Bar Becky (Long Beach, CA)
Bar Becky at Long Beach Exchange
3860 Worsham Ave, Long Beach, CA 90846
562-421-0200
www.barbecky.com
Sun 12/29/2024, 06:40p-09:00p
It'd been a while since my last meal in LBC, and my latest dinner in the city brought me to a spot that came highly recommended by a reader of this blog. Bar Becky is the creation of Chef Johnathan Benvenuti (the place is named after his late mother, Rebecca Benvenuti) and Beverage Director Jason Scarborough, in partnership with Ross Pangilinan, whom you might know from Mix Mix, Terrace by Mix Mix, Populaire, and Verdant. The restaurant actually takes over the old home of Pangilinan's ReMix Kitchen Bar, which had opened right before the pandemic but never really found an audience. As for the food at Bar Becky, I'd describe it as an updated version of Italian-American fare.
About the Team: Johnathan David Benvenuti was born in August 1993 and hails from Huntington Beach, CA. He got interested in food early on, and in fact, some of his first memories involve cooking with his mother. Right after high school, his mom even helped him practice for a knife skills competition organized by Cypress College. After coming in at first place, he spoke with judge Jeremy Peters, a chef/instructor at the community college, and soon enrolled in the culinary arts program there, during which time he actually staged at Playground under Zach Scherer. Scherer wasn't able to offer him a job though, and thus Benvenuti wound up working in New York for a bit after graduation.
After returning home to Orange County, he served as sous at The Capital Grille and also joined King's Seafood Company, where he helped open Water Grill in Costa Mesa (which debuted in October 2016). From there, he worked at Broadway by Amar Santana down in Laguna Beach for a couple years, but was laid off during the pandemic. A while later, the casting team from Hell's Kitchen reached out to the Chef, and he was subsequently tapped to compete on season 22 of the show, which was filmed over three weeks in February 2022. In October 2022, Benvenuti was recruited by Paséa Hotel & Spa in Huntington Beach to serve as the property's CdC, under Executive Chef James (JJ) Burton.
However, he didn't stay long, and by March 2023, had already moved over to DTSA's Trust as sous; he also helped out with Scherer's Chrysalis events around this time. Benvenuti's episodes of Hell's Kitchen started airing in September 2023, and once the show had wrapped up at the end of January, he had secured a second-place finish in the competition. Two days after the finale, Scarborough informed him of an opportunity to hold a pop-up at ReMix, as Pangilinan was looking to retool the restaurant. The duo accepted, and the first dinner was held on Valentine's Day. It was a success, as were subsequent ones, and thus ReMix officially transitioned to Bar Becky on April 5th.
And speaking of Scarborough, the man in charge of the beverage program was born in December 1974, and comes from a half-Italian background. From 1993 to 1997, he attended Macalester College in Saint Paul, MN, achieving a bachelor's degree in religious studies, then enrolled at Union Theological Seminary at Columbia University, eventually attaining a PhD in history. After finishing up his studies, he worked at Veritas with Scott Bryan, then served as opening service director-slash-sommelier at John Fraser's Dovetail, which bowed at the end of 2007.
However, Scarborough later relocated to OC, and in May 2010, started a year-long tenure as sommelier at Rustica, located in Fashion Island. Next, he was AGM at Pizzeria Mozza until October 2013, and then GM at Pizzeria Ortica until June 2017. Six months as beverage director at Habana in Irvine was next, followed by a stint as a culinary consultant. In October 2018, Scarborough became manager at Louie's by the Bay in Newport Beach, and from there, joined the team at Playground 2.0. He remained sommelier until July 2023, when he decamped to work as sales director for Tanaro River Imports, an Irvine-based wine importer/distributor.
Meanwhile, in charge of the front-of-the-house tonight was Anthony Benvenuti (b. April 1991), who just happens to be John's older brother. The Edison High School (c/o '10) grad got his start at Zubies Dry Dock, a local seafood joint Huntington Beach, and actually worked with John at multiple restaurants, including The Capital Grille and Water Grill. Meanwhile, bartending duties were handled by Jona Nguyen, who started at Bar Becky just recently, having previously worked at Girl & the Goat. Rounding out the team are Damien, sous chef Kat (replacing Zachary Soares, who left in July), and cooks Orianna and Patrick Lim.
As mentioned above, Bar Becky takes over the LBX storefront of ReMix Kitchen Bar. The space has been refreshed, but no drastic changes have been made.
Here we see the menu, which features Benvenuti's takes on Italian-American cuisine, and there's even a three-course prix fixe option if you're looking for something more value-oriented. To drink, you get some pretty interesting cocktails, a smattering of beers, and a wine list focused on Californian and Italian bottlings. Click for larger versions.
Mediterranean Octopus [$18.00] | Becky's potato salad, celery, salami
Octopus is always a must-order for me, and tonight's version definitely delivered. I was impressed by the octo's tender, satisfying texture and crisp-charred crust, while the potato salad functioned as a creamy counterpoint, perked up by the zing of celery. Also a pleasant surprise: the salty, chewy bits of salami in there.
Nakatomi Tower [$16.00] | Clarified Milk Punch, Cocao Rum, Pineapple, Lime, Licor 43, Egg Nog Spice
Regular readers will know that I can't resist a clarified milk punch, hence this first cocktail. The drink was silky smooth on the palate and teeming with sweet, wintery spices, making it very apropos for the holiday season.
Hamachi Crudo [$20.00] | persimmon, hazelnut, chili crunch
The yellowtail was another standout thanks to how well the fish played with all the dish's sweet-n-sour elements and creeping pepperiness, all while there was this nutty crunch layered on top of everything. A clever take on an oft played out dish.
Chicken Noodle Soup [$16.00] | chicken meatballs, fennel seed, winter vegetables, ditalini
The chicken noodle soup was a properly cozy, homey sort of dish fit for the chilly weather we'd been having. The broth itself managed to be both light and potent, and when combined with those slick bits of pasta, reminded my dining companion of tortellini in brodo, while those delicately-spiced meatballs recalled shīzitóu.
To the Moon! [$16.00] | Rosaluna Espadin, Licor 43, Lemon, Aquafaba, Olive Oil
The evening's second cocktail featured a nose that clearly displayed the smokiness of mezcal, though its palate was much easier-going, veering in a sweet, fragrant, fruity direction, with just a hint of the advertised olive oil.
Seared Scallops [$22.00] | grape tapenade, pine nuts, tarragon
Scallops arrived super tender and subtly briny, with a healthy amount of caramelization to boot. The crux here was the use of grapes, which imparted this juicy sweet-tartness that uplifted the dish in an unexpected manner.
Duck Confit [$18.00] | bacon, leeks, beans, chili, persimmon chutney
Here, I was a big fan of the duck's deep, dark, savory flavors, while the bird's crisp exterior actually reminded me of ròusōng in certain bites. Given the confit's forcefulness, the beans were crucial for contrast, especially when taken with those bitter greens. I will say, though, that I didn't need that chutney, which seemed overly sweet.
The Annie Marie [$16.00] | Jim Beam Rye, Amaro Nonino, Lemon, Red Wine Float
This riff on a New York sour was relatively easy-drinking, and even a bit tropical-leaning at times, with a nice back-and-forth between the amaro and citrus, all while the wine imparted additional facets to the cocktail.
Branzino [$30.00] | parsnip, wild mushroom beurre blanc
The seabass was another winner, arriving with moist, flavorful flesh and crispy, salty skin. The fish was delicious alone, though I didn't mind the mushroom-boosted beurre blanc, while the fried parsnips had this almost coffee-esque sweetness.
Strozzapreti [$28.00] | lamb, crème fraîche, zucchini, fennel pollen
"Priest choker" pasta was on point texturally, and served as an apt foil for soft shards of rich, heady lamb. Also appreciated were the greens, which imparted an offsetting bitterness.
The Industrialist [$20.00] | Blended Scotch and Bourbon, Marasca, House Vermouth, Angostura Bitters
Next up was undoubtedly the booziest cocktail of the lot. A Manhattan-ish concoction, this featured the one-two punch of bourbon and scotch, making for a bevy of smoky, astringent, herbaceous, and dark fruit notes, all leading to a distinct nuttiness on the finish.
Squid Ink Cavatelli [$30.00] | shrimp, scallop, octopus, Calabrian breadcrumbs, white wine, cream
Cavatelli showed off a thoroughly gratifying chew, and really set the stage for the interaction between the well-cooked, oceany bits of seafood and the dish's creamier, spicier elements. Lovely crunch from those breadcrumbs, too.
Chicken Parmesan [$26.00] | tomato gravy, mutz
I don't even remember the last time I had chicken parmigiana, but I was curious to try it tonight. The dish showed off all the classic, comfy flavors I was looking for, with a spot-on marriage of tomato and mozzarella along with a properly crispy breaded crust. My quibble here, though, was that the cutlet was a touch dry in spots.
Worsham Boulevardier [$18.00] | Pork-Washed Jim Beam Bourbon, Campari, House Vermouth
Moving into the negroni section of the cocktail list now, we have here a variation of the boulevardier. Its signature bittersweetness was certainly on display, while the contribution from the pork was subtle, with the meat treatment imparting mere hints of spice and savor to the drink.
With the savories done with, it was now time to take a look at Bar Becky's dessert menu and selection of after-dinner beverages. Click for a larger version.
Dirty Chai Tiramisu [$16.00] | chiffon, espresso powder, mascarpone, raspberry
Tiramisu came out utterly saturated, and teeming with sweet, warming, aromatic spices, while the coffee was relatively subdued. I was also quite a fan of those raspberry bits, which made for some fun, fruity accents.
The Red Dahlia [$18.00] | Espadin Mezcal, Campari, House Vermouth, Chocolate Bitters
Our final cocktail was another negroni variation, one that did a nice job melding the drink's bittersweet nature with smoky mezcal and the assertiveness of those chocolate bitters.
Chocolate Budino [$15.00] | almond, toasted meringue, vanilla olive oil
The considerable heft of a chocolate pudding was evened out by that marshmallow-y meringue as well as the nutty crunch of sliced almonds.
Matilda Cake [$15.00] | chocolate buttercream, semisweet chocolate, chantilly
Our final dessert ended up being comped, I'm assuming because we ordered so much. It was also my favorite of the three. The key here was simply how elegantly the chocolate was conveyed, especially when combined with that superb vanilla ice cream.
I was quite happy with my meal at Bar Becky, and the place is certainly one of the top Long Beach openings that we've seen over the past couple of years. Benvenuti's cooking draws smartly from both his Italian-American upbringing and his varied training, and the Chef was able to deliver plates that demonstrated both comfort and creativity in a casual-yet-careful manner. The restaurant is a win for the neighborhood, and is something that this section of LBC can really benefit from. Given the quality of this meal, I might have to check out Bar Becky's Chef's Counter tasting menu, a seven-course affair offered only on Friday and Saturday evenings.
3860 Worsham Ave, Long Beach, CA 90846
562-421-0200
www.barbecky.com
Sun 12/29/2024, 06:40p-09:00p
It'd been a while since my last meal in LBC, and my latest dinner in the city brought me to a spot that came highly recommended by a reader of this blog. Bar Becky is the creation of Chef Johnathan Benvenuti (the place is named after his late mother, Rebecca Benvenuti) and Beverage Director Jason Scarborough, in partnership with Ross Pangilinan, whom you might know from Mix Mix, Terrace by Mix Mix, Populaire, and Verdant. The restaurant actually takes over the old home of Pangilinan's ReMix Kitchen Bar, which had opened right before the pandemic but never really found an audience. As for the food at Bar Becky, I'd describe it as an updated version of Italian-American fare.
About the Team: Johnathan David Benvenuti was born in August 1993 and hails from Huntington Beach, CA. He got interested in food early on, and in fact, some of his first memories involve cooking with his mother. Right after high school, his mom even helped him practice for a knife skills competition organized by Cypress College. After coming in at first place, he spoke with judge Jeremy Peters, a chef/instructor at the community college, and soon enrolled in the culinary arts program there, during which time he actually staged at Playground under Zach Scherer. Scherer wasn't able to offer him a job though, and thus Benvenuti wound up working in New York for a bit after graduation.
After returning home to Orange County, he served as sous at The Capital Grille and also joined King's Seafood Company, where he helped open Water Grill in Costa Mesa (which debuted in October 2016). From there, he worked at Broadway by Amar Santana down in Laguna Beach for a couple years, but was laid off during the pandemic. A while later, the casting team from Hell's Kitchen reached out to the Chef, and he was subsequently tapped to compete on season 22 of the show, which was filmed over three weeks in February 2022. In October 2022, Benvenuti was recruited by Paséa Hotel & Spa in Huntington Beach to serve as the property's CdC, under Executive Chef James (JJ) Burton.
However, he didn't stay long, and by March 2023, had already moved over to DTSA's Trust as sous; he also helped out with Scherer's Chrysalis events around this time. Benvenuti's episodes of Hell's Kitchen started airing in September 2023, and once the show had wrapped up at the end of January, he had secured a second-place finish in the competition. Two days after the finale, Scarborough informed him of an opportunity to hold a pop-up at ReMix, as Pangilinan was looking to retool the restaurant. The duo accepted, and the first dinner was held on Valentine's Day. It was a success, as were subsequent ones, and thus ReMix officially transitioned to Bar Becky on April 5th.
And speaking of Scarborough, the man in charge of the beverage program was born in December 1974, and comes from a half-Italian background. From 1993 to 1997, he attended Macalester College in Saint Paul, MN, achieving a bachelor's degree in religious studies, then enrolled at Union Theological Seminary at Columbia University, eventually attaining a PhD in history. After finishing up his studies, he worked at Veritas with Scott Bryan, then served as opening service director-slash-sommelier at John Fraser's Dovetail, which bowed at the end of 2007.
However, Scarborough later relocated to OC, and in May 2010, started a year-long tenure as sommelier at Rustica, located in Fashion Island. Next, he was AGM at Pizzeria Mozza until October 2013, and then GM at Pizzeria Ortica until June 2017. Six months as beverage director at Habana in Irvine was next, followed by a stint as a culinary consultant. In October 2018, Scarborough became manager at Louie's by the Bay in Newport Beach, and from there, joined the team at Playground 2.0. He remained sommelier until July 2023, when he decamped to work as sales director for Tanaro River Imports, an Irvine-based wine importer/distributor.
Meanwhile, in charge of the front-of-the-house tonight was Anthony Benvenuti (b. April 1991), who just happens to be John's older brother. The Edison High School (c/o '10) grad got his start at Zubies Dry Dock, a local seafood joint Huntington Beach, and actually worked with John at multiple restaurants, including The Capital Grille and Water Grill. Meanwhile, bartending duties were handled by Jona Nguyen, who started at Bar Becky just recently, having previously worked at Girl & the Goat. Rounding out the team are Damien, sous chef Kat (replacing Zachary Soares, who left in July), and cooks Orianna and Patrick Lim.
As mentioned above, Bar Becky takes over the LBX storefront of ReMix Kitchen Bar. The space has been refreshed, but no drastic changes have been made.
Here we see the menu, which features Benvenuti's takes on Italian-American cuisine, and there's even a three-course prix fixe option if you're looking for something more value-oriented. To drink, you get some pretty interesting cocktails, a smattering of beers, and a wine list focused on Californian and Italian bottlings. Click for larger versions.
Mediterranean Octopus [$18.00] | Becky's potato salad, celery, salami
Octopus is always a must-order for me, and tonight's version definitely delivered. I was impressed by the octo's tender, satisfying texture and crisp-charred crust, while the potato salad functioned as a creamy counterpoint, perked up by the zing of celery. Also a pleasant surprise: the salty, chewy bits of salami in there.
Nakatomi Tower [$16.00] | Clarified Milk Punch, Cocao Rum, Pineapple, Lime, Licor 43, Egg Nog Spice
Regular readers will know that I can't resist a clarified milk punch, hence this first cocktail. The drink was silky smooth on the palate and teeming with sweet, wintery spices, making it very apropos for the holiday season.
Hamachi Crudo [$20.00] | persimmon, hazelnut, chili crunch
The yellowtail was another standout thanks to how well the fish played with all the dish's sweet-n-sour elements and creeping pepperiness, all while there was this nutty crunch layered on top of everything. A clever take on an oft played out dish.
Chicken Noodle Soup [$16.00] | chicken meatballs, fennel seed, winter vegetables, ditalini
The chicken noodle soup was a properly cozy, homey sort of dish fit for the chilly weather we'd been having. The broth itself managed to be both light and potent, and when combined with those slick bits of pasta, reminded my dining companion of tortellini in brodo, while those delicately-spiced meatballs recalled shīzitóu.
To the Moon! [$16.00] | Rosaluna Espadin, Licor 43, Lemon, Aquafaba, Olive Oil
The evening's second cocktail featured a nose that clearly displayed the smokiness of mezcal, though its palate was much easier-going, veering in a sweet, fragrant, fruity direction, with just a hint of the advertised olive oil.
Seared Scallops [$22.00] | grape tapenade, pine nuts, tarragon
Scallops arrived super tender and subtly briny, with a healthy amount of caramelization to boot. The crux here was the use of grapes, which imparted this juicy sweet-tartness that uplifted the dish in an unexpected manner.
Duck Confit [$18.00] | bacon, leeks, beans, chili, persimmon chutney
Here, I was a big fan of the duck's deep, dark, savory flavors, while the bird's crisp exterior actually reminded me of ròusōng in certain bites. Given the confit's forcefulness, the beans were crucial for contrast, especially when taken with those bitter greens. I will say, though, that I didn't need that chutney, which seemed overly sweet.
The Annie Marie [$16.00] | Jim Beam Rye, Amaro Nonino, Lemon, Red Wine Float
This riff on a New York sour was relatively easy-drinking, and even a bit tropical-leaning at times, with a nice back-and-forth between the amaro and citrus, all while the wine imparted additional facets to the cocktail.
Branzino [$30.00] | parsnip, wild mushroom beurre blanc
The seabass was another winner, arriving with moist, flavorful flesh and crispy, salty skin. The fish was delicious alone, though I didn't mind the mushroom-boosted beurre blanc, while the fried parsnips had this almost coffee-esque sweetness.
Strozzapreti [$28.00] | lamb, crème fraîche, zucchini, fennel pollen
"Priest choker" pasta was on point texturally, and served as an apt foil for soft shards of rich, heady lamb. Also appreciated were the greens, which imparted an offsetting bitterness.
The Industrialist [$20.00] | Blended Scotch and Bourbon, Marasca, House Vermouth, Angostura Bitters
Next up was undoubtedly the booziest cocktail of the lot. A Manhattan-ish concoction, this featured the one-two punch of bourbon and scotch, making for a bevy of smoky, astringent, herbaceous, and dark fruit notes, all leading to a distinct nuttiness on the finish.
Squid Ink Cavatelli [$30.00] | shrimp, scallop, octopus, Calabrian breadcrumbs, white wine, cream
Cavatelli showed off a thoroughly gratifying chew, and really set the stage for the interaction between the well-cooked, oceany bits of seafood and the dish's creamier, spicier elements. Lovely crunch from those breadcrumbs, too.
Chicken Parmesan [$26.00] | tomato gravy, mutz
I don't even remember the last time I had chicken parmigiana, but I was curious to try it tonight. The dish showed off all the classic, comfy flavors I was looking for, with a spot-on marriage of tomato and mozzarella along with a properly crispy breaded crust. My quibble here, though, was that the cutlet was a touch dry in spots.
Worsham Boulevardier [$18.00] | Pork-Washed Jim Beam Bourbon, Campari, House Vermouth
Moving into the negroni section of the cocktail list now, we have here a variation of the boulevardier. Its signature bittersweetness was certainly on display, while the contribution from the pork was subtle, with the meat treatment imparting mere hints of spice and savor to the drink.
With the savories done with, it was now time to take a look at Bar Becky's dessert menu and selection of after-dinner beverages. Click for a larger version.
Dirty Chai Tiramisu [$16.00] | chiffon, espresso powder, mascarpone, raspberry
Tiramisu came out utterly saturated, and teeming with sweet, warming, aromatic spices, while the coffee was relatively subdued. I was also quite a fan of those raspberry bits, which made for some fun, fruity accents.
The Red Dahlia [$18.00] | Espadin Mezcal, Campari, House Vermouth, Chocolate Bitters
Our final cocktail was another negroni variation, one that did a nice job melding the drink's bittersweet nature with smoky mezcal and the assertiveness of those chocolate bitters.
Chocolate Budino [$15.00] | almond, toasted meringue, vanilla olive oil
The considerable heft of a chocolate pudding was evened out by that marshmallow-y meringue as well as the nutty crunch of sliced almonds.
Matilda Cake [$15.00] | chocolate buttercream, semisweet chocolate, chantilly
Our final dessert ended up being comped, I'm assuming because we ordered so much. It was also my favorite of the three. The key here was simply how elegantly the chocolate was conveyed, especially when combined with that superb vanilla ice cream.
I was quite happy with my meal at Bar Becky, and the place is certainly one of the top Long Beach openings that we've seen over the past couple of years. Benvenuti's cooking draws smartly from both his Italian-American upbringing and his varied training, and the Chef was able to deliver plates that demonstrated both comfort and creativity in a casual-yet-careful manner. The restaurant is a win for the neighborhood, and is something that this section of LBC can really benefit from. Given the quality of this meal, I might have to check out Bar Becky's Chef's Counter tasting menu, a seven-course affair offered only on Friday and Saturday evenings.
posted by kevinEats at
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