2015, Santos joined the team at Norah in WeHo, helping to launch the place as AGM in February 2016. However, he only stayed six months after the opening, and soon transitioned a GM role at Downtown's Brack Shop Tavern, a former Last Word property (it shut down in January 2020). In April 2017, Santos was promoted to Director of Operations for LWH, a role that he continues to hold today.
Melissa López, meanwhile, comes to us from Nogales, AZ, and is a graduate of both the University of Arizona (journalism, c/o 2004) and the International Culinary Center in New York (c/o 2007). In February 2010, she was hired as a line cook at Jonathan Waxman's Italian eatery Barbuto in NYC, and worked her way up to sous and then to CdC. In 2014, she relocated to Southern California and took on a sous chef gig at the ever-popular Bestia, where she became Chef de Cuisine in November 2017, a position she stayed at for two years. In addition to being chef-partner at Barra Santos, López is also in charge of the menu at Shins Pizza next door, another Last Word project debuted in collaboration with Shin Irvin.
Barra Santos occupies a tiny storefront that was previously home to a piñata shop and a bakery. Obviously, the space has been completely transformed, and now sports a cozy, somewhat well-worn look befitting its concept. Shown above is my view from near the leftmost portion of the bar.
The menu here is pleasingly compact, and features pretty prototypical Portuguese fare; be sure to check out the chalkboard specials, too. The beverage program is the responsibility of LWH Wine Director Evelyn Goreshnik (Michael's, Dudley Market, APL, Scopa, Alimento, Petit Trois, Ford's Filling Station), who's put together a Portuguese- and Spanish-leaning wine list and a small array of sherry, madeira, and port. Click for larger versions.
Maria's Bacalhau Fritters [$15.00] | Salt Cod, Potato & Caramelized Onion
Given my love of salt cod, the bolinhos de bacalhau were a must-try, and didn't let me down. The fritters had that crisp-on-the-outside, fluffy-on-the-inside mouthfeel I was looking for, while their toasty, onion-y, salty flavors were perfectly moderated by the incorporation of potato. I didn't mind the balls with a squirt of lemon, either. Cozy, homey, and a promising start.
Bluefin Tuna Crudo [$21.00] | Meyer Lemon, Orange, Olive Oil, Black Pepper
The crudo was another winner, and one of the better versions of the dish I've tried. The tuna had the supple-yet-substantial texture I wanted, and the fish's sweet, savory, briny flavors were beautifully offset by a bevy of salty hits and peppery pricks.
New Caledonia Prawns [$25.00] | Vinho Verde, Garlic, Marash Chili, Parsley
These shrimp were super garlicky aroma-wise, but not nearly as potent taste-wise. Said garlic was joined by elements of earth, herb, and heat, all layered over a backbone of salinity. I wouldn't have minded some bread to sop up the remaining liquid with.
To drink, I went with a bottle of sparkling rosé, the Aphros, 'Pan' Vinhão, Vinho Verde, PT, '14 [$53]. The wine smelled of strawberries commixed with a smidge of stewed plum, while on the palate, think bright and energetic, with lush red stone fruits and touches of floral backed by earth and mineral. This one was quite easy to enjoy, as expected.
Broiled Prawn Heads [$18.00]
The heads of the shrimp above were presented in this next dish. There was an intense, concentrated, buttery brine here, along with boatloads of umami, all supported by hints of heat. It was all rather aggressive, so that toasty, nutty bread on the side was key for evening things out.
Charred Cabbage [$20.00] | White Beans, Garlic Butter, Ibérico Ham Bits
I'm quite the cabbage fan, so this was another dish that I just had to order. And indeed, I was fond of the bitter, smoky char on the veggie, and how that played with those soft, salty, garlicky beans, all while the jamón amped things up even further.
Snap Pea Salad [$19.00]
I'm also a sucker for sugar snap peas, so I was looking forward to this next dish as well. I found the salad properly bright, crisp, and super refreshing, with some great nutty, crunchy components and citrusy overtones. A welcomed respite from all the heavier flavors I was having.
Bifana [$19.00] | Pork Sandwich, Marinated w. Urfa Chili, Paprika & Coriander, Piso Herb Sauce
I was curious about the bifana, not surprisingly, and it didn't disappoint, either. The pork came out juicy and delectably-spiced, and really worked hand-in-hand with that soft, crusty bread, making for a very solid sandwich overall.
Piri Piri Chicken [$22.00] | Confit Whole Leg, Spicy Piri Piri Sauce, Frisée
The evening's final savory was the peri-peri chicken, a tender, succulent preparation of the bird, dutifully enhanced by the mouthwateringly tangy heat of that chili pepper sauce. I liked the contrast offered up by the frisée, too.
Morello Cherry Sorbet + Pedro Ximinez Sherry Float [$7.00 + $4.00]
For dessert, I enjoyed a tart Morello sorbet that actually reminded me a bit of salt-laced suānméi, but with the addition of a dark-toned, raisin-y finish courtesy of that PX.
There are precious few Portuguese restaurants in LA (the only other one that comes to mind is Caldo Verde inside Downtown's Proper hotel), so I'm very happy to have Barra Santos around as an option. The food was pretty much all delicious, and the place features a lovely vibe as well, so I can certainly understand why the spot is so popular. In essence, Barra Santos achieves exactly what it sets out to be.
Following dinner, I wanted to head over to The Varnish for a final drink, since the iconic cocktail den was closing for good on July 3rd. I thought that I was being smart by visiting on a Monday instead of the final day of service, but unfortunately, the place was jam-packed, and I was quoted a three-hour wait to get in, which would put me past the bar's closing time. Given that The Varnish was thus a no-go, I instead enjoyed a couple of libations at Cole's (which was also quite busy).
Big Pink [$15.00] | Cazadores Reposado, Aperol, Blanc Vermouth
My first cocktail didn't seem like a creation that should be named "Big Pink," but nevertheless, it was still quite tasty. I got loads of grapefruit on the nose, while taste-wise, there was a healthy dose of cacao up front, giving way to plenty of agave character, citrus, and a neat bittersweet complexity.
Wolfsbane [$15.00] | Mezcal, Midori, Lemon, Lime, Sugar, Salt
Mezcal and Midori melded unexpectedly well in my second cocktail, the former's smoky, earthy notes marrying easily with the sugariness of the liqueur, with citrus serving as a sort of harmonizing force.
1215 Cypress Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90065
www.barrasantosla.com
Mon 07/01/2024, 08:55p-10:40p
There are precious few Portuguese dining options here in the Southland, so when Barra Santos grand-opened on March 24th last year, the place definitely piqued my interest. The Cypress Park eatery is part of Holly Fox and Adam Weisblatt's Last Word Hospitality, a company probably most known for Found Oyster, but which is also the driving force behind Same Same Thai and Queen St, among other spots. Barra Santos is spearheaded by Luso-American Mike Santos, with Chef Melissa Lopez in charge of the food, and has been quite well-received, even snagging a "Best New Restaurant" semifinalist nod from James Beard back in January this year.
About the Partners: Michael Santos hails from Portugal, and came to the US at the age of five, with his family settling in Rhode Island, a state with a surprisingly high percentage of persons of Portuguese descent. He attended Johnson & Wales University as well as Windward Community College, and eventually made his way to SoCal. In LA, he began bartending at both Tony's Saloon in the Arts District as well as 4100 Bar in Silver Lake, and also worked as a server at Bäco Mercat. In October 2015, Santos joined the team at Norah in WeHo, helping to launch the place as AGM in February 2016. However, he only stayed six months after the opening, and soon transitioned a GM role at Downtown's Brack Shop Tavern, a former Last Word property (it shut down in January 2020). In April 2017, Santos was promoted to Director of Operations for LWH, a role that he continues to hold today.
Melissa López, meanwhile, comes to us from Nogales, AZ, and is a graduate of both the University of Arizona (journalism, c/o 2004) and the International Culinary Center in New York (c/o 2007). In February 2010, she was hired as a line cook at Jonathan Waxman's Italian eatery Barbuto in NYC, and worked her way up to sous and then to CdC. In 2014, she relocated to Southern California and took on a sous chef gig at the ever-popular Bestia, where she became Chef de Cuisine in November 2017, a position she stayed at for two years. In addition to being chef-partner at Barra Santos, López is also in charge of the menu at Shins Pizza next door, another Last Word project debuted in collaboration with Shin Irvin.
Barra Santos occupies a tiny storefront that was previously home to a piñata shop and a bakery. Obviously, the space has been completely transformed, and now sports a cozy, somewhat well-worn look befitting its concept. Shown above is my view from near the leftmost portion of the bar.
The menu here is pleasingly compact, and features pretty prototypical Portuguese fare; be sure to check out the chalkboard specials, too. The beverage program is the responsibility of LWH Wine Director Evelyn Goreshnik (Michael's, Dudley Market, APL, Scopa, Alimento, Petit Trois, Ford's Filling Station), who's put together a Portuguese- and Spanish-leaning wine list and a small array of sherry, madeira, and port. Click for larger versions.
Maria's Bacalhau Fritters [$15.00] | Salt Cod, Potato & Caramelized Onion
Given my love of salt cod, the bolinhos de bacalhau were a must-try, and didn't let me down. The fritters had that crisp-on-the-outside, fluffy-on-the-inside mouthfeel I was looking for, while their toasty, onion-y, salty flavors were perfectly moderated by the incorporation of potato. I didn't mind the balls with a squirt of lemon, either. Cozy, homey, and a promising start.
Bluefin Tuna Crudo [$21.00] | Meyer Lemon, Orange, Olive Oil, Black Pepper
The crudo was another winner, and one of the better versions of the dish I've tried. The tuna had the supple-yet-substantial texture I wanted, and the fish's sweet, savory, briny flavors were beautifully offset by a bevy of salty hits and peppery pricks.
New Caledonia Prawns [$25.00] | Vinho Verde, Garlic, Marash Chili, Parsley
These shrimp were super garlicky aroma-wise, but not nearly as potent taste-wise. Said garlic was joined by elements of earth, herb, and heat, all layered over a backbone of salinity. I wouldn't have minded some bread to sop up the remaining liquid with.
To drink, I went with a bottle of sparkling rosé, the Aphros, 'Pan' Vinhão, Vinho Verde, PT, '14 [$53]. The wine smelled of strawberries commixed with a smidge of stewed plum, while on the palate, think bright and energetic, with lush red stone fruits and touches of floral backed by earth and mineral. This one was quite easy to enjoy, as expected.
Broiled Prawn Heads [$18.00]
The heads of the shrimp above were presented in this next dish. There was an intense, concentrated, buttery brine here, along with boatloads of umami, all supported by hints of heat. It was all rather aggressive, so that toasty, nutty bread on the side was key for evening things out.
Charred Cabbage [$20.00] | White Beans, Garlic Butter, Ibérico Ham Bits
I'm quite the cabbage fan, so this was another dish that I just had to order. And indeed, I was fond of the bitter, smoky char on the veggie, and how that played with those soft, salty, garlicky beans, all while the jamón amped things up even further.
Snap Pea Salad [$19.00]
I'm also a sucker for sugar snap peas, so I was looking forward to this next dish as well. I found the salad properly bright, crisp, and super refreshing, with some great nutty, crunchy components and citrusy overtones. A welcomed respite from all the heavier flavors I was having.
Bifana [$19.00] | Pork Sandwich, Marinated w. Urfa Chili, Paprika & Coriander, Piso Herb Sauce
I was curious about the bifana, not surprisingly, and it didn't disappoint, either. The pork came out juicy and delectably-spiced, and really worked hand-in-hand with that soft, crusty bread, making for a very solid sandwich overall.
Piri Piri Chicken [$22.00] | Confit Whole Leg, Spicy Piri Piri Sauce, Frisée
The evening's final savory was the peri-peri chicken, a tender, succulent preparation of the bird, dutifully enhanced by the mouthwateringly tangy heat of that chili pepper sauce. I liked the contrast offered up by the frisée, too.
Morello Cherry Sorbet + Pedro Ximinez Sherry Float [$7.00 + $4.00]
For dessert, I enjoyed a tart Morello sorbet that actually reminded me a bit of salt-laced suānméi, but with the addition of a dark-toned, raisin-y finish courtesy of that PX.
There are precious few Portuguese restaurants in LA (the only other one that comes to mind is Caldo Verde inside Downtown's Proper hotel), so I'm very happy to have Barra Santos around as an option. The food was pretty much all delicious, and the place features a lovely vibe as well, so I can certainly understand why the spot is so popular. In essence, Barra Santos achieves exactly what it sets out to be.
Following dinner, I wanted to head over to The Varnish for a final drink, since the iconic cocktail den was closing for good on July 3rd. I thought that I was being smart by visiting on a Monday instead of the final day of service, but unfortunately, the place was jam-packed, and I was quoted a three-hour wait to get in, which would put me past the bar's closing time. Given that The Varnish was thus a no-go, I instead enjoyed a couple of libations at Cole's (which was also quite busy).
Big Pink [$15.00] | Cazadores Reposado, Aperol, Blanc Vermouth
My first cocktail didn't seem like a creation that should be named "Big Pink," but nevertheless, it was still quite tasty. I got loads of grapefruit on the nose, while taste-wise, there was a healthy dose of cacao up front, giving way to plenty of agave character, citrus, and a neat bittersweet complexity.
Wolfsbane [$15.00] | Mezcal, Midori, Lemon, Lime, Sugar, Salt
Mezcal and Midori melded unexpectedly well in my second cocktail, the former's smoky, earthy notes marrying easily with the sugariness of the liqueur, with citrus serving as a sort of harmonizing force.
posted by kevinEats at
8:55 PM
1 Comments:
Kevin! It's so great to see you're still blogging up a storm. Will you email me at Cathy.Chaplin@eater.com? I have a question for you! Thank you!
Post a Comment
Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]
<< Home