Sumibiyakitori Kidori (Arcadia, CA)
Sumibi Yakitori Kidori
1108 S Baldwin Ave, Arcadia, CA 91007
626-702-0011
www.instagram.com/sumibiyakitori_kidori/
Wed 02/12/2025, 07:45p-10:00p
Given my penchant for yakitori, a recent opening that caught my eye was that of Sumibiyakitori Kidori (炭火焼鳥㐂どり), which soft-opened in November last year. The place is actually the latest restaurant from Yamato Miura's Bun Geiz (バンゲイズ) group, the company responsible for Benten Ramen (RIP), DTLA Ramen, Tonchinkan, Sushi Kisen, Sushi Yamamoto, Kaiseki Motoishi (RIP?), and Sushidokoro Miyama. For Kidori, he's teamed up with Tokyo's popular Sumibiyakitori Zocalo (炭火焼鳥そかろ), which is helmed by Chef Tomoyuki Homma.
About the Chef: Homma Tomoyuki (本間智幸) was born in Bunkyō-ku, Tokyo and grew up in the ward's Otowa neighborhood. While bartending in his early 20s, he was introduced by a customer to a yakitori restaurant called Nishiazabu Tori＋Salon (西麻布Tori＋Salon), and was so impressed that he decided to start training there, under Chef Kazuo Nakayama (中山一夫). Following, he relocated to New York and cooked at the longstanding Yakitori Totto, then, interestingly, moved to Oaxaca, though he didn't work in yakitori during this period. Homma later returned to Japan and helped open restaurants in both Tokyo and Yokohama before starting Sumibi Yakitori Zocalo on October 15th, 2013.
Named after the Spanish word for "town square" (zócalo, a nod to his time in Mexico), the place proved to be quite popular, and even garnered Michelin Bib Gourmand status in 2018 and 2019. Apparently, he decided to launch his first US venture here in Arcadia because of his relationship with Miura, who actually comes from the same hometown. Homma temporarily shuttered his original restaurant last September in order to work on the debut, and there was even a pre-opening pop-up held at Tonchinkan in October.
The restaurant consists of just a 13-seater bar surrounding the kitchen, and pictured above is my view from the right-most seat. For those of you who've been in the area for a while, you might recall that this Baldwin Plaza storefront was previously home to the likes of CiTea, Nobibi, and Cricket Wireless.
As for Kidori's menu, it's centered on an $80 omakase featuring 10 skewers and sundry other dishes, with à la carte supplements also available. Drink-wise, you get a smattering of beer and shochu, a small wine list, and an array of sakes that does include some "culty" selections; from what I've read, both Homma and his wife Chihiro (ちひろ) are well-versed in the area of booze. Meanwhile, corkage is $50 a pop, or $125 for bigger bottles. Click for larger versions.
1: appetizer
Tonight's menu began with a trio of zensai, which we were instructed to eat from left to right:
2: salad
Bitter, pungent greens were well-matched by the salty kick of Parmesan.
3: liver pâté
A fine-grained pâté displayed a noticeable sweetness up front before transitioning to the trademark earthiness of the liver. The toast made quite a bit of sense here as a medium for consumption.
4: sasami -tender-
Chicken breast arrived the slightest bit rare (which I appreciated), and was some of the most tender I've tasted, though a touch drier than I'd prefer in spots. The bird featured light touches of both salt and sear, while the wasabi contributed just enough prickly heat to the mix.
To go along with dinner, I BYOB'd a 2004 Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé. The sparkler smelled of bright, sweet, juicy strawberries laced with a smidge of watermelon. On the palate, the bubbly was fresh and vibrant, with plenty more of that red fruit commingled with a mineral backbone and a touch of umeboshi-esque tartness. Overall, this was delish, though surprisingly young-tasting, so I'd be curious to try an older bottle to get a better sense of how the wine's tertiary character develops.
5: japanese ginnan -ginkgo nuts-
Ginkgo nuts were somewhat larger than usual, but I found them spot-on with regard to their oh-so satisfying consistency as well as their almost corn-y bittersweetness. Lovely.
6: negima
Thigh boasted an unusually meaty, substantial texture, along with a relatively subdued sear, and paired like clockwork with that wonderfully sweet-n-smoky spring onion. My quibble was that the chicken wasn't as juicy as I wanted at times.
7: shiitake mushrooms
Lightly-charred mushrooms showcased a cozy, familiar savoriness that actually reminded me of the shiitakes of my childhood.
8: momo -thigh-
This second iteration of thigh was a definite crowd pleaser thanks to its wonderfully salty, smoky skin and flawless mouthfeel.
9: zucchini
Half-pucks of zucchini arrived juicy and satisfying, the squash's subtle sweetness marrying beautifully with richly-flavored shavings of Mimolette. The cheese was certainly an unconventional pairing, one demonstrating that Tomo-san isn't afraid to think outside the box.
10: sunagimo -gizzard-
Next up was a particularly offal-y version of gizzard, perked up by pinpricks of salt and offering that classically crunchy-yet-yielding consistency.
11: uzura -smoked quail eggs-
The quail eggs were a standout due to their fantastic application of smoke and their soy-fueled savoriness, both of which linked up swimmingly with the eggs' creamy insides.
12: shishito
Shishitos were on point, marrying the peppers' vegetal heat and char against that sweet-n-spicy miso on the side.
13: tsukune w/ ontama
This was the last skewer on the prix fixe menu, and was another favorite of mine. I loved the slightly sweet, slightly smokey nature of the chicken, and how that functioned with the zippy sweetness of green onion, while that runny onsen tamago served as a very fitting condiment. Interestingly, the overall effect of the meatball actually reminded me of the Taiwanese meat patties that my mother used to make when I was growing up.
aburi mentai -seared cod roe- [$12.00]
At this point, we moved into some supplemental dishes, starting with the mentaiko, a salty, smoky example with a growing heat that really crept up on me.
hatsu -hearts- [$5.00]
Chicken heart was superb texturally, while taste-wise, it offered up a restrained sweetness alongside a palpable mineral element.
nagaimo -mountain yam- [$4.20]
Chinese yam was another favorite, and probably the best preparation of the ingredient I've had. I was a huge fan of its roasty, charred flavors, and even more of a fan of its crunchy-yet-mucilaginous mouthfeel, all while the nori worked as the perfect complement.
liver [$5.00]
The liver also displayed a rarer-than-usual consistency that I much appreciated, along with an elegant gaminess and traces of bittersweetness and minerality.
atsuage -deep fried tofu- [$5.00]
The atsu-age made another appearance, and was even better than above. Yum.
kawa -skin- [$5.00]
Chicken skin came out sweeter than usual, with less charring and a softer consistency to boot.
tomato [$4.20]
Tomatoes were served hot and juicy, with a marked tanginess and a subdued smoke.
teba -wing- [$6.00]
The evening's final skewer was another highlight. Think ultra succulent meat with an in-your-face application of salt, savor, and smoke. You can't go wrong with this.
14a: zosui (porridge)
Closing things out was a rice soup, a snug, comforting preparation that really did a wonderful job showing off the sting of that negi. Curiously, we found this somewhat reminiscent of egg drop soup.
14b: oyakodon
Arguably even cozier was this mash-up of super savory, soy-saturated shards of chicken and lush, enveloping egg, all set over a moderating base of rice.
15: pudding
A soft, creamy pudding bolstered by a sugary, caramel-y layer on the bottom made for a sweet ending.
Sumibiyakitori Kidori represents another worthwhile addition to the pantheon of top-end yakitori restaurants in Los Angeles. What stood out to me was how Chef Homma's cooking was just a bit unlike the norm, with some unexpected flourishes here and there and often a somewhat lighter touch when it comes to smoke. Along with the omakase-focused, counter seating-only nature of this place, it made for a different sort of yakitori experience that I'm very happy to have available. This is another gotta-try spot for all you yakitori aficionados out there.
Following dinner, we enjoyed some dessert beer in the form of the 2024 Horus Super Gloop, a blend of imperial stouts aged in Baker's and Booker's bourbon barrels, with the addition of caramel, chocolate, coconut, and peanut brittle. Not surprisingly, the nose here was massive, just brimming with sugary coconut, chocolate, and nutmeat. Thick and viscous on the palate, the beer showed off boatloads of what seemed like hazelnut chocolate, with lighter nuances of caramel and coconut along with a slightly hot underpinning. A proper pastry stout to be sure.
1108 S Baldwin Ave, Arcadia, CA 91007
626-702-0011
www.instagram.com/sumibiyakitori_kidori/
Wed 02/12/2025, 07:45p-10:00p
Given my penchant for yakitori, a recent opening that caught my eye was that of Sumibiyakitori Kidori (炭火焼鳥㐂どり), which soft-opened in November last year. The place is actually the latest restaurant from Yamato Miura's Bun Geiz (バンゲイズ) group, the company responsible for Benten Ramen (RIP), DTLA Ramen, Tonchinkan, Sushi Kisen, Sushi Yamamoto, Kaiseki Motoishi (RIP?), and Sushidokoro Miyama. For Kidori, he's teamed up with Tokyo's popular Sumibiyakitori Zocalo (炭火焼鳥そかろ), which is helmed by Chef Tomoyuki Homma.
About the Chef: Homma Tomoyuki (本間智幸) was born in Bunkyō-ku, Tokyo and grew up in the ward's Otowa neighborhood. While bartending in his early 20s, he was introduced by a customer to a yakitori restaurant called Nishiazabu Tori＋Salon (西麻布Tori＋Salon), and was so impressed that he decided to start training there, under Chef Kazuo Nakayama (中山一夫). Following, he relocated to New York and cooked at the longstanding Yakitori Totto, then, interestingly, moved to Oaxaca, though he didn't work in yakitori during this period. Homma later returned to Japan and helped open restaurants in both Tokyo and Yokohama before starting Sumibi Yakitori Zocalo on October 15th, 2013.
Named after the Spanish word for "town square" (zócalo, a nod to his time in Mexico), the place proved to be quite popular, and even garnered Michelin Bib Gourmand status in 2018 and 2019. Apparently, he decided to launch his first US venture here in Arcadia because of his relationship with Miura, who actually comes from the same hometown. Homma temporarily shuttered his original restaurant last September in order to work on the debut, and there was even a pre-opening pop-up held at Tonchinkan in October.
The restaurant consists of just a 13-seater bar surrounding the kitchen, and pictured above is my view from the right-most seat. For those of you who've been in the area for a while, you might recall that this Baldwin Plaza storefront was previously home to the likes of CiTea, Nobibi, and Cricket Wireless.
As for Kidori's menu, it's centered on an $80 omakase featuring 10 skewers and sundry other dishes, with à la carte supplements also available. Drink-wise, you get a smattering of beer and shochu, a small wine list, and an array of sakes that does include some "culty" selections; from what I've read, both Homma and his wife Chihiro (ちひろ) are well-versed in the area of booze. Meanwhile, corkage is $50 a pop, or $125 for bigger bottles. Click for larger versions.
1: appetizer
Tonight's menu began with a trio of zensai, which we were instructed to eat from left to right:
- Up first was the nikomi, consisting of chicken liver simmered in miso stock alongside a super saturated, ultra savory chunk of daikon, as well as carrot and snap pea.
- A block of atsuage was mouthwatering, and had its headiness evened out by bitter daikon sprouts and zesty myoga.
- Cucumber cured in dashi stock showed off some deep, savory flavors along with the expected tartness, all while katsuobushi shavings amped up the umami factor even more.
2: salad
Bitter, pungent greens were well-matched by the salty kick of Parmesan.
3: liver pâté
A fine-grained pâté displayed a noticeable sweetness up front before transitioning to the trademark earthiness of the liver. The toast made quite a bit of sense here as a medium for consumption.
4: sasami -tender-
Chicken breast arrived the slightest bit rare (which I appreciated), and was some of the most tender I've tasted, though a touch drier than I'd prefer in spots. The bird featured light touches of both salt and sear, while the wasabi contributed just enough prickly heat to the mix.
To go along with dinner, I BYOB'd a 2004 Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé. The sparkler smelled of bright, sweet, juicy strawberries laced with a smidge of watermelon. On the palate, the bubbly was fresh and vibrant, with plenty more of that red fruit commingled with a mineral backbone and a touch of umeboshi-esque tartness. Overall, this was delish, though surprisingly young-tasting, so I'd be curious to try an older bottle to get a better sense of how the wine's tertiary character develops.
5: japanese ginnan -ginkgo nuts-
Ginkgo nuts were somewhat larger than usual, but I found them spot-on with regard to their oh-so satisfying consistency as well as their almost corn-y bittersweetness. Lovely.
6: negima
Thigh boasted an unusually meaty, substantial texture, along with a relatively subdued sear, and paired like clockwork with that wonderfully sweet-n-smoky spring onion. My quibble was that the chicken wasn't as juicy as I wanted at times.
7: shiitake mushrooms
Lightly-charred mushrooms showcased a cozy, familiar savoriness that actually reminded me of the shiitakes of my childhood.
8: momo -thigh-
This second iteration of thigh was a definite crowd pleaser thanks to its wonderfully salty, smoky skin and flawless mouthfeel.
9: zucchini
Half-pucks of zucchini arrived juicy and satisfying, the squash's subtle sweetness marrying beautifully with richly-flavored shavings of Mimolette. The cheese was certainly an unconventional pairing, one demonstrating that Tomo-san isn't afraid to think outside the box.
10: sunagimo -gizzard-
Next up was a particularly offal-y version of gizzard, perked up by pinpricks of salt and offering that classically crunchy-yet-yielding consistency.
11: uzura -smoked quail eggs-
The quail eggs were a standout due to their fantastic application of smoke and their soy-fueled savoriness, both of which linked up swimmingly with the eggs' creamy insides.
12: shishito
Shishitos were on point, marrying the peppers' vegetal heat and char against that sweet-n-spicy miso on the side.
13: tsukune w/ ontama
This was the last skewer on the prix fixe menu, and was another favorite of mine. I loved the slightly sweet, slightly smokey nature of the chicken, and how that functioned with the zippy sweetness of green onion, while that runny onsen tamago served as a very fitting condiment. Interestingly, the overall effect of the meatball actually reminded me of the Taiwanese meat patties that my mother used to make when I was growing up.
aburi mentai -seared cod roe- [$12.00]
At this point, we moved into some supplemental dishes, starting with the mentaiko, a salty, smoky example with a growing heat that really crept up on me.
hatsu -hearts- [$5.00]
Chicken heart was superb texturally, while taste-wise, it offered up a restrained sweetness alongside a palpable mineral element.
nagaimo -mountain yam- [$4.20]
Chinese yam was another favorite, and probably the best preparation of the ingredient I've had. I was a huge fan of its roasty, charred flavors, and even more of a fan of its crunchy-yet-mucilaginous mouthfeel, all while the nori worked as the perfect complement.
liver [$5.00]
The liver also displayed a rarer-than-usual consistency that I much appreciated, along with an elegant gaminess and traces of bittersweetness and minerality.
atsuage -deep fried tofu- [$5.00]
The atsu-age made another appearance, and was even better than above. Yum.
kawa -skin- [$5.00]
Chicken skin came out sweeter than usual, with less charring and a softer consistency to boot.
tomato [$4.20]
Tomatoes were served hot and juicy, with a marked tanginess and a subdued smoke.
teba -wing- [$6.00]
The evening's final skewer was another highlight. Think ultra succulent meat with an in-your-face application of salt, savor, and smoke. You can't go wrong with this.
14a: zosui (porridge)
Closing things out was a rice soup, a snug, comforting preparation that really did a wonderful job showing off the sting of that negi. Curiously, we found this somewhat reminiscent of egg drop soup.
14b: oyakodon
Arguably even cozier was this mash-up of super savory, soy-saturated shards of chicken and lush, enveloping egg, all set over a moderating base of rice.
15: pudding
A soft, creamy pudding bolstered by a sugary, caramel-y layer on the bottom made for a sweet ending.
Sumibiyakitori Kidori represents another worthwhile addition to the pantheon of top-end yakitori restaurants in Los Angeles. What stood out to me was how Chef Homma's cooking was just a bit unlike the norm, with some unexpected flourishes here and there and often a somewhat lighter touch when it comes to smoke. Along with the omakase-focused, counter seating-only nature of this place, it made for a different sort of yakitori experience that I'm very happy to have available. This is another gotta-try spot for all you yakitori aficionados out there.
Following dinner, we enjoyed some dessert beer in the form of the 2024 Horus Super Gloop, a blend of imperial stouts aged in Baker's and Booker's bourbon barrels, with the addition of caramel, chocolate, coconut, and peanut brittle. Not surprisingly, the nose here was massive, just brimming with sugary coconut, chocolate, and nutmeat. Thick and viscous on the palate, the beer showed off boatloads of what seemed like hazelnut chocolate, with lighter nuances of caramel and coconut along with a slightly hot underpinning. A proper pastry stout to be sure.
posted by kevinEats at
7:45 PM
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