8370 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90048
323-782-9033
www.sonofagunrestaurant.com
Wed 10/09/2024, 08:20p-10:45p
Last June, I paid one final visit to Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook's seminal spot Animal, which shuttered after 15 years in business. After the meal, I wondered if Son of a Gun was next on the chopping block, and it turns out it was. The Beverly Grove eatery debuted in February 2011 as the long-awaited follow-up to Animal, and while it never achieved the acclaim of its bigger brother, SoaG still became one of LA's staple seafooders. Though it was able to survive the pandemic by transforming into a smash burger joint called Larry's Burgers and Ice Cream, the restaurant's closure was announced at the start of September, with the final day of service being October 12th.
Inside, things haven't changed much at all since the restaurant opened, and the dining room's nautical decor is still in place, though they did get rid of the communal table.
Son of a Gun's menu sports the same feel (and some of the same dishes) that it's had since day one. Beverage-wise, you get cocktails both classic and not, a small Old World-leaning wine list, as well as a smattering of beer and sake. Click for larger versions.
Hamachi, Galbi Vinaigrette, Pink Lady Apple, Radish Sprout, Mungbean Sprouts [$27.50]
Our meal got off to a strong start. I was a big fan of the near-bracing bitterness of the sprouts, which juxtaposed seamlessly with fatty slices of yellowtail and even better with the sweet-savoriness of that vinaigrette (which reminded my dining companion of chogochujang).
Smoked Mahi Dip, Celery, Radish, Crackers [$23.75]
Mahi-mahi displayed its smoke flawlessly, and I much appreciated the contrast offered up by the one-two punch of radish and celery. The dip made total sense when taken with those salty crackers, though I wasn't as keen on the lemon, which imparted a sourness that tended to overwhelm the fish.
Lemongrass Luau [$17.75] | Lemongrass Infused Tito's, Coconut, Lemongrass-Ginger Syrup, Lemon, Apricot Liqueur
My first cocktail demonstrated plenty of coconut-fueled sweetness right up front, backed by the sting of lemongrass and an underpinning of astringency.
Bigeye Tuna, Leche de Tigre, Avocado, Tortilla [$36.00]
Ruby-hued cuts of tuna worked hand in hand with the creaminess of avocado, and I loved the salt and crunch from the tortilla chip shards mixed in. However, I would've liked more acidity from the tiger's milk, and wouldn't have minded some heat, either.
Roasted Broccoli, Carrots, Red Quinoa, Peanuts, Honey Date Vinaigrette [$21.75]
This salad was suggested by our server, and he knew what he was talking about. The dish really came together well, playing disparate elements of bitter, sweet, spicy, nutty, and herby off each other in expert fashion. There was some nice textural variation to boot, while my only quibble was that the broccoli arrived more charred than I wanted.
Cutie-Patootie [$13.25] | Grapefruit, Spiced Clementine Syrup, Lime, Agave
This non-alcoholic cocktail largely delivered, and I detected this very familiar savoriness in the drink that I couldn't put my finger on.
Pimento Cheese Fries, Comeback Sauce, Chives [$15.95]
French fries were on point, though the pimiento cheese veered overly sweet for me. I much preferred a dab of the ketchup, or a dip into that comeback sauce.
Shrimp Toast Sandwich, Hoisin, Herbs, Sriracha Mayo [$15.95]
SoaG's riff on prawn toast conveyed the savory-saline nature of the shrimp admirably, set against a creeping heat and touches of herb. Nice texture on the actual bread, too.
Big Daddy's Final Punch [$18.50] | Agricole Rum, Americano Bianco, Passionfruit, Pineapple, Lemon, Orange Bitters
This tiki-ish cocktail demonstrated the citrusy, tropical notes I was expecting, but was far more floral than anticipated. Think department store perfume section.
Fish and Chips, Malt Vinegar Aioli [$25.95]
The fish 'n' chips managed to be one of the better renditions I've tried. The fish arrived expertly fried, with crispy, light exteriors and juicy, flaky insides. A squirt of lemon opened things up beautifully, and I was sort of enamored with that tangy, subtly sweet aioli to boot. As for the fries, they were spot-on texturally, assertively seasoned, and easily stood on their own merits.
Tuna Melt, Cheddar, Tomato, Crème Fraiche, Rye [$15.95]
The tuna melt also met the mark. I thoroughly enjoyed the pickle-y nature of the tuna salad and how well it meshed with the cheese, all while the rye bread served as the perfect vessel for it all.
Nightcap [$18.50] | Uncle Val's Gin, Lavender, Chamomile, Honey, Lemon, Yellow Chartreuse, Lillet Blanc
This cocktail went in an unabashedly floral direction, but never got overwhelmingly so due to the moderating effects of the citrus and the sugary-herbal qualities of the Chartreuse-Lillet combo.
Lobster Roll, Celery, Lemon Aioli [$14.50]
Augmented by a zingy aioli, the signature sweet-n-saline nature of lobster was well-communicated in this miniature roll. I enjoyed the salt and crunch imparted by the potato chips as well, while the bread showed off a subtle sweetness that also made sense.
Nashville Hot Fried Chicken Sandwich, Comeback Sauce, B&B Pickles, Iceberg Lettuce [$21.95]
In our final savory dish, the actual fried chicken wasn't quite as juicy as I was hoping for, but was delectably seasoned, with a restrained sweet-heat that coalesced commendably with the lettuce and sweet-tang of those pickles, all while the comeback sauce helped tie everything together.
Close the Door. Have a Seat. [$17.75] | Argonaut Saloon Strength Brandy, Rittenhouse Rye, Carpano Antica, Spiced Clementine, Bitters
My last cocktail was definitely the heftiest of the lot. Think Aperol-like and grapefruit-y on the nose, while the palate showcased sweet spices commixed with a bevy of bittersweet, boozy nuances.
And here we see Son of a Gun's compact selection of desserts as well as its considerable array of after-dinner libations. Click for a larger version.
Frozen Lime Yogurt, Graham Crumble, Toasted Meringue [$14.75]
Reminiscent of a key lime pie, our first dessert was certainly on the refreshing, palate-cleansing side. I was particularly fond of that graham cracker "crust."
Chocolate Peanut Butter Pie [$13.00]
This pie came highly recommended by our server, and once again, he was right on the money. Its marriage of peanut butter and chocolate was just about flawless, while cream and crust did just what they needed to do. Lovely crunch and salt from the pretzels, too.
It'd been several years since my last meal at Son of a Gun, so it was great to be able to revisit the place before it was too late. With SoaG's shutter, I think it's safe to say that the era of the Two Dudes is well over, as Dotolo and Shook seem content to focus on Jon & Vinny's and their catering business. That being said, keep an eye out for what's coming up next for this space. Daniel Patterson and Keith Corbin from Alta Adams are planning to debut a seemingly ambitious restaurant by the name of Jaca here, so that's definitely something to look forward to.
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