Masamitsu Japanese Cuisine (San Marino, CA)
Masamitsu Sushi
2026 Huntington Dr, San Marino, CA 91108
626-281-9292
www.instagram.com/masamitsu.la/
Wed 01/08/2025, 07:20p-12:10a
In the 20-plus years of writing this blog, I'd never reported on a single restaurant in the tony SGV enclave of San Marino, but that all changed recently thanks to a visit to Masamitsu. I'd been hearing about the place for a while now, so a small group of us decided to check out their $175 omakase.
For those of you who've been around the area for a while, you might know that this address was once home to the old Sushi Bar Yoshida, which was opened by Yoshinobu Okatomi all the way back in 1999, after he'd previously operated the restaurant in Pasadena (at 2525 E Foothill Blvd--currently occupied by Sushiya) since '92. He stayed at this location for 20 years before selling it to John Xu, head of Maison Solutions, the company that operates the HK Good Fortune Supermarket chain. Okatomi also owned Ramen Naruto in Azusa, which opened back in June 2015, but it looks like he's sold that spot, too.
After the takeover, the restaurant underwent a month-long renovation and reopened in June 2019. However, during the pandemic, it appears that Xu took on a new group of partners in order to help him run the place, including some in the wine trade. Following another remodel, Yoshida reopened as Masamitsu in May 2022, which gets us to where we are today. Note that the name Masamitsu (雅光) translates to "elegant light" (yǎguāng) in Chinese, and was apparently chosen after ownership consulted a fortune teller.
As for who was running the sushi bar tonight, we were served by Okabe-san, an Aoyama (Tokyo) native who started his training early on at his father's sushi-ya. Prior to landing here, he worked at Ootoro locations in both DTLA and Irvine. Meanwhile, Itsuroku Kimura handles the cooked stuff back in the kitchen.
Pictured above is the view of the restaurant from the entrance. Do note that the decor has been tweaked further since the space reopened as Masamitsu.
Here we see the perspective from my seat, at the very far-left of the sushi counter. That's Chef Okabe pictured in front of us.
Masamitsu also boasts a separate dining area to the side, which was added on later (in the mid-2000s I believe) and now includes a private dining room.
1: Zensai
Our meal commenced with a trio of appetizers:
2: Maguro Sashimi
Next came two varieties of tuna sashimi. On the left was a fatty, luscious slice of otoro, one that melded easily with the creaminess of Santa Barbara uni while the caviar contributed a pinprick of salt. On the right was leaner tuna, but apparently one that'd had all its sinew removed, making it particularly silky on the palate, all while accoutrements of daikon and wasabi worked in concert with the soy.
One of my dining companions had recently returned from Japan, and thus brought back a bottle of the 2023 Aramasa No. 6 S-type (新政 ナンバーシックス エスタイプ) for us to enjoy. The bouquet offered juicy melon commixed with a subtle funk that I found quite fetching. On the palate, I detected a very light effervescence, along with plenty of acidity and brightness, while sweet notes of banana also made themselves clearly known. As the bottle chilled, I began getting less earthiness and more heat, more mineral on the nose, and on the tongue, the sake became rounder, sweeter, almost candied, with those earlier banana flavors giving way to loads of long-lasting honeydew. Do note that corkage is normally $25 a bottle ($50 for magnums), but was waived tonight thanks to arrangements made by another one of my dining companions.
3: Chawanmushi
Chawanmushi arrived hot and cozy, and was great for the cool weather we'd been having. Mushrooms added a necessary heft to the steamed egg, while Belgian caviar and black truffle imparted contrasting touches of luxury that were much appreciated.
The ginger was pretty much par for the course, and preceded the nigiri portion of our meal.
4: Kinmedai
We kicked things off with one of my favorite sushi toppings: golden eye snapper. The neta demonstrated a delightful smokiness that worked hand-in-hand with the fish's cool, creamy flesh, all while the rice was on the restrained side in terms of both texture and taste.
5: Sayori
A silvery slice of needlefish showed off a sophisticated salinity and a surprisingly satisfying mouthfeel to boot.
6: Mirugai
I generally enjoy seeing geoduck during an omakase, and this was no exception. I was a fan of the clam's chewy-yet-supple consistency, while its sweet-brine paired easily with the grassiness of the nori.
7: Shima Aji
The striped jack had a lovely texture that was almost "crunchy" in a way, and the fish also tended to emphasize the sweeter characteristics of the rice.
Our first bottle was accompanied by another from the same producer, the 2023 Aramasa Private Lab Amaneko (新政 プライベートラボ 亜麻猫). The aromas here were all about this "bready" sweetness that was pretty appealing. Taking a sip, I found the sake spicy and sweet, with a pert acidity, though less depth than the S-type. Interestingly, there was also this pastry-like element that actually reminded me of the smell of an 85°C Bakery Cafe (a good thing in my book).
8: Ni Kaki, Shirako Tempura
Here, I began with the cod milt, which was a standout and one of the strongest preparations I've had. I just loved the contrast between its crunchy fried exterior and the bite's creamy, briny insides, with the whole thing perked up by pinpricks of salt. Unfortunately, the simmered oyster wasn't nearly as successful, as it came out with a bit of a "sandy" consistency, while its flavors went in a somewhat muddy direction.
9: Kaisendon (Buri, Aji, Amaebi, Bafun Uni, Ikura, Ika, Zuwaigani)
Next up was a miniature donburi containing yellowtail, Japanese Spanish mackerel, sweet shrimp, sea urchin, salmon roe, squid, and snow crab. Each item of seafood was on point, and I appreciated the dish's base of just-sticky-enough, masago-studded rice. A fun take on the classic sashimi bowl.
10: Suimono
A homey, comforting clear soup was enhanced by plenty of woodsy mushrooms and tart bursts of citrus.
11: Torotaku Maki
A juxtaposition of lush, fatty tuna and tangy, crunchy pickled daikon was spot-on, with that whole interaction perfectly moderated by rice and seaweed.
12: Tamagoyaki
The arrival of the tamago usually signals the end of the meal, and Masamitsu's example was properly moist, with a lovely balance of sweet and savory.
13a: Matcha Cheesecake
Dessert time. The green tea cheesecake met the mark thanks to how its bittersweet matcha flavors played with the inherent richness of the cake.
Our final beverage was the 2023 Kamoshibito Kuheiji "Eau du Désir" Junmai Daiginjo. The nose on this one was slightly hot, with fragrant aromas of banana and bubblegum all over the place. The sake presented itself as soft, spicy, and slightly astringent on the palate, with more of those banana notes layered over a bit of a savory, ricey character.
13b: Kurogoma Ice Cream
I tend to gravitate towards black sesame ice cream if I'm given a choice, and tonight's example certainly displayed the nutty nuances I was expecting, but also this umami-ish, soy sauce-like quality.
13c: Vanilla Ice Cream
Interestingly, the vanilla was noticeably darker-tinted than most, and also quite a bit fruitier.
14: Shirako
We still weren't full by this point, so out came a complimentary serving of soft roe set in ponzu.
15: Chahan
We were also provided with a particularly meaty plate of fried rice that finally satiated us.
A surprising number of people have asked me about Masamitsu, so I'm glad that I was able to finally check the place out to see what all the ballyhoo was about. I was generally happy with the food, and there were some real standouts like the shirako, though my concern was that the meal was on the short side, hence the need for a plate of fried rice at the end. Nevertheless, Masamitsu does look to be a worthwhile addition to the San Gabriel Valley sushi scene, and as one of the better options in the area, seems like a "neighborhood-y" type of joint that's also a bit of a destination.
2026 Huntington Dr, San Marino, CA 91108
626-281-9292
www.instagram.com/masamitsu.la/
Wed 01/08/2025, 07:20p-12:10a
In the 20-plus years of writing this blog, I'd never reported on a single restaurant in the tony SGV enclave of San Marino, but that all changed recently thanks to a visit to Masamitsu. I'd been hearing about the place for a while now, so a small group of us decided to check out their $175 omakase.
For those of you who've been around the area for a while, you might know that this address was once home to the old Sushi Bar Yoshida, which was opened by Yoshinobu Okatomi all the way back in 1999, after he'd previously operated the restaurant in Pasadena (at 2525 E Foothill Blvd--currently occupied by Sushiya) since '92. He stayed at this location for 20 years before selling it to John Xu, head of Maison Solutions, the company that operates the HK Good Fortune Supermarket chain. Okatomi also owned Ramen Naruto in Azusa, which opened back in June 2015, but it looks like he's sold that spot, too.
After the takeover, the restaurant underwent a month-long renovation and reopened in June 2019. However, during the pandemic, it appears that Xu took on a new group of partners in order to help him run the place, including some in the wine trade. Following another remodel, Yoshida reopened as Masamitsu in May 2022, which gets us to where we are today. Note that the name Masamitsu (雅光) translates to "elegant light" (yǎguāng) in Chinese, and was apparently chosen after ownership consulted a fortune teller.
As for who was running the sushi bar tonight, we were served by Okabe-san, an Aoyama (Tokyo) native who started his training early on at his father's sushi-ya. Prior to landing here, he worked at Ootoro locations in both DTLA and Irvine. Meanwhile, Itsuroku Kimura handles the cooked stuff back in the kitchen.
Pictured above is the view of the restaurant from the entrance. Do note that the decor has been tweaked further since the space reopened as Masamitsu.
Here we see the perspective from my seat, at the very far-left of the sushi counter. That's Chef Okabe pictured in front of us.
Masamitsu also boasts a separate dining area to the side, which was added on later (in the mid-2000s I believe) and now includes a private dining room.
1: Zensai
Our meal commenced with a trio of appetizers:
- I began with the herring roe, with its "gritty" texture and plethora of heady, briny, umami-laden flavors, which were only further amped up by shavings of katsuobushi. Do note that kazunoko is a typical New Year's dish, so it was very appropriate to encounter it tonight.
- Lotus root ate fresh and crunchy, with a nice herby accent, and I really liked the extra oomph imparted by the spicy mentaiko.
- Lastly, we had a potato salad boosted by the addition of both shrimp and caviar, with some mango in there adding just a smidge of sweetness.
2: Maguro Sashimi
Next came two varieties of tuna sashimi. On the left was a fatty, luscious slice of otoro, one that melded easily with the creaminess of Santa Barbara uni while the caviar contributed a pinprick of salt. On the right was leaner tuna, but apparently one that'd had all its sinew removed, making it particularly silky on the palate, all while accoutrements of daikon and wasabi worked in concert with the soy.
One of my dining companions had recently returned from Japan, and thus brought back a bottle of the 2023 Aramasa No. 6 S-type (新政 ナンバーシックス エスタイプ) for us to enjoy. The bouquet offered juicy melon commixed with a subtle funk that I found quite fetching. On the palate, I detected a very light effervescence, along with plenty of acidity and brightness, while sweet notes of banana also made themselves clearly known. As the bottle chilled, I began getting less earthiness and more heat, more mineral on the nose, and on the tongue, the sake became rounder, sweeter, almost candied, with those earlier banana flavors giving way to loads of long-lasting honeydew. Do note that corkage is normally $25 a bottle ($50 for magnums), but was waived tonight thanks to arrangements made by another one of my dining companions.
3: Chawanmushi
Chawanmushi arrived hot and cozy, and was great for the cool weather we'd been having. Mushrooms added a necessary heft to the steamed egg, while Belgian caviar and black truffle imparted contrasting touches of luxury that were much appreciated.
The ginger was pretty much par for the course, and preceded the nigiri portion of our meal.
4: Kinmedai
We kicked things off with one of my favorite sushi toppings: golden eye snapper. The neta demonstrated a delightful smokiness that worked hand-in-hand with the fish's cool, creamy flesh, all while the rice was on the restrained side in terms of both texture and taste.
5: Sayori
A silvery slice of needlefish showed off a sophisticated salinity and a surprisingly satisfying mouthfeel to boot.
6: Mirugai
I generally enjoy seeing geoduck during an omakase, and this was no exception. I was a fan of the clam's chewy-yet-supple consistency, while its sweet-brine paired easily with the grassiness of the nori.
7: Shima Aji
The striped jack had a lovely texture that was almost "crunchy" in a way, and the fish also tended to emphasize the sweeter characteristics of the rice.
Our first bottle was accompanied by another from the same producer, the 2023 Aramasa Private Lab Amaneko (新政 プライベートラボ 亜麻猫). The aromas here were all about this "bready" sweetness that was pretty appealing. Taking a sip, I found the sake spicy and sweet, with a pert acidity, though less depth than the S-type. Interestingly, there was also this pastry-like element that actually reminded me of the smell of an 85°C Bakery Cafe (a good thing in my book).
8: Ni Kaki, Shirako Tempura
Here, I began with the cod milt, which was a standout and one of the strongest preparations I've had. I just loved the contrast between its crunchy fried exterior and the bite's creamy, briny insides, with the whole thing perked up by pinpricks of salt. Unfortunately, the simmered oyster wasn't nearly as successful, as it came out with a bit of a "sandy" consistency, while its flavors went in a somewhat muddy direction.
9: Kaisendon (Buri, Aji, Amaebi, Bafun Uni, Ikura, Ika, Zuwaigani)
Next up was a miniature donburi containing yellowtail, Japanese Spanish mackerel, sweet shrimp, sea urchin, salmon roe, squid, and snow crab. Each item of seafood was on point, and I appreciated the dish's base of just-sticky-enough, masago-studded rice. A fun take on the classic sashimi bowl.
10: Suimono
A homey, comforting clear soup was enhanced by plenty of woodsy mushrooms and tart bursts of citrus.
11: Torotaku Maki
A juxtaposition of lush, fatty tuna and tangy, crunchy pickled daikon was spot-on, with that whole interaction perfectly moderated by rice and seaweed.
12: Tamagoyaki
The arrival of the tamago usually signals the end of the meal, and Masamitsu's example was properly moist, with a lovely balance of sweet and savory.
13a: Matcha Cheesecake
Dessert time. The green tea cheesecake met the mark thanks to how its bittersweet matcha flavors played with the inherent richness of the cake.
Our final beverage was the 2023 Kamoshibito Kuheiji "Eau du Désir" Junmai Daiginjo. The nose on this one was slightly hot, with fragrant aromas of banana and bubblegum all over the place. The sake presented itself as soft, spicy, and slightly astringent on the palate, with more of those banana notes layered over a bit of a savory, ricey character.
13b: Kurogoma Ice Cream
I tend to gravitate towards black sesame ice cream if I'm given a choice, and tonight's example certainly displayed the nutty nuances I was expecting, but also this umami-ish, soy sauce-like quality.
13c: Vanilla Ice Cream
Interestingly, the vanilla was noticeably darker-tinted than most, and also quite a bit fruitier.
14: Shirako
We still weren't full by this point, so out came a complimentary serving of soft roe set in ponzu.
15: Chahan
We were also provided with a particularly meaty plate of fried rice that finally satiated us.
A surprising number of people have asked me about Masamitsu, so I'm glad that I was able to finally check the place out to see what all the ballyhoo was about. I was generally happy with the food, and there were some real standouts like the shirako, though my concern was that the meal was on the short side, hence the need for a plate of fried rice at the end. Nevertheless, Masamitsu does look to be a worthwhile addition to the San Gabriel Valley sushi scene, and as one of the better options in the area, seems like a "neighborhood-y" type of joint that's also a bit of a destination.
posted by kevinEats at
7:20 PM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]
<< Home