Damian (Los Angeles, CA) [2]
Damian Restaurant
2132 E 7th Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213-270-0178
www.damiandtla.com
Sun 03/02/2025, 06:15p-08:45p
One of LA's biggest pandemic-era openings was undoubtedly that of Damian, which dropped with considerable fanfare in October 2020. The Arts District restaurant is the creation of Enrique Olvera's Casamata group, and quickly made a name for itself as a go-to spot for modern Mexican dining in the Southland. Damian debuted with Chef Chuy Cervantes (a.k.a. Jesús Cervantes) at the helm, and he's still steering the ship to this day. Given that it'd been over four years since I last posted about this place (even though I'd eaten here numerous times since then), I decided it might be time to check in and file another dining report.
Inside, things really haven't changed much at all since the restaurant opened. They really don't need to though, since the dining room is a rather pleasant place to be.
Here we see Damian's refreshingly compact menu, along with the cocktail list. Click for larger versions.
Salmon Tostada [$26.00] | Sungold Tomato, Chicatana Ants
Our meal got off to a strong start thanks to this tostada, which set the smoky, savory smack of an ant-boosted salsa macha against the creeping brine of salmon. Also key was a restrained undercurrent of heat, as well as how those juicy tomatoes lightened things up.
Xitlali Milk Punch [$21.00] | Condesa Prickly Pear Gin, Capurro Pisco, Xtabentun Mayan Liqueur, Aperitivo Rosato, Pink Guava, Citrus, Leche
I made my way through four cocktails this evening, and given my penchant for milk punches in general, I had to start with this. Unfortunately, it sort of missed the mark, arriving thin and muted, with only a very subdued fruity, floral, citric character and nary any trace of booze. One of my dining companions likened the drink to "diluted lemonade," and that was a pretty apt descriptor.
Ceviche [$28.00] | Ginger Turnip Relish, Green Tomato
Strangely, we weren't told what kind of fish was used in the ceviche, but whatever it was, it certainly fit the bill, its satisfying mouthfeel and clean taste meshing easily with the dish's bevy of bright, tangy, herby components. Can't go too wrong with this.
Wonderfully shattery blue corn tostadas were accompanied by a delectably nutty, punchy salsa macha and a zippy salsa cruda that actually reminded us of an Indian-style mint chutney.
Carrot Aguachile [$34.00] | Blue Shrimp, Scallop, Sal de Gusano
I'm typically quite a fan of aguachile, though tonight's example didn't quite meet expectations. The seafood was on point both texturally and with its gentle salinity, but the dish seemed to go in an overly fruity direction, and was lacking oomph. I wanted more heat, more acid, more salt.
Imaginary Friend [$21.00] | Agua del Sol Espadin, Saler's Gentian Aperitif, Dolin Blanc Vermouth, Carpano Bianco Vermouth
My second cocktail was much more effective, its plethora of smoky, grassy, mezcal-fueled notes transitioning seamlessly to an amalgam of classically bittersweet nuances.
Tlayuda [$28.00] | Winter Squash, Zucchini, Ossau Iraty Cheese
The clayuda demonstrated a very palpable sweetness from the corn up front, which led to pinpricks of brine and the weightiness of beans and cheese. Meanwhile, all those herbs and veggies further perked up the dish, and I liked the slight chew of the tortilla base, too.
Tamal de Ricotta [$22.00] | Corn Cream, Queso Fresco
A brazenly monochromatic tamal was supple to the bite, its corn-powered sweetness married with a healthy amount of lush, creamy cheese. It was a tasty combo, but I was seeking something more here to serve as a counterpoint.
Another complimentary serving of tostadas and salsas was just as good as above.
Luna Lunera [$22.00] | Manojo Espadin, Sotomayor Sotol Blend, Cacao Nib Infused Campari, Carpano Antica Vermouth, Tonka Bean
This next cocktail was the heftiest of the lot. Thick on the palate, the drink's unabashedly smoky, bittersweet qualities were on proud display, joined by touches of nuts, chocolate, and warm spice.
Calamar en Su Tinta [$24.00] | Chorizo
Squid had that "snappy" texture I like, along with a noticeable saline quality that linked up beautifully with the stronger tastes of a fish-based chorizo and an ink-based mayo. I appreciated the lighter notes contributed by the herbs and onions, too.
Pollito al Pastor [$64.00] | Pineapple Butter, Scallion Oil
For our main, we went with the chicken, which showed off some lovely spicing and a gratifyingly crisp, smoky skin, though the bird was a touch dry in spots. Even so, when wrapped in those floppy blue corn tortillas with some of that wonderfully zesty scallion oil and a touch of pineapple, the pollo did indeed make for some tasty bites. Pro tip: don't be afraid to make use of the salsas that came with the tostadas above, either.
And now we come to Damian's dessert menu and selection of after-dinner drinks. Click for a larger version.
Tarta de Chocolate [$19.00] | Pixtle, Chocolate, Mascarpone
Our first dessert was a good-looking tart comprising some unexpectedly soft, somewhat citrusy chocolate countered by creamy mascarpone. I would've liked a bit more texture here, as well as a pinch of salt.
El Bulevar [$24.00] | Toki Whisky, El Tesoro Anejo, Amaro Montenegro, Mexican Red Bitter, Nance
The evening's final cocktail was a woodsy, prickly, bittersweet concoction with this beguiling sort of astringency that I reveled in.
Soft Serve [$17.00] | Corn, Caramel, Rescoldo
The soft serve was certainly a winner thanks to how well the sweetness of corn was conveyed in the ice cream. At the same time, the caramel corn imparted both crunch and a sugary, smoky accent that definitely worked for contrast.
Hibiscus Meringue [$19.00] | Strawberry
Last up was Damian's signature dessert, the creation of the late Joshua Ulmer. It was certainly the most cerebral of the bunch, with the airy, eggy meringues playing marvelously with the dish's tart, candied, floral, and Chantilly elements. Very neat.
Despite a few hiccups here and there, I was generally pleased with tonight's dinner. Nobody else is doing Cal-inflected contemporary Mexican cuisine quite like this in LA, and the food's got a certain grace, a certain je ne sais quoi to it that really appeals to me. Damian has become a staple of the Downtown dining scene for good reason, and I'm hoping that it can stick around for many more years to come.
2132 E 7th Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213-270-0178
www.damiandtla.com
Sun 03/02/2025, 06:15p-08:45p
One of LA's biggest pandemic-era openings was undoubtedly that of Damian, which dropped with considerable fanfare in October 2020. The Arts District restaurant is the creation of Enrique Olvera's Casamata group, and quickly made a name for itself as a go-to spot for modern Mexican dining in the Southland. Damian debuted with Chef Chuy Cervantes (a.k.a. Jesús Cervantes) at the helm, and he's still steering the ship to this day. Given that it'd been over four years since I last posted about this place (even though I'd eaten here numerous times since then), I decided it might be time to check in and file another dining report.
Inside, things really haven't changed much at all since the restaurant opened. They really don't need to though, since the dining room is a rather pleasant place to be.
Here we see Damian's refreshingly compact menu, along with the cocktail list. Click for larger versions.
Salmon Tostada [$26.00] | Sungold Tomato, Chicatana Ants
Our meal got off to a strong start thanks to this tostada, which set the smoky, savory smack of an ant-boosted salsa macha against the creeping brine of salmon. Also key was a restrained undercurrent of heat, as well as how those juicy tomatoes lightened things up.
Xitlali Milk Punch [$21.00] | Condesa Prickly Pear Gin, Capurro Pisco, Xtabentun Mayan Liqueur, Aperitivo Rosato, Pink Guava, Citrus, Leche
I made my way through four cocktails this evening, and given my penchant for milk punches in general, I had to start with this. Unfortunately, it sort of missed the mark, arriving thin and muted, with only a very subdued fruity, floral, citric character and nary any trace of booze. One of my dining companions likened the drink to "diluted lemonade," and that was a pretty apt descriptor.
Ceviche [$28.00] | Ginger Turnip Relish, Green Tomato
Strangely, we weren't told what kind of fish was used in the ceviche, but whatever it was, it certainly fit the bill, its satisfying mouthfeel and clean taste meshing easily with the dish's bevy of bright, tangy, herby components. Can't go too wrong with this.
Wonderfully shattery blue corn tostadas were accompanied by a delectably nutty, punchy salsa macha and a zippy salsa cruda that actually reminded us of an Indian-style mint chutney.
Carrot Aguachile [$34.00] | Blue Shrimp, Scallop, Sal de Gusano
I'm typically quite a fan of aguachile, though tonight's example didn't quite meet expectations. The seafood was on point both texturally and with its gentle salinity, but the dish seemed to go in an overly fruity direction, and was lacking oomph. I wanted more heat, more acid, more salt.
Imaginary Friend [$21.00] | Agua del Sol Espadin, Saler's Gentian Aperitif, Dolin Blanc Vermouth, Carpano Bianco Vermouth
My second cocktail was much more effective, its plethora of smoky, grassy, mezcal-fueled notes transitioning seamlessly to an amalgam of classically bittersweet nuances.
Tlayuda [$28.00] | Winter Squash, Zucchini, Ossau Iraty Cheese
The clayuda demonstrated a very palpable sweetness from the corn up front, which led to pinpricks of brine and the weightiness of beans and cheese. Meanwhile, all those herbs and veggies further perked up the dish, and I liked the slight chew of the tortilla base, too.
Tamal de Ricotta [$22.00] | Corn Cream, Queso Fresco
A brazenly monochromatic tamal was supple to the bite, its corn-powered sweetness married with a healthy amount of lush, creamy cheese. It was a tasty combo, but I was seeking something more here to serve as a counterpoint.
Another complimentary serving of tostadas and salsas was just as good as above.
Luna Lunera [$22.00] | Manojo Espadin, Sotomayor Sotol Blend, Cacao Nib Infused Campari, Carpano Antica Vermouth, Tonka Bean
This next cocktail was the heftiest of the lot. Thick on the palate, the drink's unabashedly smoky, bittersweet qualities were on proud display, joined by touches of nuts, chocolate, and warm spice.
Calamar en Su Tinta [$24.00] | Chorizo
Squid had that "snappy" texture I like, along with a noticeable saline quality that linked up beautifully with the stronger tastes of a fish-based chorizo and an ink-based mayo. I appreciated the lighter notes contributed by the herbs and onions, too.
Pollito al Pastor [$64.00] | Pineapple Butter, Scallion Oil
For our main, we went with the chicken, which showed off some lovely spicing and a gratifyingly crisp, smoky skin, though the bird was a touch dry in spots. Even so, when wrapped in those floppy blue corn tortillas with some of that wonderfully zesty scallion oil and a touch of pineapple, the pollo did indeed make for some tasty bites. Pro tip: don't be afraid to make use of the salsas that came with the tostadas above, either.
And now we come to Damian's dessert menu and selection of after-dinner drinks. Click for a larger version.
Tarta de Chocolate [$19.00] | Pixtle, Chocolate, Mascarpone
Our first dessert was a good-looking tart comprising some unexpectedly soft, somewhat citrusy chocolate countered by creamy mascarpone. I would've liked a bit more texture here, as well as a pinch of salt.
El Bulevar [$24.00] | Toki Whisky, El Tesoro Anejo, Amaro Montenegro, Mexican Red Bitter, Nance
The evening's final cocktail was a woodsy, prickly, bittersweet concoction with this beguiling sort of astringency that I reveled in.
Soft Serve [$17.00] | Corn, Caramel, Rescoldo
The soft serve was certainly a winner thanks to how well the sweetness of corn was conveyed in the ice cream. At the same time, the caramel corn imparted both crunch and a sugary, smoky accent that definitely worked for contrast.
Hibiscus Meringue [$19.00] | Strawberry
Last up was Damian's signature dessert, the creation of the late Joshua Ulmer. It was certainly the most cerebral of the bunch, with the airy, eggy meringues playing marvelously with the dish's tart, candied, floral, and Chantilly elements. Very neat.
Despite a few hiccups here and there, I was generally pleased with tonight's dinner. Nobody else is doing Cal-inflected contemporary Mexican cuisine quite like this in LA, and the food's got a certain grace, a certain je ne sais quoi to it that really appeals to me. Damian has become a staple of the Downtown dining scene for good reason, and I'm hoping that it can stick around for many more years to come.
posted by kevinEats at
6:15 PM
2 Comments:
At $64 for a half chicken, that must certainly be the most expensive chicken in the city. At these prices I would expect everything in front of me to be absolutely perfect. I had a similar experience at Criollo in Oaxaca; about twice the price, but half as good as any other great restaurants in Oaxaca city.
Shoot, now that you mention it, I do wonder if this actually is the most expensive chicken in the city, at the equivalent of $128 for the whole bird. That being said, I do believe I paid more back in 2013 for a whole roast chicken at Melisse. Sadly, I never blogged about that meal.
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