Yakitori Nishi (Lomita, CA)

Yakitori Nishi
2040 Pacific Coast Hwy, Lomita, CA 90717
424-263-5053
www.instagram.com/yakitori_nishi/
Sun 01/26/2025, 07:15p-10:25p





Regular readers will probably know that I have a bit of a weakness for yakitori, and so when I found out about a promising new spot by the name of Yakitori Nishi (焼鳥西), I just had to prioritize a visit. The place opened at the end of September last year, and is run by a Japanese couple: Chef Koichiro Nishi and his wife Yume, who coordinates the FOH and previously worked at Izakaya Hachi.

About the Chef: Nishi Koichiro (西光一郎) was born in February 1989 and hails from the Hakata ward of Fukuoka city. He immigrated to the United States in 2007 at age 18 and soon secured employment at the Shin-Sen-Gumi group, where he stayed for a whopping 17 years. During his tenure at SSG, he mostly worked at the original restaurant in Gardena, where he rose up the ranks and eventually became part of the leadership team. Meanwhile, his final two years with Shinsengumi were at the company's location in Fountain Valley, which had debuted back in 2000.

In 2022, Nishi happened to meet Yoya Takahashi, who's probably most known for being the former head chef at the longstanding Hamasaku in Westwood. The two became friends, and later decided to launch a pop-up by the name of Smokmoc Yakitori. Their first event occurred in October 2023, held at El Barrio Cantina in Long Beach. A couple other pop-ups followed, but by early 2024, Nishi had left the partnership, though Smokmoc is still happening under the guidance of Takahashi. I have to imagine that the reason behind the departure was that the Chef decided that he wanted to strike out on his own and get Yakitori Nishi up and running, as he'd formally incorporated the business that March.


Yakitori Nishi takes over the former home of Fukanoya, and the space has only been lightly remodeled. Prior to Fukanoya, the storefront held the likes of Restaurant Miura, Aldo's Italian Deli, and Leonardo's Deli. As you can see, it's a fairly small restaurant, with room for six at the bar and maybe 16 more spread across four tables.


Yakitori Nishi's menu is relatively compact, with an array of skewers joined by a smattering of smaller dishes. To drink, you get a brief selection of sake, a handful of beers, shochu, and a couple of wines. Corkage is $30, limit one. Click for larger versions.


Hatsu (Chicken heart) [$4.50] | ハツ
The meal got off to a very strong start thanks to the heart, which actually combined your standard kokoro with hatsumoto (a.k.a. "special heart"). I don't think I've seen this approach elsewhere, which is a shame, because it made for a real textural treat with its mix of snappy, slick, and chewy bits. Taste-wise, the skewer was eminently refined, with a subtle charring that contributed just the right amount of smoke. An early favorite.


Okura (Okra) [$3.50] | オクラ
I've grown to become quite an okra fan, so this immediately caught my attention as far as the non-chicken skewers went. The seed pods were exactly what I wanted in terms of their mucilage, and I enjoyed how their light, bright taste meshed with the subdued searing going on.


Zuri (Chicken gizzard) [$4.50] | 砂ずり
Sunagimo had that trademark tough, gritty, crunchy, yet yielding consistency I was looking for, while its assertive flavors were joined by a growing saltiness.


To drink, I opened up a bottle of the 2014 Upland Dantalion Dark Wild Ale, an oud bruin-inspired, oak-aged sour beer. The nose here was all about tart dark fruits, cherry in particular, but with a bit of a metallic tinge and a touch of barnyard. Taking a sip, I found plenty more sour cherry commingled with malty, chocolate-y nuances and an overarching layer of multifaceted spice. I'd last had this brew at Del Rey Kitchen a decade ago, and I have to say that it's held up superbly.


Shiitake (Shiitake mushroom) [$3.50] | 椎茸
The shiitake was another clear standout. I loved its perfectly meaty, juicy, gratifying texture, while taste-wise, I found bountiful amounts of salt, smoke, and umami, all in utter harmony. I believe this to be the best mushroom I've had in a kushiyaki setting.


Bonbochi (Chicken tail) [$5.00] | ボンボチ
Given my penchant for bonjiri, this was another must-order for me. It had that delectable mix of fat and lean I wanted, joined by a relatively restrained sear, and overall, was a less in-your-face preparation than I usually find.


Shishito (Shishito pepper) [$3.50] | ししとう
The shishitos also delivered due to their spot-on mix of bright, vegetal notes, heat, and smoke, and I liked the peppers' blistered exteriors, too.


Nankotsu (Chicken cartilage) [$5.00] | 軟骨
Another winner was the yagen nankotsu, taken from the breast (as opposed to the knee, which would be hiza nankotsu). The cartilage showed off its signature supple-yet-crunchy bite, and had a nice smokiness to pair with the bits of chicken meat left on.


Tsukune (Chicken meatball) [$5.00] | つくね
I'm a sucker for meatballs, and Nishi's certainly delivered. Juicy and slightly springy to the bite, the balls demonstrated a fine amalgam of sweet, savory, and smoky elements, all perked up by a palpable gingery sting.



Sasami Wasabi (Chicken tender w/ wasabi) [$4.50] | ささみワサビ
Thankfully, the chicken breast wasn't on the dry side as it often tends to be. The fine-grained meat meshed swimmingly with its light touch of sear, and really opened up with the burn and savor of that kizami wasabi.


Negima (Chicken thigh w/ green Onion) [$4.50] | ねぎま
The thigh is always a crowd pleaser, and that was certainly the case here, with the tender, juicy chicken playing well with the astringency of both the sear and the scallion.


Tebasaki (Chicken Wings) [$5.00] | 手羽先
The wing was also easy to enjoy thanks to its balanced flavor profile and classic chicken-y goodness, imbued with a moderate amount of smoke.


Shisomaki (Shiso roll w/ pork) [$7.00] | しそ巻き
At this point, I inquired about any off-menu items, and was offered this skewer as well as the one immediately below. This was definitely a fun one, with the mintiness of the perilla serving as a fitting foil to the delectably juicy thin-cut pork.


Kamo (Duck) [$8.00] | 鴨
Compared to chicken, the duck showcased noticeably more depth and earthiness, along with some wondrously fatty, flavorful skin, so the green onion was key for balance. Given how tasty this was, it made me wonder: why don't we use more parts of the duck for kushiyaki purposes?


Ginnan (Ginkgo nuts) [$6.00] | ぎんなん
I also asked about ordering some of the omakase-only skewers that I saw around the dining room, and Nishi-san graciously obliged. First up were these ginkgo nuts, which had that satisfying texture I was seeking, along with a bevy of nutty, sweet, and decidedly bitter flavors, accented by a hint of smoke on the back end.


Kawa (Chicken skin) [$6.00] | かわ
Another omakase-only offering was the torikawa, an oh-so fatty cut with a marked sweetness that married effortlessly with its healthy amount of charring.


Nasu (Eggplant) [$7.00] | 茄子
I'm typically not a huge fan of eggplant, but really enjoyed this presentation. The key was how the aubergine's juicy, spongy-but-firm consistency was maintained, in concert with how its gentle bittersweetness was amped up by smoke from the grill, umami from the katsuobushi, and piquancy from the grated ginger.


Atsuage (Fried Tofu) [$4.00] | 厚揚げ
The atsu-age actually came recommended by Yume, and did not disappoint. I certainly appreciated the tofu's crisp, sweet, well-charred exterior, and how that all combined with its mild, supple insides.


With the beer above dispensed with, I moved on to a glass of the Sapporo Premium [$8], served on draft. I have to say that this was noticeably better than your usual Sapporo, with a richer taste and a more luscious mouthfeel. I'm not sure if this was because it came from a specialized, dedicated dispenser, or if it was due to the extra care that my server used when pouring.


Rare Liver (Chicken liver) [$4.50] | レア レバー
As the evening was winding down, I asked Yume if there were any parts available coked rare, and she mentioned liver and breast, so naturally I ordered both. The first time I had rare reba was at Toriki in Tokyo, and ever since them, I've felt that it's a superior way of serving the offal. That notion was certainly bolstered tonight. Instead of that "grainy" texture you sometimes find with the organ, the example here was soft, slick, smooth, with a more delicate gaminess to boot. I believe that this was the first time I've ever had liver served rare like this in the Los Angeles area.



Rare Sasami Wasabi (Chicken tender w/ wasabi) [$4.50] | レア ささみワサビ
The rare chicken breast was also a treat. The version above was already commendable, but this was even better thanks to its almost "velvety" consistency, while in terms of taste, it was just as delicious as before.


Ground Chicken Rice Bowl [$12.00]
With the skewer portion of the meal done with, we'll now move into the finishers, starting with your classic soboro don. The chicken was teeming with both sweetness and soy, so the grassy kick of the nori was key, while moderating it all was a base of just-sticky-enough rice. Super homey and comforting.


Pork and Vegetables Miso Soup [$6.00]
Here we have what must be the heftiest misoshiru I've ever had. The heartiness of the pork made a whole bunch of sense with the various veggies, especially the zestiness of green onion, and I liked the textural contribution from the konjac, too. A perfectly snug sort of closer.


Ice Cream (Pineapple) [$9.00]
Dessert duties were handled by a rather intensely flavored pineapple ice cream, one that almost went in a candied direction. I was a big fan of the serving vessel utilized, too.

I had high hopes coming into Yakitori Nishi, and I'm delighted to report that I was not let down. Nishi-san's cooking style and vision for yakitori definitely jibed with me, and there was a certain je ne sais quoi to his grilling that held a lot of appeal. In fact, when you factor in the congenial service and generally cozy feel of the place, I'd go as far as to say that this is the top yakitori experience I've had in the South Bay, and likely LA in general. For all you skewer fans out there, this is absolutely a must-try spot.