Majordomo (Los Angeles, CA) [4]

Majordōmo Restaurant
1725 Naud St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
323-545-4880
www.majordomo.la
Thu 03/06/2025, 07:45p-10:10p





Since opening in January 2018, David Chang's Majordomo has become a Chinatown dining staple of mine, and probably the spot in the area that I recommend the most often. I last reported on the place back in December 2023, which isn't too long ago, but a recent visit from an out-of-towner brought me back for some more of the restaurant's trademark pan-Asian-meets-LA cooking.


Inside, I don't think things have changed much at all since the place opened, and that's just fine with me.


Here we see Majordomo's menu, which I believe is still the creation of Chef Jude Parra-Sickels. Also pictured are the restaurant's wines by the glass list, cocktail selection, and array of sakes, beers, and other beverages. Click for larger versions.


Sesame Manhattan [$18.00] | toasted sesame rye, sweet vermouth, moka
Given my proclivity for both sesame and Manhattans, it certainly made sense for me to start here. I have to say that this was a pretty effective take on the classic cocktail, with boatloads of nuttiness from the sesame that melded surprisingly seamlessly with the drink's expectedly boozy, bittersweet components.


Tuna Carpaccio [$20.00] | avocado, yuzu, sesame
In our first dish, creamy slices of avocado did a nice job offsetting the considerably umami from the tuna, all while tangy hits of yuzu helped tie the dish together. I much enjoyed the lingering toastiness from that sesame as well.


Smoked Martini [$17.00] | nikka vodka, clairin, manzanilla sherry, smoked olives
Next to imbibe was another smart twist on a classic cocktail. The martini came out super dirty, almost filthy (how I like it), the drink's bountiful brine complemented by touches of nuttiness from the sherry.


Little Gem Salad [$29.00] | anchovy, miso, smoked trout roe
I'm usually not much of a salad guy, but this was a surprise standout thanks to how well the dish's saline, savory, smoky notes played with the lighter, brighter, creamier elements present. Loved those crunchy bits on top, too.


Fried Cauliflower [$18.00] | pineapple vinaigrette, cilantro, red onion
The cauliflower demonstrated some surprisingly deep, gratifying flavors that worked hand-in-hand with the dish's zippy, acidic ingredients. I just would've liked more crunch on the florets.


Ichigo-Rita [$16.00] | reposado tequila, strawberry sake, plum soju, rhubarb
Next up were some decidedly easier-going cocktails. This margarita variation deftly incorporated the strawberry, which was always apparent, but never domineering, and made a lot of sense combined with both rhubarb and plum.



Bing – Ricotta, Jam, Chili Crunch [$12.00]
Majordomo's certainly known for its bǐng, and the flatbread certainly delivered tonight, largely due to its delightfully feathery consistency. The bread served as the perfect vessel with which to enjoy the ricotta, whose creaminess did a wonderful job tempering both that sugary jam and the prickly heat of chili crisp.


Kumamoto Castle [$21.00] | johnnie walker green label, kikori, cocchi americano, apricot, honey
The night's lone long cocktail displayed a healthy dosing of stone fruit, set against a bevy of bittersweet, boozy notes, all in a rather quaffable, honey-backed package.


Smoked Pork Belly [$21.00] | red lentil, mushroom, szechuan
Pork belly came out melt-in-my-mouth tender, with just the right amount of fattiness, while its smoke paired like clockwork with the meat's nearly char siu-like spicing, which wasn't in my face, but was always there to keep things interesting.


Crispy Potatoes [$19.00] | chili, garlic, lemon mayo
Potatoes were as crispy as advertised on the outside, while their interiors were hearty and satisfying, yet almost "fluffy" in a way. The taters were treated with some sour, savory spicing, and paired swimmingly with that tangy mayonnaise on the side.


Black Forest [$22.00] | mezcal, shiitake sotol, chartreuse elixir vegetal, mushroom tincture
Given its name, my next cocktail certainly looked the part, and tasted it, too. I got a heavy dosing of smoke and boozy heat, commixed with an undercurrent of woodsy mushrooms, with a top layer of vegetal, astringent nuances from the Élixir.


Clam Lo Mein [$32.00] | garlic, thai chili, lemon
The signature salinity of clam was forcefully conveyed in this untraditional take on lāo miàn, also marrying well with the dish's garlicky notes. I liked the firm-ish texture on the pasta, too.


The Killing Moon [$16.00] | charanda blanco & añejo, blood orange oleo, macadamia orgeat
Charanda is a rarely-encountered cocktail ingredient around these parts, so it was heartening to see it on the menu tonight. The key was really that orgeat, which showed off a lovely macadamia-fueled nuttiness that linked up smoothly with both the citrus and the boozy heft of that sugarcane spirit.


Sizzling Wagyu Skirt Steak [$61.00] | green peppercorn, perilla, tare
Somewhat to my surprise, the skirt steak was indeed audibly sizzling upon arrival. The beef ate as tender as I was hoping for, and I was also quite a fan of its peppercorn-powered seasoning, which was nicely evened out by zesty slivers of onion and all that greenery.


Truffle Macaroni & Chickpea [$38.00] | miso, black pepper, black truffle
In our final savory dish, the musk of black truffle was apparent right up front, but the sting of black pepper is what took things to the finish, all with this brown butter-esque sweetness making itself known along the way.


Banana Kick [$17.00] | boricha infused rum, makgeolli, banana milk
At this point, it was time to get into some dessert-y cocktails, and this one fit the bill. I found it on the creamy side in terms of mouthfeel, while a rather assertive banana character played nicely with the drink's bitter, boozy, herbaceous facets.


A brief selection of desserts is joined by sundry after-dinner beverage options. Click for a larger version.


Tres Leches Cake [$13.00] | coffee, mascarpone, dates
Our first dessert was a pastel de tres leches quite unlike any I'd seen before. I appreciated its saturated, yet never soggy consistency, while the cake's coffee flavors were augmented by a citrusy edge and the piquancy of those dates on top.


After Hours [$19.00] | boyd & blair vodka, kings county coffee whiskey, cynar, mr. black, cream
Last to tipple was what appeared to be an espresso martini variant, a rather effective one at that, with some lovely roasty and dark fruit elements along with just a touch of punchiness from the Cynar.


Chocolate Pie [$14.00] | kinako, meringue, cherries
The chocolate pie met the mark as well. I especially enjoyed the sweet-tartness from those cherries and the moderating effect of the meringue, while just as key was the dessert's pinch of salt and the hint of nuttiness from the roasted soybean flour.

Once again, Majordomo delivered a strong dining experience, which I suppose I shouldn't be surprised about at this point. I'm glad to have this place as an eating option around Downtown, so I hope it can stick around for years to come. Given how Chang seems to have been winding down his restaurant empire over the past couple years, I was a bit concerned about that, but things appear to be turning around somewhat. As far as I know, there have been no further closures in the Momofuku group since the end of 2023, and in fact, new ventures are actively in work. In New York, the former Ko space has been transformed into a Caribbean spot by the name of Bar Kabawa, which opened at the start of February, while a fancier iteration called Kabawa arrived in March. Also in work is Peach Palace at JFK airport, while the most interesting for us Angelenos is Super Peach, a casual-ish eatery scheduled to open later this year at the Westfield Century City--I'll be curious to check it out.