Vin Folk (Hermosa Beach, CA)
VinFolk Restaurant
1501 Hermosa Ave, Hermosa Beach, CA 90254
424-473-5909
www.vin-folk.com
Thu 01/16/2025, 07:30p-11:05p
You might recall that I had a great meal over at the new incarnation of Somni recently. Well, during that dinner, I got to talking with the person sitting to my right, and he ended up highly recommending this new restaurant in Hermosa Beach called Vin Folk. Given Hermosa's generally lackluster culinary reputation, I was skeptical, but when he mentioned that it was run by a pair of Somni 1.0 alums, my interest was piqued. After doing some research, I decided to check out the place, which had grand-opened just recently on November 27th. The two Somni alums in charge here are Executive Chef Kevin de los Santos and Chef de Cuisine Katya Shastova, who actually met at Somni and are now partners both in business and in life.
About the Chefs: Kevin Joseph de los Santos was born in August 1993 in the Philippines. After graduating from De La Salle Santiago Zobel School, he attended the University of Santo Tomas for four years, graduating in 2015 with a bachelor's in hospitality management. During this period, he worked at the nearby New World Makati Hotel, but left Manila soon after attaining his degree. He thus immigrated to the United States and attended the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone for eight months as part of the school's Accelerated Culinary Arts Certificate Program (ACAP). De los Santos finished in March 2016, and just a couple months later, became a line cook at The Bazaar.
However, the position didn't last long, and in October that year, he transitioned over to Ink, and later Ink.well. He then spent two months at Nobu starting in November 2017 before becoming part of the opening team at the original Somni, where he mostly focused on pastry. He stayed until the end of October 2019, and following the start of the COVID-19 crisis, joined Vespertine in order to help execute their high-end takeout menus. It was also during the pandemic when De los Santos started a private tasting menu concept called I Can't Tell You, which ran from at least September 2020 to July 2023. In June 2021, he became sous chef at The Bungalow Kitchen in Long Beach, then cooked at Maude before starting work on Vin Folk.
Born in May 1991, Ekaterina Shastova hails from Russia, and from September 2008 to February 2011, studied English and German language at Kurgan State University. However, she also started exploring the world of cooking around this time, and soon decided that she wanted to pursue a career in that realm instead. Thus, in 2012, she moved to Southern California, starting out in the industry as a server for The Gourmet Girl, a catering company run by Juliet Demirjian. In October 2015, she enrolled in the culinary arts program at Los Angeles Trade–Technical College, and completed her certificate degree in August 2017. During her time at LATTC, Shastova transitioned over to a cooking role at The Gourmet Girl, and following graduation, also took on a line cook position at The NoMad. She stayed there until the end of 2018, and in February 2019, joined the crew at Somni, which is where she first met De los Santos. Once the pandemic hit, she went over to Vespertine, and later cooked at Etta and Maude, while also helping out with the I Can't Tell You dinners.
The third leg of the partnership is Director of Operations Christina Montoya, née Long (b. August 1980), a native of Alexandria, VA and UCLA alumna (c/o '10, anthropology). Boasting over two decades of hospitality experience, she actually cut her teeth in the South Bay at the likes of Gasser Lounge in Redondo Beach and 1321 Downtown Taproom Bistro in Torrance. Joining her in the front-of-the-house is Idean Hashemian (b. September 1990), who comes to us from nearby Rancho Palos Verdes and manages the wine program. A 2012 grad from Cal Poly SLO, he started out at Southern Wine & Spirits before becoming a Subway franchisee, developing the Poke Me brand, and joining the Vin Folk team. Finally, we have Pastry Chef Lei Elmann (b. November 1991), a CIA '17 graduate who started her career at the Monarch Beach Resort in Dana Point before cooking at Bon Temps, Vespertine (where she met the Chefs), Bottega Louie, Destroyer, Etta, Mes Amis, and Botanica.
Vin Folk takes over a space that was previously home to Chef Melba's Bistro (opened 2005) and Lee's Teriyaki & Tofu before that. The dining room has been remodeled by Miori Nakamura Design and now sports a classier, more brasserie-ish vibe. There's also outdoor seating, if you prefer.
Vin Folk's menu is fairly compact, which I like, and speaks to the Chefs' propensity to draw for across the culinary spectrum. To drink, you get a reasonably diverse wine list along with some beers, sakes, and low-ABV cocktails. Click for larger versions.
Headcheese Toast [$15.00] | Pork Head Cheese, Hokkaido Milk Bread, Sauerkraut & Sliced American
Head cheese is one of those things that I always have to order, and tonight's example functioned wonderfully in canapé form. The salty, porky qualities of the forcemeat was front and center, perked up a tad by the sour 'kraut and enveloped by a familiar cheesiness, all while the shokupan moderated it all. The bites were even better with a dab of that karashi mustard on the side.
To drink, I opted for a bottle of sparkling wine, the Lise & Bertrand Jousset Éxilé Pétillant Rosé, Loire Valley, 2022 [$71]. I was looking for something easy-going, and the pét-nat certainly fit the bill with its abundance of bright, fresh, dry, strawberry-esque notes, all supported by a noticeable minerality.
Yellowtail [$24.00] | Fried Shallot Oil, Ikra, Aleppo & Capers
Slices of yellowtail set the stage for a bunch of assertive flavors that, thankfully, didn't manage to overwhelm the fish. What struck me first was this almost tomato-like sweet-tartness up front, leading to the signature savoriness of fried shallots, while the back end displayed this pickle-y tang and just a trace of heat.
Pritto [$16.00] | Fried Jidori Chicken, Zucchini & Fennel Pollen Togarashi
Taking inspiration from xiánsūjī, Vin Folk's interpretation of fried chicken really did capture the quintessence of the classic Taiwanese dish. The bird's texture--both the juicy insides and the crunchy exterior--was just what I wanted, and I really enjoyed the beguiling nature of the seasoning utilized. Also included in the mix were pieces of fried zucchini, which actually made me think of the version served at Carl's Jr (a good thing in my book).
Mussels Tart [$18.00] | Puff Pastry, Fennel & Whelk Cream, Escabeche
Here was another favorite of the evening, and probably one of the best mussel dishes I've ever had. The mussels themselves were spot-on both in terms of taste and texture, and I loved how they played with the crunch and bitterness of the fennel. However, the star of the show was that pâte feuilletée, which served as a great foil to the stronger flavors going on, and was as light and flaky and shattery as you'd hope for.
Spiny Lobster [$32.00] | Leche De Tigre
Shards of Santa Barbara spiny lobster ate tender and subtly "snappy," with a palpable sweetness. I liked how the sourness from the ceviche complemented the isēbi without ever getting in the way, while bits of toasted corn imparted a delightfully salty crunch.
With the sparkler above all drunk up, I moved on to some sour beer, specifically the Cascade Framboise NW Sour, Portland [$15] (which the restaurant forgot to charge me for). This one was definitely on the gluggable side, with loads of tart strawberry and pomegranate all over the place, though I would've liked to have tasted some more barnyard-y notes.
Beef Tongue [$22.00] | Hrenovina & Tatsoi
The tongue was another must-order, and didn't disappoint either. The offal arrived tender and hearty, with a sophisticated beefiness and a lovely touch of char. I was a big fan of the offsetting bitterness from the tat choy, and an even bigger fan of the piquant, underlying heat from the khrenovina.
Chili Crab [$36.00] | Arborio Rice, Santa Barbara Rock Crab, & Egg
Given my penchant for risotto, this thoroughly rejiggered version was certainly calling my name. The rice itself had the mouthfeel and consistency I was seeking, and I appreciated how the dish so effectively captured the depth and potency and oceany goodness of the stone crab.
Next to imbibe was the Aaron Burr Homestead Cider, Hudson Valley [$20], which met the mark with its plethora of crisp apple and delicately vinous notes, set over an appropriately dry, mineral-y, slightly earthy backbone.
Jowl & Mackerel [$20.00] | Mackerel Tonnato, Assorted Pickles & Potato
Pork jowl is another ingredient that beckons to me whenever I see it on a menu. Vin Folk's preparation showcased that fatty-yet-lean texture I wanted, while its decidedly porcine qualities were well-complemented by a healthy dose of smoke. A mackerel-boosted tonnato amped up the dish even further, while pickles and cool, mild chunks of potato kept it all in check.
Cabbage [$16.00] | Pistachio, Allium Dukkha & Meyer Lemon
I liked how the kitchen decided to end with the cabbage, as it was one of the most creative presentations I'd ever seen of the humble veggie. I appreciated the aggressive charring here, which paired easily with the cabbage's mildly bitter, crunchy character, but even more crucial was the dish's bevy of nutty, spicy, and even chocolate-y flavors, which demonstrated a lot of confidence.
Lei Elmann's dessert menu generally follows the theme set forth by the savories, and is accompanied by a varied selection of postprandial libations. Click for larger versions.
Koko Crunch [$20.00] | Chocolate 6 ways
Our first dessert was inspired by Elmann's favorite childhood cereal from the Philippines: Koko Krunch. And indeed, I did get those nostalgic breakfast cereal notes, which for me recalled an amalgam of Cocoa Krispies and Cocoa Puffs, especially when paired with a side of that Straus milk. This was such a smart, multifaceted exploration of chocolate, with some great textural play to boot, and even featured a dusting of asín tibuok salt. In fact, I'd say that it was the best chocolate dessert I've had in quite a while.
Single White Female [$16.00] | Hi-Fi Espresso, PX Sherry, Veso Vanilla Nightfall, Licorice Root & Citrus Oleo
The lone dessert cocktail offering also delivered with its array of nuanced flavors, and its overall effect actually reminded me of orange-covered chocolate.
Kid & Her Horn [$16.00] | Goat Fromage Blanc, Pear, Buckwheat Honey Granita & Sorrel
The kitchen then sent out this next dessert on the house. It consisted of a goat cheese mousse, compressed pear with vermouth, buckwheat honey granita, sorrel, fennel, and a crunchy "horn" on top. I was surprised by how contemplative this was due to its sweet-savory-herbaceous interplay, which made for a clever dish that seems like it's pushing the bounds of what's acceptable for a dessert in this neighborhood.
Along with the dessert above came a pour of the Le Pecheur, Port, Los Olivos [$12], a palate-coating vin doux teeming with rich, robust red fruit.
Condensed Milk Ice Cream [$8.00]
Last up: a creamy condensed milk ice cream with a relatively restrained sweetness served as a counterpoint to the more assertive desserts on the table.
I'm really glad that I heeded the recommendation of my fellow Somni diner, as tonight's meal at Vin Folk was superb, especially considering that the spot just opened. De los Santos and Shastova describe their cuisine as "seasonal multi-generational cooking," and though I'm not sure what that means, I will say that it really hit the spot. The food boasts both elevation and ease, and speaks to the Chefs' backgrounds while feeling right at home in a neighborhood-y, neo-bistro-ish setting. Vin Folk is raising the bar for the area, and I have no qualms deeming it the best place to eat in Hermosa Beach. Denizens of the South Bay: this is one that you need to check out, pronto.
1501 Hermosa Ave, Hermosa Beach, CA 90254
424-473-5909
www.vin-folk.com
Thu 01/16/2025, 07:30p-11:05p
You might recall that I had a great meal over at the new incarnation of Somni recently. Well, during that dinner, I got to talking with the person sitting to my right, and he ended up highly recommending this new restaurant in Hermosa Beach called Vin Folk. Given Hermosa's generally lackluster culinary reputation, I was skeptical, but when he mentioned that it was run by a pair of Somni 1.0 alums, my interest was piqued. After doing some research, I decided to check out the place, which had grand-opened just recently on November 27th. The two Somni alums in charge here are Executive Chef Kevin de los Santos and Chef de Cuisine Katya Shastova, who actually met at Somni and are now partners both in business and in life.
About the Chefs: Kevin Joseph de los Santos was born in August 1993 in the Philippines. After graduating from De La Salle Santiago Zobel School, he attended the University of Santo Tomas for four years, graduating in 2015 with a bachelor's in hospitality management. During this period, he worked at the nearby New World Makati Hotel, but left Manila soon after attaining his degree. He thus immigrated to the United States and attended the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone for eight months as part of the school's Accelerated Culinary Arts Certificate Program (ACAP). De los Santos finished in March 2016, and just a couple months later, became a line cook at The Bazaar.
However, the position didn't last long, and in October that year, he transitioned over to Ink, and later Ink.well. He then spent two months at Nobu starting in November 2017 before becoming part of the opening team at the original Somni, where he mostly focused on pastry. He stayed until the end of October 2019, and following the start of the COVID-19 crisis, joined Vespertine in order to help execute their high-end takeout menus. It was also during the pandemic when De los Santos started a private tasting menu concept called I Can't Tell You, which ran from at least September 2020 to July 2023. In June 2021, he became sous chef at The Bungalow Kitchen in Long Beach, then cooked at Maude before starting work on Vin Folk.
Born in May 1991, Ekaterina Shastova hails from Russia, and from September 2008 to February 2011, studied English and German language at Kurgan State University. However, she also started exploring the world of cooking around this time, and soon decided that she wanted to pursue a career in that realm instead. Thus, in 2012, she moved to Southern California, starting out in the industry as a server for The Gourmet Girl, a catering company run by Juliet Demirjian. In October 2015, she enrolled in the culinary arts program at Los Angeles Trade–Technical College, and completed her certificate degree in August 2017. During her time at LATTC, Shastova transitioned over to a cooking role at The Gourmet Girl, and following graduation, also took on a line cook position at The NoMad. She stayed there until the end of 2018, and in February 2019, joined the crew at Somni, which is where she first met De los Santos. Once the pandemic hit, she went over to Vespertine, and later cooked at Etta and Maude, while also helping out with the I Can't Tell You dinners.
The third leg of the partnership is Director of Operations Christina Montoya, née Long (b. August 1980), a native of Alexandria, VA and UCLA alumna (c/o '10, anthropology). Boasting over two decades of hospitality experience, she actually cut her teeth in the South Bay at the likes of Gasser Lounge in Redondo Beach and 1321 Downtown Taproom Bistro in Torrance. Joining her in the front-of-the-house is Idean Hashemian (b. September 1990), who comes to us from nearby Rancho Palos Verdes and manages the wine program. A 2012 grad from Cal Poly SLO, he started out at Southern Wine & Spirits before becoming a Subway franchisee, developing the Poke Me brand, and joining the Vin Folk team. Finally, we have Pastry Chef Lei Elmann (b. November 1991), a CIA '17 graduate who started her career at the Monarch Beach Resort in Dana Point before cooking at Bon Temps, Vespertine (where she met the Chefs), Bottega Louie, Destroyer, Etta, Mes Amis, and Botanica.
Vin Folk takes over a space that was previously home to Chef Melba's Bistro (opened 2005) and Lee's Teriyaki & Tofu before that. The dining room has been remodeled by Miori Nakamura Design and now sports a classier, more brasserie-ish vibe. There's also outdoor seating, if you prefer.
Vin Folk's menu is fairly compact, which I like, and speaks to the Chefs' propensity to draw for across the culinary spectrum. To drink, you get a reasonably diverse wine list along with some beers, sakes, and low-ABV cocktails. Click for larger versions.
Headcheese Toast [$15.00] | Pork Head Cheese, Hokkaido Milk Bread, Sauerkraut & Sliced American
Head cheese is one of those things that I always have to order, and tonight's example functioned wonderfully in canapé form. The salty, porky qualities of the forcemeat was front and center, perked up a tad by the sour 'kraut and enveloped by a familiar cheesiness, all while the shokupan moderated it all. The bites were even better with a dab of that karashi mustard on the side.
To drink, I opted for a bottle of sparkling wine, the Lise & Bertrand Jousset Éxilé Pétillant Rosé, Loire Valley, 2022 [$71]. I was looking for something easy-going, and the pét-nat certainly fit the bill with its abundance of bright, fresh, dry, strawberry-esque notes, all supported by a noticeable minerality.
Yellowtail [$24.00] | Fried Shallot Oil, Ikra, Aleppo & Capers
Slices of yellowtail set the stage for a bunch of assertive flavors that, thankfully, didn't manage to overwhelm the fish. What struck me first was this almost tomato-like sweet-tartness up front, leading to the signature savoriness of fried shallots, while the back end displayed this pickle-y tang and just a trace of heat.
Pritto [$16.00] | Fried Jidori Chicken, Zucchini & Fennel Pollen Togarashi
Taking inspiration from xiánsūjī, Vin Folk's interpretation of fried chicken really did capture the quintessence of the classic Taiwanese dish. The bird's texture--both the juicy insides and the crunchy exterior--was just what I wanted, and I really enjoyed the beguiling nature of the seasoning utilized. Also included in the mix were pieces of fried zucchini, which actually made me think of the version served at Carl's Jr (a good thing in my book).
Mussels Tart [$18.00] | Puff Pastry, Fennel & Whelk Cream, Escabeche
Here was another favorite of the evening, and probably one of the best mussel dishes I've ever had. The mussels themselves were spot-on both in terms of taste and texture, and I loved how they played with the crunch and bitterness of the fennel. However, the star of the show was that pâte feuilletée, which served as a great foil to the stronger flavors going on, and was as light and flaky and shattery as you'd hope for.
Spiny Lobster [$32.00] | Leche De Tigre
Shards of Santa Barbara spiny lobster ate tender and subtly "snappy," with a palpable sweetness. I liked how the sourness from the ceviche complemented the isēbi without ever getting in the way, while bits of toasted corn imparted a delightfully salty crunch.
With the sparkler above all drunk up, I moved on to some sour beer, specifically the Cascade Framboise NW Sour, Portland [$15] (which the restaurant forgot to charge me for). This one was definitely on the gluggable side, with loads of tart strawberry and pomegranate all over the place, though I would've liked to have tasted some more barnyard-y notes.
Beef Tongue [$22.00] | Hrenovina & Tatsoi
The tongue was another must-order, and didn't disappoint either. The offal arrived tender and hearty, with a sophisticated beefiness and a lovely touch of char. I was a big fan of the offsetting bitterness from the tat choy, and an even bigger fan of the piquant, underlying heat from the khrenovina.
Chili Crab [$36.00] | Arborio Rice, Santa Barbara Rock Crab, & Egg
Given my penchant for risotto, this thoroughly rejiggered version was certainly calling my name. The rice itself had the mouthfeel and consistency I was seeking, and I appreciated how the dish so effectively captured the depth and potency and oceany goodness of the stone crab.
Next to imbibe was the Aaron Burr Homestead Cider, Hudson Valley [$20], which met the mark with its plethora of crisp apple and delicately vinous notes, set over an appropriately dry, mineral-y, slightly earthy backbone.
Jowl & Mackerel [$20.00] | Mackerel Tonnato, Assorted Pickles & Potato
Pork jowl is another ingredient that beckons to me whenever I see it on a menu. Vin Folk's preparation showcased that fatty-yet-lean texture I wanted, while its decidedly porcine qualities were well-complemented by a healthy dose of smoke. A mackerel-boosted tonnato amped up the dish even further, while pickles and cool, mild chunks of potato kept it all in check.
Cabbage [$16.00] | Pistachio, Allium Dukkha & Meyer Lemon
I liked how the kitchen decided to end with the cabbage, as it was one of the most creative presentations I'd ever seen of the humble veggie. I appreciated the aggressive charring here, which paired easily with the cabbage's mildly bitter, crunchy character, but even more crucial was the dish's bevy of nutty, spicy, and even chocolate-y flavors, which demonstrated a lot of confidence.
Lei Elmann's dessert menu generally follows the theme set forth by the savories, and is accompanied by a varied selection of postprandial libations. Click for larger versions.
Koko Crunch [$20.00] | Chocolate 6 ways
Our first dessert was inspired by Elmann's favorite childhood cereal from the Philippines: Koko Krunch. And indeed, I did get those nostalgic breakfast cereal notes, which for me recalled an amalgam of Cocoa Krispies and Cocoa Puffs, especially when paired with a side of that Straus milk. This was such a smart, multifaceted exploration of chocolate, with some great textural play to boot, and even featured a dusting of asín tibuok salt. In fact, I'd say that it was the best chocolate dessert I've had in quite a while.
Single White Female [$16.00] | Hi-Fi Espresso, PX Sherry, Veso Vanilla Nightfall, Licorice Root & Citrus Oleo
The lone dessert cocktail offering also delivered with its array of nuanced flavors, and its overall effect actually reminded me of orange-covered chocolate.
Kid & Her Horn [$16.00] | Goat Fromage Blanc, Pear, Buckwheat Honey Granita & Sorrel
The kitchen then sent out this next dessert on the house. It consisted of a goat cheese mousse, compressed pear with vermouth, buckwheat honey granita, sorrel, fennel, and a crunchy "horn" on top. I was surprised by how contemplative this was due to its sweet-savory-herbaceous interplay, which made for a clever dish that seems like it's pushing the bounds of what's acceptable for a dessert in this neighborhood.
Along with the dessert above came a pour of the Le Pecheur, Port, Los Olivos [$12], a palate-coating vin doux teeming with rich, robust red fruit.
Condensed Milk Ice Cream [$8.00]
Last up: a creamy condensed milk ice cream with a relatively restrained sweetness served as a counterpoint to the more assertive desserts on the table.
I'm really glad that I heeded the recommendation of my fellow Somni diner, as tonight's meal at Vin Folk was superb, especially considering that the spot just opened. De los Santos and Shastova describe their cuisine as "seasonal multi-generational cooking," and though I'm not sure what that means, I will say that it really hit the spot. The food boasts both elevation and ease, and speaks to the Chefs' backgrounds while feeling right at home in a neighborhood-y, neo-bistro-ish setting. Vin Folk is raising the bar for the area, and I have no qualms deeming it the best place to eat in Hermosa Beach. Denizens of the South Bay: this is one that you need to check out, pronto.
posted by kevinEats at
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