n/soto (Los Angeles, CA) [2]
n/soto Restaurant
4566 W Washington Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90016
323-879-9455
www.n-soto.com
Wed 03/05/2025, 07:50p-10:25p
Niki Nakayama and Carole Iida's n/soto (えんそと) began life as a pandemic-era project, but transformed into a proper restaurant in April 2022. The California-inspired izakaya quickly became one of the best places to eat around Mid-City, and one of my go-to spots as well. Given that it'd been nearly three years since I last reported on the place, I figured it was time to finally check in with them again. Head chef duties are still handled by Yoji Tajima, while joining him in the leadership team are CdC Gregory Otero and GM Mark Nechols.
Here we see n/soto's wide-ranging menu of izakaya-inspired fare, both classic and nontraditional. Something that's new is the weekday-only $95 tasting menu option, which was introduced in June last year. To drink, you get a selection of beers, sakes, and wines, as well as cocktails from Lead Bartender Reed Windle (Santa Monica Proper Hotel, Playa Provisions, Nook Bistro). Click for larger versions.
In order to maximize the number of dishes tried, we opted for the tasting menu supplemented by numerous à la carte items. As part of the tasting, we were provided a fizzy, refreshing, not-too-sweet grapefruit soda to whet our appetites with.
Scallop Monaka [$24.00] | rice cracker, avocado tosazu, uni
I have a hard time resisting any sort of monaka, so that's what we ended up starting with. The story here was all about creamy avocado and loads of soy-fueled umami up front, which led to the cool brine of scallop and sea urchin, with the airy wafers moderating it all.
Fried Brussel Sprouts [$16.00] | shio koji caesar, salmon skin, gobo
Somewhat surprisingly, this turned out to be one of the best Brussels sprouts dishes I've ever had. There was just such a fantastic amalgam of smoky, briny, creamy, nutty, and vegetal flavors happening all at once, punctuated by pops of pomegranate. Everything simply came together perfectly, both in terms of taste and texture.
1: Sakizuke | yuba, bluefin tuna, strawberry, cucumber
The first course of the tasting sort of wowed me. The back-and-forth between the strawberry and the sting of wasabi was both marvelous and masterful; it was something I didn't think would make sense, but which just delivered in spades. Meanwhile, tuna imparted further oomph to the dish and cucumber served to brighten the interaction, while that mild tofu skin helped soften all the strong elements at play.
S.K.Y. [$18.00] | Japanese vodka, Okinawan rum, guava, blue curaçao, passionfruit ice
Not only was our first cocktail a visual treat, it really delivered in the taste department as well. The key was just how interesting the fruitiness of the drink was, specifically the way the guava played with the rum, making for something unexpectedly multifaceted.
Milk Bread Burrata [$18.00] | bluefin tuna, strawberry, shiso
This next dish was quite similar to the first course of the tasting menu. Again, that interplay between wasabi and strawberry was superb, as were supporting players of cucumber and tuna. The difference was that, instead of yuba, the burrata functioned to temper everything going on, as did that toasty, sweet-ish shokupan.
2: Sashimi | chef's arrangement
Our sashimi course comprised lean, clean cuts of golden threadfin bream (itoyoridai), set against a tangy, prickly-spiced sunchoke sumiso, with various vegetables working to lighten the mood.
Fuji Salmon Sashimi [$25.00] | mandarinquat sumiso, yuzu kosho
Shards of salmon ate as fatty and luscious as you'd expect, and were joined by tart sumiso and plenty of crunchy veggies. I wouldn't have minded more yuzukosho, though.
Mikkōsha Martini [$15.00] | Japanese gin, nori & olive shio koji, dry vermouths
I tend to like my martinis dirty, and this version of the cocktail was certainly pushing the limits. Think super savory and earthy, with the drink's underpinning of gin also making itself known against various bitter, herbaceous elements.
Toro [$17.00] | fatty tuna belly
Katsuo [$12.00] | skipjack tuna
Next came two varieties of nigiri. I started with the skipjack, an utterly soft, supple neta with a subtle savoriness that worked hand-in-hand with the piquancy of ginger. On the other hand, the toro was a much fattier, lusher cut, with this almost "fruity" sweetness; the wasabi was crucial here for balance.
Pork Jowl [$6.00] | shio koji marinated
P-toro was ultra fatty, and thanks to its marinade, boasted far more depth than usual, demonstrating this warm, familiar spicing. However, my complaint was that the meat was chewier than it should've been in spots.
Dew Drop Cabbage [$4.00]
I'm a sucker for cabbage, and tonight's featured a healthy amount of char to go along with the veggie's bittersweetness.
Drops of Darkness [$15.00] | Japanese whisky, spiced black sesame kuromitsu, bitters
This next cocktail showcased loads of brownie, along with a palpable sugariness and a subdued nuttiness from the sesame-spiked syrup. At the same time, you had your classically bitter, boozy notes to make it all work.
Tsukune [$8.00] | chicken meatball
The meatball was another winner, coming out moist and flavorful, its delectable sweetness and smoke countered by the zestiness of negi.
Lamb Chop [$10.00]
Lamb ate smoky and savory, its heady flavors evened out just a smidge by the burn of wasabi.
3: Chawanmushi | king crab, mitsuba, scallion
A jiggly egg custard came loaded with cozy shards of crab as well as this ginger-y spice, along with plenty of herbiness from the one-two punch of scallion and mitsuba.
Imai Punch [$16.00] | tequila blanco, mandarinquat, aloe, Cellador pineapple tepache
Our lone long cocktail was lovely. I was a fan of how the vegetal, almost astringent nuances from the aloe married with the tepache, and overall, the drink just had this vibrancy to it.
Tori Donabe [$32.00] | chicken thigh, soft boiled egg, scallion
I generally have a hard time saying no to donabe rice, and tonight was no exception. I loved the zing of all the green onion and how that interacted with the chicken and just-sticky-enough rice, all while pickles and wasabi imparted a punchiness to the dish. This was something that I'd just want to eat a big bowl of, though I will say that the bird was a bit dry at times.
4: Katsu | chicken katsu, Japanese milk bread, pickles
I certainly enjoyed the torikatsu as well. The bird came out juicy and teeming with rich, savory, dark-toned flavors. The sandwich was brightened up by the cucumber, while the toasty bread also helped keep it all in check.
Agedashi Mochi [$13.00] | shrimp, shiso, wood ear mushroom
Here, chunks of fried mochi had that satisfying chew I was looking for, while their generally mild flavors juxtaposed well with the unabashedly briny flavors of shiso-wrapped shrimp. I would've liked to have gotten more from the kikurage, though.
Sea of Trees [$23.00] | Mizunara cask Japanese whisky, pine liqueur, braulio, mastic tears
This cocktail managed to be the most beguiling of the bunch. I was smitten by its plethora of herbal, piney, bittersweet nuances, backed by this caramel-y sweetness, which somehow all came together and made me think of beer.
Soft Shell Shrimp Tempura [$16.00] | daikon, ichimi ponzu
Shrimp were tasty enough, though they seemed a tad over-fried, as I would've liked a daintier exterior and some suppler, "snappier" insides. I was quite a proponent of that pepper-boosted ponzu, though.
5: Yakimono | grilled quail, char siu glaze, porcini ponzu
Quail arrived tender, juicy, and well-charred, with the bird taking well to its not-too-sweet chāshāo glazing. The various accompaniments worked for contrast, though I wasn't as keen on those mushrooms.
Miso Baked Bone Marrow [$21.00] | umeboshi onigiri
A serving of buttery bone marrow was enhanced by the dark, sweet, sticky, savory flavors of miso, with pickles and a toasty rice ball offering up further counterpoints.
Onsen Toddy [$16.00] | bourbon, yuzu-kumquat honey, ginger, persimmon bitters, hojicha, sake
Our final cocktail was a hot toddy variation that was better than most thanks to how good of a job it did incorporating the persimmon.
6: Dessert | sunchoke miso panna cotta, mochi, candied chestnuts
The dessert that came as part of the tasting turned out to be quite lovely. I was a fan of its enticingly sweet, earthy nature and how that interacted with the nutty, almost cacao-esque components. I even got this lingering finish that reminded me of coconut.
Pictured above is n/soto's dessert menu as well as the restaurant's selection of after-dinner beverages and digestifs. Click for larger versions.
Black Sesame Brownie [$10.00] | chocolate ganache, vanilla bean ice cream
I typically enjoy both brownies and sesame, so the combination of the two definitely worked for me, especially when served à la mode. My only quibble was that the ice cream could've been a tad smoother in consistency.
I'm happy to report that n/soto is holding up quite well, and remains one of my top choices when it comes to izakaya-style food in LA. The cooking here has a certain thoughtfulness that's hard to pin down, and I appreciate how the kitchen isn't afraid to step outside the box, often times with wonderful results. I consider n/soto an essential part of our City's Japanese cuisine landscape, and I'm sure I'll be back.
4566 W Washington Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90016
323-879-9455
www.n-soto.com
Wed 03/05/2025, 07:50p-10:25p
Niki Nakayama and Carole Iida's n/soto (えんそと) began life as a pandemic-era project, but transformed into a proper restaurant in April 2022. The California-inspired izakaya quickly became one of the best places to eat around Mid-City, and one of my go-to spots as well. Given that it'd been nearly three years since I last reported on the place, I figured it was time to finally check in with them again. Head chef duties are still handled by Yoji Tajima, while joining him in the leadership team are CdC Gregory Otero and GM Mark Nechols.
Here we see n/soto's wide-ranging menu of izakaya-inspired fare, both classic and nontraditional. Something that's new is the weekday-only $95 tasting menu option, which was introduced in June last year. To drink, you get a selection of beers, sakes, and wines, as well as cocktails from Lead Bartender Reed Windle (Santa Monica Proper Hotel, Playa Provisions, Nook Bistro). Click for larger versions.
In order to maximize the number of dishes tried, we opted for the tasting menu supplemented by numerous à la carte items. As part of the tasting, we were provided a fizzy, refreshing, not-too-sweet grapefruit soda to whet our appetites with.
Scallop Monaka [$24.00] | rice cracker, avocado tosazu, uni
I have a hard time resisting any sort of monaka, so that's what we ended up starting with. The story here was all about creamy avocado and loads of soy-fueled umami up front, which led to the cool brine of scallop and sea urchin, with the airy wafers moderating it all.
Fried Brussel Sprouts [$16.00] | shio koji caesar, salmon skin, gobo
Somewhat surprisingly, this turned out to be one of the best Brussels sprouts dishes I've ever had. There was just such a fantastic amalgam of smoky, briny, creamy, nutty, and vegetal flavors happening all at once, punctuated by pops of pomegranate. Everything simply came together perfectly, both in terms of taste and texture.
1: Sakizuke | yuba, bluefin tuna, strawberry, cucumber
The first course of the tasting sort of wowed me. The back-and-forth between the strawberry and the sting of wasabi was both marvelous and masterful; it was something I didn't think would make sense, but which just delivered in spades. Meanwhile, tuna imparted further oomph to the dish and cucumber served to brighten the interaction, while that mild tofu skin helped soften all the strong elements at play.
S.K.Y. [$18.00] | Japanese vodka, Okinawan rum, guava, blue curaçao, passionfruit ice
Not only was our first cocktail a visual treat, it really delivered in the taste department as well. The key was just how interesting the fruitiness of the drink was, specifically the way the guava played with the rum, making for something unexpectedly multifaceted.
Milk Bread Burrata [$18.00] | bluefin tuna, strawberry, shiso
This next dish was quite similar to the first course of the tasting menu. Again, that interplay between wasabi and strawberry was superb, as were supporting players of cucumber and tuna. The difference was that, instead of yuba, the burrata functioned to temper everything going on, as did that toasty, sweet-ish shokupan.
2: Sashimi | chef's arrangement
Our sashimi course comprised lean, clean cuts of golden threadfin bream (itoyoridai), set against a tangy, prickly-spiced sunchoke sumiso, with various vegetables working to lighten the mood.
Fuji Salmon Sashimi [$25.00] | mandarinquat sumiso, yuzu kosho
Shards of salmon ate as fatty and luscious as you'd expect, and were joined by tart sumiso and plenty of crunchy veggies. I wouldn't have minded more yuzukosho, though.
Mikkōsha Martini [$15.00] | Japanese gin, nori & olive shio koji, dry vermouths
I tend to like my martinis dirty, and this version of the cocktail was certainly pushing the limits. Think super savory and earthy, with the drink's underpinning of gin also making itself known against various bitter, herbaceous elements.
Toro [$17.00] | fatty tuna belly
Katsuo [$12.00] | skipjack tuna
Next came two varieties of nigiri. I started with the skipjack, an utterly soft, supple neta with a subtle savoriness that worked hand-in-hand with the piquancy of ginger. On the other hand, the toro was a much fattier, lusher cut, with this almost "fruity" sweetness; the wasabi was crucial here for balance.
Pork Jowl [$6.00] | shio koji marinated
P-toro was ultra fatty, and thanks to its marinade, boasted far more depth than usual, demonstrating this warm, familiar spicing. However, my complaint was that the meat was chewier than it should've been in spots.
Dew Drop Cabbage [$4.00]
I'm a sucker for cabbage, and tonight's featured a healthy amount of char to go along with the veggie's bittersweetness.
Drops of Darkness [$15.00] | Japanese whisky, spiced black sesame kuromitsu, bitters
This next cocktail showcased loads of brownie, along with a palpable sugariness and a subdued nuttiness from the sesame-spiked syrup. At the same time, you had your classically bitter, boozy notes to make it all work.
Tsukune [$8.00] | chicken meatball
The meatball was another winner, coming out moist and flavorful, its delectable sweetness and smoke countered by the zestiness of negi.
Lamb Chop [$10.00]
Lamb ate smoky and savory, its heady flavors evened out just a smidge by the burn of wasabi.
3: Chawanmushi | king crab, mitsuba, scallion
A jiggly egg custard came loaded with cozy shards of crab as well as this ginger-y spice, along with plenty of herbiness from the one-two punch of scallion and mitsuba.
Imai Punch [$16.00] | tequila blanco, mandarinquat, aloe, Cellador pineapple tepache
Our lone long cocktail was lovely. I was a fan of how the vegetal, almost astringent nuances from the aloe married with the tepache, and overall, the drink just had this vibrancy to it.
Tori Donabe [$32.00] | chicken thigh, soft boiled egg, scallion
I generally have a hard time saying no to donabe rice, and tonight was no exception. I loved the zing of all the green onion and how that interacted with the chicken and just-sticky-enough rice, all while pickles and wasabi imparted a punchiness to the dish. This was something that I'd just want to eat a big bowl of, though I will say that the bird was a bit dry at times.
4: Katsu | chicken katsu, Japanese milk bread, pickles
I certainly enjoyed the torikatsu as well. The bird came out juicy and teeming with rich, savory, dark-toned flavors. The sandwich was brightened up by the cucumber, while the toasty bread also helped keep it all in check.
Agedashi Mochi [$13.00] | shrimp, shiso, wood ear mushroom
Here, chunks of fried mochi had that satisfying chew I was looking for, while their generally mild flavors juxtaposed well with the unabashedly briny flavors of shiso-wrapped shrimp. I would've liked to have gotten more from the kikurage, though.
Sea of Trees [$23.00] | Mizunara cask Japanese whisky, pine liqueur, braulio, mastic tears
This cocktail managed to be the most beguiling of the bunch. I was smitten by its plethora of herbal, piney, bittersweet nuances, backed by this caramel-y sweetness, which somehow all came together and made me think of beer.
Soft Shell Shrimp Tempura [$16.00] | daikon, ichimi ponzu
Shrimp were tasty enough, though they seemed a tad over-fried, as I would've liked a daintier exterior and some suppler, "snappier" insides. I was quite a proponent of that pepper-boosted ponzu, though.
5: Yakimono | grilled quail, char siu glaze, porcini ponzu
Quail arrived tender, juicy, and well-charred, with the bird taking well to its not-too-sweet chāshāo glazing. The various accompaniments worked for contrast, though I wasn't as keen on those mushrooms.
Miso Baked Bone Marrow [$21.00] | umeboshi onigiri
A serving of buttery bone marrow was enhanced by the dark, sweet, sticky, savory flavors of miso, with pickles and a toasty rice ball offering up further counterpoints.
Onsen Toddy [$16.00] | bourbon, yuzu-kumquat honey, ginger, persimmon bitters, hojicha, sake
Our final cocktail was a hot toddy variation that was better than most thanks to how good of a job it did incorporating the persimmon.
6: Dessert | sunchoke miso panna cotta, mochi, candied chestnuts
The dessert that came as part of the tasting turned out to be quite lovely. I was a fan of its enticingly sweet, earthy nature and how that interacted with the nutty, almost cacao-esque components. I even got this lingering finish that reminded me of coconut.
Pictured above is n/soto's dessert menu as well as the restaurant's selection of after-dinner beverages and digestifs. Click for larger versions.
Black Sesame Brownie [$10.00] | chocolate ganache, vanilla bean ice cream
I typically enjoy both brownies and sesame, so the combination of the two definitely worked for me, especially when served à la mode. My only quibble was that the ice cream could've been a tad smoother in consistency.
I'm happy to report that n/soto is holding up quite well, and remains one of my top choices when it comes to izakaya-style food in LA. The cooking here has a certain thoughtfulness that's hard to pin down, and I appreciate how the kitchen isn't afraid to step outside the box, often times with wonderful results. I consider n/soto an essential part of our City's Japanese cuisine landscape, and I'm sure I'll be back.
posted by kevinEats at
7:50 PM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]
<< Home