C/ de Muntaner, 108, L'Eixample, 08036 Barcelona, Spain
+34 619 64 14 02
sips.barcelona/drinkery-house/
Tue 10/15/2024, 10:30p-12:20a
Thu 10/17/2024, 12:20a-02:00a
After an excellent tapas dinner at Paco Meralgo, I was in the mood for some postprandial libations, and thus took a short walk south to Sips. Opened in 2021 by Marc Alvarez and Simone Caporale, the cocktail bar has seen a meteoric rise over the past several years, so I was eager to check it out.
About the Bartenders: Marc Álvarez got started in the industry during his high school years, but it was only at his time at the University of Barcelona when he really began falling in love with bartending. While study biology at the school, he started working at a bar in order to earn some extra income, and soon decided to change his career path. Following, he made his way through various establishments in Barcelona before winding up at Albert Adrià's 41º. He was then promoted to a position overseeing bar programs for the Chef's entire El Barri family of restaurants, where he stayed for eight years, during which time he founded his own consultancy firm called Drinks Atelier. Sadly, ElBarri group shut down due to the pandemic, but it was around this period when Álvarez started talking with Caporale about launching their own place together.
Simone Caporale began his hospitality career in 2003, working at a coffee bar and nightclub on Lake Como. He bartended for five years in his native Italy and one in Valencia before making his way to London in 2009. After spending time at Roast in Borough Market, he landed at Artesian at The Langham in September 2010. There, he trained with Alex Kratena, and the duo revitalized Artesian's cocktail program, even earning the #1 spot on the World's 50 Best Bars list from 2012 to 2015, not to mention numerous honors from the Spirited Awards. However, Caporale departed Artesian in November 2015 due to lack of motivation. In 2016, he (along with Kratena, who'd decamped at the same time), co-founded an organization called P(OUR), dedicated to industry education, and was also involved with the creation of Muyu liqueurs, Canaïma gin, Zeo non-alcoholic "spirits," and the Flavour Blaster bubble-making tool. Caporale had actually thought of opening in Barcelona previously, but decided to give the city another chance once he connected with Álvarez in London.
With their shared vision in place, the duo debuted Sips in Barcelona's L'Antiga Esquerra de l'Eixample neighborhood in June 2021 to considerable fanfare, and that December, the place was already ranked #37 on The World's 50 Best Bars list. In 2022, Alvarez and Caporale took over Boadas, reportedly BCN's oldest cocktail bar, achieved the #3 position on the 50 Best ranking, and opened Glass by Sips at Hotel Urban in Madrid. July 2023 saw "World's Best Bar" and "Best International Cocktail Bar" honors at the 17th annual Spirited Awards, as well as the #1 spot from the folks over at The World's 50 Best Bars (it's now #3 on the 2024 list).
Sips takes over the former home of Lexington restaurant/lounge, and as expected, the space has been thoroughly redone. Interestingly, the Drinkery House doesn't have an actual bar. Instead, drinks are prepared at a central island, while guests are seated either at nearby high tables or standard tables along the wall. Divided up into sections by the names of Eccentric, Art, Pret a Porte, and Classips, the cocktail list here features creative creations as well as twists on classics. There's also a small food menu with a handful of bar bites.
Two Steps Martini (The One and Only, colder than ever...) [21.00€ ($22.93)] | Seventy One Gin, Martini Extra Dry
I started with something on the decidedly classic side, which actually comprised two completely separate martinis served in succession, both chilled down to -11°C (12.2°F) if I remember correctly. The two rounds were meant to maintain the cocktail's low temperature, which seemingly muted the nose but enhanced the palate. I found the olive particularly well-integrated, and somehow even detected a trace of effervescence in the drink.
Banana Revenge (The taste of Brazil) [15.00€ ($16.38)] | Ron Matusalem 15 Years, Bacardi Heritage Rum, Coffee Flour, Banana
This next cocktail came with a bite to be consumed first, which offered up umami-tinged coffee notes that transitioned to a banana-fueled sweetness. The actual liquid was even more beguiling, commixing savory, sweet, sour, and oxidative elements in expert fashion. I even tasted guava juice on my ending sips.
Complimentary snacks included these toasty corn nuts.
Blanc (Gastronomy's tradition in liquid form...) [15.00€ ($16.38)] | Fundador Sherry Cask Solera, Cointreau, Pine nuts, Raisins, Freeze-dried spinach
My favorite cocktail of the bunch, this one was super familiar-tasting, but I couldn't put my finger on why. On the creamy side in terms of mouthfeel, I got melon candy right up front, but this quickly transitioned to a bevy of charmingly nutty, sweet, and vegetal nuances that really appealed to me. Meanwhile, the drink's spinach-powered rim was a bit odd at first, but kept begging me to go back for more.
Black Dot (Agave Bittered and Eccentric) [15.00€ ($16.38)] | Mezcal Montelobos, Luxardo Bitter Bianco, Noilly Prat Original Dry, Lemon Verbena, Orange
Crowned with a coin of black-tinted orange jelly, the night's final cocktail demonstrated this negroni-esque bittersweetness, but with an additional backing of herbaceous astringency that lent a great depth and complexity to the drink.
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Given that I was only able to try four concoctions on my initial visit to Sips, I actually went back to the bar the following evening to sample more of the menu.
Mojito (Memories from an unforgettable holiday) [15.00€ ($16.36)] | Diplomatico Planas Rum, Lime, Mint
In my early years of cocktail appreciation, the mojito was a go-to of mine, so it certainly felt appropriate to revisit the drink tonight. The conceit here was that the team took out the mint and made a syrup out of it, which was then poured in tableside. The result was a presentation of classic flavors, but in a seemingly more concentrated, in-your-face manner.
Here we see Drinkery House's back bar display.
Compressed (A sunset from the Jerez countryside...) [15.00€ ($16.36)] | Singleton Whisky 12 años, Palo Cortado Harveys, Peach, Jasmine
My next cocktail was served in a glass that was compressed at the top in order to make guests sip slower. The drink was accompanied by an airy, shattery, translucent peach chip that actually stuck quite firmly to the roof of my mouth, thus providing a lingering fruitiness that linked up with the nutty, oxidized nature of the liquid.
Another complimentary snack was this serving of senbei-like rice crackers.
Adonis (The magic smell of hazelnut) [15.00€ ($16.36)] | Martini Rubino, Savoia Americano, Palo cortado Harveys, Hazelnut praline
This ruby-hued cocktail featured a chocolate-y, sugary, nutty praline bite that married with the oxidative, bitter, yet surprisingly easy-going character of the drink.
Bubble (We seek comfort from our inner hidden child...) [16.00€ ($17.45)] | Vodka 14 Inkas, Passion fruit, Vanilla, Bubbles, bubbles, bubbles
A mass of bubbles released a cloud of cool, sweet smoke upon being "kissed," while the liquid underneath went in a decidedly sweet, tropical direction, but was well-moderated by the accompanying coupe of dry sparkling wine. And yes, this did indeed come with a container of bubble solution and an accompanying wand. The idea was to have a bit of fun blowing bubbles while enjoying the cocktail, though I found the task rather difficult.
Krypta (A cocktail you can breathe!) [15.00€ ($16.36)] | London Dry Gin, Hibiki Japanese Harmony, Clarified Kiwi
I concluded with what's arguably the bar's most popular cocktail, served in one of the most unusual vessels I've encountered. Taking a sip, I found an amalgamation of sweet, sour, and saline notes, with a touch of oxidation, and those flavors certainly worked with the bright, fresh, herby aromas provided by the suspended greenery.
I'm really glad that I made it out to Sips to see what all the fuss was about. The cocktails here gave me a sense that they're rooted in classical sensibility, but infused with both modern technique and touches from the world of gastronomy, and were generally more straightforward than I'd anticipated. Service, meanwhile, was also very solid, and I didn't have too much trouble getting in, either (I'm sure being a solo imbiber helped in that regard). I can certainly see why so many people like this place.
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