Alimento (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

Alimento Restaurant
1710 Silver Lake Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026
323-928-2888
www.alimentola.com
Mon 09/02/2024, 08:45p-10:50p





I recently posted about Otium's closure, and sadly, the announcement of that shutter was quickly followed by news that Alimento would be coming to an end as well on September 7th, reportedly the victim of lingering pandemic effects, rising inflation, and last year's Hollywood strikes. The restaurant was opened back in June 2014 by Zachary Pollack as the Chef's first solo project after he first made a name for himself at Sotto, launched in 2011 in conjunction with Steve Samson. The Silver Lake spot soon became known for its smart Italian cooking, and I felt that I needed to give the place one last go before it was too late.


Alimento's decor has indeed changed since the restaurant opened, as the space was upgraded to a darker, sleeker aesthetic by the team at Preen, Inc back in 2021. A patio was also added somewhere along the line.


Here we see Alimento's menu for its final week, as well as the restaurant's beer offerings and wine list. Click for larger versions.


Yellowtail Crudo [$19.00] | Sicilian ponzu, almonds
Hamachi crudo is a bit played out by this point, but I have to give Pollack credit here, since this was one of the most interesting versions I've had. The key really was how deftly the nuts juxtaposed against both the briny, fatty nature of the fish and the tartness of the ponzu. And if that wasn't enough, I was also a big fan of the zestiness provided by the veggies, which reminded me of myoga.


To drink, I opted for a bottle of the 2023 Croci "Lubigo" skin contact pet nat Ortrugo, Emilia-Romagna, Italy [$61]. The wine smelled of orchard fruits intertwined with traces of yeasty funk. On the palate, I found the sparkler dry and mineral-forward, its earthiness commingled with tart, apple-like sensations and a touch of an oxidative character.


Chicken Liver Crostone [$16.00] | housemade bread, seasonal mostarda
Alimento's fegato di pollo has been on the menu since the beginning, and for good reason. The liver was a delight, presenting itself as seemingly more "buttery" than most, and was even better when taken with the sour fruit, a pinch of salt, and of course that toasty, smoky bread.


Crispy Polenta Tartines [$14.00] | whipped baccalà, salmon roe, caperberries
Polenta cakes were wonderfully crispy, and really set the stage perfectly for the one-two punch of salt cod and ikura, all while the caper berries imparted a layer of piquancy. A definite favorite of mine tonight.


Albacore Crudo [$17.00] | tomato conserva, pine nuts, basil
Meaty cuts of tuna arrived lightly seared, their savoriness amped up by a tomato conserva. However, the crux here was how the fish paired with the nutty, almost cereal-like notes in the dish, and I was a fan of that lingering herbiness from the basil, too.


Fusilli [$24.00] | clams, smoked butter, serrano chilies, arugula, fennel pollen
Corkscrew pasta featured a satisfying chew, and functioned as a fitting base for the dish's bevy of briny, smoky flavors and creeping heat, all accented by arugula.


Radiatori [$24.00] | braised pork sugo, kale, fennel pollen
In our second pasta dish, radiators showed off a substantial, gratifying bite, and made a bunch of sense when taken with that combo of homey, long-cooked pork, and bitter greens.


Cracked Farro Salad [$16.00] | raw vegetables, sheep's milk feta
The farro salad managed to be a surprise standout. I was impressed by how the grain's nuttiness meshed with all those bright, crunchy veggies and the salty weight of the cheese, making for a refreshing, nearly palate cleansing course.


Spaghetti [$28.00] | Dungeness crab, tomato, basil, bottarga breadcrumbs
Our next pasta was yet another winner. I appreciated how the sweet salinity of the crab was boosted by the mullet roe, while even more crucial were the aromatics imparted by the basil. Meanwhile, the tomato worked to tie it all together.


Grilled Swordfish [$26.00] | parm bagna cauda, gigante beans, braised greens
Swordfish steak arrived with a firm, dense texture and a palpable brine that stood up to the potency of that bagna càuda. At the same time, the beans moderated the heady flavors at play, and I appreciated the sharp, earthy notes from the greens, too.


Gnòc [$26.00] | braised oxtail beef cheek, potato, carrot, bone marrow
The last pasta dish was the homiest of the bunch, with those chewy dumplings marrying seamlessly with the dark, savory bits of braised beef and root veggies, all while there was this herbaceousness that overarched the dish.


Here we see Alimento's selection of desserts and after-dinner beverages. Click for a larger version.


Yuzu Tart [$10.00] | graham cracker, toasted meringue, edible flowers
Our first dessert ended up being comped, probably because we ordered so much for two people. In any case, this was a competent tart, with loads of bright, citrusy flavors tempered by a graham cracker crust and that toasty, smoky meringue.


To go along with the desserts, I requested a pour of the NV Cappelletti "Pasubio," mountain berry amaro, Piedmont, Italy [$15]. Think surprisingly deep, sweet berries at the fore, but with a bitter, herby counterweight to keep things in check.


Almond Polenta Cake [$10.00] | blueberries and clotted cream "salato"
Last up was the polenta cake, which I found rather tasty just by itself, but even better when matched with those dark, sugary berries and crunchy almonds.

This was a pretty spot-on dinner I have to say, which makes it all the more unfortunate that Alimento is no more. There really aren't too many people doing Italian quite like this in LA. If you find yourself craving Zach Pollack's food, it's still available at Cosa Buona, which appears to be safe, for now. Furthermore, the Chef hinted that he might reopen on the westerly side of town, so hopefully that eventually comes to fruition.