Paseo (Anaheim, CA)

Paseo Restaurant
1580 Disneyland Dr, Anaheim, CA 92802
714-204-3354
www.paseoanaheim.com
Sat 01/04/2025, 07:10p-09:40p



I think it's safe to say that the Downtown Disney District isn't widely considered a culinary destination, and indeed, I believe the last time I dined here was during the Bush administration, so yeah, it's been a while. What brought me back was a birthday dinner at Paseo, a promising new Mexican spot that opened at the end of April last year. The restaurant is the creation of the Chicago-based SOMOS Hospitality group, in partnership with Patina Restaurant Group (now part of Delaware North), and features food from Chef Carlos Gaytán.

About the Chef: Juan Carlos Gaytan was born in October 1970 in Huitzuco, a city in the Mexican state of Guerrero. As a youngster, he would help his grandfather farm, go hunting with his father, and assist his mother in the kitchen, all of which helped him develop an affinity for food. However, he wanted to escape Huitzuco, and at the urging of a cousin, thus ventured to the Chicago suburb of Wheeling in 1991 at the age of 20, borrowing the passport of a lookalike friend. This cousin also got him a job as a dishwasher at the nearby Sheraton North Shore Hotel in Northbrook (now the Renaissance Chicago North Shore Hotel).

However, the hotel's head chef, Jeff Miller, soon began training Gaytán in cookery, and this culinary education continued at other restaurants around town through a series of unpaid internships. In 1996, Gaytán joined the team at the Union League Club, a private social club in Chicago, starting off as the garde manger before becoming banquet chef. It was also during this period where he gained US citizenship, following his 1998 marriage to Iliamar Isaac (which eventually ended after 20 years). After eight years at the Club, he became Chef de Cuisine at traditional French spot Bistro Margot in April 2004, working under Dominique Tougne.

Gaytán decamped in 2007 with the goal of opening his own place serving French-influenced Mexican cuisine, and thus Mexique wound up debuting in West Town in May 2008. Things were a bit rocky starting out, but took a huge turn for the better when the restaurant received a Michelin star in November 2012 (it had been a Bib Gourmand selection since the first Chicago guide). This made Gaytán the first Mexican-born chef to ever be Michelin-starred, and he was able to retain the honor the following year. From May through July 2013, he was a contestant on Top Chef: New Orleans, finishing in 5th place; this was followed by a guest appearance on MasterChef México in 2016. In December 2017, Gaytán launched the higher-end Ha' at Hotel Xcaret in Playa del Carmen, which later received a Michelin star in May 2024 in the inaugural Red Guide for Mexico.

April 2018 saw him as a guest judge on Top Chef Canada, but shortly after that, in May, Mexique shuttered, as the Chef had seemingly lost his direction with the place. He therefore returned to Mexico for a year to travel, learn, and reflect (he also served as a judge on the reality cooking show Familias Frente al Fuego). Newly reinvigorated, he came back to Chicago and started working on opening his third restaurant, Tzuco (short for Huitzuco), which dropped in September 2019 in Near North Side. It was soon followed by Tales of Carlos Gaytán, a 12-seater tasting menu experience set within Tzuco, as well as a bakery next door called Panango; both are now closed. Tzuco, meanwhile, garnered "Best New Restaurant" semifinalist honors from James Beard in 2020, and continues to chug along.


Walk up Paseo's spiral staircase to be greeted by the host stand and bar.





Paseo takes over the home of Catal, which shut down in April 2023 after being open since 2001. The rather large space has been given a thorough makeover, and now sports a warmer, more contemporary aesthetic that speaks to the cuisine being served. Note that Paseo is also joined by the more casual Centrico (which replaced UVA Bar) as well as the fast-casual Tiendita (which replaced Sprinkles Cupcakes).


There's also an outdoor balcony dining area that affords guests a view of Disneyland's nightly fireworks.


Executed on a day-to-day basis by Chef Rudy Lopez (whom we last encountered at Soulmate), the menu at Paseo is fairly wide-ranging, drawing from across Mexico and even beyond; we also see the theme-appropriate cocktails offered. In addition, you can choose from a handful of easy-going beers, a selection of agave spirits, and a small wine list with a focus on Mexican bottlings (not shown). Corkage was $35. Click for larger versions.



Guacamole [$18.00 + $2.00] | haas avocados, tomato, cilantro, onion, lime, serrano, tortilla chips + chicharrón
Guac is almost always a sensible starter, and Paseo's version largely delivered, especially with the additional hits of crunch and salt from the fried pork skins. My only quibble was that I could've used a touch more acidity.


DTS [$16.00] | tierra zafiro blanco, chareau aloe liqueur, desert pear syrup, lime juice, prosecco
We made our way through a number of cocktails over the course of the meal, but unfortunately, this first one sort of whiffed. I found the drink clumsy and one-note, and heavy on the lime, though there was a pronounced floral component that did help even things out.



Queso Fundido [$17.00] | gruyère fondue, roasted wild mushrooms, salsa macha, chorizo verde, shallots, charred masa bread
A take on queso flameado worked for me. The use of Gruyère resulted in a more finespun character compared to most, but the cheese still functioned hand-in-hand with the punchy spice and savor of that chorizo, all while onions and 'shrooms added further facets to the dish. I was also quite impressed with the accompanying bread, which featured a nice toast alongside a delightfully tender crumb.


Tlayuda [$19.00] | blue oaxacan tostada, black bean purée, avocado mousse, cecina, chorizo, pork belly, salsa macha, oaxaca cheese
The clayuda was definitely a favorite of mine, largely due to how gratifyingly meaty it was. Also appreciated was the moderating effect of the beans and veggies, while the heat from those peppers certainly perked up the dish. Nice crisp-chewy texture on that tortilla base, too.


Manguiri [$17.00] | bacardi superior rum, mango syrup, peach syrup, lime juice, fee brothers foam
This innocuous-looking but surprisingly intense-tasting cocktail ended up going in a super floral, almost "soapy" direction, with a healthy dosing of sugary fruit hanging out in the background.


At this point, we were provided an extra serving of tortilla chips, which were excellent, with just the right amount of salt, crunch, and even a smidge of sweetness.


Esquites [$9.00] | locally sourced corn, epazote-garlic aioli, chili powder, lime juice
Corn was on point texturally and certainly made sense with traditional accoutrements of chili powder and lime, while that aioli imparted additional nuance to the classic antojito.


Maya-Tai [$18.00] | dos hombres mezcal, mandarin syrup, avocado pit orgeat, lime juice, angostura orange bitters, salted guava foam
I found this next cocktail a touch sweet, but didn't mind it too much given the foam, which had a delightful bit of savoriness that offered some semblance of balance.



Mama's Cochinita Pibil [$39.00] | pork shank marinated in guajillo pepper & homemade pineapple vinegar, slow-braised in banana leaves served with black bean purée, pickled red onion, salsa tatemada, corn tortillas
The puerco pibil was a must-order for us. I appreciated the tenderness of the long-cooked pork, and while it could've used a bit more pungency, I rather enjoyed the meat when wrapped up in one of those hearty, "black and white cookie" tortillas with a smear of bean and a splash of salsa.


Chile en Nogada [$29.00] | traditionally served, stuffed poblano pepper, veal picadillo, nogada walnut sauce, pomegranate seeds
The chiles en nogada was another one of our must-try dishes, and didn't disappoint. I was a fan of its deft marriage of sweet, nutty, and savory, all balanced out by the vegetal zing of the pepper itself.


Ritual Margarita [$18.00] | tierra zafiro blanco, giffard ginger liqueur, guava syrup, lime juice
Though I'm generally not huge into margaritas, this ended up being one of my favorite cocktails of the bunch. I think the key here was the floral, fragrant spice imparted by the ginger liqueur, which really integrated well with the rest of the ingredients. Surprisingly beguiling.


Pulpo Enamorado [$24.00] | roasted octopus, tuna aioli, salsa macha, pickled vegetables
Pulpo arrived decently tender, with a nicely seasoned crust, but the big surprise here was that tuna, which served as a smart contrast to the octo, effectively elevating both ingredients.


Yucatán Fish [$42.00] | catch of the day marinated in achiote & orange, wrapped in banana leaf, sweet potato purée, creamy habanero sauce, tomato & avocado salad
Mahi-mahi arrived satisfyingly textured, with some delectable seasoning to boot (I'm assuming from the annatto), and I liked how the salad up top lightened the mood.


Espresso Martini [$18.00] | carajillo style, helix vodka, nixta licor de elote, licor 43, la colombe cold brew
This riff on the ubiquitous espresso martini was more delicate than most, as the cocktail tended to show off this sweeter, dark fruit character ahead of the roastiness of the coffee.


Tuna Ceviche [$25.00] | tuna, charred tomatillo soy aguachile, cucumber, red onion, avocado, choclo, cilantro criollo
Next up was actually one of the more intriguing tuna ceviches I've had. What I appreciated here was its sheer smokiness, which really made the dish for me. At the same time, I liked all those salty, crunchy bits, while the avocado and herbs did a great job taming all the flavors going on.


Brussels Sprouts [$11.00] | chorizo, lemon juice
Brussels were great in terms of texture, and demonstrated a lovely roastiness as well, while the sour spice from the chorizo added further oomph to the dish.


Gold Rush [$24.00]
One of my dining companions ordered a "dealer's choice" whiskey cocktail, and ended up with a pretty much by-the-book Gold Rush made with Woodford Reserve bourbon.


Yucatán Ceviche [$24.00] | hamachi, baby cucumbers, fried plantains, mango-habanero gelée, achiote aguachile
Our second ceviche was also a winner thanks to how swimmingly the cuts of fatty fish meshed with both the sweeter notes in the dish as well as the pepperiness from the achiote.


Arroz Rojo [$7.00] | mexican rice, tomato broth, peas, carrots
The red rice was spot-on, and had that "fluffiness" I was looking for along with some familiar, cozy spicing.


Xaman Old-Fashioned [$18.00] | nocheluna sotol, nixta licor de elote, piloncillo syrup, bittermens xocolatl mole bitters, smoke top
This final cocktail was certainly the booziest of the lot, but also one of the best. Decidedly thick in the mouth, the drink wasn't shy about its plethora of woodsy smoke and sweet spices, set over a base of boozy heat and sugary, cacao-ish flavors.


Enchiladas de Pollo [$31.00] | corn tortillas filled with shredded chicken, topped with salsa verde, avocado, sour cream, lettuce, tomato, red onion, queso fresco
The enchiladas were pretty textbook, but crafted with a bit more finesse than most.


Short Rib [$54.00] | braised short ribs, oven-roasted tomato, charred avocado, pinto beans, blend of guajillo & ancho chiles, flour tortillas
Short ribs displayed all the rich, dark-toned, long-cooked flavors I was hoping for, though it was perhaps a touch dry in spots. Nevertheless, the beef was certainly tasty when wrapped up in a stretchy flour tortilla with tangy tomatoes and a dash of salsa.


At this point, we moved on into some beers that I'd brought, starting with the 2016 Casey Leaner, an oak-aged saison with Flamecrest peaches, created in collaboration with Side Project Brewing. On the nose, fantastically intense aromas of candied peaches and barnyard. On the palate, more sweet stone fruit perfectly juxtaposed against plenty of sourness and acidity, along with this blue cheese-esque funk that I reveled in. This is a beer that's held up beautifully over the years--just delightful.


Paseo's dessert menu listed four options, and we ended up getting 'em all. Click for a larger version.


Cacao [$15.00] | dark chocolate sorbet, spice sponge cake, orange zest purée, cinnamon foam, cacao nibs
Our first postre featured a visually striking faux cocoa bean that made for some delightful textures when broken. Add to that a familiar interplay between chocolate and citrus, punctuated by baking spices, and you wind up with a rather successful dessert.


Snowman [$15.00] | yogurt streusel, rosemary ice cream, tangerine mousse, orange peel, cardamom cake
This cute, whimsically-presented dessert was also to my liking, reminding me of a light cheesecake at times, with supporting elements of sweet spice and herb.


Next to drink was a dessert beer, the 2024 Horus Gourmet Nilla del Cerrito, a blend of bourbon barrel-aged imperial stouts with DRC vanilla beans added. The ale smelled of wonderfully soft, sweet vanilla all over the place. In terms of taste, I got loads more of that immensely appealing fragrant vanilla set against elements of oak, dark fruits, and chocolate milk. A superb effort, and one of the best vanilla stouts I've had in a long while.


Arroz con Leche [$14.00] | rice pudding, toasted white chocolate, rice krispies, pink peppercorn ice cream
Paseo's version of arroz con leche also met the mark. The dessert was what I wanted in terms of both the consistency of the rice and the dish's sweet spicing and citrus notes, while the puffed rice imparted a welcomed crunch.


Pavlova [$15.00] | classic mexican merengue, guava sorbet, fresh horchata-orange foam
I was also quite fond of the pavlova, with its tart, tropical, guava-fueled sweetness on proud display, tempered just enough by a stark dome of baked meringue.


Last to drink came the 2023 Horus Squeeze the Batter, an imperial stout with Saigon cinnamon, wild Thai bananas, and Wisconsin maple syrup, aged in Kentucky Owl bourbon barrels. Inspired by banana pancakes, the beer highlighted aromas of cinnamon-y spice intertwined with banana. Taking a sip, I found more banana and sweet spices, but with the overt sugariness of the maple coming in on the back end and lingering long.


A complimentary serving of chocolate sorbet (from the cacao dessert above, I assume) was provided for the birthday girl.

I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised by the food at Paseo, especially given the restaurant's location. I think the team here has done a pretty commendable job expressing the essence of contemporary pan-Mexican cuisine while still keeping the cooking relatively accessible. I have to imagine that this is the best place to eat in Downtown Disney, and we didn't have qualms with tonight's service, either. However, dining here was a bit of a logistical nightmare. The first problem is that the whole parking situation was godawful; I ended up wasting 40 minutes of my life getting in and out of the lot and was rewarded with a parking spot that necessitated a half-mile walk in order to get to the restaurant. And then there's the issue of security, as these days you have to go through an almost airport-style screening before even stepping foot in Downtown Disney. I ended up getting detained for a couple of reasons. First, I had brought with me a set of kitchen tweezers from Disfrutar to give as gifts to my fellow dining companions, but was told that they were considered weapons. Then there was the issue of the drinks that I'd brought, both because of the alcohol aspect and the fact that they were glass bottles. So we have the case of Paseo offering a corkage option, yet the actual bringing of bottles onto the property is prohibited. After going back-and-forth with the screening personnel, a security officer was eventually called in, and I had to be escorted from the checkpoint to the restaurant entrance. This was a ridiculous amount of rigmarole required just to have dinner, and I ended up being about 35 minutes late as a result, so obviously I'm going to think twice about going through the whole ordeal again.