Amour (West Hollywood, CA)
Amour WeHo
8715 Beverly Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90048
424-431-6717
www.amourweho.love
Sat 01/18/2025, 08:10p-10:50p
I was just in West Hollywood for Somni, but returned recently to check out Amour, a place that I'd been mildly curious about ever since it opened in December 2023. Styled after a French brasserie, the spot is the creation of Thomas Fuks, who's most known around these parts as the founder of Members Restaurant & Club in Hollywood, though he was also involved with Raspoutine and Ladurée locally. When Amour first debuted, the kitchen was headed up by EC Dany Chavez-Bello and CdC Hendrix Vega, with the latter quickly taking over for the former, though these days, the man in charge is Chef Alex Seince.
About the Chef: Alexandre Seince was born in February 1988, and hails from France. After finishing his early education at École Saint-Exupéry and Collège Clément Janequin in Avrillé, he attained his culinary degree at La Chambre de Commerce et d'Industrie in Angers in 2007. During his time in school, he trained at a local restaurant called Le Relais, and following graduation, worked at Atout Réception Nante (an agency specializing in hospitality) and Le Pub Saint Aubin, also in Angers. From there, he made his way to Stephan Traiteur in Pont-l'Abbé and Traiteur Guyon in Saint-Sébastien-sur-Loire, and in February 2010, started working at Le Val d'Evre, a catering company in Ancenis-Saint-Géréon. In October 2011, Seince relocated to Denmark to cook at L'Education Nationale in Copenhagen, where he stayed for a year before becoming a private chef in the Danish capital.
September 2013 saw him return to Angers for a CdC position at Sur le Toit, where he remained until May 2014, when he began working for European Waterways, an operator of hotel barges. He took on a second job the following March at Chez Rémi back in Angers, but quit both positions that September. It was then when Seince moved to India to serve as Corporate Executive Chef for Café Noir, a Bangalore-based mini-chain of French eateries. He was at the post for three years, and during that period, also worked as CdC for Clair de Lune, another hotel barge on the Canal du Midi. In June 2019, he moved to the United States to become Executive Kitchen Chef for Ladurée New York, and later became Area Director of Operations for the company's Los Angeles outposts in July 2020. He then joined the team at Amour in the latter half of 2024.
Amour resides at an address that was once home to Verlaine/Wild Beast, and the longstanding Dominick's before that. The same general layout remains, though the decor has been redone to fit the new brasserie-ish theme. Shown here is the Le Patio seating area, near the entrance and host stand.
To the left is a doorway into a small library-like room...
...Which then opens up into La Salle a Manger, or the main dining room, the most formal space in the restaurant.
Meanwhile, in the back is Le Jardin, an inviting outdoor area that abuts a private dining room by the name of Le Salon Privé.
Here's the latest menu for the winter, which reads a bit bistro-y, but with a lux touch. Do note that Amour's cuisine is definitely on the safer side these days. When the place first opened, the kitchen featured a more contemporary style of Japanese-inflected French and even had eight-course tasting menu option at $222 a head, but all that is no longer. In any case, also pictured above is the cocktail list and wine by the glass offerings. Corkage is $75 per bottle, limit two. Click for larger versions.
Fried Frog Legs [$22.00] | Served with garlic herb aioli
It felt appropriate to start with the cuisses de grenouille, since an ingredient doesn't get any more stereotypically French than frog. The legs had that mix of crunchy outsides and tender, succulent interiors I was looking for, while flavor-wise, what came to mind was "briny chicken." The frog was certainly tasty on its own, but that creamy, slightly tangy aïoli did serve as a pretty much perfect complement.
Unfashionable [$24.00] | Código Tequila, Laphroaig, Combier banana liqueur, Verjus & Coconut Water
As someone who's quite unfashionable myself, this first cocktail's name certainly beckoned to me. The drink smelled strongly of peaty Scotch, layered over a base of banana candy. Taking a sip, I found plenty more of that candied banana and smoke, along with a surprisingly prickly, long-lingering heat.
Escargots [$18.00] | Broiled garlic butter snails
Up above, I stated that an ingredient doesn't get any more stereotypically French than frog, but escargot might present a challenge to that. The snails possessed a satisfyingly springy, supple consistency, and I rather enjoyed the dish's classically garlicky, herbaceous notes. I didn't mind that baguette on the side, either.
Tartare de boeuf [$28.00] | Appetizer Beef tartare
Tartar steak is generally a go-to of mine at restaurants, and tonight's version certainly delivered. I appreciated the slight amount of chew to the beef, as well as how the use of mustard worked to offset its heft. At the same time, I was a big fan of that ultra-crispy, assertively-spiced bread on the side, while the radish and frisée lightened things up.
Fleur D'Amour [$16.00] | A delicate blend of Lychee, Hibiscus, & Bubbles
This non-alcoholic cocktail was definitely on the sweeter side, demonstrating loads of sugary lychee commingled with overtly floral quality from the hibiscus.
Pates à la carbonara [$34.00] | Egg yolk, pecorino, Guanciale & Black Pepper
The first of two pasta courses wasn't shy about the cheese and pepper, nor about the aggressively salty flavors of those chewy bits of pork jowl. Aided by the egg, it all came together pretty well in the end, and I liked the mouthfeel on the pasta tubes, too.
Tagliatelle au homard [$42.00] | Creamy lobster sauce & lobster
The tagliatelle also met the mark. The pasta was on point texturally, and I enjoyed how the dish so effectively captured the sweet-salinity and depth of the lobster.
Umami Sour [$24.00] | Suntory Toki Whisky, Chamomile honey miso syrup, Lemon & Egg white
This riff on the iconic whiskey sour cocktail showed off a woodsy, "dusty chocolate" character from the Toki supported by an undercurrent of citrus as well as the advertised umami. Pretty neat.
Blanquette de volaille [$46.00] | Organic chicken creamy stew, mushroom, carrot, served with pilaf rice
A chicken-powered take on a traditional blanquette de veau was a cozy dish appropriate for the chilly weather. The stew had this familiar, homey character that actually reminded me of the chicken pot pies of my childhood, but in a good way, and I found it a great complement to that farro rice on the side. However, my concern here was that the bird wasn't as juicy as I was hoping for.
Profiteroles [$18.00] | Crispy Choux, Pistachio ice cream with Chocolate Sauce & Pistachio
Dessert duty was handled by a lone profiterole, one boasting an apt balance of chocolate and pistachio flavors along with a nice counterpoint from the choux pastry.
Rustic Pear [$26.00] | Martingale Cognac, Woodford rye, Poached pear syrup & Bitters
The evening's final cocktail was the booziest of the lot, and played the sweetness of pear against a bevy of smoky, oaky, and bitter notes.
Leftovers were held in a rather strikingly-hued bag, with that rich, deep green working beautifully with those gold accents.
Given how "sexy" this place is, I was a bit trepidatious about the food, but despite Amour's vibey nature, the cooking was pretty legit, and despite not venturing too far outside the box, does indeed add something to LA's French cuisine conversation. Taking into account the strength of this dinner, I just might have to consider checking out Fuks' other new spot: Puzzle, a bar/lounge that opened up last August on Sunset, with food from Chef Kevin Dray.
8715 Beverly Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90048
424-431-6717
www.amourweho.love
Sat 01/18/2025, 08:10p-10:50p
I was just in West Hollywood for Somni, but returned recently to check out Amour, a place that I'd been mildly curious about ever since it opened in December 2023. Styled after a French brasserie, the spot is the creation of Thomas Fuks, who's most known around these parts as the founder of Members Restaurant & Club in Hollywood, though he was also involved with Raspoutine and Ladurée locally. When Amour first debuted, the kitchen was headed up by EC Dany Chavez-Bello and CdC Hendrix Vega, with the latter quickly taking over for the former, though these days, the man in charge is Chef Alex Seince.
About the Chef: Alexandre Seince was born in February 1988, and hails from France. After finishing his early education at École Saint-Exupéry and Collège Clément Janequin in Avrillé, he attained his culinary degree at La Chambre de Commerce et d'Industrie in Angers in 2007. During his time in school, he trained at a local restaurant called Le Relais, and following graduation, worked at Atout Réception Nante (an agency specializing in hospitality) and Le Pub Saint Aubin, also in Angers. From there, he made his way to Stephan Traiteur in Pont-l'Abbé and Traiteur Guyon in Saint-Sébastien-sur-Loire, and in February 2010, started working at Le Val d'Evre, a catering company in Ancenis-Saint-Géréon. In October 2011, Seince relocated to Denmark to cook at L'Education Nationale in Copenhagen, where he stayed for a year before becoming a private chef in the Danish capital.
September 2013 saw him return to Angers for a CdC position at Sur le Toit, where he remained until May 2014, when he began working for European Waterways, an operator of hotel barges. He took on a second job the following March at Chez Rémi back in Angers, but quit both positions that September. It was then when Seince moved to India to serve as Corporate Executive Chef for Café Noir, a Bangalore-based mini-chain of French eateries. He was at the post for three years, and during that period, also worked as CdC for Clair de Lune, another hotel barge on the Canal du Midi. In June 2019, he moved to the United States to become Executive Kitchen Chef for Ladurée New York, and later became Area Director of Operations for the company's Los Angeles outposts in July 2020. He then joined the team at Amour in the latter half of 2024.
Amour resides at an address that was once home to Verlaine/Wild Beast, and the longstanding Dominick's before that. The same general layout remains, though the decor has been redone to fit the new brasserie-ish theme. Shown here is the Le Patio seating area, near the entrance and host stand.
To the left is a doorway into a small library-like room...
...Which then opens up into La Salle a Manger, or the main dining room, the most formal space in the restaurant.
Meanwhile, in the back is Le Jardin, an inviting outdoor area that abuts a private dining room by the name of Le Salon Privé.
Here's the latest menu for the winter, which reads a bit bistro-y, but with a lux touch. Do note that Amour's cuisine is definitely on the safer side these days. When the place first opened, the kitchen featured a more contemporary style of Japanese-inflected French and even had eight-course tasting menu option at $222 a head, but all that is no longer. In any case, also pictured above is the cocktail list and wine by the glass offerings. Corkage is $75 per bottle, limit two. Click for larger versions.
Fried Frog Legs [$22.00] | Served with garlic herb aioli
It felt appropriate to start with the cuisses de grenouille, since an ingredient doesn't get any more stereotypically French than frog. The legs had that mix of crunchy outsides and tender, succulent interiors I was looking for, while flavor-wise, what came to mind was "briny chicken." The frog was certainly tasty on its own, but that creamy, slightly tangy aïoli did serve as a pretty much perfect complement.
Unfashionable [$24.00] | Código Tequila, Laphroaig, Combier banana liqueur, Verjus & Coconut Water
As someone who's quite unfashionable myself, this first cocktail's name certainly beckoned to me. The drink smelled strongly of peaty Scotch, layered over a base of banana candy. Taking a sip, I found plenty more of that candied banana and smoke, along with a surprisingly prickly, long-lingering heat.
Escargots [$18.00] | Broiled garlic butter snails
Up above, I stated that an ingredient doesn't get any more stereotypically French than frog, but escargot might present a challenge to that. The snails possessed a satisfyingly springy, supple consistency, and I rather enjoyed the dish's classically garlicky, herbaceous notes. I didn't mind that baguette on the side, either.
Tartare de boeuf [$28.00] | Appetizer Beef tartare
Tartar steak is generally a go-to of mine at restaurants, and tonight's version certainly delivered. I appreciated the slight amount of chew to the beef, as well as how the use of mustard worked to offset its heft. At the same time, I was a big fan of that ultra-crispy, assertively-spiced bread on the side, while the radish and frisée lightened things up.
Fleur D'Amour [$16.00] | A delicate blend of Lychee, Hibiscus, & Bubbles
This non-alcoholic cocktail was definitely on the sweeter side, demonstrating loads of sugary lychee commingled with overtly floral quality from the hibiscus.
Pates à la carbonara [$34.00] | Egg yolk, pecorino, Guanciale & Black Pepper
The first of two pasta courses wasn't shy about the cheese and pepper, nor about the aggressively salty flavors of those chewy bits of pork jowl. Aided by the egg, it all came together pretty well in the end, and I liked the mouthfeel on the pasta tubes, too.
Tagliatelle au homard [$42.00] | Creamy lobster sauce & lobster
The tagliatelle also met the mark. The pasta was on point texturally, and I enjoyed how the dish so effectively captured the sweet-salinity and depth of the lobster.
Umami Sour [$24.00] | Suntory Toki Whisky, Chamomile honey miso syrup, Lemon & Egg white
This riff on the iconic whiskey sour cocktail showed off a woodsy, "dusty chocolate" character from the Toki supported by an undercurrent of citrus as well as the advertised umami. Pretty neat.
Blanquette de volaille [$46.00] | Organic chicken creamy stew, mushroom, carrot, served with pilaf rice
A chicken-powered take on a traditional blanquette de veau was a cozy dish appropriate for the chilly weather. The stew had this familiar, homey character that actually reminded me of the chicken pot pies of my childhood, but in a good way, and I found it a great complement to that farro rice on the side. However, my concern here was that the bird wasn't as juicy as I was hoping for.
Profiteroles [$18.00] | Crispy Choux, Pistachio ice cream with Chocolate Sauce & Pistachio
Dessert duty was handled by a lone profiterole, one boasting an apt balance of chocolate and pistachio flavors along with a nice counterpoint from the choux pastry.
Rustic Pear [$26.00] | Martingale Cognac, Woodford rye, Poached pear syrup & Bitters
The evening's final cocktail was the booziest of the lot, and played the sweetness of pear against a bevy of smoky, oaky, and bitter notes.
Leftovers were held in a rather strikingly-hued bag, with that rich, deep green working beautifully with those gold accents.
Given how "sexy" this place is, I was a bit trepidatious about the food, but despite Amour's vibey nature, the cooking was pretty legit, and despite not venturing too far outside the box, does indeed add something to LA's French cuisine conversation. Taking into account the strength of this dinner, I just might have to consider checking out Fuks' other new spot: Puzzle, a bar/lounge that opened up last August on Sunset, with food from Chef Kevin Dray.
posted by kevinEats at
8:10 PM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]
<< Home