222 S Hope St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213-935-8500
www.otiumla.com
Thu 08/29/2024, 08:20p-11:35p
One of the latest restaurant closures to hit LA is that of Otium. The spot was opened in late 2015 by Timothy Hollingsworth, about a year after his first LA project, Barrel & Ashes. He then went on to launch Free Play at Banc of California Stadium in October 2018, and a month later, won Netflix's The Final Table cooking competition. Early 2019 saw Hollingsworth revamp the kitchen over at The Hudson in West Hollywood, and in late 2019, there were even talks of a San Francisco eatery by the name of All These Years, but those plans were abandoned once the Chef reopened Otium in June 2021 following a pandemic hiatus. The restaurant seemed to be chugging along, but sadly, announced its closure this August, apparently due to lingering COVID-19 effects and changing DTLA demographics. The last day of service was to be September 8th, so I definitely wanted to make it back here for one final meal.
Inside, things really haven't changed much at all from when the place first opened. It's a lovely space.
Tonight's menu was definitely more compact than it had been in the past, a good thing in my book. Also shown is the cocktail list, beer list, and selection of wines by the glass. Curiously, we were not presented with a wine list, though apparently, the restaurant was offering 50% off bottles priced at $200 or more (with the option to take 'em to go). Click for larger versions.
Ora King Salmon Tartare [$24.00] | Tamaki Rice, Pickled Ginger, Shiso Leaf, Wasabi
Our first dish ate like something that could be plucked off the menu of your favorite sushi spot. We're talking an interplay of classic Japanese flavors, with the sting of that kizami wasabi really tying everything together.
Naan [$9.00] | Vermont Cultured Butter
Otium's iteration of the iconic Indian flatbread was considerably crisper and crustier than most, which I didn't mind, especially when I slathered on that accompanying butter.
Desert Sting [$22.00] | El Tesoro Reposado Tequila. Cobrafire Raisin Eau De Vie. Honey. Fernet Branca Lime.
The evening's first cocktail brought a healthy dosing of smoke and heat and agave right up front, balanced out by a citrusy kick and the sweetness of the honey-brandy duo.
Russet Potato Gnocchi [$28.00] | Parmesan, Truffle
Gnocchi had that supple-yet-substantial mouthfeel I was looking for, and I was certainly a fan of how the cheese integrated into the dish, though I would've liked more truffle character.
Otium Potatoes [$11.00] | Aleppo Pepper, Creme Fraîche
Potatoes were just about perfect due to their spot-on seasoning and hearty-hefty texture, and I loved the levity offered up by that tangy sour cream.
Milk Punch [$16.00] | Ritual N/A Aperitif. Cucumber. Jasmine. Coconut Water. Lemon.
I believe that this was my first time having a non-alcoholic clarified milk punch, and I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised by its depth. Think saline, vegetal, and savory at its core, but never overwhelmingly so thanks to the cocktail's brighter elements.
Spinach Bucatini [$28.00] | Bacon, Clams, Parmesan, Confit Egg Yolk
The bucatini was a crowd-pleaser. I was a fan of the pasta's satisfying chew, and loved the saltiness and crunch of the "bacon bits," all while the egg and cheese imparted the necessary lusciousness.
Street Corn Agnolotti [$33.00] | Chili, Lime, Cotija
This next pasta dish really did recall its elote inspiration. The parcels were gratifying texturally, and did a nice job showing off the sweetness of the corn. The cotija was expertly combined as well, as was this underlying chile-fueled heat, and I liked the tartness imparted by the lime, too.
Isola Bella [$21.00] | Sipsmith London Dry Gin. Clear Creek Douglas Fir. Bitter Bianco. Vermouth. Nutmeg.
This rather clear cocktail met the mark as well. I was a fan of its sweet, nearly candied qualities and how they played off the drink's bittersweet, herbaceous, and astringent nuances.
Wood Oven Roasted Cauliflower [$26.00] | Coconut, Chile, Lime, Candied Peanuts, Cilantro
Cauliflower needed more crunch and more smoke, though I did appreciate how the dish's sweet, coconut-fueled flavors were offset by all the nutty and herby tastes present.
Salmon Creek Pork Chop [$52.00] | Spätzle, Roasted Turnips, Gruyére, Peach Mostarda
The pork wasn't quite as juicy as I'd like, but nevertheless, was another table favorite. I loved the chop's mouthwatering seasoning, which married beautifully with the greens and especially that surprisingly light, bright Spätzle.
Birch Pop [$20.00] | Kikori Japanese Whiskey. Birch. Vanilla. Seltzer.
The night's lone long cocktail was highball-esque, its whiskey base laced with the sweet, fragrant one-two punch of vanilla and birch.
Fatty Fish Collar [$50.00] | Tamaki Rice, Nam Pla, Purple Basil
Salmon collar was indeed as fatty as advertised. Given its smoky potency, that super acidic, funky fish sauce made sense as a counterpoint, while the rice tempered all the strong flavors going on.
Initially, we'd ordered the tomato tart, but were informed that the restaurant had run out of the dish's pastry base. However, our server was kind enough to convince the kitchen to whip up this version using sourdough instead. The back-and-forth between those juicy cuts of tomato and burrata definitely worked, and I liked the contrast provided by the dish's sugary, almost honeyed base as well. The bread, though, was a bit too aggressively crusty in this application, so I can certainly see how this would've been even better had the proper pastry been available.
Little Oceans (Vodka Manhattan) [$22.00] | Mulholland Vodka. Red Vermouth. Cherry Bitters. Maraschino.
The Manhattan is my go-to classic cocktail, but I don't think I've ever had a version of the drink made with vodka before. That's a bit of a shame, since this was pretty great. I was especially smitten by all the floral, bitter notes present and how they coalesced with the heat of the spirit.
Here we see Otium's dessert menu and array of after-dinner libations. Click for larger versions.
Warm Chocolate Tart [$16.00] | Banana Malt Ice Cream, Hazelnut, Bourbon Caramel
In the requisite chocolate dessert, hazelnut and especially banana were crucial in evening out the overt richness of the cacao. I got a nice temperature contrast here, too.
Rum Raisin Ice Cream [$15.00] | Almond Streusel, Pineapple, Caramel, Vanilla Chantilly
Rum-soaked raisins were surprisingly boozy, so the pineapple and whipped cream were really needed for any semblance of balance, while that caramel served as a sugary backbone.
At this point, we were given a pour of the Boal, Madeira, Portugal 1904, from well-known producer D'Oliveira. The nose was just what I was anticipating, bringing forth dusty raisins and other dark-toned aromas of earth and smoke. Taste-wise, I found mature, yet still somehow vivacious dark fruit combined with a palpable acidity, hints of astringency, some surprisingly tropical notes, and a pancake syrup-like richness. Mature but never old-tasting, this wine may have already existed for 120 years, but I feel like it could still outlive me--absolutely lovely.
Lime Sorbet [$12.00] | Jamaica Granite, Satsuma Mandarin, Jicama
This last dessert was on the refreshing, almost bracing side, displaying a bevy of utterly floral, fruity flavors set against a creamy sorbet and a slightly herbaceous edge.
We had a very solid dinner tonight, and I'm sad to see this place go; it's definitely a loss for the Downtown dining scene. As for Tim Hollingsworth's next steps, over the past couple years he's been busy with Chain, which started as a fast food-inspired pop-up in 2022 before morphing into both a permanent spot in Virgil Village back in January and a festival by the name of ChainFest. Otium, meanwhile, might return in another location, perhaps further out west, so I guess we'll have to wait and see.
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