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Monday, February 17, 2025

Woon (Pasadena, CA)

Woon Kitchen
1392 E Washington Blvd, Pasadena, CA 91104
www.woonkitchen.com
Mon 02/17/2025, 08:00p-09:50p




Woon Exterior

You might recall that, back in 2020, I ordered takeout from HiFi's Woon (碗) and was largely pleased with the food. The spot is the brainchild of Keegan Fong, and features cooking inspired by the "homestyle" Chinese recipes of his mother, Julie Fong. After the pandemic, the restaurant continued to grow its audience, and by the end of 2022, plans for a second outpost were already underway. This Pasadena location ended up debuting on December 30th last year, and since I was recently looking for a place to eat in the area, I decided to check it out.

Woon Interior - Entrance
Woon resides in the Nelson Building, on the edge of Pasadena's Bungalow Heaven neighborhood, not far from Altadena. The space used to be home to Culture Club 101, and was Archives Bookshop before that. Pictured above is the view from the entrance, showing the ordering area.

Woon Interior - Dining Room
And here we see the dining room, as viewed from the rear of the restaurant.

Woon Menu Woon Beverage List Woon Wine List: Sparkling, White, Orange, Rose Woon Wine List: Rose, Red, Cider
Food-wise, Woon's menu hasn't really changed much, and still features an array of Mama Fong's Cantonese- and Shanghainese-leaning dishes. In terms of beverages, there's actually a fairly wide selection, with numerous non-alcoholic options, a decent selection of beers, and a natural-focused wine list. Meanwhile, corkage was $20. Click for larger versions.

Scallion Pancakes – 葱油饼
Scallion Pancakes – 葱油饼 [$9.00] | Crispy, chewy and savory scallion filled pan-seared pancakes. Served with a side of Worcestershire sauce or red vinegar
We got started with the cōngyóubǐng, a pretty classic preparation featuring a generally chewy consistency along with some nice seared bits. I quite enjoyed the pungency imparted by the Worcester sauce on the side, though I would've liked a more multilayered texture on the pancake, as well as more actual green onion.

1986 Huguet Pinon Vouvray Demi-Sec
To drink, I BYO'd a bottle of the 1986 Huguet Pinon Vouvray Demi-Sec. The Chenin blanc smelled super juicy, with loads of tart, tropical, pineapple-esque notes laced with touches of mineral and tertiary mustiness. Taste-wise, the wine was surprisingly fresh and vibrant and just acidic enough, its considerable stone fruit sweetness joined by hints of citrus, honey, spice, and what seemed like a bit of a botrytized character. This was quite a lovely libation, and roughly on par with the '83 I drank at Kinjiro back in January last year.

Chilled Cucumber & Tofu – 涼拌豆干黃瓜
Chilled Cucumber & Tofu – 涼拌豆干黃瓜 [$7.00] | Diced cucumber, baked tofu, cilantro, tossed with soy vinegar dressing, house chili crisp, and sesame oil
Our first cold dish effectively played dices of crunchy huángguā against firm, savory, sweetly-spiced cubes of dòugān, with everything supported by a creeping heat.

Fried Rice – 臘腸炒飯
Fried Rice – 臘腸炒飯 [$15.00] | Wok charred white and black rice, Chinese sausage, Chinese broccoli stems, eggs, stir fried
Demispheres of fried rice were noticeably darker toned than most, and I appreciated how the dish was imbued with a palpable warmth, one that quickly led to the familiar sweetness of lap cheong. At the same time, the greens and egg helped offset all the stronger flavors going on.

Chinese Pickled Cabbage – 酸菜
Chinese Pickled Cabbage – 酸菜 [$8.00] | Lacto-fermented Napa Cabbage, carrots, Fresno chilis, turmeric, chili oil, sesame oil, and sesame seeds
Suāncài arrived pleasingly crunchy, its invigorating, palate-perking tang joined by a bit of a lacto-fueled tingle.

Gai Lan – 芥蘭
Gai Lan – 芥蘭 [$10.00] | Stir fried Chinese broccoli, topped with fried garlic and Woon Sea Moss Seasoning
The jièlán was one of the better versions I've had, with a spot-on texture and a wonderful bitterness to juxtapose with all the dish's richer, more savory elements.

Fried Tofu Fishcakes – 魚肉釀豆腐泡
Fried Tofu Fishcakes – 魚肉釀豆腐泡 [$9.00] | Fried tofu cakes, stuffed with fish paste, cilantro, green onions. Served w/ Worcestershire sauce
Up next was another table favorite. We were all smitten by how well the fish's sweet salinity meshed with the comparatively milder taste of the tofu, and liked the back-and-forth between the cakes' savory fried exteriors and lighter, springier insides. The vinegary sauce on the side did perk things up nicely, but wasn't strictly needed.

Wood Ear Mushroom & Bean Curd Stick – 涼拌黑木耳腐竹
Wood Ear Mushroom & Bean Curd Stick – 涼拌黑木耳腐竹 [$7.00] | Wood ear mushrooms, bean curd stick, stir fried, tossed with soy vinegar dressing and sesame oil, finished with scallions
I was quite fond of the contrast between those slick, gelatinous cuts of hēi mù'ěr and the firm, multilayered consistency of fǔzhú. At the same time, a soy-powered savoriness really enveloped the salad, and I liked the zestiness imparted by the green onions, too.

2018 Palmaz Cabernet Sauvignon
My second BYOB selection was the 2018 Palmaz Cabernet Sauvignon, which I'd picked up on my visit to the winery last year. On the nose, the Napa Valley Cab displayed dark berries underpinned by an earthy, savory element. Palate-wise, this was surprisingly subdued in terms of tannins, with a healthy dosing of cool, purple fruits backed by notes of herb, soil, and black pepper. We were all pretty happy with the wine, though I will note that we probably drank it a bit cooler than we should have.

Pork Belly Over Rice – 扣肉飯
Pork Belly Over Rice – 扣肉飯 [$16.00] | Braised pork belly, mustard greens, house-pickled carrots & cucumbers, served over white rice, finished with fried garlic
The kòuròufàn featured fatty cuts of fork-tender, sweetly-spiced pork evened out by a bevy of tart, pickley bits, with the rice serving to moderate all the assertive tastes going on.

Spicy 'Mouthwatering' Tofu – 麻婆豆腐
Spicy "Mouthwatering" Tofu – 麻婆豆腐 [$8.00] | A vegan take on a traditional Sichuan dish called "Mouthwatering Chicken". Tofu topped with chili crisp, dark vinegar, soy, ginger scallions and garlic
This mash-up of mápó dòufu and kǒushuǐ jī demonstrated a lovely dosing of sweet, floral spices, amped up by just a smidge of málà.

Beef Noodles – 牛肉粗炒麵
Beef Noodles – 牛肉粗炒麵 [$16.00] | Wok charred Woon homestyle chewy noodles, marinated flank steak, bok choy, shiitake mushrooms, stir fried
Last up was the chǎomiàn, which showed off a nice chew on those thick noodles. The beef itself ate as tender as I was hoping for, and the dish's abundance of dark-toned, savory, wok hei-enhanced flavors were countered just enough by the veggies.

Ice Cream Scoop (Sticky Rice + Mango)
Ice Cream Scoop (Sticky Rice + Mango) [$7.00]
Dessert time. Ice creams at Woon are provided by Wanderlust Creamery, and two varieties were on offer tonight. The mango sticky rice flavor really did capture the essence of the classic Thai treat, and in fact, it was surprising just how on point it was.

Ice Cream Bao (Ube Crunch)
Ice Cream Bao (Ube Crunch) [$9.00] | Wanderlust Ice Cream in a Deep Fried Bao Bun
Meanwhile, the ube had that familiar, warm, nutty sweetness I was hoping for, but the star of the show here was actually that wonderfully crisp fried bun, which served as a perfect complement to the ice cream.

Woon Takeout Bag
Our leftovers were taken away in a rather fetching to-go bag.

All in all, I was once again pretty happy with the food here, and in fact, my dining companions (both originally from China) even remarked that the cooking was better than what they were expecting given Woon's "hip" branding. The place is a welcomed addition to an area that's a bit underserved when it comes to Chinese cuisine, and actually, I wouldn't mind it if a few more locations popped up around town.