Izakaya Tonchinkan (Arcadia, CA) [2]
Izakaya Ton Chin Kan
713 W Duarte Rd, Arcadia, CA 91007
626-461-5078
tonchinkan.izakaya.la
Fri 01/31/2025, 08:00p-12:30a
Ever since my first visit a few years back, Izakaya Tonchinkan (居酒屋 とんちんかん), also known as Nomiya Tonchinkan (呑み屋 とんちんかん), has remained one of my top picks for izakayas in the Los Angeles region. If you recall, the place was started by Tokyo native Yamato Miura (三浦大和), a former martial artist-slash-stuntman who first came to the US in June 2001 (age 16), ran a travel agency called Park Tour Services, and worked behind the bar at Sushi Gen and as a dishwasher at Urasawa. He decided to strike out on his own with the launch of Benten Ramen in 2013, which was followed by DTLA Ramen (2017), Tonchinkan (2018), Sushi Kisen (2021), Sushi Yamamoto (2023), Kaiseki Motoishi (2024), Sushidokoro Miyama (2024), and mostly recently, Sumibiyakitori Kidori, which opened in November. Some friends and I were looking for an izakaya-style place to open up some recently-acquired sakes (corkage is $25), and after considering a few options, decided on the always-reliable Tonchinkan.
Do note that the food is executed on a day-to-day basis by head chef Tatsu-san, a Tokyoite who started cooking here about a year after the place opened. Interestingly, he's actually known Miura for over a decade, before even the Ramen Benten days, and it was he who helped make this restaurant possible by introducing his boss to Takayuki Hori, who used to control this space back in the Hinotori days and was looking for someone to take it over.
Here we see Tonchinkan's oft-changing menu, which is basically exactly what you'd expect from an izakaya. Click for larger versions.
白子ぽんず "Shirako" Japanese Cod Milt W/ House Ponzu [$12.00]
Given that we were in the middle of the season, it made sense to start with some "white children." And indeed, the soft roe was on point, its gentle salinity pairing swimmingly with tangy ponzu and the zestiness of scallion. Very balanced.
北海道産 雲丹小箱 "Uni" - Hokkaido Sea Urchin Small Wooden Tray [$45.00]
We then moved on into another, much more popular type of gonad. The sea urchin possessed that classic, creamy, delicate sweetness that you want, which made a whole bunch of sense when paired with some seaweed and wasabi.
First to drink was the 2024 Hananoka Ubusuna Homase Shinojo Namazake (花の香 産土 穂増 四農釀 生酒), a limited-release kimoto bottling from Kumamoto Prefecture, made from a recently-revived strain of rice. The sake opened with a surprisingly forceful pop, and presented a very distinctly fresh-n-fizzy aroma filled with sweet, woodsy, lactic notes and traces of pâtisserie. On the palate, the nihonshu was quite effervescent, with a refreshing, lively character joined by plenty of sweet, ricey nuances and hints of tropical fruit and cedar. Quite an easy-drinker I must say.
みる貝 "Mirugai" - Giant Clam [$34.00]
Slices of geoduck showed off a satisfyingly supple crunch along with a creeping, lingering brine that really called for a smear of wasabi.
アンガス牛タンの塩焼き - Grilled Angus Beef Tongue [$28.00]
The gyūtan was a winner thanks to its tender, slightly chewy texture and full-throated flavors, perked up by pricks of pepper.
富山県産 白工ビ "Shiroebi" Japanese Glass Shrimp (Toyama) [$16.00]
Tiny, semi-translucent white shrimp from Toyama Bay were creamy on the tongue, their subtle, sophisticated sweetness well-accented by the sting of wasabi.
烏賊一夜干し Grilled, Over Night Dried Squid [$12.00]
Ika ichiyaboshi demonstrated a wonderful "snap" and an even more wonderful smoke that was partially offset by that surprisingly astringent sauce on the side.
Our second sake was the 2023 Hananoka Ubusuna Yamada Nishiki Rokunojo Namazake (花の香 産土 山田錦 六農釀 生酒), another kimoto brew from the same producer as the bottle above. The bouquet on this one was similar, though I'd say with less overt fruitiness and more of a lactic, woodsy character. Taking a sip, I found this less effervescent, smoother, and rounder, with a more apparent minerality to go along with all the sweet, ricey flavors present. Again, quite quaffable.
姫さざえ "Hime Sazae" Small Japanese Turban Shell [$18.00]
Cooked tsuboyaki-style, sea snails showcased a delightfully dense, chewy consistency and an elegantly oceany taste spiked with a touch of bitterness.
At this point, Tatsu-san gifted us a serving of deep-fried squid beak (イカトンビ唐揚, or ikatonbi karaage), which I don't think I've ever had before. I loved how the squid's sublimely soft, "snappy" consistency juxtaposed against its crispy outsides, while flavors were mouthwateringly salty and savory. A real treat.
めひかり唐揚げ "Mehikari" Deep Fried Greenling Fish [$12.00]
Greeneyes are an uncommon sight around these parts, so I felt compelled to order a serving tonight. The fish had a pleasingly light, "fluffy" texture, while their brininess worked hand-in-hand with an underlying bitterness.
トリュフ塩のフライドポテト Deep Fried Potato Wedges W/ Truffle Salt [$10.00]
Here we had what were essentially steak fries, a particularly hearty preparation amped up by the application of salt and a restrained truffle-fueled musk.
Our final drink was the 2023 Aramasa Colors Viridian Namazake (新政 ヴィリジアン - 天鵞絨 生酒), a jikagumi (直汲), kioke-style (木桶) bottling made with Misato Nishiki (美郷錦) rice. The sake was markedly different compared to the two above, starting with the nose, which was teeming with bold, sugary, juicy honeydew. Palate-wise, this was silky soft and thick, with more of those rich, sweet melon notes alongside subdued tropicals and light touches of wood, umami, and heat.
いぶりがっこチーズ "Iburigakko" Japanese Smoked Pickles w/ Cream Cheese [$12.00]
This was my first time having iburi gakko, and I have to say that it was a surprise favorite. The radish displayed a crunchy texture not unlike that of takuan, but what set it apart was its marvelous smoke, which was perfect when taken with that lush, creamy cheese on the side. It was a rather remarkable pairing.
烏の唐揚げ "Karaage" Japanese Style Soy Marinated, Fried Chicken [$9.00]
This was like an upgraded version of your classic Japanese fried chicken. The bird came out super juicy and tender, with deep, soulful, soy-boosted flavors that contrasted well with some aggressively crispy, craggly skin. Delicious either alone or with a dab of the provided condiments.
地鶏肝の甲州煮 Chicken Liver, Gizzard, and Hearts Simmered W/ Sweet Soy [$12.00]
A trio of chicken offal conveyed a plethora of earthy, homey flavors countered by an assertively sweet-n-savory shiru. I quite liked the disparate textures, too.
ハマチと有馬山椒の炊き込みご飯 - Yellowtail & Japanese Sansho Peppercorn [$33.00]
As is tradition here, we ended with a serving of donabe rice, or takikomi gohan. The key was that back-and-forth between the full-flavored hamachi and the sheer zippiness of those peppercorns, all with some just-sticky-enough rice moderating the interaction. A cozy, comfy closer for sure.
As expected, tonight's dinner was pretty much spot-on, without really any complaints. Tatsu-san's cooking delivered exactly what I was seeking in order to get my izakaya fix, and reminded me once again why Tonchinkan's one of my favorite spots in the San Gabriel Valley. I'm sure I'll be back.
713 W Duarte Rd, Arcadia, CA 91007
626-461-5078
tonchinkan.izakaya.la
Fri 01/31/2025, 08:00p-12:30a
Ever since my first visit a few years back, Izakaya Tonchinkan (居酒屋 とんちんかん), also known as Nomiya Tonchinkan (呑み屋 とんちんかん), has remained one of my top picks for izakayas in the Los Angeles region. If you recall, the place was started by Tokyo native Yamato Miura (三浦大和), a former martial artist-slash-stuntman who first came to the US in June 2001 (age 16), ran a travel agency called Park Tour Services, and worked behind the bar at Sushi Gen and as a dishwasher at Urasawa. He decided to strike out on his own with the launch of Benten Ramen in 2013, which was followed by DTLA Ramen (2017), Tonchinkan (2018), Sushi Kisen (2021), Sushi Yamamoto (2023), Kaiseki Motoishi (2024), Sushidokoro Miyama (2024), and mostly recently, Sumibiyakitori Kidori, which opened in November. Some friends and I were looking for an izakaya-style place to open up some recently-acquired sakes (corkage is $25), and after considering a few options, decided on the always-reliable Tonchinkan.
Do note that the food is executed on a day-to-day basis by head chef Tatsu-san, a Tokyoite who started cooking here about a year after the place opened. Interestingly, he's actually known Miura for over a decade, before even the Ramen Benten days, and it was he who helped make this restaurant possible by introducing his boss to Takayuki Hori, who used to control this space back in the Hinotori days and was looking for someone to take it over.
Here we see Tonchinkan's oft-changing menu, which is basically exactly what you'd expect from an izakaya. Click for larger versions.
白子ぽんず "Shirako" Japanese Cod Milt W/ House Ponzu [$12.00]
Given that we were in the middle of the season, it made sense to start with some "white children." And indeed, the soft roe was on point, its gentle salinity pairing swimmingly with tangy ponzu and the zestiness of scallion. Very balanced.
北海道産 雲丹小箱 "Uni" - Hokkaido Sea Urchin Small Wooden Tray [$45.00]
We then moved on into another, much more popular type of gonad. The sea urchin possessed that classic, creamy, delicate sweetness that you want, which made a whole bunch of sense when paired with some seaweed and wasabi.
First to drink was the 2024 Hananoka Ubusuna Homase Shinojo Namazake (花の香 産土 穂増 四農釀 生酒), a limited-release kimoto bottling from Kumamoto Prefecture, made from a recently-revived strain of rice. The sake opened with a surprisingly forceful pop, and presented a very distinctly fresh-n-fizzy aroma filled with sweet, woodsy, lactic notes and traces of pâtisserie. On the palate, the nihonshu was quite effervescent, with a refreshing, lively character joined by plenty of sweet, ricey nuances and hints of tropical fruit and cedar. Quite an easy-drinker I must say.
みる貝 "Mirugai" - Giant Clam [$34.00]
Slices of geoduck showed off a satisfyingly supple crunch along with a creeping, lingering brine that really called for a smear of wasabi.
アンガス牛タンの塩焼き - Grilled Angus Beef Tongue [$28.00]
The gyūtan was a winner thanks to its tender, slightly chewy texture and full-throated flavors, perked up by pricks of pepper.
富山県産 白工ビ "Shiroebi" Japanese Glass Shrimp (Toyama) [$16.00]
Tiny, semi-translucent white shrimp from Toyama Bay were creamy on the tongue, their subtle, sophisticated sweetness well-accented by the sting of wasabi.
烏賊一夜干し Grilled, Over Night Dried Squid [$12.00]
Ika ichiyaboshi demonstrated a wonderful "snap" and an even more wonderful smoke that was partially offset by that surprisingly astringent sauce on the side.
Our second sake was the 2023 Hananoka Ubusuna Yamada Nishiki Rokunojo Namazake (花の香 産土 山田錦 六農釀 生酒), another kimoto brew from the same producer as the bottle above. The bouquet on this one was similar, though I'd say with less overt fruitiness and more of a lactic, woodsy character. Taking a sip, I found this less effervescent, smoother, and rounder, with a more apparent minerality to go along with all the sweet, ricey flavors present. Again, quite quaffable.
姫さざえ "Hime Sazae" Small Japanese Turban Shell [$18.00]
Cooked tsuboyaki-style, sea snails showcased a delightfully dense, chewy consistency and an elegantly oceany taste spiked with a touch of bitterness.
At this point, Tatsu-san gifted us a serving of deep-fried squid beak (イカトンビ唐揚, or ikatonbi karaage), which I don't think I've ever had before. I loved how the squid's sublimely soft, "snappy" consistency juxtaposed against its crispy outsides, while flavors were mouthwateringly salty and savory. A real treat.
めひかり唐揚げ "Mehikari" Deep Fried Greenling Fish [$12.00]
Greeneyes are an uncommon sight around these parts, so I felt compelled to order a serving tonight. The fish had a pleasingly light, "fluffy" texture, while their brininess worked hand-in-hand with an underlying bitterness.
トリュフ塩のフライドポテト Deep Fried Potato Wedges W/ Truffle Salt [$10.00]
Here we had what were essentially steak fries, a particularly hearty preparation amped up by the application of salt and a restrained truffle-fueled musk.
Our final drink was the 2023 Aramasa Colors Viridian Namazake (新政 ヴィリジアン - 天鵞絨 生酒), a jikagumi (直汲), kioke-style (木桶) bottling made with Misato Nishiki (美郷錦) rice. The sake was markedly different compared to the two above, starting with the nose, which was teeming with bold, sugary, juicy honeydew. Palate-wise, this was silky soft and thick, with more of those rich, sweet melon notes alongside subdued tropicals and light touches of wood, umami, and heat.
いぶりがっこチーズ "Iburigakko" Japanese Smoked Pickles w/ Cream Cheese [$12.00]
This was my first time having iburi gakko, and I have to say that it was a surprise favorite. The radish displayed a crunchy texture not unlike that of takuan, but what set it apart was its marvelous smoke, which was perfect when taken with that lush, creamy cheese on the side. It was a rather remarkable pairing.
烏の唐揚げ "Karaage" Japanese Style Soy Marinated, Fried Chicken [$9.00]
This was like an upgraded version of your classic Japanese fried chicken. The bird came out super juicy and tender, with deep, soulful, soy-boosted flavors that contrasted well with some aggressively crispy, craggly skin. Delicious either alone or with a dab of the provided condiments.
地鶏肝の甲州煮 Chicken Liver, Gizzard, and Hearts Simmered W/ Sweet Soy [$12.00]
A trio of chicken offal conveyed a plethora of earthy, homey flavors countered by an assertively sweet-n-savory shiru. I quite liked the disparate textures, too.
ハマチと有馬山椒の炊き込みご飯 - Yellowtail & Japanese Sansho Peppercorn [$33.00]
As is tradition here, we ended with a serving of donabe rice, or takikomi gohan. The key was that back-and-forth between the full-flavored hamachi and the sheer zippiness of those peppercorns, all with some just-sticky-enough rice moderating the interaction. A cozy, comfy closer for sure.
As expected, tonight's dinner was pretty much spot-on, without really any complaints. Tatsu-san's cooking delivered exactly what I was seeking in order to get my izakaya fix, and reminded me once again why Tonchinkan's one of my favorite spots in the San Gabriel Valley. I'm sure I'll be back.
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