Estimar (Barcelona, Spain)
Estimar Restaurant
Carrer de Sant Antoni dels Sombrerers, 3, Ciutat Vella, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
+34 932 68 91 97
www.restaurante-estimar.com
Sat 10/19/2024, 08:30p-11:25p
During my time in Barcelona, I definitely wanted to have a meal at a proper marisquería, and after conducting some research, decided on Estimar. Located in the neighborhood of Sant Pere, Santa Caterina i la Ribera, the place opened back in 2016, and has since established itself as a top spot in BCN for seafood, so I was certainly eager to check it out. The restaurant is the brainchild of elBulli alum Chef Rafa Zafra, in partnership with Ricardo Acquista (a colleague from the elBullihotel days) and Anna Gotanegra (his wife, who also represents the fifth generation of seafood supplier Pescadors de Roses). The three actually form Rianra group, and have worked on numerous other projects together.
About the Chef: Juan Rafael Zafra Rodriguez was born in 1981 in the town of Alcalá de Guadaíra, not far from Seville. His family operated a small hostel by the name of Posada de Alcalá, where he first fell in love with Andalusian cuisine, thanks largely to the efforts of his mother, Conchi, who handled the cooking. Meanwhile, dad was in the truck transport business and allowed his son to come along, and the two would try various restaurants around town. In 1997, Zafra enrolled at the Escuela de Hostelería Heliópolis de Sevilla, and during this period, worked at a local eatery called San Marcos while spending summers in Italy, cooking at Arnolfo in Colle di Val d'Elsa and Antica Trattoria in Siena (both in Tuscany). Following, he trained at the likes of Atrio in Cáceres, Tristán on the island of Mallorca, Aldebarán in Badajoz, Arzak in San Sebastián, Quique Dacosta in Dénia, La Terraza del Casino in Madrid, Tragabuches in Ronda, and Calima in Marbella (these last two under Dani García), and also studied pastry with Paco Torreblanca at Pastelería Totel.
In 2003, he joined the team at La Hacienda Benazuza (a.k.a. El Bulli Hotel) in Sanlúcar la Mayor, and was made head chef in 2008 (replacing Rafa Morales), during which time he maintained two Michelin stars for the property's La Alquería restaurant and spent winters at El Bulli proper. He also met both of his future business partners: Ricardo Martín Acquista and Anna Gotanegra Pujol, whose father Pere Gotanegra Julià was the restaurant's fish supplier. However, both elBulli and elBullihotel would shutter in 2011, forcing Zafra to take a job with Oasis Hotels & Resorts. In that role, he moved to Mexico, where he opened several restaurants and spent much of his time in Cancún. He didn't lose touch with the Adrià brothers though, and even assisted with the opening of Tickets and Bodega 1900. Zafra thus left Oasis in 2015 to lead the kitchen at Heart Ibiza, a project created by the Adriàs in collaboration with Cirque du Soleil co-founder Guy Laliberté. Given that Heart was a seasonal gig, he decided to launch his first solo project in Barcelona, situated in a small storefront that his wife's family had.
It was initially supposed to be an intimate gastronomic restaurant, but Ferran Adrià convinced Zafra to open a small seafood spot instead, and thus Estimar bowed in March 2016. The place was a success, and a second outpost landed in Madrid in September 2019, followed by Casa Jondal in Ibiza in July 2020. 2022 was a big year, seeing the arrival of Mar Mía at Ocean Drive Madrid in March (with Carlos Bosch and Luis Rodríguez), Amar at El Palace Hotel Barcelona in April, La Piscina at Belmond La Residencia Mallorca in August (consulting only), Mareantes at Hotel Tayko Sevilla in August (now closed), and the daytime-focused Per Feina in Barcelona in October. In November 2023, we witnessed the debut of Rural in Madrid, basically a meat-centric version of Estimar, which was created in partnership with chef Alberto Pacheco and sommelier Juanma Galán. Zafra's latest projects are Casa de Comidas and Bikini Bar, both of which are located in Hotel NH Collection Madrid Eurobuilding and dropped in June this year.
Estimar is situated along an uncomfortably narrow, but surprisingly well-lit street in El Born, and once inside, you'll encounter a similarly tiny space. In fact, there's not really a proper dining room, but rather, you find yourself basically eating in the kitchen, which is not a bad place to be.
As for Estimar's menu, it's a tantalizing, decidedly seafood-centric affair, anchored by a set of standby dishes but also bolstered by a list of the Chef's caprichos. I've also included the wine list, which is heavily tilted toward Spanish and French bottlings. Click for larger versions.
Aperitivos y Pan [3.50€ ($3.80)]
Dinner commenced with a small set of unsolicited appetizers. Anchovies were excellent, seemingly much sweeter than usual, with a gentle brine. The fish arrived swimming in a pool of olive oil, which I eagerly mopped up with that tender, crusty bread. The olives were also first-class, coming out uncommonly meaty, their tangy sweetness joined by a sophisticated savor. Both olives and anchovies were among the best I've had.
Carpaccio de cigalitas y cebolla caramelizada "Homenaje al Bulli 1995" [28.00€ ($30.44)] | Langoustine carpaccio with caramelised onions "tribute to El Bulli 1995"
This throwback to a classic El Bulli dish did a great job exhibiting the pure, sweet salinity of langoustine, commingled with the headiness of well-caramelized onion as well as a bit of a spicy edge.
Erizo con tartar de gamba y caviar [32.00€ ($34.79)] | Sea urchin with prawn tartar and caviar
A decidedly luxurious presentation of raw seafood certainly delivered with its delectable meshing of super sweet shrimp and almost-as-sweet sea urchin, all punctuated by the more overt saltiness of caviar. I was quite a fan of the disparate textures here, too.
Once again, I chose a local sparkling wine to pair with my meal, this time the 2012 Llopart Original 1887 [107€ ($116.32)]. Initial whiffs brought orchard fruits support by toasty, yeasty elements. On the palate, I found rich, juicy, concentrated apple at the fore, offset by touches of nutty astringency. With more time, things got noticeably oxidative on the nose, while taste-wise, the Corpinnat drank like a dry, refreshing apple cider. At the end of the night, the wine had evolved into an even nuttier, more oxidative state. Another strong showing from a Spanish sparkler.
Percebes de Roncudo al vapor y vinagreta de laurel [36.00€ ($39.14) / 100 gr] | Steamed Roncudo goose barnacles with bayleaf vinaigrette
I'd never had gooseneck barnacles before, so this delicacy was something that I was specifically looking to sample on this trip. These guys certainly looked intimidating, and they were actually quite difficult to eat as well. I had to pinch the top of the crustaceans, struggle to remove their rough outer casing, then finally detach the inner edible portion, all while avoiding the barnacles' tendency to "squirt" (I was provided a bib for this reason). The work was worth it, though. Interestingly, the percebes smelled quite funky, but their taste was much more refined, demonstrating a sweet, sophisticated salinity with just a hint of earthiness on the back end. They were pretty delicious, actually, and the zippy sauce on the side, while appreciated, wasn't strictly needed.
I was quickly provided a wet towel, which was very much a necessity given the messy nature of the barnacles.
Chipirones rebozados a la andaluza con mahonesa de su tinta [20.00€ ($21.74) / media] | Breaded squid in andalusian style and black inked mayonnaise
In this tribute to Miguel Palomo's Restaurante Alhucemas in Sanlúcar la Mayor, baby squid showed off perfectly light, crispy battered exteriors and creamy, tender insides brimming with both sweetness and salinity. The calamares were undoubtedly delicious alone, but were indeed amped up even further by those piquant dots of black-tinted sauce. After taking my first bite, I immediately deemed these to be the best fried squid I've ever eaten, and even told my server, who seemed contented by the claim.
Navajas a la sartén y escabeche tibio [18.00€ ($19.57)] | Warm pickled razor clams from Ría de Arousa
Razor clams were a joy texturally, and I loved how their trademark brine flitted around with the dish's carrot-y, onion-y tang.
"La Gamba de Roses" hervida en agua de mar / al vapor en algas / a la brasa [72.70€ ($79.03) / 190 gr] | Roses red prawn boiled in seawater / steamed in seaweed / cooked on the grill
Catalonia's famed red prawn (sourced tonight from Cap de Creus I believe) is apparently Chef Zafra's deathbed food, and I certainly wanted to get my fill tonight, so I requested that the shrimp be served in three ways. In the boiled preparation, the prawn was super supple, with a marked sweetness at first that quickly transitioned to a growing, potent, yet elegant brine. The steamed gamba, meanwhile, displayed a firmer consistency, with both a more subdued sweetness and a more forceful salinity. Last up was the a la plancha presentation, with its delicate smoke and pinpricks of salt; what was intriguing was that I was somehow tasted absinthe in there. Superb.
Again, given the hands-on nature of the prawn trio, a moistened napkin soon appeared before me.
Roger [33.00€ ($35.87) / 300 gr] | Striped red mullet
I wanted to try some actual fish as well, and given that I was dining solo, I requested the smallest specimen that the kitchen had, which turned out to be this salmonete de roca. Prepared a la brasa, the surmullet had an ultra-bouncy texture, which I loved, while its taste was earthy and intense and far more oceany than most, making for a great match with the dish's smoke and assertively garlicky elements.
Espardeñas de Roses [28.00€ ($30.44) / 100 gr] | Roses royal sea cucumber "Espardenya"
I'd never had sea cucumber prepared quite like this before, which is a damn shame, because these were fantastic. I loved the espardenyas' supple, snappy, chewy mouthfeel, while their taste went in a subtly saline-n-sweet direction, with a bit of sourness and a very agreeable hint of smoky char. This could very well be the best sea cucumber I've had.
"Bikini" (salmón ahumado, creme fraîche y caviar) [100.00€ ($108.71)] | Smoked salmon, creme fraîche and Caviar Sandwich
Given that I was in Catalunya, it just felt right to try this unabashedly lux version of the region's signature bikini sandwich. What we're talking about is a harmonious marriage of smoke, salt, brine, and cream, all moderated by that delightfully toasty bread.
Tortilla vaga con percebes, gambas, caviar y panceta [130.00€ ($141.32)] | Simple Omelette with barnacles, prawns, caviar and pork belly stripe
My final savory was this schmancy incarnation of the Spanish "lazy omelette." The egg was enjoyable just by itself thanks to its simultaneously runny-yet-firm consistency, and really set the stage for the seafood. Texturally, the shrimp were the stars of the show, while taste-wise, it was the long-lingering musk of the percebes that stood out, with both the caviar and pork offering contrasting elements of salt.
And here we see Estimar's dessert menu and selection of after-dinner beverages. Click for larger versions.
Cheesecake Estimar [16.00€ ($17.39)] | With Maresme strawberry sauce and almond flour cookie base
I only had room for one dessert, and decided to go with the restaurant's most popular offering. The pastel de queso did not disappoint, coming out surprisingly light, with both a restrained smoke and a restrained sweetness, all while the strawberry contributed this tart-jammy accent.
I also requested some local dessert wine, and was given the Perelada Garnatxa de l'Empordà 12 Anys Reserva [14€ ($15.22)]. Aged using the solera method, this smelled of dark fruit commixed with oxidized, nutty, and funky nuances. In terms of taste, this struck me as port-like, with a supporting cast of acidic, rancio, and barnyard-y qualities.
I had high hopes going into this meal, and was not let down. You definitely get a sense of the quality of the raw product utilized here, and the way the seafood was prepared and presented really conveyed this palpable feeling of honesty and purity. It's like the kitchen had nothing to hide behind, and was thus able to bring out the very best of each ingredient. It was all thoroughly gratifying, even a bit eye-opening, and in fact, I'm tempted to deem this my top seafood experience of all-time.
Carrer de Sant Antoni dels Sombrerers, 3, Ciutat Vella, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
+34 932 68 91 97
www.restaurante-estimar.com
Sat 10/19/2024, 08:30p-11:25p
During my time in Barcelona, I definitely wanted to have a meal at a proper marisquería, and after conducting some research, decided on Estimar. Located in the neighborhood of Sant Pere, Santa Caterina i la Ribera, the place opened back in 2016, and has since established itself as a top spot in BCN for seafood, so I was certainly eager to check it out. The restaurant is the brainchild of elBulli alum Chef Rafa Zafra, in partnership with Ricardo Acquista (a colleague from the elBullihotel days) and Anna Gotanegra (his wife, who also represents the fifth generation of seafood supplier Pescadors de Roses). The three actually form Rianra group, and have worked on numerous other projects together.
About the Chef: Juan Rafael Zafra Rodriguez was born in 1981 in the town of Alcalá de Guadaíra, not far from Seville. His family operated a small hostel by the name of Posada de Alcalá, where he first fell in love with Andalusian cuisine, thanks largely to the efforts of his mother, Conchi, who handled the cooking. Meanwhile, dad was in the truck transport business and allowed his son to come along, and the two would try various restaurants around town. In 1997, Zafra enrolled at the Escuela de Hostelería Heliópolis de Sevilla, and during this period, worked at a local eatery called San Marcos while spending summers in Italy, cooking at Arnolfo in Colle di Val d'Elsa and Antica Trattoria in Siena (both in Tuscany). Following, he trained at the likes of Atrio in Cáceres, Tristán on the island of Mallorca, Aldebarán in Badajoz, Arzak in San Sebastián, Quique Dacosta in Dénia, La Terraza del Casino in Madrid, Tragabuches in Ronda, and Calima in Marbella (these last two under Dani García), and also studied pastry with Paco Torreblanca at Pastelería Totel.
In 2003, he joined the team at La Hacienda Benazuza (a.k.a. El Bulli Hotel) in Sanlúcar la Mayor, and was made head chef in 2008 (replacing Rafa Morales), during which time he maintained two Michelin stars for the property's La Alquería restaurant and spent winters at El Bulli proper. He also met both of his future business partners: Ricardo Martín Acquista and Anna Gotanegra Pujol, whose father Pere Gotanegra Julià was the restaurant's fish supplier. However, both elBulli and elBullihotel would shutter in 2011, forcing Zafra to take a job with Oasis Hotels & Resorts. In that role, he moved to Mexico, where he opened several restaurants and spent much of his time in Cancún. He didn't lose touch with the Adrià brothers though, and even assisted with the opening of Tickets and Bodega 1900. Zafra thus left Oasis in 2015 to lead the kitchen at Heart Ibiza, a project created by the Adriàs in collaboration with Cirque du Soleil co-founder Guy Laliberté. Given that Heart was a seasonal gig, he decided to launch his first solo project in Barcelona, situated in a small storefront that his wife's family had.
It was initially supposed to be an intimate gastronomic restaurant, but Ferran Adrià convinced Zafra to open a small seafood spot instead, and thus Estimar bowed in March 2016. The place was a success, and a second outpost landed in Madrid in September 2019, followed by Casa Jondal in Ibiza in July 2020. 2022 was a big year, seeing the arrival of Mar Mía at Ocean Drive Madrid in March (with Carlos Bosch and Luis Rodríguez), Amar at El Palace Hotel Barcelona in April, La Piscina at Belmond La Residencia Mallorca in August (consulting only), Mareantes at Hotel Tayko Sevilla in August (now closed), and the daytime-focused Per Feina in Barcelona in October. In November 2023, we witnessed the debut of Rural in Madrid, basically a meat-centric version of Estimar, which was created in partnership with chef Alberto Pacheco and sommelier Juanma Galán. Zafra's latest projects are Casa de Comidas and Bikini Bar, both of which are located in Hotel NH Collection Madrid Eurobuilding and dropped in June this year.
Estimar is situated along an uncomfortably narrow, but surprisingly well-lit street in El Born, and once inside, you'll encounter a similarly tiny space. In fact, there's not really a proper dining room, but rather, you find yourself basically eating in the kitchen, which is not a bad place to be.
As for Estimar's menu, it's a tantalizing, decidedly seafood-centric affair, anchored by a set of standby dishes but also bolstered by a list of the Chef's caprichos. I've also included the wine list, which is heavily tilted toward Spanish and French bottlings. Click for larger versions.
Aperitivos y Pan [3.50€ ($3.80)]
Dinner commenced with a small set of unsolicited appetizers. Anchovies were excellent, seemingly much sweeter than usual, with a gentle brine. The fish arrived swimming in a pool of olive oil, which I eagerly mopped up with that tender, crusty bread. The olives were also first-class, coming out uncommonly meaty, their tangy sweetness joined by a sophisticated savor. Both olives and anchovies were among the best I've had.
Carpaccio de cigalitas y cebolla caramelizada "Homenaje al Bulli 1995" [28.00€ ($30.44)] | Langoustine carpaccio with caramelised onions "tribute to El Bulli 1995"
This throwback to a classic El Bulli dish did a great job exhibiting the pure, sweet salinity of langoustine, commingled with the headiness of well-caramelized onion as well as a bit of a spicy edge.
Erizo con tartar de gamba y caviar [32.00€ ($34.79)] | Sea urchin with prawn tartar and caviar
A decidedly luxurious presentation of raw seafood certainly delivered with its delectable meshing of super sweet shrimp and almost-as-sweet sea urchin, all punctuated by the more overt saltiness of caviar. I was quite a fan of the disparate textures here, too.
Once again, I chose a local sparkling wine to pair with my meal, this time the 2012 Llopart Original 1887 [107€ ($116.32)]. Initial whiffs brought orchard fruits support by toasty, yeasty elements. On the palate, I found rich, juicy, concentrated apple at the fore, offset by touches of nutty astringency. With more time, things got noticeably oxidative on the nose, while taste-wise, the Corpinnat drank like a dry, refreshing apple cider. At the end of the night, the wine had evolved into an even nuttier, more oxidative state. Another strong showing from a Spanish sparkler.
Percebes de Roncudo al vapor y vinagreta de laurel [36.00€ ($39.14) / 100 gr] | Steamed Roncudo goose barnacles with bayleaf vinaigrette
I'd never had gooseneck barnacles before, so this delicacy was something that I was specifically looking to sample on this trip. These guys certainly looked intimidating, and they were actually quite difficult to eat as well. I had to pinch the top of the crustaceans, struggle to remove their rough outer casing, then finally detach the inner edible portion, all while avoiding the barnacles' tendency to "squirt" (I was provided a bib for this reason). The work was worth it, though. Interestingly, the percebes smelled quite funky, but their taste was much more refined, demonstrating a sweet, sophisticated salinity with just a hint of earthiness on the back end. They were pretty delicious, actually, and the zippy sauce on the side, while appreciated, wasn't strictly needed.
I was quickly provided a wet towel, which was very much a necessity given the messy nature of the barnacles.
Chipirones rebozados a la andaluza con mahonesa de su tinta [20.00€ ($21.74) / media] | Breaded squid in andalusian style and black inked mayonnaise
In this tribute to Miguel Palomo's Restaurante Alhucemas in Sanlúcar la Mayor, baby squid showed off perfectly light, crispy battered exteriors and creamy, tender insides brimming with both sweetness and salinity. The calamares were undoubtedly delicious alone, but were indeed amped up even further by those piquant dots of black-tinted sauce. After taking my first bite, I immediately deemed these to be the best fried squid I've ever eaten, and even told my server, who seemed contented by the claim.
Navajas a la sartén y escabeche tibio [18.00€ ($19.57)] | Warm pickled razor clams from Ría de Arousa
Razor clams were a joy texturally, and I loved how their trademark brine flitted around with the dish's carrot-y, onion-y tang.
"La Gamba de Roses" hervida en agua de mar / al vapor en algas / a la brasa [72.70€ ($79.03) / 190 gr] | Roses red prawn boiled in seawater / steamed in seaweed / cooked on the grill
Catalonia's famed red prawn (sourced tonight from Cap de Creus I believe) is apparently Chef Zafra's deathbed food, and I certainly wanted to get my fill tonight, so I requested that the shrimp be served in three ways. In the boiled preparation, the prawn was super supple, with a marked sweetness at first that quickly transitioned to a growing, potent, yet elegant brine. The steamed gamba, meanwhile, displayed a firmer consistency, with both a more subdued sweetness and a more forceful salinity. Last up was the a la plancha presentation, with its delicate smoke and pinpricks of salt; what was intriguing was that I was somehow tasted absinthe in there. Superb.
Again, given the hands-on nature of the prawn trio, a moistened napkin soon appeared before me.
Roger [33.00€ ($35.87) / 300 gr] | Striped red mullet
I wanted to try some actual fish as well, and given that I was dining solo, I requested the smallest specimen that the kitchen had, which turned out to be this salmonete de roca. Prepared a la brasa, the surmullet had an ultra-bouncy texture, which I loved, while its taste was earthy and intense and far more oceany than most, making for a great match with the dish's smoke and assertively garlicky elements.
Espardeñas de Roses [28.00€ ($30.44) / 100 gr] | Roses royal sea cucumber "Espardenya"
I'd never had sea cucumber prepared quite like this before, which is a damn shame, because these were fantastic. I loved the espardenyas' supple, snappy, chewy mouthfeel, while their taste went in a subtly saline-n-sweet direction, with a bit of sourness and a very agreeable hint of smoky char. This could very well be the best sea cucumber I've had.
"Bikini" (salmón ahumado, creme fraîche y caviar) [100.00€ ($108.71)] | Smoked salmon, creme fraîche and Caviar Sandwich
Given that I was in Catalunya, it just felt right to try this unabashedly lux version of the region's signature bikini sandwich. What we're talking about is a harmonious marriage of smoke, salt, brine, and cream, all moderated by that delightfully toasty bread.
Tortilla vaga con percebes, gambas, caviar y panceta [130.00€ ($141.32)] | Simple Omelette with barnacles, prawns, caviar and pork belly stripe
My final savory was this schmancy incarnation of the Spanish "lazy omelette." The egg was enjoyable just by itself thanks to its simultaneously runny-yet-firm consistency, and really set the stage for the seafood. Texturally, the shrimp were the stars of the show, while taste-wise, it was the long-lingering musk of the percebes that stood out, with both the caviar and pork offering contrasting elements of salt.
And here we see Estimar's dessert menu and selection of after-dinner beverages. Click for larger versions.
Cheesecake Estimar [16.00€ ($17.39)] | With Maresme strawberry sauce and almond flour cookie base
I only had room for one dessert, and decided to go with the restaurant's most popular offering. The pastel de queso did not disappoint, coming out surprisingly light, with both a restrained smoke and a restrained sweetness, all while the strawberry contributed this tart-jammy accent.
I also requested some local dessert wine, and was given the Perelada Garnatxa de l'Empordà 12 Anys Reserva [14€ ($15.22)]. Aged using the solera method, this smelled of dark fruit commixed with oxidized, nutty, and funky nuances. In terms of taste, this struck me as port-like, with a supporting cast of acidic, rancio, and barnyard-y qualities.
I had high hopes going into this meal, and was not let down. You definitely get a sense of the quality of the raw product utilized here, and the way the seafood was prepared and presented really conveyed this palpable feeling of honesty and purity. It's like the kitchen had nothing to hide behind, and was thus able to bring out the very best of each ingredient. It was all thoroughly gratifying, even a bit eye-opening, and in fact, I'm tempted to deem this my top seafood experience of all-time.
posted by kevinEats at
8:30 PM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]
<< Home