Alkimia (Barcelona, Spain)
Alkimia Restaurant
Rda. de Sant Antoni, 41, L'Eixample, 08011 Barcelona, Spain
+34 932 07 61 15
www.alkimia.cat
Fri 10/18/2024, 02:30p-05:00p
Given that I was spending my entire time in Spain in Catalunya, I wanted to dine somewhere dedicated to Catalan cuisine, and after considering a few options, decided upon Alkimia, which also happened to be located super close to my hotel in Sant Antoni. Opened all the way back in 2002, the restaurant is the creation of Jordi Vilà and his wife-slash-business partner Sònia Profitós, and has established itself as one of the places to go for contemporary Catalan dining.
About the Chef: Vilà was born in 1973 in the small town of El Papiol, on the outskirts of Barcelona. He was the youngest of five brothers, and grew up fascinated by food. At age 15, thanks to his father's connections, he landed a summer job at Baixas, a well-known pastry shop in the city, and quickly fell in love with the craft. Vilà subsequently enrolled at Escola Hoteleria Joviat in Manresa in 1989, and following graduation, worked in pastry at Hotel Casa Irene in Arties, where he would meet Profitós. After turning down an opportunity from Oriol Castro (they knew each other from Joviat) to go to Martín Berasategui, he cooked at Jean-Louis Neichel's eponymous Neichel in BCN, but didn't enjoy his time there. Next came stints at Restaurant Joan Piqué in Castell d'Aro and Jean Luc Figueras in Barcelona.
In November 1998, Vilà and Profitós struck out on their own and opened Abrevadero, located in Barcelona's El Poble-Sec neighborhood, but shut the place down a couple years later, with the Chef suffering from burnout. However, he was convinced to give things another go, and thus the couple launched Alkimia in August 2002, at Indústria 79 in the Camp d'en Grassot i Gràcia Nova district. The place was a hit right from the start, and received a Michelin star in 2004, which has been retained ever since. The success of Alkimia allowed the Chef to work on other projects, and in late 2008, he took over the kitchen at the pizza-focused Saltimbocca as well as its fancier dining room called Dopo (though he left the partnership in June 2012). In mid-2009, Vilà took the reins at tapas joint Vivanda, which had been open since 1983, and in September 2011, he did the same at Bar El Velódromo, another tapas place owned by the Moritz brewery.
Moritz also tapped him to run the culinary program at Fábrica Moritz, a historic brewing facility that the company restored and reopened in December 2011. In 2015, the French-Catalan eatery Louis 1856 debuted at the Moritz factory, but was short-lived, though its closure did pave the way for Alkimia to move into the building. Alkimia 2.0 thus bowed in June 2016, smaller in size than the original, but with loftier culinary ambitions. In late 2017, it was joined by Al Kostat, a more casual offering located in an adjacent dining area that was previously known as "Unplugged." The middle of 2019 saw the debut of Mucho Pizzeria with partner Xevi Ramón, and in late 2020, Vilà opened VA de Cuina, a retail/takeout spot at Major de Sarrià 130, just down the street from Vivanda. In September 2023, he helped out with the menu at Vraba, a restaurant from friend Albert Ventura located right on the waterfront, while a second VA de Cuina bowed in November last year at Comte Borrell 54.
Open the door, are you're greeted with a somewhat intimidating staircase leading up to the restaurant proper.
Penned by Carmelo Zappulla and Chu Uroz, Alkimia's aquatic-themed dining room is a lovely place to be. Capacity is a mere 18 people, spread over six tables.
Though Alkimia did offer an à la carte option previously, these days the only way to go is the tasting menu, which is priced at 184€ ($200.08) per person, with an optional wine pairing from Head Sommelier Bernat Vilarrubla Garreta tacking on an additional 115€ ($125.05). Click for a larger version.
Much appreciated was a moist towel presented at the start of my lunch.
Amuse bouche duties were handled by an eel fritter, one with a sophisticated salinity offset by that tomato paste on top.
1: Prawn · almond · caviar
In my first course, raw, supple shrimp exhibited a gentle brine that was augmented by the caviar, with both elements softened by a creamy almond soup.
The head from the prawn above was then presented with a dollop of caviar. The roe conveyed a straightforward saltiness that led to the deeper, earthier nature of the shrimp, which only intensified the more I sucked.
A moist towelette was then provided due to the hands-on nature of the bite above.
To drink, I once again opted for a local sparkling wine: the Recaredo · Reserva Particular Brut Nature Desg. Alkimia · 2004, Xarel·lo, Corpinnat [125€ ($135.93)], disgorged in November 2019. Initial whiffs brought vibrant aromas of yeasty apple cider, while the palate was similarly vivacious, with plenty of orchard fruits rendered in a bright, acidic manner. As the bubbly warmed, it evolved considerably, demonstrating dark, more oxidized, "bruised" apple nuances and a lusher, creamier mouthfeel. Further time even brought elements of brown sugar and caramel. I then decided to put the wine back on ice, which seemingly reenergized it, bringing forth more nutty, citric characteristics that I wasn't getting before. Quite nice.
2: Oyster · egg
A heady, savory oyster soup set the stage for the back-and-forth between actual oyster and soft egg, with the latter really working to moderate the former.
3: Kokotxa · ganxet beans
The hake cheek was a favorite, coming out hearty and gratifying, delicious alone but even better when taken with that racy pil pil sauce and those sublimely creamy, homey beans. It was a winning combination that just made me want to keep eating.
4: Foie escabetxat · figs
The foie gras escabeche was a delight. The liver was cured with what I believe was Grand Marnier, giving it a citrusy twang at first blush, which was soon followed by the signature richness of the offal. At the same time, the fig served as the perfect fruity counterpoint, and I liked the textural contribution from that airy, shattery crisp as well.
5: Squid · black romesco
Given my fondness for squid, it should come as no surprise that this was another standout. The calamar was superb texturally, arriving supple but snappy, and showed off a wonderful smoke to boot. A black garlic-boosted romesco imparted a piquancy to the dish, while just as crucial was the contrasting bitterness of those greens. And of course, I made sure to mop up with that crusty, sweet-ish bread.
6: Turbot · mussels · spinach
The turbot was a winner as well, with its firm-ish, yet nearly gelatinous texture and elegant flavor profile that linked up oh-so swimmingly with the zippiness of spinach sauce.
I was then provided more of the bread from above, this time served with drizzles of fragrant olive oil.
7: Mallorcan tombet
A beautifully caramelized tumbet was a joy texturally thanks to the potato, and also had this apple-like sweetness that meshed well with the darker toned tastes in the dish.
Next came a bonus course, the Chef's so-called "Catalan nigiri," which comprised a fatty slice of tuna belly set atop tender bread and tomato. The potency of the fish really worked hand-in-hand with the tomato's tanginess, all while that bread regulated the flavors at play. A fun, tasty take on a Japanese staple.
8: Lobster · romesco
Lobster was presented in various textures, its sweet salinity marvelously revealed, yet well complemented by the application of romesco.
9: Duck · lettuce · llenega
In my final savory course, duck arrived noticeably fuller-flavored than most. The bird was a smart match to the bright, crunchy lettuce, while the local llenega mushrooms proffered a terrific musk.
With dessert on its way, I requested an appropriate wine to pair, and was subsequently provided a glass of the Viñedos Verticales · Noctiluca · 2023, Moscatel, Sierra de la Axarquia [8€ ($8.70)]. The nose here was gloriously sweet and floral, while taste-wise, I found both tropical and stone fruits, countered by plenty of freshness and acidity.
10: Figs · pistachio · raspberry
It was now time for Head Pastry Chef Aleix Bravo Tomás to shine. In this pre-dessert, tangy, jammy raspberry and figs were set against both pistachio ice cream and airy meringue, making for a bit of a palate-cleansing sensation.
11: Almond · amaretto · coffee
Almond cake was great texturally, and made a bunch of sense with the nutty sweetness of amaretto. Tinges of roasty coffee offered further interest to the dish, while that chocolate bestowed just enough cacao-fueled goodness.
I was then given a complimentary pour of the 2010 Artemis Karamolegos Vinsanto to conclude with. Hailing from the Greek island of Santorini, the dessert wine smelled ultra fragrant, nearly perfume-y, with a distinct raisin-y character. On the tongue, think dried, oxidized fruit, chocolate, and plenty of acidity.
12: White chocolate · passion fruit
A white chocolate tart offered up a gentle sweetness along with a very agreeable crust, while the passion fruit sorbet served as a surprisingly apt counterbalance.
13: Bunyol
Last up was a ball of fried dough filled with warm, luscious vanilla cream.
Here we see the attached dining room used for Al Kostat, cleared out at the end of service.
I really didn't know much about Alkimia or Chef Vilà before coming here, but I have to say that today's lunch was pretty spot-on. The cooking went in a generally straightforward, satisfying direction, but there was also this deliberate, clever, and cultured quality to the food, and overall, the meal did a commendable job showcasing the possibilities of Catalan cuisine. In fact, given the strength of this experience, I feel like I need to check out Al Kostat next time I'm in town.
Rda. de Sant Antoni, 41, L'Eixample, 08011 Barcelona, Spain
+34 932 07 61 15
www.alkimia.cat
Fri 10/18/2024, 02:30p-05:00p
Given that I was spending my entire time in Spain in Catalunya, I wanted to dine somewhere dedicated to Catalan cuisine, and after considering a few options, decided upon Alkimia, which also happened to be located super close to my hotel in Sant Antoni. Opened all the way back in 2002, the restaurant is the creation of Jordi Vilà and his wife-slash-business partner Sònia Profitós, and has established itself as one of the places to go for contemporary Catalan dining.
About the Chef: Vilà was born in 1973 in the small town of El Papiol, on the outskirts of Barcelona. He was the youngest of five brothers, and grew up fascinated by food. At age 15, thanks to his father's connections, he landed a summer job at Baixas, a well-known pastry shop in the city, and quickly fell in love with the craft. Vilà subsequently enrolled at Escola Hoteleria Joviat in Manresa in 1989, and following graduation, worked in pastry at Hotel Casa Irene in Arties, where he would meet Profitós. After turning down an opportunity from Oriol Castro (they knew each other from Joviat) to go to Martín Berasategui, he cooked at Jean-Louis Neichel's eponymous Neichel in BCN, but didn't enjoy his time there. Next came stints at Restaurant Joan Piqué in Castell d'Aro and Jean Luc Figueras in Barcelona.
In November 1998, Vilà and Profitós struck out on their own and opened Abrevadero, located in Barcelona's El Poble-Sec neighborhood, but shut the place down a couple years later, with the Chef suffering from burnout. However, he was convinced to give things another go, and thus the couple launched Alkimia in August 2002, at Indústria 79 in the Camp d'en Grassot i Gràcia Nova district. The place was a hit right from the start, and received a Michelin star in 2004, which has been retained ever since. The success of Alkimia allowed the Chef to work on other projects, and in late 2008, he took over the kitchen at the pizza-focused Saltimbocca as well as its fancier dining room called Dopo (though he left the partnership in June 2012). In mid-2009, Vilà took the reins at tapas joint Vivanda, which had been open since 1983, and in September 2011, he did the same at Bar El Velódromo, another tapas place owned by the Moritz brewery.
Moritz also tapped him to run the culinary program at Fábrica Moritz, a historic brewing facility that the company restored and reopened in December 2011. In 2015, the French-Catalan eatery Louis 1856 debuted at the Moritz factory, but was short-lived, though its closure did pave the way for Alkimia to move into the building. Alkimia 2.0 thus bowed in June 2016, smaller in size than the original, but with loftier culinary ambitions. In late 2017, it was joined by Al Kostat, a more casual offering located in an adjacent dining area that was previously known as "Unplugged." The middle of 2019 saw the debut of Mucho Pizzeria with partner Xevi Ramón, and in late 2020, Vilà opened VA de Cuina, a retail/takeout spot at Major de Sarrià 130, just down the street from Vivanda. In September 2023, he helped out with the menu at Vraba, a restaurant from friend Albert Ventura located right on the waterfront, while a second VA de Cuina bowed in November last year at Comte Borrell 54.
Open the door, are you're greeted with a somewhat intimidating staircase leading up to the restaurant proper.
Penned by Carmelo Zappulla and Chu Uroz, Alkimia's aquatic-themed dining room is a lovely place to be. Capacity is a mere 18 people, spread over six tables.
Though Alkimia did offer an à la carte option previously, these days the only way to go is the tasting menu, which is priced at 184€ ($200.08) per person, with an optional wine pairing from Head Sommelier Bernat Vilarrubla Garreta tacking on an additional 115€ ($125.05). Click for a larger version.
Much appreciated was a moist towel presented at the start of my lunch.
Amuse bouche duties were handled by an eel fritter, one with a sophisticated salinity offset by that tomato paste on top.
1: Prawn · almond · caviar
In my first course, raw, supple shrimp exhibited a gentle brine that was augmented by the caviar, with both elements softened by a creamy almond soup.
The head from the prawn above was then presented with a dollop of caviar. The roe conveyed a straightforward saltiness that led to the deeper, earthier nature of the shrimp, which only intensified the more I sucked.
A moist towelette was then provided due to the hands-on nature of the bite above.
To drink, I once again opted for a local sparkling wine: the Recaredo · Reserva Particular Brut Nature Desg. Alkimia · 2004, Xarel·lo, Corpinnat [125€ ($135.93)], disgorged in November 2019. Initial whiffs brought vibrant aromas of yeasty apple cider, while the palate was similarly vivacious, with plenty of orchard fruits rendered in a bright, acidic manner. As the bubbly warmed, it evolved considerably, demonstrating dark, more oxidized, "bruised" apple nuances and a lusher, creamier mouthfeel. Further time even brought elements of brown sugar and caramel. I then decided to put the wine back on ice, which seemingly reenergized it, bringing forth more nutty, citric characteristics that I wasn't getting before. Quite nice.
2: Oyster · egg
A heady, savory oyster soup set the stage for the back-and-forth between actual oyster and soft egg, with the latter really working to moderate the former.
3: Kokotxa · ganxet beans
The hake cheek was a favorite, coming out hearty and gratifying, delicious alone but even better when taken with that racy pil pil sauce and those sublimely creamy, homey beans. It was a winning combination that just made me want to keep eating.
4: Foie escabetxat · figs
The foie gras escabeche was a delight. The liver was cured with what I believe was Grand Marnier, giving it a citrusy twang at first blush, which was soon followed by the signature richness of the offal. At the same time, the fig served as the perfect fruity counterpoint, and I liked the textural contribution from that airy, shattery crisp as well.
5: Squid · black romesco
Given my fondness for squid, it should come as no surprise that this was another standout. The calamar was superb texturally, arriving supple but snappy, and showed off a wonderful smoke to boot. A black garlic-boosted romesco imparted a piquancy to the dish, while just as crucial was the contrasting bitterness of those greens. And of course, I made sure to mop up with that crusty, sweet-ish bread.
6: Turbot · mussels · spinach
The turbot was a winner as well, with its firm-ish, yet nearly gelatinous texture and elegant flavor profile that linked up oh-so swimmingly with the zippiness of spinach sauce.
I was then provided more of the bread from above, this time served with drizzles of fragrant olive oil.
7: Mallorcan tombet
A beautifully caramelized tumbet was a joy texturally thanks to the potato, and also had this apple-like sweetness that meshed well with the darker toned tastes in the dish.
Next came a bonus course, the Chef's so-called "Catalan nigiri," which comprised a fatty slice of tuna belly set atop tender bread and tomato. The potency of the fish really worked hand-in-hand with the tomato's tanginess, all while that bread regulated the flavors at play. A fun, tasty take on a Japanese staple.
8: Lobster · romesco
Lobster was presented in various textures, its sweet salinity marvelously revealed, yet well complemented by the application of romesco.
9: Duck · lettuce · llenega
In my final savory course, duck arrived noticeably fuller-flavored than most. The bird was a smart match to the bright, crunchy lettuce, while the local llenega mushrooms proffered a terrific musk.
With dessert on its way, I requested an appropriate wine to pair, and was subsequently provided a glass of the Viñedos Verticales · Noctiluca · 2023, Moscatel, Sierra de la Axarquia [8€ ($8.70)]. The nose here was gloriously sweet and floral, while taste-wise, I found both tropical and stone fruits, countered by plenty of freshness and acidity.
10: Figs · pistachio · raspberry
It was now time for Head Pastry Chef Aleix Bravo Tomás to shine. In this pre-dessert, tangy, jammy raspberry and figs were set against both pistachio ice cream and airy meringue, making for a bit of a palate-cleansing sensation.
11: Almond · amaretto · coffee
Almond cake was great texturally, and made a bunch of sense with the nutty sweetness of amaretto. Tinges of roasty coffee offered further interest to the dish, while that chocolate bestowed just enough cacao-fueled goodness.
I was then given a complimentary pour of the 2010 Artemis Karamolegos Vinsanto to conclude with. Hailing from the Greek island of Santorini, the dessert wine smelled ultra fragrant, nearly perfume-y, with a distinct raisin-y character. On the tongue, think dried, oxidized fruit, chocolate, and plenty of acidity.
12: White chocolate · passion fruit
A white chocolate tart offered up a gentle sweetness along with a very agreeable crust, while the passion fruit sorbet served as a surprisingly apt counterbalance.
13: Bunyol
Last up was a ball of fried dough filled with warm, luscious vanilla cream.
Here we see the attached dining room used for Al Kostat, cleared out at the end of service.
I really didn't know much about Alkimia or Chef Vilà before coming here, but I have to say that today's lunch was pretty spot-on. The cooking went in a generally straightforward, satisfying direction, but there was also this deliberate, clever, and cultured quality to the food, and overall, the meal did a commendable job showcasing the possibilities of Catalan cuisine. In fact, given the strength of this experience, I feel like I need to check out Al Kostat next time I'm in town.
posted by kevinEats at
2:30 PM
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