Tsuruichi Wagyu (Fountain Valley, CA)
Tsuru Ichi Wagyu
18950 Brookhurst St, Fountain Valley, CA 92708
714-884-3750
www.instagram.com/tsuruichi.wagyu/
Sat 10/26/2024, 05:30p-07:40p
If we're talking about yakiniku in Orange County, then my go-to spot for at least the past decade has been Tsuruhashi in Fountain Valley. The creation of Futing Chu and Sooyoung Han Chu, Tsuruhashi launched back in 2002 and soon established itself as a Japanese BBQ standby for OC. Its success even allowed a second outpost to debut in San Diego in 2007, though that location was sold earlier this year. The couple's latest venture is Tsuruichi Wagyu (鶴一和牛), a decidedly higher-end offering that soft-opened in July 2023. Given my fondness for their original restaurant, I was definitely curious to give it a try.
Inside, things are certainly a step up aesthetically from what I've encountered at Tsuruhashi.
Here we see Tsuruichi's menu, which features a variety of Japanese barbecue cuts (sourced from Hokkaido wagyu I was told) along with appropriate accompaniments. Beverage-wise, there's a (very) small selection of sake, beer, shochu, and wine, so you'll probably want to make use of the corkage option, which was $35 a bottle. Click for larger versions.
The meal got started with a complimentary serving of black sesame tofu (gomadofu), set in a tangy ponzu-ish sauce.
Premium Tongue [$22.00]
Our first meat was gyutan, an agreeably "snappy," slightly chewy cut with an understated beefiness that paired swimmingly with a dusting of black pepper, and really opened up with a dab of lemon.
Marbled Platter [$142.00] | Sankaku, Haneshita, Misuji, Hiuchi, Ichibo
Here we see the shimo platter of well-marbled meats.
Haneshita ~ Chuck Roll ~ | Soft & Melty
The chuck roll made for a strong start thanks to its deft marriage of marbling and this refined, almost contemplative meatiness.
Dipping sauces included lemon juice (for the tongue) and both shoyu- and miso-based condiments.
Ichibo ~ Aitchbone ~ | Moist & Strong taste
Rump steak ate tender and melty, yet elegant at the same time, and I preferred it sans any accoutrements.
We brought three bottles with us this evening, and first up was the 1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Initial whiffs brought restrained notes of purple fruit, while first sips displayed a palpable acidity along with tart fruit and baking spices. As the meal progressed, the wine definitely opened up, with far more generous fruit on the nose, conveyed in a cool manner, while the palate turned softer and demonstrated a bevy of earthy, leathery, slightly oxidative nuances.
Sankaku ~ Brisket ~ | Soft & Strong taste
Brisket was even more fatty and melt-in-my-mouth, and perhaps the most luscious of the lot. Do note, though, that the meat was actually labeled incorrectly as uchi hira.
Hiuchi ~ Knuckle ~ | Soft & Tasty
This next cut was probably the most balanced of the bunch, and was easy to enjoy without too much thinking.
Further condiments included salt-n-pepper as well as red wine salt.
Misuji ~ Shoulder Clod ~ | King of rare parts
Also known as oyster blade, this cut was a joy texturally thanks to its spot-on marriage of lean and fat, while its beefiness lingered long and strong.
Sirloin ~ Striploin ~ [$69.00] | King of Beef
Unsurprisingly, the sirloin was one of the richest, most intense cuts tonight, and had this very apparent heft that I certainly felt while eating it.
This next assortment of meat was meant to capture any remaining cuts that weren't covered by the pre-defined marbled and lean platters.
Assorted Kimchi [$13.00] | Napa, Daikon, Cucumber, Japanese Yam
Naturally, we had to sample Tsuruichi's selection of fermented goodies. Going left to right:
Tombi ~ Shoulder Clod ~ [$29.00] | Juicy and Tasty
Shoulder meat was lean and fine-textured, with a subtle savoriness.
Our second bottle was the 1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which was nice to compare with the '89 above. To start, the bouquet here went in a musty, iron-y direction, with a backing of dark fruit, all leading to flavors of sour cherries laced with barnyard. Further time resulted in tertiary, sulfurous, and meaty aromas, but with a palate of omnipresent red berry. On the flip side, my final glass was surprisingly vivacious and herbaceous on the nose, and tasted of tart fruit, earth, and leather.
Kawara ~ Shoulder Clod ~ [$29.00] | Marbled and Lean mixed
This next cut of beef had a bit more chew, and took particularly well to a healthy dosing of sear and smoke.
Marukaburi ~ Inside Knuckle ~ [$29.00] | Chewy but juicy
This lean-ish cut was lovely, showing off a very familiar, "classic" beefiness.
Wagyu Yukke ~ Marinated raw wagyu ~ [$24.00] | Sculpture of wagyu
Tsuruichi's take on yukhoe featured slightly chewy, substantial cuts of beef set in a sweet-n-savory marinade, accented by both a well-placed pepperiness and the crunch of pine nut.
Lean Platter [$140.00] | Uchihira, Kuri, Kamenoko, Shinshin, Rump
The aka platter served as a counterpoint to the marbled meat selection above.
Uchi hira ~ Top Round ~ | Moderate marble & Bland
Topside was arguably the leanest cut of the night, but was eminently satisfying nonetheless, with a very comforting savor.
Kuri ~ Shoulder Clod ~ | Moderate marble and Juicy
Chuck tender arrived with a firm-yet-yielding consistency, and developed a particularly rich, smoky taste on the grill.
Assorted Seasoned Vegetable [$8.00] | Spinach, Bean sprouts, Daikon, Royal fern
We also made sure to sample Tsuruichi's quartet of namuru. Going left to right:
Uwamisuji ~ Shoulder Clod ~ | Queen of beef
Another cut of shoulder just might've been my favorite of the lean meats thanks to its super sophisticated savor.
Our third and final wine was the 1986 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, which I believe was an ex-chateau bottling. On the nose, the Bordeaux was all about assertive, juicy berry backed by a noticeable mustiness. Taking a sip, I found nearly impenetrably dark fruit intertwined with candied notes and nutty, earthy elements. With time, the claret actually evolved quite a bit. Aromas became much more floral, but still with plenty of that vibrant fruit, while the palate softened up and offered considerably more menthol in a surprising young, vivacious package.
Uchi hira ~ Top Round ~ | Moderate marble & Bland
The kitchen had run out of some of the cuts that were supposed to be in our lean platter, so we were given a second serving of the uchihira, and this one seemed to be far more mineral-driven than the first.
Rump ~ Sirloin Butt ~ | Juicy & Tasty
The final meat from the lean platter ate tender and tasty, with a clean, restrained beefiness.
Wagyu Sashimi [$24.00] | A harmony of Japanese yam and wagyu
Beef sashimi was a tad chewier than I would've preferred, though taste-wise, the pairing of nori and wasabi made a lot of sense, with the mountain yam serving to soften the flavors at play.
Onion Tongue [$23.00]
Our second serving of tan was somewhat tougher than the first, but I very much enjoyed the zesty contrast offered up by the green onion.
Iberico Secreto [$17.00]
The evening's lone cut of butaniku really delivered thanks to its juiciness and mouthwateringly pork-y goodness.
Beef Heart [$13.00]
Last up was the hatsu, which boasted that slightly gamey taste I was seeking.
Hojicha had all the roastiness I was expecting, and was also somewhat more floral than usual.
Tsuruichi made quite a strong showing for itself tonight. Essentially, the restaurant offers all that I like about Tsuruhashi, but with higher-end cuts of meat, in a more pleasant environment. I feel pretty comfortable deeming this place the top yakiniku spot in Orange County, and I'm certain that I'll be back.
18950 Brookhurst St, Fountain Valley, CA 92708
714-884-3750
www.instagram.com/tsuruichi.wagyu/
Sat 10/26/2024, 05:30p-07:40p
If we're talking about yakiniku in Orange County, then my go-to spot for at least the past decade has been Tsuruhashi in Fountain Valley. The creation of Futing Chu and Sooyoung Han Chu, Tsuruhashi launched back in 2002 and soon established itself as a Japanese BBQ standby for OC. Its success even allowed a second outpost to debut in San Diego in 2007, though that location was sold earlier this year. The couple's latest venture is Tsuruichi Wagyu (鶴一和牛), a decidedly higher-end offering that soft-opened in July 2023. Given my fondness for their original restaurant, I was definitely curious to give it a try.
Inside, things are certainly a step up aesthetically from what I've encountered at Tsuruhashi.
Here we see Tsuruichi's menu, which features a variety of Japanese barbecue cuts (sourced from Hokkaido wagyu I was told) along with appropriate accompaniments. Beverage-wise, there's a (very) small selection of sake, beer, shochu, and wine, so you'll probably want to make use of the corkage option, which was $35 a bottle. Click for larger versions.
The meal got started with a complimentary serving of black sesame tofu (gomadofu), set in a tangy ponzu-ish sauce.
Premium Tongue [$22.00]
Our first meat was gyutan, an agreeably "snappy," slightly chewy cut with an understated beefiness that paired swimmingly with a dusting of black pepper, and really opened up with a dab of lemon.
Marbled Platter [$142.00] | Sankaku, Haneshita, Misuji, Hiuchi, Ichibo
Here we see the shimo platter of well-marbled meats.
Haneshita ~ Chuck Roll ~ | Soft & Melty
The chuck roll made for a strong start thanks to its deft marriage of marbling and this refined, almost contemplative meatiness.
Dipping sauces included lemon juice (for the tongue) and both shoyu- and miso-based condiments.
Ichibo ~ Aitchbone ~ | Moist & Strong taste
Rump steak ate tender and melty, yet elegant at the same time, and I preferred it sans any accoutrements.
We brought three bottles with us this evening, and first up was the 1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Initial whiffs brought restrained notes of purple fruit, while first sips displayed a palpable acidity along with tart fruit and baking spices. As the meal progressed, the wine definitely opened up, with far more generous fruit on the nose, conveyed in a cool manner, while the palate turned softer and demonstrated a bevy of earthy, leathery, slightly oxidative nuances.
Sankaku ~ Brisket ~ | Soft & Strong taste
Brisket was even more fatty and melt-in-my-mouth, and perhaps the most luscious of the lot. Do note, though, that the meat was actually labeled incorrectly as uchi hira.
Hiuchi ~ Knuckle ~ | Soft & Tasty
This next cut was probably the most balanced of the bunch, and was easy to enjoy without too much thinking.
Further condiments included salt-n-pepper as well as red wine salt.
Misuji ~ Shoulder Clod ~ | King of rare parts
Also known as oyster blade, this cut was a joy texturally thanks to its spot-on marriage of lean and fat, while its beefiness lingered long and strong.
Sirloin ~ Striploin ~ [$69.00] | King of Beef
Unsurprisingly, the sirloin was one of the richest, most intense cuts tonight, and had this very apparent heft that I certainly felt while eating it.
This next assortment of meat was meant to capture any remaining cuts that weren't covered by the pre-defined marbled and lean platters.
Assorted Kimchi [$13.00] | Napa, Daikon, Cucumber, Japanese Yam
Naturally, we had to sample Tsuruichi's selection of fermented goodies. Going left to right:
- The ubiquitous napa cabbage variety was seemingly nuttier than one typically encounters, which I didn't mind at all.
- Cucumbers were pretty prototypical, with a nice crunch to 'em.
- Yamaimo showed off that crisp yet mucilaginous consistency I was looking for.
- Cubes of radish were just what I wanted texturally, and somewhat sweeter than usual to boot.
Tombi ~ Shoulder Clod ~ [$29.00] | Juicy and Tasty
Shoulder meat was lean and fine-textured, with a subtle savoriness.
Our second bottle was the 1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which was nice to compare with the '89 above. To start, the bouquet here went in a musty, iron-y direction, with a backing of dark fruit, all leading to flavors of sour cherries laced with barnyard. Further time resulted in tertiary, sulfurous, and meaty aromas, but with a palate of omnipresent red berry. On the flip side, my final glass was surprisingly vivacious and herbaceous on the nose, and tasted of tart fruit, earth, and leather.
Kawara ~ Shoulder Clod ~ [$29.00] | Marbled and Lean mixed
This next cut of beef had a bit more chew, and took particularly well to a healthy dosing of sear and smoke.
Marukaburi ~ Inside Knuckle ~ [$29.00] | Chewy but juicy
This lean-ish cut was lovely, showing off a very familiar, "classic" beefiness.
Wagyu Yukke ~ Marinated raw wagyu ~ [$24.00] | Sculpture of wagyu
Tsuruichi's take on yukhoe featured slightly chewy, substantial cuts of beef set in a sweet-n-savory marinade, accented by both a well-placed pepperiness and the crunch of pine nut.
Lean Platter [$140.00] | Uchihira, Kuri, Kamenoko, Shinshin, Rump
The aka platter served as a counterpoint to the marbled meat selection above.
Uchi hira ~ Top Round ~ | Moderate marble & Bland
Topside was arguably the leanest cut of the night, but was eminently satisfying nonetheless, with a very comforting savor.
Kuri ~ Shoulder Clod ~ | Moderate marble and Juicy
Chuck tender arrived with a firm-yet-yielding consistency, and developed a particularly rich, smoky taste on the grill.
Assorted Seasoned Vegetable [$8.00] | Spinach, Bean sprouts, Daikon, Royal fern
We also made sure to sample Tsuruichi's quartet of namuru. Going left to right:
- A version of musaengchae had a proper crunch, and took well to the nuttiness from the sesame.
- Spinach came out bright and refreshing, with a "stringy" consistency.
- The kongnamul was pretty much textbook.
- I was also a fan of the gosari, with its tender mouthfeel and spot-on saltiness.
Uwamisuji ~ Shoulder Clod ~ | Queen of beef
Another cut of shoulder just might've been my favorite of the lean meats thanks to its super sophisticated savor.
Our third and final wine was the 1986 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, which I believe was an ex-chateau bottling. On the nose, the Bordeaux was all about assertive, juicy berry backed by a noticeable mustiness. Taking a sip, I found nearly impenetrably dark fruit intertwined with candied notes and nutty, earthy elements. With time, the claret actually evolved quite a bit. Aromas became much more floral, but still with plenty of that vibrant fruit, while the palate softened up and offered considerably more menthol in a surprising young, vivacious package.
Uchi hira ~ Top Round ~ | Moderate marble & Bland
The kitchen had run out of some of the cuts that were supposed to be in our lean platter, so we were given a second serving of the uchihira, and this one seemed to be far more mineral-driven than the first.
Rump ~ Sirloin Butt ~ | Juicy & Tasty
The final meat from the lean platter ate tender and tasty, with a clean, restrained beefiness.
Wagyu Sashimi [$24.00] | A harmony of Japanese yam and wagyu
Beef sashimi was a tad chewier than I would've preferred, though taste-wise, the pairing of nori and wasabi made a lot of sense, with the mountain yam serving to soften the flavors at play.
Onion Tongue [$23.00]
Our second serving of tan was somewhat tougher than the first, but I very much enjoyed the zesty contrast offered up by the green onion.
Iberico Secreto [$17.00]
The evening's lone cut of butaniku really delivered thanks to its juiciness and mouthwateringly pork-y goodness.
Beef Heart [$13.00]
Last up was the hatsu, which boasted that slightly gamey taste I was seeking.
Hojicha had all the roastiness I was expecting, and was also somewhat more floral than usual.
Tsuruichi made quite a strong showing for itself tonight. Essentially, the restaurant offers all that I like about Tsuruhashi, but with higher-end cuts of meat, in a more pleasant environment. I feel pretty comfortable deeming this place the top yakiniku spot in Orange County, and I'm certain that I'll be back.
posted by kevinEats at
5:30 PM
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