Darkroom (Santa Ana, CA)
Dark Room Restaurant
3751 S Harbor Blvd, Santa Ana, CA 92704
657-777-3275
www.wearedarkroom.com
Fri 12/20/2024, 05:40p-08:40p
I've often bemoaned the lack of more ambitious restaurants in Orange County, but a new spot that's bucking the trend is Darkroom, which opened on the western edge of Santa Ana in early September. The place comes to us from Zach Scherer (whom I first encountered at Playground all the way back in 2012) and Andrew "Drew" Adams (last seen at Bello in Newport), who have been working together since late 2017. The duo has envisioned their own concept of contemporary California cuisine, drawing from both Asian and Hispanic traditions, with a smidge of Nordic sensibility for good measure. It all sounded very intriguing, so I was excited to give Darkroom a try.
About the Chefs: Zachary Owen Scherer was born in September 1987 and grew in Ramona, on the outskirts of San Diego. Early on, he was mostly interested in music and video gaming, but decided to pursue a career in cooking instead. Following high school, he attended the Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Pasadena from 2006, earning his AOS degree in October 2008. Scherer eventually joined the team at Vizzi Truck in February 2010, and helped launch the food truck a month later. In January 2011, he returned to SD to work the line at Georges California Modern, the main dining room at Georges at the Cove in La Jolla, but only stayed for nine months. From there, he moved to OC to become Chef de Cuisine at The Hotel Hanford in Costa Mesa (now the Crowne Plaza), then transitioned to a line cook position at Playground in March 2012. He was able to work his way up, reaching the rank of CdC, but left in January 2015.
Scherer's next move was to the Haven restaurant group, where he remained for a year before decamping in March 2016. He then consulted at Newport Beach's Balboa Bay Club for six months before becoming banquet chef at the nearby Big Canyon Country Club. September 2017 saw him take on the opening Executive Chef role at The Country Club in Costa Mesa, which debuted that December; he later became Corporate Chef for parent company Lounge Group in February 2019. Scherer left in August 2020 to serve as CdC at Bello by Sandro Nardone in Newport Beach, and in February 2021, was given the chance to institute Bello Chef's Table, a higher-end tasting counter concept that was largely well-received.
However, he exited in August 2023, and was replaced by his sous, who was none other than Adams (see my Bello Chef's Table post for his background). Scherer then started work on a pop-up by the name of Chrysalis that he'd been dreaming of for years. The first event took place that September at the home of Heirloom Potager in Santa Ana, and the dinner series eventually collaborated with the likes of The Watson Ranch in Fallbrook, Everywhere Beer in Orange, Honey Pot Meadery in Anaheim, Trust in Santa Ana, The Parlor at Stafford Prime in Tustin, Radiant Beer in Anaheim, Blind Rabbit in Anaheim, and Bear Coast Coffee in Laguna Beach. In February this year, Adams withdrew from Bello to join forces with Scherer, and the two took over the current restaurant space in April, transforming it into Darkroom and officially opening up for business on September 10th.
Darkroom resides at the somewhat dreary Harbor Promenade complex, inside a storefront that was previously home to the likes of Beyond the Baguette, The Scotchery, Public Steak, and 8 Steers. The space has definitely been spiffed up considerably, and was apparently built by the partners themselves. The dark-toned aesthetic is certainly befitting of the restaurant's name.
Here we see Darkroom's menu, which is somewhat lengthier than I'd expected, but reads very enticingly. It's one of those menus where I want to order everything, and so that's basically what we did. As for the beverages, you'll find a pretty interesting selection of wines, a handful of beers, as well as low-ABV (tiki-inspired) cocktails based on apéritifs and fortified wines. Meanwhile, the corkage situation is something that I'd never seen before. Instead of being priced per bottle, it's instead a flat fee of $40 per person, which is helpful if you want to pop a lot of bottles. Note that we were only charged twice for a party of four, perhaps because we shared our booze generously with the staff. Click for larger versions.
SCALLOP tostada, marigold vinaigrette, flowers [$21.00]
Dinner started off strong with this rejiggered tostada that combined the cool brine of scallop and the astringent warmth of marigold, with that whole interaction moderated by a delightfully toasty, decidedly masa-forward tortilla.
Over the past couple years, I'd had a dozen Barrelworks beers taking up space in my fridge, and given Darkroom's corkage policy, this meal seemed like a good excuse to drink 'em all. First up was the 2017 Firestone Walker Sour Opal Batch #3, a gueuze-inspired, oak-aged American wild ale. As expected, the nose here was filled with ripe stone fruits commingled with plenty of Brett-y yeast. The beer certainly perked up the palate, delivering more of those peach-like nuances along with plenty of crispness, sourness, and acidity.
HAMACHI, ajo blanco, squid ink, grapes, market lettuce [$26.00]
The yellowtail was a table favorite. I think the key here was how the creamy, nutty nature of the ajoblanco so effectively harmonized with the fish, which was also bolstered by the salt and savor of squid ink. At the same time, the lettuce imparted a crucial brightness, and I liked the sweet, juicy contributions from the grapes, too.
Beer-wise, the 2021 Firestone Walker Berry Cherry Cobbler Batch #1 was definitely a highlight. An American wild ale fermented with local blackberries, Montmorency cherries, and Madagascar vanilla, this one smelled wondrously sour and funky, with "seedy" berries and hints of coconut to boot. Taste-wise, I got loads of tart, savory, musty red fruit, and the overall effect actually reminded me of suānméi in the best way possible.
TUNA CRUDO (2), potato darphin(ette), mustards, dill [$16.00]
Crudo can often seem a bit played out these days, but Darkroom's managed to be another favorite thanks to how beautifully the fish melded with those cozy medallions of pommes darphin, with the herbs serving to lighten the mood.
Trinidad Sour [$17.00] | house vermouth, marcona almond orgeat, a play on the classic
At this point, we took a bit of a detour from the beers and ordered a round of cocktails (the creations of Gianna M). This one here was my favorite of the bunch, and curiously enough, actually reminded me of "fruit on the bottom" yogurt, but tinged by warm, lingering spices.
little gem CAESAR, comte, matcha nori crunchies, pistachio [$17.00]
This was the smartest riff on Caesar salad I've seen in a while, and really did do a great job recalling its classic inspiration. I loved the crunchy textures going on here, as well as the bevy of bright, bitter, briny flavors all happening at the same time.
Mint to Tell Yu [$17.00] | it's a yuzu mojito, our style
Despite being described as a mojito (my cocktail of choice in the mid-2000s), this didn't really taste all that much like the traditional drink. Rather, I got more of a softly grassy, bittersweet character, which I didn't mind.
STEAK TARTARE, jalapeno, umami sweet stuff, creme fraiche, endive [$22.00]
The beef tartare was another winner. The steak itself was just what I wanted texturally, and there was also this pungency and heat that enveloped the meat, making it a perfect counterpoint to the crunch of those bitter endives.
What's in Your Head [$17.00] | gochujang, grapefruit, makrut lime
The presence of gochujang certain piqued our interest in this next cocktail. The chili paste imparted a marked complexity to the drink, but wasn't super in-your-face, and meshed pretty seamlessly with the fruit.
weiser farms POTATO SALAD, mike & son's egg, dill smoked trout roe [$18.00]
Regular readers will know that I'm a sucker for potato salad, and I'm happy to report that this was a first-rate rendition. The taters were on point in terms of texture, and I was definitely into the herby, grassy nuances contributed by the dill, as well as the lusciousness of that runny egg. However, I think the crux here was the ikura, which imparted a wonderful smoke to the dish.
Sherrycolada [$17.00] | coconut sherry, burnt pineapple, coconut, lime
Our final cocktail was this take on the piña colada. Think creamy, tropical, with a spicy edge, and eminently quaffable.
slow roasted CARROTS, "50/50 bar" buttermilk, satsuma [$16.00]
Carrots arrived nearly melt-in-my-mouth tender, but fortunately, also came with some crispy, smoky bits to keep things interesting. The buttermilk made more sense than I thought it would, but even more surprising was the satsuma, which made for a bright, citrusy, juicy counterpoint that wasn't nearly as jarring as I'd feared.
Getting back to the beers now, here was the 2019 Firestone Walker Bretta Blanc Batch #2, a wild ale fermented with white grape juice. Described as a sort of beer/wine hybrid, this was the funkiest, the mustiest of the lot in terms of bouquet. That being said, the palate wasn't nearly as aggressive, giving up tart, dry, vinous elements interspersed with tropical fruits.
manila CLAMS, dry aged beef panang, focaccia [$23.00]
Clams came out expertly cooked, set in a spicy, coconut-laden broth that did an admirable job conveying the essence of the dish's phanaeng inspiration while never getting in the way of the bivalves. Also of note was the focaccia, which was perhaps the most saturated piece of bread I've ever encountered; I'm still not sure if I liked it that way or not.
The 2016 Firestone Walker Krieky Bones Batch #3 was a Flanders red ale-style beer aged in oak foeders and fermented with Montmorency cherries. Aromas here went in a tart, funky, musty direction, but with omnipresent spiced cherries. Taking a sip, I got plenty more sour cherry, but supported by a layer of warm, cinnamon-y baking spices.
fried SCOTCH OLIVES, anchovy, merguez, sumac yogurt [$14.00]
What we had here were essentially miniaturized Scotch eggs, which, given my penchant for sausage, I thoroughly enjoyed. The duo of merguez and anchovy certainly worked for me, and I liked how the sharpness from the olives was restrained, as well as how the yogurt lightened things up just enough. Do note that this dish ended up being comped, I'm assuming because we'd ordered so much.
A collaboration beer created with Belgium's Liefmans Brewery, the 2018 Firestone Walker West Odnar Batch #1 was an oud bruin-inspired wild ale aged in French (75%) and American (25%) oak. The nose here highlighted the sweet, spicy, and funky facets of red fruit, while palate-wise, I found spiced brown sugar commingled with a soft maltiness, more fruit, and plenty of acidity.
ROSALBA, toasted peanut, macadamia & chili dressing [$14.00]
Pink-hued leaves of rosalba were a treat visually. Texturally, I appreciated the radicchio's soft, tender mouthfeel, while taste-wise, their decidedly bittersweet flavors paired swimmingly with the dish's nutty heat. However, I was left wondering if things might've been even better with a bit of char and smoke on the chicory.
The 2017 Firestone Walker Bretta Weisse Batch #3 was a Berliner Weisse-style wheat beer aged in French oak. Surprisingly, it actually demonstrated the most overtly sour nose of the night. On the palate, the ale was on the lighter side, its grain-y flavors joined by a crisp, pervasive tartness.
shrimp & crab stuffed PIQUILLO PEPPERS (2), black "pil pil", fig leaf oil [$23.00]
Piquillos offered a welcomed sweet piquancy that worked hand-in-hand with the salinity of the seafood, while the pil pil sauce imparted further oomph to the dish. Big fan of those fried crunchy bits, too.
Next to imbibe was a wild ale fermented with nectarines and apricots, the 2021 Firestone Walker Frazzle Sass Batch #1, created in collaboration with Fonta Flora Brewery out of Morganton, NC. To no one's surprise, the beer showcased aromas of tart stone fruits intertwined with plenty of yeastiness. In the mouth, think bright, bold, and acidic, its healthy dosing of sweet, juicy fruit offset by plenty of sourness.
"nashville hot" SWORDFISH, cucumber shiro slaw, jimmy nardello gribiche [$41.00]
The swordfish might've been the most tender I've ever had, and also showcased a delightfully crunchy exterior that actually reminded me of the fish sticks of my childhood. The fish's delicate flavors were contrasted by the sweet-tanginess of those cucumbers, while a pepper-infused sauce gribiche helped tie it all together.
The 2017 Firestone Walker Agrestic Batch #4 was an American wild red ale that actually started its life as an English pale ale. Transformed by barrel aging and various microflora, the beer was by far the most mineral-driven on the nose, while also displaying the expected earthy and dark berry aromas. Tasting it, I found it very familiar somehow, with plenty more tart fruit swirling around with malty sweetness, oak, and lots more of that minerality.
smoked and confit MAITAKE MUSHROOM, "kind of chimichurri", buckwheat [$17.00]
Hen-of-the-woods had that slightly chewy, "feathery" texture I was hoping for, along with a woodsy, smoky quality that married easily with the zestiness of that chimichurri-ish condiment. However, my favorite thing here just might've been the buckwheat, which actually made me think of bacon bits.
Beer-wise, the 2021 Firestone Walker Nec Bones Batch #2 was another standout. A French oak-aged American wild ale fermented with local Honey Fire nectarines, this exhibited huge amounts of juicy, sugary stone fruit on the nose. In the mouth, the ale possessed this candied, almost Jolly Rancher-esque nectarine character, but also enough sourness and earthiness to keep things in check.
smoked DUCK BREAST, amaro jus, juniper oil, horseradish, beets [$46.00]
Duck arrived with well-rendered skin, while flavors were deep, intense, concentrated, with loads of that anatine funk I was seeking, along with tinges of sweet spices. However, the combo of amaro and beet was a bit too aggressive for me, and tended to distract from the bird.
Brewed in collaboration with The Wild Beer Co in England, the 2019 Firestone Walker Violet Underground Batch #2 was a wild ale aged in wine barrels with raspberries and candied violet petals. This one conveyed a flower-y sourness on the nose, while in terms of taste, I found a very agreeable back-and-forth between tart berry and the floral qualities of the violet.
Beeler's PORK TOMAHAWK, delicata jerk, coconut & macadamia XO [$44.00]
A bone-in pork chop was spot-on taste-wise, its porcine goodness playing well with the heady flavors of an XO that actually reminded me of shacha sauce. I also appreciated the use of delicata squash, which had a tangy, sweet-n-spicy character than helped lighten things up a bit. My one quibble here was that the pork was a touch dry in spots.
The penultimate Barrelworks brew was the 2019 Firestone Walker Champs de Fraises Batch #3, a French oak-aged wild ale fermented with strawberries. The beer smelled of tart strawberry vitamins, and I mean that in a good way. On the palate, the fruit was actually more subdued, and instead, I got this nearly blue cheese-esque funkiness supported by plenty more sourness and acidity.
braised heirloom BROCCOLINI, tehachapi polenta, mushroom butter, tarragon zhug [$16.00]
I'd say that this was the least successful dish of the night. I wanted more texture on the broccolini, and while I enjoyed its bitterness, the veggie was somewhat overwhelmed by the polenta, which veered overly sweet.
A lambic-inspired American wild ale, the 2021 Firestone Walker Feral One Batch #8 was our last Barrelworks beer. The nose was what you'd expect, with sour, citric nuances alongside a proper amount of barnyard, while the taste showed off tart orchard fruits, acid, and earth in a relatively easy-going package.
HANGER STEAK, koji, sesame seed & aleppo chili crunch [$42.00]
In our final savory course, onglet arrived with a pretty much perfect cook and a thoroughly gratifying chew. Enhanced by the use of koji, the beef paired beautifully with the sting of those shishitos, and I was a big fan of those crunchy-nutty bits, too.
caramelized goat milk SEMIFREDDO, saffron gelee, rhubarb [$14.00]
Naturally, we ordered all three desserts available, and this first one ended up being my favorite. The combination of chèvre semifreddo, rhubarb, and saffron was masterful, and somehow reminded me of a cinnamon donut. Everything just came together beautifully.
We were graciously given a bottle of the 2023 Radiant Beer Co Coconut Catharsis, which we saved for dessert duty. This was a strong ale aged for over two years in coconut rum and Weller 7 Year bourbon barrels, then conditioned with coconut and vanilla. The nose here was huge, giving up massive aromas of chocolate and coconut cake--super appealing. On the palate, the beer was properly thick, offering decadent chocolate cake with vanilla-caramel frosting and a topping of toasted coconut flakes, all with an underpinning of boozy heat.
ricotta apple fritter DONUTS, sage sugar, creme fraiche [$14.00]
Dusted with fragrant sage sugar, miniature doughnuts showed off a relatively light, yet still substantial consistency, while their apple-powered flavors were joined by this almost saline quality that I didn't mind.
DARK CHOCOLATE, maple, sesame, caviar [$22.00]
In our final dessert, bittersweet dark chocolate was expertly set against salty caviar and what I believe was olive oil, making for a smart juxtaposition of savory and sweet.
I came into Darkroom with high hopes, and I'm glad to report that I was not let down. This might be the most important OC opening in years, and it's something that the area needs. With the possible exception of what's going on at Trust, Scherer and Adams are putting out the most interesting food in Orange County at the moment, and their cuisine shows considerable range to boot. Even though this place just opened, the cooking is already very strong, but of course, I'm hoping that the kitchen will continue to evolve and push things further. Given the strength of this dinner, I feel that I have to give the current incarnation of Chrysalis a try. This is the highest expression of the Chefs' vision, a tasting menu concept that takes place in a separate space within Darkroom, based on the pop-ups that were held before the restaurant opened. Something to look forward to in 2025, I suppose.
3751 S Harbor Blvd, Santa Ana, CA 92704
657-777-3275
www.wearedarkroom.com
Fri 12/20/2024, 05:40p-08:40p
I've often bemoaned the lack of more ambitious restaurants in Orange County, but a new spot that's bucking the trend is Darkroom, which opened on the western edge of Santa Ana in early September. The place comes to us from Zach Scherer (whom I first encountered at Playground all the way back in 2012) and Andrew "Drew" Adams (last seen at Bello in Newport), who have been working together since late 2017. The duo has envisioned their own concept of contemporary California cuisine, drawing from both Asian and Hispanic traditions, with a smidge of Nordic sensibility for good measure. It all sounded very intriguing, so I was excited to give Darkroom a try.
About the Chefs: Zachary Owen Scherer was born in September 1987 and grew in Ramona, on the outskirts of San Diego. Early on, he was mostly interested in music and video gaming, but decided to pursue a career in cooking instead. Following high school, he attended the Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Pasadena from 2006, earning his AOS degree in October 2008. Scherer eventually joined the team at Vizzi Truck in February 2010, and helped launch the food truck a month later. In January 2011, he returned to SD to work the line at Georges California Modern, the main dining room at Georges at the Cove in La Jolla, but only stayed for nine months. From there, he moved to OC to become Chef de Cuisine at The Hotel Hanford in Costa Mesa (now the Crowne Plaza), then transitioned to a line cook position at Playground in March 2012. He was able to work his way up, reaching the rank of CdC, but left in January 2015.
Scherer's next move was to the Haven restaurant group, where he remained for a year before decamping in March 2016. He then consulted at Newport Beach's Balboa Bay Club for six months before becoming banquet chef at the nearby Big Canyon Country Club. September 2017 saw him take on the opening Executive Chef role at The Country Club in Costa Mesa, which debuted that December; he later became Corporate Chef for parent company Lounge Group in February 2019. Scherer left in August 2020 to serve as CdC at Bello by Sandro Nardone in Newport Beach, and in February 2021, was given the chance to institute Bello Chef's Table, a higher-end tasting counter concept that was largely well-received.
However, he exited in August 2023, and was replaced by his sous, who was none other than Adams (see my Bello Chef's Table post for his background). Scherer then started work on a pop-up by the name of Chrysalis that he'd been dreaming of for years. The first event took place that September at the home of Heirloom Potager in Santa Ana, and the dinner series eventually collaborated with the likes of The Watson Ranch in Fallbrook, Everywhere Beer in Orange, Honey Pot Meadery in Anaheim, Trust in Santa Ana, The Parlor at Stafford Prime in Tustin, Radiant Beer in Anaheim, Blind Rabbit in Anaheim, and Bear Coast Coffee in Laguna Beach. In February this year, Adams withdrew from Bello to join forces with Scherer, and the two took over the current restaurant space in April, transforming it into Darkroom and officially opening up for business on September 10th.
Darkroom resides at the somewhat dreary Harbor Promenade complex, inside a storefront that was previously home to the likes of Beyond the Baguette, The Scotchery, Public Steak, and 8 Steers. The space has definitely been spiffed up considerably, and was apparently built by the partners themselves. The dark-toned aesthetic is certainly befitting of the restaurant's name.
Here we see Darkroom's menu, which is somewhat lengthier than I'd expected, but reads very enticingly. It's one of those menus where I want to order everything, and so that's basically what we did. As for the beverages, you'll find a pretty interesting selection of wines, a handful of beers, as well as low-ABV (tiki-inspired) cocktails based on apéritifs and fortified wines. Meanwhile, the corkage situation is something that I'd never seen before. Instead of being priced per bottle, it's instead a flat fee of $40 per person, which is helpful if you want to pop a lot of bottles. Note that we were only charged twice for a party of four, perhaps because we shared our booze generously with the staff. Click for larger versions.
SCALLOP tostada, marigold vinaigrette, flowers [$21.00]
Dinner started off strong with this rejiggered tostada that combined the cool brine of scallop and the astringent warmth of marigold, with that whole interaction moderated by a delightfully toasty, decidedly masa-forward tortilla.
Over the past couple years, I'd had a dozen Barrelworks beers taking up space in my fridge, and given Darkroom's corkage policy, this meal seemed like a good excuse to drink 'em all. First up was the 2017 Firestone Walker Sour Opal Batch #3, a gueuze-inspired, oak-aged American wild ale. As expected, the nose here was filled with ripe stone fruits commingled with plenty of Brett-y yeast. The beer certainly perked up the palate, delivering more of those peach-like nuances along with plenty of crispness, sourness, and acidity.
HAMACHI, ajo blanco, squid ink, grapes, market lettuce [$26.00]
The yellowtail was a table favorite. I think the key here was how the creamy, nutty nature of the ajoblanco so effectively harmonized with the fish, which was also bolstered by the salt and savor of squid ink. At the same time, the lettuce imparted a crucial brightness, and I liked the sweet, juicy contributions from the grapes, too.
Beer-wise, the 2021 Firestone Walker Berry Cherry Cobbler Batch #1 was definitely a highlight. An American wild ale fermented with local blackberries, Montmorency cherries, and Madagascar vanilla, this one smelled wondrously sour and funky, with "seedy" berries and hints of coconut to boot. Taste-wise, I got loads of tart, savory, musty red fruit, and the overall effect actually reminded me of suānméi in the best way possible.
TUNA CRUDO (2), potato darphin(ette), mustards, dill [$16.00]
Crudo can often seem a bit played out these days, but Darkroom's managed to be another favorite thanks to how beautifully the fish melded with those cozy medallions of pommes darphin, with the herbs serving to lighten the mood.
Trinidad Sour [$17.00] | house vermouth, marcona almond orgeat, a play on the classic
At this point, we took a bit of a detour from the beers and ordered a round of cocktails (the creations of Gianna M). This one here was my favorite of the bunch, and curiously enough, actually reminded me of "fruit on the bottom" yogurt, but tinged by warm, lingering spices.
little gem CAESAR, comte, matcha nori crunchies, pistachio [$17.00]
This was the smartest riff on Caesar salad I've seen in a while, and really did do a great job recalling its classic inspiration. I loved the crunchy textures going on here, as well as the bevy of bright, bitter, briny flavors all happening at the same time.
Mint to Tell Yu [$17.00] | it's a yuzu mojito, our style
Despite being described as a mojito (my cocktail of choice in the mid-2000s), this didn't really taste all that much like the traditional drink. Rather, I got more of a softly grassy, bittersweet character, which I didn't mind.
STEAK TARTARE, jalapeno, umami sweet stuff, creme fraiche, endive [$22.00]
The beef tartare was another winner. The steak itself was just what I wanted texturally, and there was also this pungency and heat that enveloped the meat, making it a perfect counterpoint to the crunch of those bitter endives.
What's in Your Head [$17.00] | gochujang, grapefruit, makrut lime
The presence of gochujang certain piqued our interest in this next cocktail. The chili paste imparted a marked complexity to the drink, but wasn't super in-your-face, and meshed pretty seamlessly with the fruit.
weiser farms POTATO SALAD, mike & son's egg, dill smoked trout roe [$18.00]
Regular readers will know that I'm a sucker for potato salad, and I'm happy to report that this was a first-rate rendition. The taters were on point in terms of texture, and I was definitely into the herby, grassy nuances contributed by the dill, as well as the lusciousness of that runny egg. However, I think the crux here was the ikura, which imparted a wonderful smoke to the dish.
Sherrycolada [$17.00] | coconut sherry, burnt pineapple, coconut, lime
Our final cocktail was this take on the piña colada. Think creamy, tropical, with a spicy edge, and eminently quaffable.
slow roasted CARROTS, "50/50 bar" buttermilk, satsuma [$16.00]
Carrots arrived nearly melt-in-my-mouth tender, but fortunately, also came with some crispy, smoky bits to keep things interesting. The buttermilk made more sense than I thought it would, but even more surprising was the satsuma, which made for a bright, citrusy, juicy counterpoint that wasn't nearly as jarring as I'd feared.
Getting back to the beers now, here was the 2019 Firestone Walker Bretta Blanc Batch #2, a wild ale fermented with white grape juice. Described as a sort of beer/wine hybrid, this was the funkiest, the mustiest of the lot in terms of bouquet. That being said, the palate wasn't nearly as aggressive, giving up tart, dry, vinous elements interspersed with tropical fruits.
manila CLAMS, dry aged beef panang, focaccia [$23.00]
Clams came out expertly cooked, set in a spicy, coconut-laden broth that did an admirable job conveying the essence of the dish's phanaeng inspiration while never getting in the way of the bivalves. Also of note was the focaccia, which was perhaps the most saturated piece of bread I've ever encountered; I'm still not sure if I liked it that way or not.
The 2016 Firestone Walker Krieky Bones Batch #3 was a Flanders red ale-style beer aged in oak foeders and fermented with Montmorency cherries. Aromas here went in a tart, funky, musty direction, but with omnipresent spiced cherries. Taking a sip, I got plenty more sour cherry, but supported by a layer of warm, cinnamon-y baking spices.
fried SCOTCH OLIVES, anchovy, merguez, sumac yogurt [$14.00]
What we had here were essentially miniaturized Scotch eggs, which, given my penchant for sausage, I thoroughly enjoyed. The duo of merguez and anchovy certainly worked for me, and I liked how the sharpness from the olives was restrained, as well as how the yogurt lightened things up just enough. Do note that this dish ended up being comped, I'm assuming because we'd ordered so much.
A collaboration beer created with Belgium's Liefmans Brewery, the 2018 Firestone Walker West Odnar Batch #1 was an oud bruin-inspired wild ale aged in French (75%) and American (25%) oak. The nose here highlighted the sweet, spicy, and funky facets of red fruit, while palate-wise, I found spiced brown sugar commingled with a soft maltiness, more fruit, and plenty of acidity.
ROSALBA, toasted peanut, macadamia & chili dressing [$14.00]
Pink-hued leaves of rosalba were a treat visually. Texturally, I appreciated the radicchio's soft, tender mouthfeel, while taste-wise, their decidedly bittersweet flavors paired swimmingly with the dish's nutty heat. However, I was left wondering if things might've been even better with a bit of char and smoke on the chicory.
The 2017 Firestone Walker Bretta Weisse Batch #3 was a Berliner Weisse-style wheat beer aged in French oak. Surprisingly, it actually demonstrated the most overtly sour nose of the night. On the palate, the ale was on the lighter side, its grain-y flavors joined by a crisp, pervasive tartness.
shrimp & crab stuffed PIQUILLO PEPPERS (2), black "pil pil", fig leaf oil [$23.00]
Piquillos offered a welcomed sweet piquancy that worked hand-in-hand with the salinity of the seafood, while the pil pil sauce imparted further oomph to the dish. Big fan of those fried crunchy bits, too.
Next to imbibe was a wild ale fermented with nectarines and apricots, the 2021 Firestone Walker Frazzle Sass Batch #1, created in collaboration with Fonta Flora Brewery out of Morganton, NC. To no one's surprise, the beer showcased aromas of tart stone fruits intertwined with plenty of yeastiness. In the mouth, think bright, bold, and acidic, its healthy dosing of sweet, juicy fruit offset by plenty of sourness.
"nashville hot" SWORDFISH, cucumber shiro slaw, jimmy nardello gribiche [$41.00]
The swordfish might've been the most tender I've ever had, and also showcased a delightfully crunchy exterior that actually reminded me of the fish sticks of my childhood. The fish's delicate flavors were contrasted by the sweet-tanginess of those cucumbers, while a pepper-infused sauce gribiche helped tie it all together.
The 2017 Firestone Walker Agrestic Batch #4 was an American wild red ale that actually started its life as an English pale ale. Transformed by barrel aging and various microflora, the beer was by far the most mineral-driven on the nose, while also displaying the expected earthy and dark berry aromas. Tasting it, I found it very familiar somehow, with plenty more tart fruit swirling around with malty sweetness, oak, and lots more of that minerality.
smoked and confit MAITAKE MUSHROOM, "kind of chimichurri", buckwheat [$17.00]
Hen-of-the-woods had that slightly chewy, "feathery" texture I was hoping for, along with a woodsy, smoky quality that married easily with the zestiness of that chimichurri-ish condiment. However, my favorite thing here just might've been the buckwheat, which actually made me think of bacon bits.
Beer-wise, the 2021 Firestone Walker Nec Bones Batch #2 was another standout. A French oak-aged American wild ale fermented with local Honey Fire nectarines, this exhibited huge amounts of juicy, sugary stone fruit on the nose. In the mouth, the ale possessed this candied, almost Jolly Rancher-esque nectarine character, but also enough sourness and earthiness to keep things in check.
smoked DUCK BREAST, amaro jus, juniper oil, horseradish, beets [$46.00]
Duck arrived with well-rendered skin, while flavors were deep, intense, concentrated, with loads of that anatine funk I was seeking, along with tinges of sweet spices. However, the combo of amaro and beet was a bit too aggressive for me, and tended to distract from the bird.
Brewed in collaboration with The Wild Beer Co in England, the 2019 Firestone Walker Violet Underground Batch #2 was a wild ale aged in wine barrels with raspberries and candied violet petals. This one conveyed a flower-y sourness on the nose, while in terms of taste, I found a very agreeable back-and-forth between tart berry and the floral qualities of the violet.
Beeler's PORK TOMAHAWK, delicata jerk, coconut & macadamia XO [$44.00]
A bone-in pork chop was spot-on taste-wise, its porcine goodness playing well with the heady flavors of an XO that actually reminded me of shacha sauce. I also appreciated the use of delicata squash, which had a tangy, sweet-n-spicy character than helped lighten things up a bit. My one quibble here was that the pork was a touch dry in spots.
The penultimate Barrelworks brew was the 2019 Firestone Walker Champs de Fraises Batch #3, a French oak-aged wild ale fermented with strawberries. The beer smelled of tart strawberry vitamins, and I mean that in a good way. On the palate, the fruit was actually more subdued, and instead, I got this nearly blue cheese-esque funkiness supported by plenty more sourness and acidity.
braised heirloom BROCCOLINI, tehachapi polenta, mushroom butter, tarragon zhug [$16.00]
I'd say that this was the least successful dish of the night. I wanted more texture on the broccolini, and while I enjoyed its bitterness, the veggie was somewhat overwhelmed by the polenta, which veered overly sweet.
A lambic-inspired American wild ale, the 2021 Firestone Walker Feral One Batch #8 was our last Barrelworks beer. The nose was what you'd expect, with sour, citric nuances alongside a proper amount of barnyard, while the taste showed off tart orchard fruits, acid, and earth in a relatively easy-going package.
HANGER STEAK, koji, sesame seed & aleppo chili crunch [$42.00]
In our final savory course, onglet arrived with a pretty much perfect cook and a thoroughly gratifying chew. Enhanced by the use of koji, the beef paired beautifully with the sting of those shishitos, and I was a big fan of those crunchy-nutty bits, too.
caramelized goat milk SEMIFREDDO, saffron gelee, rhubarb [$14.00]
Naturally, we ordered all three desserts available, and this first one ended up being my favorite. The combination of chèvre semifreddo, rhubarb, and saffron was masterful, and somehow reminded me of a cinnamon donut. Everything just came together beautifully.
We were graciously given a bottle of the 2023 Radiant Beer Co Coconut Catharsis, which we saved for dessert duty. This was a strong ale aged for over two years in coconut rum and Weller 7 Year bourbon barrels, then conditioned with coconut and vanilla. The nose here was huge, giving up massive aromas of chocolate and coconut cake--super appealing. On the palate, the beer was properly thick, offering decadent chocolate cake with vanilla-caramel frosting and a topping of toasted coconut flakes, all with an underpinning of boozy heat.
ricotta apple fritter DONUTS, sage sugar, creme fraiche [$14.00]
Dusted with fragrant sage sugar, miniature doughnuts showed off a relatively light, yet still substantial consistency, while their apple-powered flavors were joined by this almost saline quality that I didn't mind.
DARK CHOCOLATE, maple, sesame, caviar [$22.00]
In our final dessert, bittersweet dark chocolate was expertly set against salty caviar and what I believe was olive oil, making for a smart juxtaposition of savory and sweet.
I came into Darkroom with high hopes, and I'm glad to report that I was not let down. This might be the most important OC opening in years, and it's something that the area needs. With the possible exception of what's going on at Trust, Scherer and Adams are putting out the most interesting food in Orange County at the moment, and their cuisine shows considerable range to boot. Even though this place just opened, the cooking is already very strong, but of course, I'm hoping that the kitchen will continue to evolve and push things further. Given the strength of this dinner, I feel that I have to give the current incarnation of Chrysalis a try. This is the highest expression of the Chefs' vision, a tasting menu concept that takes place in a separate space within Darkroom, based on the pop-ups that were held before the restaurant opened. Something to look forward to in 2025, I suppose.
posted by kevinEats at
5:40 PM
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